Just when things were going smoothly for a change...

[Aqua Man]

I started under T5s, tried a couple 600w blurples, switched to 240w quantum white full spectrum with high red and ir.

With intake/exhaust on all the time, and high ambient temps and humidity , I can't get it to go below 65rh. My last closet grow had no dehum. and stays around 70%rh and 3 Blueberry Kush autos did great. fwiw

With higher humidity you need more food in later stages of growth and risk mold. I would increase air exchange if you can. If the plants can't transpire well your going to have all sorts of issues. I'm guessing you didn't have this issue during the earlier stages because the plants don't drink as much and release as much humidity also they cope better in higher humidity. If the humidity is high in the later stages of growth it reduces the plants ability to respire and pull water and nutrients from the soil.

 

[jhartley295]

270 not counting the water. Your plants don't look bad. I think if you flush with a mild nutrient solution, and feed half what you've been feeding (and make sure the NPK ratio is relatively balanced), you should be ok.

If flowering stage requires less N and more P,K, why would a 1-1-1 work? All the bottled/powdered nutes I've seen change for bloom. MaxiBloom is 5-14-14. Sensi Bloom is 1-4-5 I think. Thanks

 

[jhartley295]

With higher humidity you need more food in later stages of growth and risk mold. I would increase air exchange if you can. If the plants can't transpire well your going to have all sorts of issues. I'm guessing you didn't have this issue during the earlier stages because the plants don't drink as much and release as much humidity also they cope better in higher humidity. If the humidity is high in the later stages of growth it reduces the plants ability to respire and pull water and nutrients from the soil.

I lowered RH at flowering stage from 75 to 65. This weather has been miserably hot and humid in southeast.

 

[az2000]

If flowering stage requires less N and more P,K, why would a 1-1-1 work? All the bottled/powdered nutes I've seen change for bloom. MaxiBloom is 5-14-14. Sensi Bloom is 1-4-5 I think. Thanks

Marketing, perhaps? (Why do the labels tell you to use far more than necessary?). How confident are you that flowering requires less N? There's another thread where people are saying it's been demonstrably concluded that cannabis needs rato 3-1-4 all the way through. That's a ton of N compared to 1-1-1.

All I'm saying is: everyone should try NPK ratio 1-1-1 once. Otherwise, how do you compare the varied NPK ratios that result from boutique multi-bottle "lineups?" How do you know they're doing anything (and, especially anything *positive*) if you haven't done a balanced fertilizer all the way through? To me, choosing a themed "lineup" is just buying into a franchise that's more about selling the franchise, not making you aware of the NPK ratios your actually feeding.

You should just try it once. And then start varying the NPK ratios yourself. Read your plant. Try different things. With the spreadsheet, you can unravel any franchised "schedule" and see the NPK ratio being produced (from multiple bottles mixed together). That gives you something to target using any products.

 

[Aqua Man]

If flowering stage requires less N and more P,K, why would a 1-1-1 work? All the bottled/powdered nutes I've seen change for bloom. MaxiBloom is 5-14-14. Sensi Bloom is 1-4-5 I think. Thanks

Exactly as @az2000 stated marketing. They need N in flower just the last couple weeks they don't use as much. To many nutes cut the nitrogen to fast and to much.

 

[jhartley295]

Yeah this does not show up over night.

I know it doesn't, but it's only on plants watered yesterday. All were watered with same nutes last time. Only difference is adding Overdrive at 1/2 strength and 1/2 the calmag+ while keeping ppm the same. And it showed up hours after wstering. No signs before then. Weird.

 

[jhartley295]

Exactly as @az2000 stated marketing. They need N in flower just the last couple weeks they don't use as much. To many nutes cut the nitrogen to fast and to much.

I see.

 

[jhartley295]

Marketing, perhaps? (Why do the labels tell you to use far more than necessary?). How confident are you that flowering requires less N? There's another thread where people are saying it's been demonstrably concluded that cannabis needs rato 3-1-4 all the way through. That's a ton of N compared to 1-1-1.

All I'm saying is: everyone should try NPK ratio 1-1-1 once. Otherwise, how do you compare the varied NPK ratios that result from boutique multi-bottle "lineups?" How do you know they're doing anything (and, especially anything *positive*) if you haven't done a balanced fertilizer all the way through? To me, choosing a themed "lineup" is just buying into a franchise that's more about selling the franchise, not making you aware of the NPK ratios your actually feeding.

You should just try it once. And then start varying the NPK ratios yourself. Read your plant. Try different things. With the spreadsheet, you can unravel any franchised "schedule" and see the NPK ratio being produced (from multiple bottles mixed together). That gives you something to target using any products.

Where do I find the spreadsheet?

 

[jhartley295]

I've been using Sensi Bloom 2 part, it adds up to 5-5-10 NPK, so I'll flush with it @ 25% with RO+ tap (185ppm) = 466ppm total, Ph 6.8, total nutrient solution = pot size. Runoff matched input ppm and Ph on first pot. 3 more to flush.

 

[Dirtbag]

What does your runoff ppm look like, have you tested it? 1.6ec is high for an auto, I wouldnt be surprised to see a super high runoff EC which could mean a lockout situation where you are getting multiple deficiencies.

It's not easy to determine exactly what your plant isnt getting specifically when it has so much going on, it's easier to determine why it's not getting everything it needs, which is why you have got the replys you have.

Also, ph 6.8 is a bit high imho. I'd shoot for closer to 6-6.3

 

[az2000]

I know it doesn't, but it's only on plants watered yesterday. All were watered with same nutes last time. Only difference is adding Overdrive at 1/2 strength and 1/2 the calmag+ while keeping ppm the same. And it showed up hours after wstering. No signs before then. Weird.

