Just when things were going smoothly for a change...

[jhartley295]

A few hours after watering, this started. Brown spots, yellow spots, on all plants I just watered/fed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Soil grow, runoff/soil Ph 6.4, temp77°F, 70%RH.
Amnesia Haze auto

I fed them 1/2 strength nutes in Ph'd RO water @ 800ppm/1.6EC with the usual AN bloom nutrients, some Nirvana and Armor Si, CaMag+, Sensizym and Overdrive. I had not added Overdrive before this, everything else was the same as prior feedings. I used 1/2 strength Ca Mag+ to make room for the added solids from Overdrive to stay at 800ppm. These autos are almost 7 weeks flower and were stunted during transplant from Nitrogen excess and had recovered a few weeks ago.

As compared to online charts of cannabis problems, it appears to be Potassium excess or Calcium deficiency?

Should I flush immediately? Wait til pots dry out and flush? Water again with usual mild nutes minus the Overdrive and full strength CaMag+? Flush with straight RO and CaMag only?

This is my second grow, first being several years ago, so all suggestions, criticism and opinions are welcomed and appreciated.

 

[oldskol4evr]

A few hours after watering, this started. Brown spots, yellow spots, on all plants I just watered/fed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Soil grow, runoff/soil Ph 6.4, temp77°F, 70%RH.
Amnesia Haze auto

I fed them 1/2 strength nutes in Ph'd RO water @ 800ppm/1.6EC with the usual AN bloom nutrients, some Nirvana and Armor Si, CaMag+, Sensizym and Overdrive. I had not added Overdrive before this, everything else was the same as prior feedings. I used 1/2 strength Ca Mag+ to make room for the added solids from Overdrive to stay at 800ppm. These autos are almost 7 weeks flower and were stunted during transplant from Nitrogen excess and had recovered a few weeks ago.

As compared to online charts of cannabis problems, it appears to be Potassium excess or Calcium deficiency?

Should I flush immediately? Wait til pots dry out and flush? Water again with usual mild nutes minus the Overdrive and full strength CaMag+? Flush with straight RO and CaMag only?

This is my second grow, first being several years ago, so all suggestions, criticism and opinions are welcomed and appreciated.

nah them didnt just show up over night,take 3 days for effect of what you feed,your in soil right?why are you using all that crap?7 weeks in flower running 800 is way low way way low,you should be running around 1200 ppm just saying,to late for all that plants are almost done at 7 weeks,unless it sativa auto,next time use the cannibis hannah feed chart,for your correct ppm and ec value,for now i would suggest just using water for next feed,and wait to see new growth,flushing isnt gonna help in soil just makes mud,but to make you feel better and you mjust did feed,run a gallon of water threw pot,then use the old schedule of feed minus all the super duper frosted flake garuntee special out,use the feed and cal mag as you were gonna feed like you always have after you run the gallon out

 

[jhartley295]

I'll take your suggestions under consideration for sure, but this is only affecting plants just watered and they did not look like that the day before or the day I previously watered. But perhaps the 2 previous feedings with added potassium caused excess?

I'm followng ppm level recommendations (as well as ph and EC) from ILGM, which is where I purchased these Amnesia Haze autos.

So what nutes do you recommend? Like I stated, everything is the same as 3 previous weeks except less CaMag+ and adding Overdrive (1-5-4) this last time.

As also stated, these had recovered from N excess, so less nutes was necessary, right? (even though ILGM feeding schedule recommends 800ppm at this stage)

 

[Dirtbag]

nah them didnt just show up over night,take 3 days for effect of what you feed,your in soil right?why are you using all that crap?7 weeks in flower running 800 is way low way way low,you should be running around 1200 ppm just saying,to late for all that plants are almost done at 7 weeks,unless it sativa auto,next time use the cannibis hannah feed chart,for your correct ppm and ec value,for now i would suggest just using water for next feed,and wait to see new growth,flushing isnt gonna help in soil just makes mud,but to make you feel better and you mjust did feed,run a gallon of water threw pot,then use the old schedule of feed minus all the super duper frosted flake garuntee special out,use the feed and cal mag as you were gonna feed like you always have after you run the gallon out

Which ppm scale are you referring to, 500 or 700? 800 on the 500 scale is 1.6ec, that's a full strength feed in my world. 1200ppm would be 2.4ec, that's crazy high. If you're talkin 700 scale though 1200ppm is like 1.7ec.
Plus, he is growing autos which usually require WAY less nutrients.


OP, what soil are you using?

 

[jhartley295]

Which ppm scale are you referring to, 500 or 700? 800 on the 500 scale is 1.6ec, that's a full strength feed in my world. 1200ppm would be 2.4ec, that's crazy high. If you're talkin 700 scale though 1200ppm is like 1.7ec.
Plus, he is growing autos which usually require WAY less nutrients.


OP, what soil are you using?

