Leaf spots

  • Thread starter Toakchillz
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Toakchillz

Toakchillz

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I just had a little look and it seems it’s starting on the next set of leafs up ! so something must be up with it I guess
 
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Wee Zard

Wee Zard

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Try this. Snip off the end of a leaf and take a good look at the bottom side with a 100x magifier. Tell us what you see. Or, better yet, show us.
 
Toakchillz

Toakchillz

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Try this. Snip off the end of a leaf and take a good look at the bottom side with a 100x magifier. Tell us what you see. Or, better yet, show us.
It’s pretty hard to see , but I see a few thing looking like tape worms also I see a few black things inside the clear things ,
 
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Kepp89

Kepp89

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Hey guys im new to growing and wanted to follow this thread to learn everything I can.

I was wondering why you clipped those leaves to look like that. Is that a certain growing technique?
i believe that'd be low stress training. you just bend the stems little by little as it grows and it will maintain that shape once its more grown up
 
Dondank

Dondank

4
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i believe that'd be low stress training. you just bend the stems little by little as it grows and it will maintain that shape once its more grown up

And im guessing the reason people do this is so when they get bigger they will not block each other from the light?
 
Kepp89

Kepp89

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And im guessing the reason people do this is so when they get bigger they will not block each other from the light?
that and they wont grow as high or at least it gives you more veg time without stealing height space from flowering
 
Jimster

Jimster

Supporter
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And im guessing the reason people do this is so when they get bigger they will not block each other from the light?
Yes. As plants grow, the areas that get more direct light grow best, so it makes sense to try to position larger leaves (or remove the leaf or a lobe) in such a way that it allows light to hit the growing ends of lower branches. When you get a thick canopy, the bushy leaves block out a lot of light on growth under the canopy. By allowing more light into the plant, more budding sites can be exposed during flowering, which should help to increase your yield. Don't overdo it, just pluck a few where needed.
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

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It’s pretty hard to see , but I see a few thing looking like tape worms also I see a few black things inside the clear things ,
That long black thing is just a piece of dust the other pictures are just normal looking parts of the plant. There is nothing that looks worrying in your pictures. Speaking of pictures, that purple light sucks for showing what your issues are, please if you can take pictures in normal lighting so the damage is easier to see.

I would be leaning towards a magnesium deficiency. When I run BioBizz products I tend to supplement with a little Sweet from Botanicare which is magnesium sulfate, I find it keeps the Mg deficiencies to a minimum. But I said this in my first post on the thread.

The other thing it may be is simple over watering. Water only when the soil is dry enough that it needs the water. If you are giving the plant water before the soil is dry you will be depriving the roots of the oxygen they need to make your plant thrive.

Again, the Top Max is a bloom booster, its only needed in the flowering phase of the plants life. In veg you should be using BioGrow (or Fish Mix), Root Juice and Bio Heaven, plus I add in Sweet. I also like Photosynthesis + from Microbe Life Hydroponics, its a broad spectrum microbial inoculant and works wonders on plants.
 
Toakchillz

Toakchillz

17
3
That long black thing is just a piece of dust the other pictures are just normal looking parts of the plant. There is nothing that looks worrying in your pictures. Speaking of pictures, that purple light sucks for showing what your issues are, please if you can take pictures in normal lighting so the damage is easier to see.

I would be leaning towards a magnesium deficiency. When I run BioBizz products I tend to supplement with a little Sweet from Botanicare which is magnesium sulfate, I find it keeps the Mg deficiencies to a minimum. But I said this in my first post on the thread.

The other thing it may be is simple over watering. Water only when the soil is dry enough that it needs the water. If you are giving the plant water before the soil is dry you will be depriving the roots of the oxygen they need to make your plant thrive.

