Seraphine
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I’ll watch. It’ll be interesting to compare your results to mine. I use masterblend, it’s nearly Identical to jacks just different brands
U in soil homie? Or soillessThanks so much for this thread. A couple weeks ago we made the switch to jacks 321. We switched all rooms mid stream. Plants never looked better. Have tried cyco, h+g, canna and others. Still have gallons of all those. Flowers swelling up in flower rooms, stocks and leaves thickening in veg. Feels like we got it. First time ever I don't feel like I need to be searching for a better product.
Coco perlite blend.U in soil homie? Or soilless
fwiw that 1.6EC includes my 0.4EC tap water. The rest is Jack's @ 3.7g/gal and Cal-Nit @ 2.5g/gal
Not at all. Some of the salts are already bound to H2O, e.g. Epsom Salt is Magnesium Sulfate bound to seven H20 molecules - MgSO4·7H2O.How concerned should I be about salts absorbing moisture and throwing values off?
I’ve been measuring everything by grams but I’m thinking EC would be more accurate way of doing things.
What should the ppm/EC of each salt be?
I could bake my salts to make sure they’re dry then weigh and mix a batch and find out.
So with the full strength nutes being around 728ppm, does anyone raise the gram per gallon of both part a and part b to achieve a higher ppm? Or is the 3.6 2.5 a good spot to stop at?
Thanks for the info. We just tried the perlite in the bottom to stop fungus gnats from crawling in the holes in the pot, and I thought it might help some with drainage. I'm not using c02, but was until recently. That being said, I hear you about the ec, but the plants seem underfed when I go much below 1.5. The hand watering vs 2 or more feedings per day good play a role. Less dry cycles. I guess the thing that's bugging me is why am I having to, and why others aren't having to run cal at higher levels than recommended. I just feel like I'm missing something. I know it throws off the ratio, but every time I stray, I end up going back. I know there are endless variables, and I am generally happy with the results. Just thought maybe someone could help me understand what I could do to improve. Thanks againSo just my thoughts on some of this.
1. Cool rootzones can cause purpling but if it just on the petiole I would assume its cause by exposure to high light and is simply anthocyanan. Are the petiole lower on the plant that get less light also purple?
2. IMO adding perlite to the bottom is like reducing the pot size. Why not just use smaller pots if not mixing it in.
3. Nutrient ratios are important. Im sure you can reverse engineer the salts to figure them out. Sorry if I'm honest im to lazy today but will do tomorrow if you need help.
You want your calcium somewhere between half of K and equal to nitrogen. Ideally in full feed aboit 120ppm of nitrogen or there abouts.
Ca to Mg in a ratio atleast 3 to 1 but I prefer 2 to 1.
Ratios are the absolute most important factor when dealing with nutrients.
4. P is not taken up in large amounts and is kinda of accumulated if my mind serves me right. So a bump in P a week or 2 before flower may help if you truly think you are see a P deficiency start which is usually around 3rd week of flower if it happens.
I feel like you ppm/ec is to high if your not running co2. I would say 1.2-1.6 would be a much better place. Environment also plays a huge role even if you have enough calcium etc. if the plants transpiration slows you can see deficiencies develop from it.
Just my thoughts and hope ya get it sorted.
Transpiration rates play a big role in calcium uptake. Have you tried warmer temps and slightly lower humidity?Thanks for the info. We just tried the perlite in the bottom to stop fungus gnats from crawling in the holes in the pot, and I thought it might help some with drainage. I'm not using c02, but was until recently. That being said, I hear you about the ec, but the plants seem underfed when I go much below 1.5. The hand watering vs 2 or more feedings per day good play a role. Less dry cycles. I guess the thing that's bugging me is why am I having to, and why others aren't having to run cal at higher levels than recommended. I just feel like I'm missing something. I know it throws off the ratio, but every time I stray, I end up going back. I know there are endless variables, and I am generally happy with the results. Just thought maybe someone could help me understand what I could do to improve. Thanks again
Thanks for replying. I think that's where I'm a little confused. To my understanding, the way I'm currently mixing for most of the run is how I should mix with new Coco to buffer it. It's just that after the first few weeks of veg I've tried lowering cal, and things seem to go south. How long do you feel like it takes before cal and probably mag can stop being boosted in Coco (when using new Coco)? As for mixing from scratch, I'm interested for the reasons you stated. The other thing I've been contemplating is moving away from Coco because I feel like my issues are related to the cocos unique ability to hang onto calcium/magnesium. I do feel like I can't quite get things perfect with Jack's. Love the simplicity tho. I honestly haven't spent much time calculating The ratios of everything in the 5 12 26, but have been making adjustments to the 321 recipe and sticking with what's giving best results. Maybe it's time to startI think Aqua is spot on, I like to run K to Ca to Mg in 4 -2 -1 ratio (ex. 200K 100Ca 50Mg ) or close to that, one question I have is are you guys properly buffering the coco until saturation at start, for me that was the most important part because if not some of the nutrients meant for the plants are being held onto by the media throwing everything off, I'm sure your aware of that just mentioning it as you stated you have had early issues from the start in early veg.
Also have you guys ever mixed your nutes from scratch, mixing 250 gallon batches would be worth it, its easy, and you would have far more control, easy to make adjustments and dial the nutes in.
I've been seeing better results lately trying to stay close to vpd, basically keeping humidity as high as I'm comfortable with until late flower. I did better with this vs sealed room with c02 (which made the vpd thing nearly impossible because of the higher temps). That, along with the fact that I was using propane generators, and they were causing issues unless I ventilated multiple times per day. I ultimately came to the conclusion I was better off just ventilating for now. Never a boring dayAlso increasing Mg can increase the plants demand for P.
Transpiration rates play a big role in calcium uptake. Have you tried warmer temps and slightly lower humidity?
So here is my thoughts... with co2 transpiration is slowed down so you need to feed higher amounts of ferts, with VPD is how we regulate transpiration rates. So im kinda thinking the co2 forst and now the higher humidity are whats causing the issues.I've been seeing better results lately trying to stay close to vpd, basically keeping humidity as high as I'm comfortable with until late flower. I did better with this vs sealed room with c02 (which made the vpd thing nearly impossible because of the higher temps). That, along with the fact that I was using propane generators, and they were causing issues unless I ventilated multiple times per day. I ultimately came to the conclusion I was better off just ventilating for now. Never a boring day
That, along with the fact that I was using propane generators, and they were causing issues unless I ventilated multiple times per day.
Thanks for replying. I think that's where I'm a little confused. To my understanding, the way I'm currently mixing for most of the run is how I should mix with new Coco to buffer it. It's just that after the first few weeks of veg I've tried lowering cal, and things seem to go south. How long do you feel like it takes before cal and probably mag can stop being boosted in Coco (when using new Coco)? As for mixing from scratch, I'm interested for the reasons you stated. The other thing I've been contemplating is moving away from Coco because I feel like my issues are related to the cocos unique ability to hang onto calcium/magnesium. I do feel like I can't quite get things perfect with Jack's. Love the simplicity tho. I honestly haven't spent much time calculating The ratios of everything in the 5 12 26, but have been making adjustments to the 321 recipe and sticking with what's giving best results. Maybe it's time to start
I use 1000w gavita de in flower. I do take leaf temp. Thanks for the input.So here is my thoughts... with co2 transpiration is slowed down so you need to feed higher amounts of ferts, with VPD is how we regulate transpiration rates. So im kinda thinking the co2 forst and now the higher humidity are whats causing the issues.
How are you calculating VPD? Taking leaf temps into account correct? If not this could very well be the culprit.
Are you under LED?