MIMedGrower
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Did you calibrate your meter? because when I see leaves turning crispy like that, especially in fresh Ocean Forest I think pH, again a slurry test will tell you what's going on with your soil / route situation post results if you need information on slow reach test its 2 to 1 soil to distilled water mix it for 15 minutes
but it's no good unless you know you're calibration is correct on your meter? that's what I'd check first, good luck!
Edit: in my opinion foxfarm ocean Forest being hot is hype there's only problems when grow is feed too early like you've done I did a slurry recently on a fresh bag and it was under 500 and a round 6.4, imo that's not hot
I calibrate it one a week or so but will double check to make sure. Thank you for the suggestion on the slurry test, that is the first time I have even heard of a slurry test and it seems like an extremely useful test. I will check everything out and will post back. Thank you again!Did you calibrate your meter? because when I see leaves turning crispy like that, especially in fresh Ocean Forest I think pH, again a slurry test will tell you what's going on with your soil / route situation post results if you need information on slow reach test its 2 to 1 soil to distilled water mix it for 15 minutes
but it's no good unless you know you're calibration is correct on your meter? that's what I'd check first, good luck!
Edit: in my opinion foxfarm ocean Forest being hot is hype there's only problems when growers feed copious amounts of newts too early; I did a slurry recently on a fresh bag and it was under 500 ppm and around 6.4, imo that's not hot
I am just going off of what everyone seems to think the issue is. When my plants were in the Solo Cups there was no added perlite but when I transplanted I added 30% in to help with drainage. The nutes I fed Monday were 25% of recommended dosage but this started well before that.Ocean forrest is not “hot”. It needs added large perlite for drainage and it compacts easily. Watered properly and transplanted to proper size pots i water only until week 2 in 12/12 and only then start adding nutes. Like 25% of directions with the mature plant in its final pot.
All in ocean forest with 30% large perlite mixed in.
View attachment 910711
I am just going off of what everyone seems to think the issue is. When my plants were in the Solo Cups there was no added perlite but when I transplanted I added 30% in to help with drainage. The nutes I fed Monday were 25% of recommended dosage but this started well before that.
I calibrate it one a week or so but will double check to make sure. Thank you for the suggestion on the slurry test, that is the first time I
Looked at up & I think you nailed it with the over-watering and or poor watering habits; although I'd still like to see a slurry test, I bet it would be normal rangeYes but did the plant need water every day?
The plants in the pic i posted get watered maybe once a week after transplant and then again 5 days later. As they fill the pots with roots the watering time shortens. When it gets to 3 days i am usually ready to transplant up.
Looked at up & I think you nailed it with the over-watering and or poor watering habits; although I'd still like to see a slurry test, I bet it would be normal range
Op-> https://www.growweedeasy.com/what-causes-leaves-to-get-dry-or-crispy-and-how-do-i-fix-it
I felt like they did, my humidity in the tent has been around 20% because its winter and the fireplace down stairs drys the hell out of the air. I was able to boost it to about 30% with a humidifier and finally got it to 40+% by just placing a damp towel in front of the fan. They seemed to need to drink a lot more with such low humidity. It is a pain in the arse to wet this towel every 2-3 hours or so but if it helps keep everything happy it is worth it.Yes but did the plant need water every day?
The plants in the pic i posted get watered maybe once a week after transplant and then again 5 days later. As they fill the pots with roots the watering time shortens. When it gets to 3 days i am usually ready to transplant up.
Yes it could be. I just made a thread on VPD you may wanna look at.Now reading what I just wrote I wonder if the low humidity caused the plants to drink more which caused me to water more which caused a greater uptake of nutrients which caused the discoloration. Could this all be from the low humidity or am I grasping at straws?
Awesome, will check it out now! Thank you!Yes it could be. I just made a thread on VPD you may wanna look at.
VPD (vapor pressure deficit)
Ok i was gonna sit down and write out a whole article but i have been lazy so instead instead I'm going to copy paste because im lazy. This is not my work so let start. You may find this very long but its worth the read. Some may want to skip ahead. I have added here and there to what i feel is...www.thcfarmer.com
I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.Honestly i dont see any reason ever to do a slurry test on a potting soil container grow. If the ph is low you simply flush and the buffer will return it to the proper range. I only test ph on new mixes before planting. And maybe if i cant correct a problem.
That sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.
Op heres an old trick: fill up a pot the same size you're using with the same mixture you're using and leave it dry
Then when you think you want to water pick up both pots and compare the weight and when they feel almost the same that's when you water
Also don't judge how wet it is by sticking your finger in the top of the soil; stick it in the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to see how wet it really is
Now reading what I just wrote I wonder if the low humidity caused the plants to drink more which caused me to water more which caused a greater uptake of nutrients which caused the discoloration. Could this all be from the low humidity or am I grasping at straws?
I've noticed the buffers usually gone by the sixth week or so, but I would definitely flush that with 6.5 probably double my normal volume and then start proper watering habits.
Op heres an old trick: fill up a pot the same size you're using with the same mixture you're using and leave it dry
Then when you think you want to water pick up both pots and compare the weight and when they feel almost the same that's when you water
Also don't judge how wet it is by sticking your finger in the top of the soil; stick it in the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to see how wet it really is
I always wait at least 24 hours then feel the soil and lift the bag to see how light/heavy it is. There is a super strong possibility that I am just over zealous and watered too much. I will cut back and check every 2-3 days to see how heavy they are and will just use PH Water to see what happens. Luckily I am still early on and they look pretty good so hopefully just those small changes correct course. Now my main concern is that these are not Fem seeds and my space is small so if I get 2 females I don't think I can grow them both and if I get 2 males I just wasted a month. I guess I will find that out in the next 2-3 weeks though.20% is way low for plants but still i have seen it managed fine. I think you still just overwatered. How did you determine they needed water?
I always wait at least 24 hours then feel the soil and lift the bag to see how light/heavy it is. There is a super strong possibility that I am just over zealous and watered too much. I will cut back and check every 2-3 days to see how heavy they are and will just use PH Water to see what happens. Luckily I am still early on and they look pretty good so hopefully just those small changes correct course. Now my main concern is that these are not Fem seeds and my space is small so if I get 2 females I don't think I can grow them both and if I get 2 males I just wasted a month. I guess I will find that out in the next 2-3 weeks though.
That's the fastest way to learn, and it's foolproof that way too, good luck!That sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?
I add one level tablespoon of dolomite lime per 1 gallon of ffof soil; it usually locks it right about 6 3-6.5 the whole grow. I top dress another tablespoon IF I noticed the runoff numbers below 6.0, this occasionally will happen in the beginning couple weeks of bloomThat sounds like a great idea at least until I have a few more grows under my belt, at that point I imagine it is just an overall sense of when to water. Is the buffer going away why people recommend adding dolemite lime to FFOF or is that just a boost of Calcium etc.?
yeah bro trueI found a simple probe style moisture meter helped me get the watering straight. When the pot is dry 3/4 the way down its safe to resaturate the pot.
I just got one to replace my old broken one for like 15 bucks on amazon. Its a 3 way meter. Needle guage old style and has ph and light settings but they are useless. The moisture meters however work great.
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