Again, the Top Max is a bloom booster, its only needed in the flowering phase of the plants life. In veg you should be using BioGrow (or Fish Mix), Root Juice and Bio Heaven, plus I add in Sweet. I also like Photosynthesis + from Microbe Life Hydroponics, its a broad spectrum microbial inoculant and works wonders on plants.
aw okay i see thats good news it doesn't look too bad! , i water it every 2-3 day with about 0.8 litre , does that sound a lot ?
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

2,235
263
aw okay i see thats good news it doesn't look too bad! , i water it every 2-3 day with about 0.8 litre , does that sound a lot ?
No that sounds like an ok amount. But if the pot is not drying out than either water with less water each time or less frequently. Personally I would water with less volume each time. What size pot is the plant in?

The best way to determine this is after you water next time wait 10 minutes to let the water disperse and drain off, then lift the pot. Lift the pot each day until it is noticeably light, that is when you want to water your plants. Do this every time you water, it will quickly teach you how often your plants really need to be watered.
 
Wee Zard

Wee Zard

518
143
One step beyond that. I use a postal scale.
I weigh the plant when bone dry, weigh it again when dripping wet. Then, write that down.
Now I know If, when, and approximately how much to water.
(when you get old it becomes harder to judge weight by heft.)

Aloha,
Weeze
 
Toakchillz

Toakchillz

17
3
No that sounds like an ok amount. But if the pot is not drying out than either water with less water each time or less frequently. Personally I would water with less volume each time. What size pot is the plant in?

The best way to determine this is after you water next time wait 10 minutes to let the water disperse and drain off, then lift the pot. Lift the pot each day until it is noticeably light, that is when you want to water your plants. Do this every time you water, it will quickly teach you how often your plants really need to be watered.
I'm running a 19L pot , i have seen that a lot with people talking about lifting it too see the weight , i guess the real way of knowing would be put them on the scales !
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

2,235
263
I'm running a 19L pot , i have seen that a lot with people talking about lifting it too see the weight , i guess the real way of knowing would be put them on the scales !
Scales are wholly unnecessary, if you can feel that they are noticeably lighter than when you initially watered its time for more. No specific weights are needed to determine if it feels lighter.

I would say you have your young plant in a pot that is too large for it. I would have suggested to start the plant in a smaller pot and once you have to water every day it is time to move into a larger pot. Your root system has barely begun to move through your medium and therefore those pots are going to stay wet for a longer period of time. You can try watering around the plant but not all the way out to the edge of the pot to speed up the time between drying. This will still encourage the plant to send roots out in search of water but will keep the soil from staying saturated for too long.
 
Toakchillz

Toakchillz

17
3
Scales are wholly unnecessary, if you can feel that they are noticeably lighter than when you initially watered its time for more. No specific weights are needed to determine if it feels lighter.

I would say you have your young plant in a pot that is too large for it. I would have suggested to start the plant in a smaller pot and once you have to water every day it is time to move into a larger pot. Your root system has barely begun to move through your medium and therefore those pots are going to stay wet for a longer period of time. You can try watering around the plant but not all the way out to the edge of the pot to speed up the time between drying. This will still encourage the plant to send roots out in search of water but will keep the soil from staying saturated for too long.
okay i understand ! thanks for the info , as i say its the fist grow so this is all new to me really !
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

2,235
263
okay i understand ! thanks for the info , as i say its the fist grow so this is all new to me really !
Patience is the best tool in the garden. Knowledge is a very close second. Keep at it but keep it simple, you will get the hang of this in no time.
 
Toakchillz

Toakchillz

17
3
Patience is the best tool in the garden. Knowledge is a very close second. Keep at it but keep it simple, you will get the hang of this in no time.
Yea I guess you cant
Run before you crawl ! Thanks for the help !
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

2,235
263
Yea I guess you cant
Run before you crawl ! Thanks for the help !
Even when we have learned to run sometimes we still need to crawl. We live in a society where we tend to overlook the basics, but it is the basics that will keep us successful. We are all here to help each other, so keep asking your questions and you will be running in no time.
 
Urbangrowthbounder

Urbangrowthbounder

6
3
Sorry I’m new to this so may posted in the wrong place ! But my glue gelato auto is just finished week 3 and I have small spots on it , any idea what this is ??
I can't tell for sure but is that moss or an algae growing on the top of your medium? If it is air flow and humidity need to be adjusted. Check the roots for any signs of rot.
 

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