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Large plants dying

  • Thread starter Thread starter napalisherpa
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Large plants dying

napalisherpa 54 Replies 8,889 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 55
#21
Alfalfa around the plants for mulch. Probably taking it off in the morning to let them breathe more.

We hit each 500 gallon mound with approx. 50 gallons of water every other day (give or take depending on weather)
 
#24
napalisherpa said:
Alfalfa around the plants for mulch. Probably taking it off in the morning to let them breathe more.

We hit each 500 gallon mound with approx. 50 gallons of water every other day (give or take depending on weather)
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I only use about 6 gal a day at most, but dif mediums, etc...so I cant judge that

but that is a lot of water considering hay is mulched also

what is the soil/medium? A local bulk blend?
 
#25
We did not find mold when we dug through the mounds, we did not find an infestation of insects that would kill the plants this quickly and systematically. We have yet to find a gopher hole IN the garden, but we did find this 100 feet down the hill.

When you dug down did you find moist soil? Sounds like the plants down the hill were getting most of the water. If The weather got real hot for a few days large plants will need a lot more than you think. Dump a couple of 5 gallon buckets of water on them and see what happens. I had one pot at the top of the run do this. I just upped the water and all was fine.
 
#29
caregiverken said:
i found this but its doesnt help me..as a matter of fact. it scares me..


except hemp and cannabis..right?
:confused:
I do "no till gardening":nailbiting:
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Unfortunately probably not... This is a problem I've been wondering about for a few years myself. I've had a few plants die this year from fungal disease, both in my light dep and in my outside garden, which has not happened in a long time. I'm thinking we really need to be more on top of it this year with the cover crops. Having multiple pots or beds to rotate through might not be a bad idea either, but that's a lot of extra work and soil to set something like that up....

Things like the Actinovate, tea, and MycoStop can work as preventatives, but once the plant gets infected it can be really hard to deal with. Keeping you water dialed in so it's not too wet or too dry really helps as well. In my experience once the plants wilt bad, they almost always die. I am trying something new on the bed of Mendo Pineapple I'm growing this year that has been having troubles, so we will see how that goes.
 
#30
I lost a few plants this year looking just like that. I'm in extremely dry and hot conditions. I've since been watering heavy with yucca or aloe everyday and haven't had the issues since but have wondered if it was maybe something more.
 
#31
most likely fussarium oxysporum it is everywhere around us and once in the soil it's there for a very long time , once you have it watering only accelerates it as it thrives in damp conditions . it can infect at wound sites like plucking leaf or broken branches , hence why tree growers seal pruning wounds .. it could have been from the alfalfa too , if the straw has alfalfa stem nematodes they would cause an easy entry for fussarium or pythium ..
actinovate may help but i wouldn't try to save any infected plant for likely chance it spreads . have seen it wipe out whole gardens .. you can also use calcium phosphite but it can burn the plant if your a little heavy with it..
 
#32
The outdoor plant i lost was not as big but they wilted and died soon after i put much around the stem and base of the plant, it was hot and dry that time of year and thought the mulch would help retain moisture, well because the mulch was very warm and moist it made a great enviroment for stem rot and it killed my plants, never doing that again, not sure if stem rot got your pants, but it got mine... i hope you can sort it out and save your nice plants.

M8
 
#33
obsoul33t said:
. it could have been from the alfalfa too , if the straw has alfalfa stem nematodes they would cause an easy entry for fussarium or pythium ..
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I bet that's it
Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil.
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#34
caregiverken said:
I bet that's it
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I just visited some really super awesome gardens today, I mean seriously good.

But most guys do use the alfalfa straw to mulch...I always wonder why take the risk with such huge and beautiful gardens.

Years ago the straw mulch was spreading mold and PM until everyone learned about eagle20 and then now the actinovate, so I never used straw. I prefer the shade cloth that I now use, but I used to use burlap, but burlap only lasts one season then you need to compost it. Shade cloth lasts forever!

If the straw is spreading bugs then the word needs to really get out, cause garden shops actually recommend using straw as a mulch to cannabis farmers...
 
#35
that is heartbreaking. seeing big trees like that keel over...scary to think of something with no visible signs taking down plants by stealth.
 
