C.dutchpuxx
- 18
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Same thing happened to mine adjusted ppm to 1800 like they say cause my plants are two months along in veg and had to use around 55ml per 2.5 gallons which I thought was a little high but thats what it took to get the ppm to 1800 lots of mind bogglenation here and doesnt help im running all different strainsBtw these are pics of them at night, in the daytime theyre much more perky and not drooping, the only drooping there is in the daytime is the tips or the “clawing”
Ive already taken light and heat off the tables, my grow room is room temperature and the yellowing is happening in leaves that are almost getting no light, so its def not thatIf the problem starts at the top of the plant it’s an immobile nutrient deficiency. If the problem starts at the bottom it’s a mobile nutrient deficiency. Immobile nutrients are often referred to as micro nutrients and mobile nutrients are sometimes referred to as macro nutrients.
Light and heat over saturation can often be mistaken for deficiencies so be sure to check that off the list before making any drastic changes.
Once you figure out where the issue is coming from you can address it. Many times immobile nutrient deficiency is due to improper VPD and not a lack of nutrient in the growing medium.
Foliar feeding can be a great way of administering micro (immobile nutrients).
Mobile / macro nutrients = Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium (NPK)
Immobile / micro nutrients = Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Sulphur, Manganese, etc.
WHAT???ive been having to use over 100 drops of Gh Ph down just to bring a gallon of my tap water down from 7.6 to 6.0.
so like can using a lot of Ph down be toxic to the plants?
When you said it's the leaves with "no light" ie: the bottom of the plant = mobile issue. The plant is taking from where it needs it the least. Reduce or eliminate the calmag and redo the rez and give a week, those leaves will not come back but you should stop seeing new yellowing. But seriously you need to find out the runoff EC tooIve already taken light and heat off the tables, my grow room is room temperature and the yellowing is happening in leaves that are almost getting no light, so its def not that
but im starting to think its my Ph down, recently ive been having to use over 100 drops of Gh Ph down just to bring a gallon of my tap water down from 7.6 to 6.0. And my last grow I would NEVER have to use that much, id only have to use 20 drops or so
so like can using a lot of Ph down be toxic to the plants? I just cant see it being a deficiency the leaves have been yellowing and clawing on completely random areas, hasnt been starting from the top, or bottom, its just been happening randomly all over the place.
Ill look into the runoff EC the next time i give them a watering, I never was aware i had to keep track of that i thought it was just about Ph and ppmWhen you said it's the leaves with "no light" ie: the bottom of the plant = mobile issue. The plant is taking from where it needs it the least. Reduce or eliminate the calmag and redo the rez and give a week, those leaves will not come back but you should stop seeing new yellowing. But seriously you need to find out the runoff EC too
its definitely not my meter, ive been calibrating it daily ever sense this has been happening, and whenever i use Ph down in my nutrient solution i only have to use like 10 drops to bring a gallon of nut solution down from 6.3 ish to 5.5. But then with my plain tap water i have to use a ton of ph down just to bring it down by one point. So is there any way like my tap water could be reacting with my Ph down or something? Because this is only happening with my tap water, not my nutrient solution or anything elseWHAT???
Well there's your problem right there! Guarantee you that's got something to do with why you're showing a potassium lockout; you need to either recalibrate your meter or figure out why that's happening because that's not right
I have gh up and down out there although I don't use it anymore, but to bring 1 gallon of my 8.9 tap water down to 6.5, don't recall exactly but it was somewhere around 10 drops maybe less..its definitely not my meter, ive been calibrating it daily ever sense this has been happening, and whenever i use Ph down in my nutrient solution i only have to use like 10 drops to bring a gallon of nut solution down from 6.3 ish to 5.5. But then with my plain tap water i have to use a ton of ph down just to bring it down by one point. So is there any way like my tap water could be reacting with my Ph down or something? Because this is only happening with my tap water, not my nutrient solution or anything else
*1Looks like a possible potassium deficiency, could make sense if you have been very light on feed. If its starting low and working up the plant its usually not a toxicity but the plant using reserves from older leaves
After transplant, depending on how much they were disturbed they can drink way less for several days ime.
Also one more thing, excess calcium will block the K so something else to look into...
I just helped someone else through this exact thing and the pH meter was the problem. As soon as he got a new pH meter he tested the stuff he mixed and the pH was down to 4.1 but the old pH meter was still saying 6.89. Stick with bluelab. Buy it once or buy it twice.I have gh up and down out there although I don't use it anymore, but to bring 1 gallon of my 8.9 tap water down to 6.5, don't recall exactly but it was somewhere around 10 drops maybe less..
so if you're using over a hundred drops to adjust just one gallon you've got something very wrong my friend ??
Edit: I use citric acid and I bring my 8.9 down to 6.4 with just 5 drops per gallon, so I believe that's what's causing the potassium locked-out!
Let's see if we can get you to talk to @Aqua Man he's the one to talk to about all things aqua, and I think he'd be interested to see this one because I've never heard of anything like this not even close
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