That's what I'm thinking on ppm. My meter is 500ppm = 1.0EC (800=1.6). I'm using Ocean Forest/Happy Frog, which should be depleted after 8 weeks since transplant and a couple flushes for N toxicity, right?

These girls have suffered at the hands of inexperience, for sure.

 

[oldskol4evr]

I'll take your suggestions under consideration for sure, but this is only affecting plants just watered and they did not look like that the day before or the day I previously watered. But perhaps the 2 previous feedings with added potassium caused excess?

I'm followng ppm level recommendations (as well as ph and EC) from ILGM, which is where I purchased these Amnesia Haze autos.

So what nutes do you recommend? Like I stated, everything is the same as 3 previous weeks except less CaMag+ and adding Overdrive (1-5-4) this last time.

As also stated, these had recovered from N excess, so less nutes was necessary, right? (even though ILGM feeding schedule recommends 800ppm at this stage)

all you friend just giving my opinion,all i feed is teas and KNF product i make myself

 

[oldskol4evr]

Which ppm scale are you referring to, 500 or 700? 800 on the 500 scale is 1.6ec, that's a full strength feed in my world. 1200ppm would be 2.4ec, that's crazy high. If you're talkin 700 scale though 1200ppm is like 1.7ec.
Plus, he is growing autos which usually require WAY less nutrients.


OP, what soil are you using?

like i told him just my opinion,i have wrote the scale down in full detail probally 8 times this month aint doing it again,you all roll with what you feel best,i stick to my guns and chart hahahh

 

[az2000]

adding Overdrive (1-5-4) this last time.

That's probably it. With all the bottles you're using, it's not easy to know the resulting NPK ratio you're creating. I have a spreadsheet I can give you which would let you figure that out. (I use it all the time to understand what I'm feeding, or how to mix things to get a sane ratio/strength.). But, adding a ratio 1-5-4 to base nutrients that are probably already leaning toward "bloom ratio" (1-2-2), it was probably an imbalanced NPK (and strong too).

You asked what to feed. I suggest next time you feed a 1-1-1 ratio from seedling through harvest. (Example: Jack's Classic 20-20-20. Grow-More Sea Grow 16-16-16. Even MiracleGro Tomato 18-18-21. Not quite a 1-1-1 ratio. But, cannabis likes a little extra K through the grow.).

If you kept it simple that way, then you'd have something by which to judge the more proprietary, franchised multi-bottle programs. And, at that point, you can create your own NPK ratios by adding some high-N fish emulion in veg. Or, some high-p guano in flower. (The spreadsheet makes it relatively easy & safe to do that.).

 

[oldskol4evr]

That's what I'm thinking on ppm. My meter is 500ppm = 1.0EC (800=1.6). I'm using Ocean Forest/Happy Frog, which should be depleted after 8 weeks since transplant and a couple flushes for N toxicity, right?

These girls have suffered at the hands of inexperience, for sure.

ok here you go,no matter what scale you use EC is gonna be the same and a tds meter will give you that

 

[jhartley295]

ok here you go,no matter what scale you use EC is gonna be the same and a tds meter will give you that

Not sure what that means as far as the ppm I'm feeding

That's probably it. With all the bottles you're using, it's not easy to know the resulting NPK ratio you're creating. I have a spreadsheet I can give you which would let you figure that out. (I use it all the time to understand what I'm feeding, or how to mix things to get a sane ratio/strength.). But, adding a ratio 1-5-4 to base nutrients that are probably already leaning toward "bloom ratio" (1-2-2), it was probably an imbalanced NPK (and strong too).

You asked what to feed. I suggest next time you feed a 1-1-1 ratio from seedling through harvest. (Example: Jack's Classic 20-20-20. Grow-More Sea Grow 16-16-16. Even MiracleGro Tomato 18-18-21. Not quite a 1-1-1 ratio. But, cannabis likes a little extra K through the grow.).

If you kept it simple that way, then you'd have something by which to judge the more proprietary, franchised multi-bottle programs. And, at that point, you can create your own NPK ratios by adding some high-N fish emulion in veg. Or, some high-p guano in flower. (The spreadsheet makes it relatively easy & safe to do that.).

That's why I thought Nirvana would benefit. (guano for added potassium)

So, usng 20-20-20 at what strength? 800ppm? With RO water I have to add CaMag+. so the rest of ppm is the fert?

 

[jhartley295]

Didn't really get an educated opinion about what the photos show. Potassium or Ca or what. Only how to do it someone else's way that's completely different. I appreciate it, but, "change to this tea" or "next time do this" doesn't help these plants get to harvest. No disrespect intended. I'm still not sure how to proceed...today.

I guess the consensus is, the manufacturer's recommended schedule for soil is crap.

