lordjin
- 196
- 63
that sucks, is it possible for a return? i bet it wasnt cheap .
Thanks. Yeah, the online dealer has pretty good service. They're gonna refund me on the return. And you're right. It wasn't cheap.
that sucks, is it possible for a return? i bet it wasnt cheap .
you gotta post up some glory shots bro . .
howabout the money shots??
any mods here that can make a ruling on nude pics ??Show me the banned farmer!
Sorry, guys. To see my uncensored work, you'll have to tune into my blog... which I will finally start after shooting Carly this Friday.
Peace!
any mods here that can make a ruling on nude pics ??
in the mean time please post a link
Hey, all. I ran extensive tests on that Fresca Sol water light, and it doesn't work as described by the marketing material. Avoid this unit.
There's a label on the end cap that says it's rated for 1000w hps. The manufacturer instructions say that it'll run with a 50 gallon res no chiller, 25 gallon res with chiller. The bulb heated up 28 gallons of water to 81 degrees and there wasn't much my 1/10hp chiller could do about it.
It might work better with a smaller wattage like 400, but for a 1000w, forget this thing.
damn to hear that on the light, was thinking it was all hype.....too much glass, no airflow past the bulb....gotta be another way, can you have the ends open to pass air through?
Gentlemen, we're getting into an area of design where I feel I have some useful experience I can share with you... I've been working with water cooling for years now, and I can assure you that these devices work well, if properly installed and supported. First, since I don't know what the marketing material promised, I can't speak to its promises, so I'll speak to the specific data provided by lordjin in the second quote above.
1. If the water used to cool the bulb warmed up to *only* 81 degrees, how is that considered a failure? That means you- or plant leaves- could touch the bulb housing in operation and it's only warm, correct? What temperature threshold would you consider successful, and why? Keep in mind that heat still passes through the jacket and lands on the plants. This radiant heat is desirable and necessary to plant growth, but it needs to be dealt with by other means than the Fresca Sol. That is, some AC will still be necessary to maintain grow room temps, and the notion that it somehow wouldn't is flawed.
2. 1/10 hp chillers are only good for cooling the heat generated by a waterpump sitting in the bottom of a res, or perhaps a cloner. The capacity certainly isn't there for any more- and the 1000w bulb (4500BTu, plus 1500 more for the ballast) you're trying to cool with it amounts to throwing ice cubes at a hot springs. Radiant cooling from hoses and reservoir is likely to account for more heat reduction in your system than that lil thing, lol!
3. I am an advocate for actively cooling what a grower has to cool, but also for NOT cooling that which can be effectively vented another way. This has implications not only for efficiency and operating costs, but also for system stability and potential for problems. Therefore, I prefer to see people vent their bulbs' heat away, using a ducted reflector- generally the biggest they can fit- and exhausting the hot air outside or wherever it might be desired. Venting into living spaces in the winter is a fine way to repurpose that heat, for example.
So to sum up; I think you've actually done an admirable job of proving the Fresca Sol does work, even with a dramatic undercapacity in cooling. If the resultant temps are still too high, then consider ducting the hot air away instead- a cheaper solution in any case- or look at the air conditioning in your grow tent, which may be close to its capacity. In any case, a 1/10 hp chiller produces maybe 1000BTu of cooling, the 1000w bulb produces 4500BTu of heat, plus another 1500 for a magnetic ballast, a bit less for digital. Poor thing was just outclassed...
Damn, I wish you had posted this before I actually bought the thing. Your BTU breakdown spells out mathematically why the poor chiller was just spinning and spinning.
What was my perception of success? An unrealistic one. As soon as I ran the first test for about 30 minutes, I knew I was barking up the wrong tree. I realized afterwards that a much, much larger res (perhaps 50 gal or even more) might keep the res stable at 75f with a 1000w light/ballast. But that's like a freaking wading pool in your living room. Not practical.
Maybe my conclusion was a little too final on the matter. I feel the product can be effective for certain situations, and it's probably a piece better suited for smaller wattages.
I don't think all the trouble of fussing with all that water for just one light is worth it for me overall.
You were right, FM. Back to air-cooling for me.
Edit: During the test, I had the light suspended over a table top at about 7.5" resting on cinder blocks. The surface of the table got pretty bad-ass hot. The marketing material says you can keep it eight inches from your plant safely. I don't think so.
i don't know why they don't vent heat as well with added fan cooling or something....maybe the space between glass and bulb isn't enough for air to pass through enough to cool perhaps.....
I like air cooling, if the glass blocks something out, i dont know what?! my colas seem pretty nice to me :) nearly ready to cure.
Water cooling one light isn't worth it. In fact, I'm really of the opinion that water cooling lights isn't worth the expense, period- unless you have a large source of free cold water, like a stream, lol. Even if outside temps hit a blistering 45c (113f), air cooling still removes more heat than it introduces, believe it or not. It helps to insulate the hoods and the ducting, of course, and the most important design aspect of setting up ducted cooling for hoods is to NEVER push air through the ducting; always pull air through the hoods, keeping your fan downstream.
The reason I dislike cooling lights is that its very expensive to do- as you just found out- and it's totally unnecessary! After all, the plants are what's supposed to stay cool, not the light, lol. So my personal philosophy for cooling is let's direct our cooling efforts at the leaves, and only at the leaves.
That heat you felt through the Fresca Sol housing illustrates the point that none of these reflectors is designed to deal with radiant heat- nor should they; that's much of what the plant uses to grow! Still, that heat needs to be dealt with, by the cooling system of the growig environment. A Fresca Sol just isn't the right tool for that job.
Finally, it is possible for plant leaves to thrive at 8" distance from a 1000w bulb, provided both bulb and plant are adequately ventilated. This means the bulb needs to be in a sealed hood with the cooling air running. The plant's leaves need to harden off to that kind of intensity and the plant needs a fan blowing across the leaves. It's still not ideal; it's just too much light/heat stress to be optimal. A minimum of 12" and preferably 24-30" are better distance options from 1000w bulb to canopy.
If you can vent, why actively cool too? So it just isn't needed. I agree with your air cooling assessment, provided it's properly installed of course.
There is a step up from here; open hoods (like adjust-a-wing) and extra cooling capacity to handle the extra heat in the tent. This does give more light intensity to the plants... it's just a bit more expensive.
Hey, you know what? You're pretty awesome. Thanks for all the great input.
How does the water in combination with the glass reduce the power of the light? Glass can reduce a lights intensity by 25% and air cooling reduces the lights power even more. So a water cooled light... anyone do any tests to see if it makes a 1k more of an 800K? Just curious. Pros and cons of AC vs. cooling the bulb.