Leaf Margins Turning Yellow

[MIMedGrower]

My next soil grow I think I will start in Rock Wool then transplant to something not as hot as FFOF then when they go into their final pots use the FFOF to transplant. It seems like it will be easier to diagnose any potential issues with way less factors in play.

Ocean forrest is not “hot”. It needs added large perlite for drainage and it compacts easily. Watered properly and transplanted to proper size pots i water only until week 2 in 12/12 and only then start adding nutes. Like 25% of directions with the mature plant in its final pot.

All in ocean forest with 30% large perlite mixed in.

 

[Jelimafish]

Did you calibrate your meter? because when I see leaves turning crispy like that, especially in fresh Ocean Forest I think pH, again a slurry test will tell you what's going on with your soil / route situation post results if you need information on slow reach test its 2 to 1 soil to distilled water mix it for 15 minutes

but it's no good unless you know you're calibration is correct on your meter? that's what I'd check first, good luck!

Edit: in my opinion foxfarm ocean Forest being hot is hype there's only problems when grow is feed too early like you've done I did a slurry recently on a fresh bag and it was under 500 and a round 6.4, imo that's not hot

Did you calibrate your meter? because when I see leaves turning crispy like that, especially in fresh Ocean Forest I think pH, again a slurry test will tell you what's going on with your soil / route situation post results if you need information on slow reach test its 2 to 1 soil to distilled water mix it for 15 minutes

but it's no good unless you know you're calibration is correct on your meter? that's what I'd check first, good luck!

Edit: in my opinion foxfarm ocean Forest being hot is hype there's only problems when growers feed copious amounts of newts too early; I did a slurry recently on a fresh bag and it was under 500 ppm and around 6.4, imo that's not hot

I calibrate it one a week or so but will double check to make sure. Thank you for the suggestion on the slurry test, that is the first time I have even heard of a slurry test and it seems like an extremely useful test. I will check everything out and will post back. Thank you again!

 

[Jelimafish]

Ocean forrest is not “hot”. It needs added large perlite for drainage and it compacts easily. Watered properly and transplanted to proper size pots i water only until week 2 in 12/12 and only then start adding nutes. Like 25% of directions with the mature plant in its final pot.

All in ocean forest with 30% large perlite mixed in.

View attachment 910711

I am just going off of what everyone seems to think the issue is. When my plants were in the Solo Cups there was no added perlite but when I transplanted I added 30% in to help with drainage. The nutes I fed Monday were 25% of recommended dosage but this started well before that.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I am just going off of what everyone seems to think the issue is. When my plants were in the Solo Cups there was no added perlite but when I transplanted I added 30% in to help with drainage. The nutes I fed Monday were 25% of recommended dosage but this started well before that.

Yes but did the plant need water every day?

The plants in the pic i posted get watered maybe once a week after transplant and then again 5 days later. As they fill the pots with roots the watering time shortens. When it gets to 3 days i am usually ready to transplant up.

 

[Beachwalker]

I calibrate it one a week or so but will double check to make sure. Thank you for the suggestion on the slurry test, that is the first time I

Yes but did the plant need water every day?

The plants in the pic i posted get watered maybe once a week after transplant and then again 5 days later. As they fill the pots with roots the watering time shortens. When it gets to 3 days i am usually ready to transplant up.

Looked at up & I think you nailed it with the over-watering and or poor watering habits; although I'd still like to see a slurry test, I bet it would be normal range

Op-> https://www.growweedeasy.com/what-causes-leaves-to-get-dry-or-crispy-and-how-do-i-fix-it

 

[MIMedGrower]

Looked at up & I think you nailed it with the over-watering and or poor watering habits; although I'd still like to see a slurry test, I bet it would be normal range

Op-> https://www.growweedeasy.com/what-causes-leaves-to-get-dry-or-crispy-and-how-do-i-fix-it

Honestly i dont see any reason ever to do a slurry test on a potting soil container grow. If the ph is low you simply flush and the buffer will return it to the proper range. I only test ph on new mixes before planting. And maybe if i cant correct a problem.

 

[Jelimafish]

Yes but did the plant need water every day?

The plants in the pic i posted get watered maybe once a week after transplant and then again 5 days later. As they fill the pots with roots the watering time shortens. When it gets to 3 days i am usually ready to transplant up.

I felt like they did, my humidity in the tent has been around 20% because its winter and the fireplace down stairs drys the hell out of the air. I was able to boost it to about 30% with a humidifier and finally got it to 40+% by just placing a damp towel in front of the fan. They seemed to need to drink a lot more with such low humidity. It is a pain in the arse to wet this towel every 2-3 hours or so but if it helps keep everything happy it is worth it.

 

[Jelimafish]

Now reading what I just wrote I wonder if the low humidity caused the plants to drink more which caused me to water more which caused a greater uptake of nutrients which caused the discoloration. Could this all be from the low humidity or am I grasping at straws?

 

[Aqua Man]

Now reading what I just wrote I wonder if the low humidity caused the plants to drink more which caused me to water more which caused a greater uptake of nutrients which caused the discoloration. Could this all be from the low humidity or am I grasping at straws?

Yes it could be. I just made a thread on VPD you may wanna look at.

VPD (vapor pressure deficit)

Ok i was gonna sit down and write out a whole article but i have been lazy so instead instead I'm going to copy paste because im lazy. This is not my work so let start. You may find this very long but its worth the read. Some may want to skip ahead. I have added here and there to what i feel is...

www.thcfarmer.com

 

[Jelimafish]

Yes it could be. I just made a thread on VPD you may wanna look at.