#36
Blaze said:
Unfortunately probably not... This is a problem I've been wondering about for a few years myself. I've had a few plants die this year from fungal disease, both in my light dep and in my outside garden, which has not happened in a long time. I'm thinking we really need to be more on top of it this year with the cover crops. Having multiple pots or beds to rotate through might not be a bad idea either, but that's a lot of extra work and soil to set something like that up....

Things like the Actinovate, tea, and MycoStop can work as preventatives, but once the plant gets infected it can be really hard to deal with. Keeping you water dialed in so it's not too wet or too dry really helps as well. In my experience once the plants wilt bad, they almost always die. I am trying something new on the bed of Mendo Pineapple I'm growing this year that has been having troubles, so we will see how that goes.
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This is my second year doing cover crops and when I tell you by how much I've reduced water usage, your mind will be BLOWN. I'm using a fraction of what's normally required.
m8ty said:
The outdoor plant i lost was not as big but they wilted and died soon after i put much around the stem and base of the plant, it was hot and dry that time of year and thought the mulch would help retain moisture, well because the mulch was very warm and moist it made a great enviroment for stem rot and it killed my plants, never doing that again, not sure if stem rot got your pants, but it got mine... i hope you can sort it out and save your nice plants.

M8
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Keep the mulches a few inches away from the main trunk and roots that feed out of that trunk.
SunGrown said:
I just visited some really super awesome gardens today, I mean seriously good.

But most guys do use the alfalfa straw to mulch...I always wonder why take the risk with such huge and beautiful gardens.

Years ago the straw mulch was spreading mold and PM until everyone learned about eagle20 and then now the actinovate, so I never used straw. I prefer the shade cloth that I now use, but I used to use burlap, but burlap only lasts one season then you need to compost it. Shade cloth lasts forever!

If the straw is spreading bugs then the word needs to really get out, cause garden shops actually recommend using straw as a mulch to cannabis farmers...
Click to expand...
Alfalfa is different from straw. If it's green and has a green/hay smell, if it has flowers, it's alfalfa and I personally wouldn't mulch with it. If it's yellow-brown, thick hollow stems, no flowers but possibly some grain heads, it's straw. Beyond that, see above (yes, we've discussed the cover crops and I've be working on a write-up on my experiences). :)

Shade cloth is very good, but it may not fit everyone's scenario.
 
#37
Are you doing a cover crop while the plants are still growing Seamaiden? One of the issues I've had with cover crops is by the time the outdoor plants are finished and chopped down, it's too late in the year and too cold to get good germination going. The seeds I sowed in my beds last year didn't germinate until the weather warmed up in the spring. I am thinking of trying to get the cover crop going in like late Sept or early Oct while the plants are still in the ground, before the winter hits.
 
#38
Blaze said:
Are you doing a cover crop while the plants are still growing Seamaiden? One of the issues I've had with cover crops is by the time the outdoor plants are finished and chopped down, it's too late in the year and too cold to get good germination going. The seeds I sowed in my beds last year didn't germinate until the weather warmed up in the spring. I am thinking of trying to get the cover crop going in like late Sept or early Oct while the plants are still in the ground, before the winter hits.
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Yes, I am, it's the whole point. You will need to rotate crops, and expand greatly the species used, especially at the same time. ;) You'll also have to spend some time doing the old "chop & drop" but that's putting the nutrients right back into the soil, while at the same time keeping it covered and, this is absolutely key, ALIVE. I'm finding that soil depth is making a HUGE difference as well as how the beds are filled. While at first I was concerned that the bed being almost 3' deep would cause me problems, in fact it's working out great. Also, I've borrowed permaculture techniques and have logs in the bottom of the bed, and they're acting as a massive sponge. This is disallowing the mid-day wilt entirely (only in that bed, the Smarties are typical for Smart Pots--dry out far too quickly and get hot in the sun, and are too shallow).
 
#40
Fusarium oxysporum can cause catastrophic losses to crops. In fact, it is considered one of the most economically significant soil borne plant pathogens globally. Most strains are not pathogenic, but those that are can be devastating. It is possible - though probably unlikely given the largely scattered nature of cannabis cultivation - that there is a cannabis-specific strain (f. sp.) of F. oxysporum dong the rounds. However, with legalization, it is probable that this will become more of an issue. Unfortunately, controls employed are largely determined by strain, so without knowing exact what you are dealing with, it's difficult to make judgements on how best to manage the problem.

YS
 
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