I've seen deficiencies appear quickly. I had a bottle of dissolved gypsum, with just 4 oz remaining in it. I thought I should create full bottle. I thought "this is good stuff, all natural, plants will love it." I poured it out across 2-3 soil containers. Within *hours* the leaves of those plants had blotches like calcium & phosphorous deficiencies.

Where do I find the spreadsheet?

I thought you'd never ask. I keep it here. (<<link). There is a README.pdf file there. Spend some time with that before jumping into the spreadsheet. There are just three examples in the README. If you orient yourself to those three examples, you'll understand how to add products to the spreadsheet, unravel a franchised "linuep's" schedule, and recreate a NPK ratio/strength using other products. Once you think in those three terms, it's easy.

There is a subdirectory there with products that I've already added. Some of yours might be already there. (If so, you should verify that info matches your labels. I've seen product formulations change.).

If you go back one directory you'll find some feeding schedules that I ran through the spreadsheet and added NPK ratios & strengths to. That's interesting to see (the manufacturers don't publish that info. It's interesting to see how the different "lineups" work, what they produce.). If you do any of this with Advanced Nutrients (if you add any products, unravel any schedules), you can give me that info. I can add it to what's already available. Someone might benefit from that.

To me, looking at nutrients this way was a game changer. Instead of "so much of the blue bottle, with so much red bottle", I could think in terms of what the plant sees (NPK ratio). Whatever bottles I use, I think in terms of ratio and strength. I can "read my plant" that way. The ratio and strength becomes part of what I know (not abstracted orange, blue and pink bottles). It's like a common language. Esperanza for plant nutrients. (Not proprietary the way "lineups" tend to be.).

That's why it would be interesting if you could enter your bottles in the spreadsheet, figure out what you've been feeding (ratio and strength), and what that last one was with the half-strength overdrive. That would be useful info for the next time you grow. You'd know what that ratio does.).

 

[jhartley295]

What does your runoff ppm look like, have you tested it? 1.6ec is high for an auto, I wouldnt be surprised to see a super high runoff EC which could mean a lockout situation where you are getting multiple deficiencies.

It's not easy to determine exactly what your plant isnt getting specifically when it has so much going on, it's easier to determine why it's not getting everything it needs, which is why you have got the replys you have.

Also, ph 6.8 is a bit high imho. I'd shoot for closer to 6-6.3

In the thread about N excess, advice was given to raise Ph. I was at 6.3 and suggested to go to 6.7or 6.8.

I just flushed half the plants with this new problem and runoff matched input solution for Ph and ppm in all but one. which was 1400ppm. It easily flushed down to 900 wyen I ran out of RO water. I'll see what new leaves have to say on the lot of 7 AMH. Blue Mammoth, Med Gom and AK47 were not affected by the same feeding. Weird.

I appreciate all the time spent by those that reply. I realize I'm asking long distance diagnosis, which is unreasonable at best. I'll certainly take heed of how to get.this back on track and what to do different in the next grow in a couple months.

Cheers all! Stay high and happy!

 

[jhartley295]

I've seen deficiencies appear quickly. I had a bottle of dissolved gypsum, with just 4 oz remaining in it. I thought I should create full bottle. I thought "this is good stuff, all natural, plants will love it." I poured it out across 2-3 soil containers. Within *hours* the leaves of those plants had blotches like calcium & phosphorous deficiencies.



I thought you'd never ask. I keep it here. (<<link). There is a README.pdf file there. Spend some time with that before jumping into the spreadsheet. There are just three examples in the README. If you orient yourself to those three examples, you'll understand how to add products to the spreadsheet, unravel a franchised "linuep's" schedule, and recreate a NPK ratio/strength using other products. Once you think in those three terms, it's easy.

There is a subdirectory there with products that I've already added. Some of yours might be already there. (If so, you should verify that info matches your labels. I've seen product formulations change.).

If you go back one directory you'll find some feeding schedules that I ran through the spreadsheet and added NPK ratios & strengths to. That's interesting to see (the manufacturers don't publish that info. It's interesting to see how the different "lineups" work, what they produce.). If you do any of this with Advanced Nutrients (if you add any products, unravel any schedules), you can give me that info. I can add it to what's already available. Someone might benefit from that.

To me, looking at nutrients this way was a game changer. Instead of "so much of the blue bottle, with so much red bottle", I could think in terms of what the plant sees (NPK ratio). Whatever bottles I use, I think in terms of ratio and strength. I can "read my plant" that way. The ratio and strength becomes part of what I know (not abstracted orange, blue and pink bottles). It's like a common language. Esperanza for plant nutrients. (Not proprietary the way "lineups" tend to be.).

That's why it would be interesting if you could enter your bottles in the spreadsheet, figure out what you've been feeding (ratio and strength), and what that last one was with the half-strength overdrive. That would be useful info for the next time you grow. You'd know what that ratio does.).

Very cool and I appreciate you taking the time to.reply and.provide the link and share.

You Rock, az2000!

 

[jhartley295]

I lowered RH at flowering stage from 75 to 65. This weather has been miserably hot and humid in southeast.

Do I need an exhaust fan if ac is cycling on cool function all the time @ 75°F? My 140cfm 8" exhaust fan is bringing 95% humidity in all the time. If I shut it off, I can get to 40%RH or lower.

4'x8'x7' insulated grow shed outdoors lined with Panda black/white film.
240w full spectrum white quantum LEDs w/red/ir.
5000btu window air unit
1 circulation fan across top of canopy
160cfm 8" inline duct fan exhaust
8" intake vent

 

[Dirtbag]

Put the fan on a speed controller and dial it way down. You just need a little fresh air for Co2 if the AC will control the heat.