VPD (vapor pressure deficit)

Ok i was gonna sit down and write out a whole article but i have been lazy so instead instead I'm going to copy paste because im lazy. This is not my work so let start. You may find this very long but its worth the read. Some may want to skip ahead. I have added here and there to what i feel is...

www.thcfarmer.com

Awesome, will check it out now! Thank you!

 

[Beachwalker]

Honestly i dont see any reason ever to do a slurry test on a potting soil container grow. If the ph is low you simply flush and the buffer will return it to the proper range. I only test ph on new mixes before planting. And maybe if i cant correct a problem.

I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.

Op heres an old trick: fill up a pot the same size you're using with the same mixture you're using and leave it dry

Then when you think you want to water pick up both pots and compare the weight and when they feel almost the same that's when you water

Also don't judge how wet it is by sticking your finger in the top of the soil; stick it in the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to see how wet it really is

 

[Jelimafish]

I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.

Op heres an old trick: fill up a pot the same size you're using with the same mixture you're using and leave it dry

Then when you think you want to water pick up both pots and compare the weight and when they feel almost the same that's when you water

Also don't judge how wet it is by sticking your finger in the top of the soil; stick it in the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to see how wet it really is

That sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?

 

[MIMedGrower]

Now reading what I just wrote I wonder if the low humidity caused the plants to drink more which caused me to water more which caused a greater uptake of nutrients which caused the discoloration. Could this all be from the low humidity or am I grasping at straws?

20% is way low for plants but still i have seen it managed fine. I think you still just overwatered. How did you determine they needed water?

 

[Aqua Man]

IMO and i'm not a true soil grower. its important to saturate the entire pot. But this should be done 24/48hrs before planting into as to allow a moist but not over saturated media. From there with a small plant you probably don't need to water until after a week. As suggested above weighing the pot dry then weighting after saturation gives you a good indication. I haven't done thins myself but if you take the difference in weight and count that as 100% so say 5 lbs is 100% 2.5 would be 50% etc. etc etc. I believe with small plants watering at 30-40% is about right once they are bigger about 50%. I also don't believe there is a need to PH in premixed soils we have goin on today, the buffering is already worked into the soil and I would agree with @MIMedGrower that if PH gets too low its likely due to a nutrient buildup in the soil and a flush should take care of it.

Like i say im a hydro grower but understanding PH in both soil and hydro is not any different. Some may feel differently and correct my info but this is how i see things.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.

Op heres an old trick: fill up a pot the same size you're using with the same mixture you're using and leave it dry

Then when you think you want to water pick up both pots and compare the weight and when they feel almost the same that's when you water

Also don't judge how wet it is by sticking your finger in the top of the soil; stick it in the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to see how wet it really is

I have never had to add lime or adjusted ph in 3 gallon pots to harvest any of the plants you saw from me. All issues are either environmental or grower error. Once flushed fed properly and let dry out they are still fine even at 12 weeks. Thats 14 or 15 in the final pot.

 

[Jelimafish]

20% is way low for plants but still i have seen it managed fine. I think you still just overwatered. How did you determine they needed water?

I always wait at least 24 hours then feel the soil and lift the bag to see how light/heavy it is. There is a super strong possibility that I am just over zealous and watered too much. I will cut back and check every 2-3 days to see how heavy they are and will just use PH Water to see what happens. Luckily I am still early on and they look pretty good so hopefully just those small changes correct course. Now my main concern is that these are not Fem seeds and my space is small so if I get 2 females I don't think I can grow them both and if I get 2 males I just wasted a month. I guess I will find that out in the next 2-3 weeks though.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I always wait at least 24 hours then feel the soil and lift the bag to see how light/heavy it is. There is a super strong possibility that I am just over zealous and watered too much. I will cut back and check every 2-3 days to see how heavy they are and will just use PH Water to see what happens. Luckily I am still early on and they look pretty good so hopefully just those small changes correct course. Now my main concern is that these are not Fem seeds and my space is small so if I get 2 females I don't think I can grow them both and if I get 2 males I just wasted a month. I guess I will find that out in the next 2-3 weeks though.

I found a simple probe style moisture meter helped me get the watering straight. When the pot is dry 3/4 the way down its safe to resaturate the pot.

I just got one to replace my old broken one for like 15 bucks on amazon. Its a 3 way meter. Needle guage old style and has ph and light settings but they are useless. The moisture meters however work great.

 

[Beachwalker]

That sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?

That's the fastest way to learn, and it's foolproof that way too, good luck!

That sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?

I add one level tablespoon of dolomite lime per 1 gallon of ffof soil; it usually locks it right about 6 3-6.5 the whole grow. I top dress another tablespoon IF I noticed the runoff numbers below 6.0, this occasionally will happen in the beginning couple weeks of bloom

 

[Jelimafish]

Thank you all so much for the great advice/help with this, it is appreciated more then you know!

 

[nicolajanjak]

I found a simple probe style moisture meter helped me get the watering straight. When the pot is dry 3/4 the way down its safe to resaturate the pot.

I just got one to replace my old broken one for like 15 bucks on amazon. Its a 3 way meter. Needle guage old style and has ph and light settings but they are useless. The moisture meters however work great.

yeah bro true
i use the delta-t sm150t from delta t. great pro tool worth its price. soil is the only medium i take measurement from the top..
saturated my biobizz light is around 75% WC .. i aim to water at 20%wc during stretch 15% during bloom 12% on the end and even steer it to 6-8% just before the wilting point
it makes pretty much the same value you give for bloom ..