 

[jhartley295]

like i told him just my opinion,i have wrote the scale down in full detail probally 8 times this month aint doing it again,you all roll with what you feel best,i stick to my guns and chart hahahh

Thanks

 

[jhartley295]

like i told him just my opinion,i have wrote the scale down in full detail probally 8 times this month aint doing it again,you all roll with what you feel best,i stick to my guns and chart hahahh

So, Keep your chart, if that's the oldskol4evr way. lol hahaha

 

[az2000]

So, usng 20-20-20 at what strength? 800ppm? With RO water I have to add CaMag+. so the rest of ppm is the fert?

You should only have to add 2ml/gal of Cal mag for that. The soil should have plenty of trace minerals (especially if you amend 1 Tablespoon dolomite lime per gallon o soil). You could use a gram of gypsum & epsom salt (each) to replace ppms in RO water. Cheaper and you're not adding nitrogen that way. (Not that adding nitrogen is bad. But, if you want to keep it simple, and a flat 1-1-1 ratio.). I mix about 20% tap water with RO to get around 150ppm water.

I've never used Jacks Classic. 1.8 to 1.9g /gal creates what I consider to be a reasonable 270ppm. (2.2g Sea Grow does the same thing. 2g MiracleGro Tomato does the same thing.).

 

[az2000]

Didn't really get an educated opinion about what the photos show. Potassium or Ca or what. Only how to do it someone else's way that's completely different. I appreciate it, but, "change to this tea" or "next time do this" doesn't help these plants get to harvest. No disrespect intended. I'm still not sure how to proceed...today.

I guess the consensus is, the manufacturer's recommended schedule for soil is crap.

I think that's pretty much true for any product. The rule of thumb is to use half the recommended strength (unless someone can say they've used the product before at a different strength.). That's not always true. But, the odds are that the manufacturer's recommendation is too strong.

For where you are now, I would flush with 1/4 strength nutrients (100% runoff), let the soil dry very well. Figure out the NPK ratios your creating with all those bottles (using the spreadsheet), and try to be around the 1-1.2-2 range. No higher than 1-1.5-2. I would feed half strength.

 

[Aqua Man]

Yeah this does not show up over night. You RH is way to high it should be at minimum 50%. This is preventing proper nutrient uptake (why you are seeing nutrient deficiencies) and transpiration (why it's looking over watered). If you are using VPD you are using it wrong. At this stage of growth ideally would be at about 45%RH for good transpiration and nutrient uptake. It's likely this was an issue throughout the grow.

What lighting are you using? Would help me give you a better estimate of where your RH should be

 

[jhartley295]

You should only have to add 2ml/gal of Cal mag for that. The soil should have plenty of trace minerals (especially if you amend 1 Tablespoon dolomite lime per gallon o soil). You could use a gram of gypsum & epsom salt (each) to replace ppms in RO water. Cheaper and you're not adding nitrogen that way. (Not that adding nitrogen is bad. But, if you want to keep it simple, and a flat 1-1-1 ratio.). I mix about 20% tap water with RO to get around 150ppm water.

I've never used Jacks Classic. 1.8 to 1.9g /gal creates what I consider to be a reasonable 270ppm. (2.2g Sea Grow does the same thing. 2g MiracleGro Tomato does the same thing.).

Is that 270 on top of tap + ro or 270ppm total? Doesn't seem like enough nutes? But, obviously I don't know what I'm doing at this point. Although. I have a closet full of feminized plants doing very well at the moment. The autos are f'd up.

Gold Leaf fem in 4th week of flower under 8 bulb T5, 1/2 bulbs are veg/1/2 bloom, using same bottled nutes.

 

[jhartley295]

Yeah this does not show up over night. You RH is way to high it should be at minimum 50%. This is preventing proper nutrient uptake (why you are seeing nutrient deficiencies) and transpiration (why it's looking over watered). If you are using VPD you are using it wrong. At this stage of growth ideally would be at about 45%RH for good transpiration and nutrient uptake. It's likely this was an issue throughout the grow.

What lighting are you using? Would help me give you a better estimate of where your RH should be

I started under T5s, tried a couple 600w blurples, switched to 240w quantum white full spectrum with high red and ir.

With intake/exhaust on all the time, and high ambient temps and humidity , I can't get it to go below 65rh. My last closet grow had no dehum. and stays around 70%rh and 3 Blueberry Kush autos did great. fwiw

 

[az2000]

Is that 270 on top of tap + ro or 270ppm total?

270 not counting the water. Your plants don't look bad. I think if you flush with a mild nutrient solution, and feed half what you've been feeding (and make sure the NPK ratio is relatively balanced), you should be ok.

 

[jhartley295]

I think that's pretty much true for any product. The rule of thumb is to use half the recommended strength (unless someone can say they've used the product before at a different strength.). That's not always true. But, the odds are that the manufacturer's recommendation is too strong.

For where you are now, I would flush with 1/4 strength nutrients (100% runoff), let the soil dry very well. Figure out the NPK ratios your creating with all those bottles (using the spreadsheet), and try to be around the 1-1.2-2 range. No higher than 1-1.5-2. I would feed half strength.

I've been using these nutes at half strength for weeks with no problems...then this. Guess I'll flush 'em.