Led lumatek ats pro 310 watt running hot.

[George75]

230v is two legs/poles of 115v. If one leg/pole is dead amps will double as will heat. So make sure your powering the light correctly. Here in the USA our common power is 110/120v-1 phase. Clothes dryers, a/c, welders and stuff like that are 220/240v-1 phase. Emergency and specialty power is 277v. Industrial power starts with 208/230v-460v-3 phase and goes up from there. My HLG lights will run at 120/240-277v depending on the plug/cord cap used. And the power supplied. The drivers are smart sensing.

Thank you for the clarification.

 

[George75]

when i told lumatek that the driver is very hot and i can't touch it after 30sec they told me it needs to be replaced and the same day they gave me a new one without checking the defective, that is super convenient if you don't have a second light.
As far for the new led the temps i have are similar, something that i had been warned from the company, with the old i had 78-86f and with this i have 79-84f. It's not the temps inside tent that determines a defective unit, they told me, but if you can touch the driver or not.
The driver at first day was very hot, i could touch it but with difficulty, at next two days, although the temp climb up by 35f the driver was cooler and It was more comfortable to the touch.
They suggest to upgrade to a 3.3x3.3 tent and also bigger exhaust fan, which is sound logical, but i'm a little worried if i would see a significant drop at temps.
As for the size of exhaust fan i asked 8 companies and they all gave me different answers. So far based from what they've told me for a 3.3x3.3 tent i need something between 117-412cfm
I thing 260cfm, with speed controller of course, will be ok to to cope with the high temperatures of greece.

 

[George75]

I want to ask something else, does the fabric of the tent play a role in temperatures? I currently use a tent with 600d fabric, if I buy a tent with 1680d, is there a chance that the temperature will rise due to the better insulation? Also, I read that tents with white lining are cooler by 7c than tents with silver (mylar) lining, is there anyone who can confirm this?

 

[George75]

I have a 300w attis pro and i can touch the driver.its hot but not extreme.and my fan is 200cfm but i keep it at 6 from 10.
Room temperature is 18c and tent is 20 °C

If you don't mind can you tell me the size of your tent?

 

[Blastfact]

when i told lumatek that the driver is very hot and i can't touch it after 30sec they told me it needs to be replaced and the same day they gave me a new one without checking the defective, that is super convenient if you don't have a second light.
As far for the new led the temps i have are similar, something that i had been warned from the company, with the old i had 78-86f and with this i have 79-84f. It's not the temps inside tent that determines a defective unit, they told me, but if you can touch the driver or not.
The driver at first day was very hot, i could touch it but with difficulty, at next two days, although the temp climb up by 35f the driver was cooler and It was more comfortable to the touch.
They suggest to upgrade to a 3.3x3.3 tent and also bigger exhaust fan, which is sound logical, but i'm a little worried if i would see a significant drop at temps.
As for the size of exhaust fan i asked 8 companies and they all gave me different answers. So far based from what they've told me for a 3.3x3.3 tent i need something between 117-412cfm
I thing 260cfm, with speed controller of course, will be ok to to cope with the high temperatures of greece.

The issue is the general public has to be dealt with at a very very simple level. Yeah if the driver is to hot there is a problem. And off the bat they are going to accept some responsibility. And more than likely warranty something one time. Then there is somebody like me and i'm going to know the driver is bad and have the proof. I'm going to check the voltage at the receptacle and panel. I'm going to know if I have a voltage drop depending on load,,, known as vdroop. I'm going to know what amperage the light is pulling at 0% dimmer, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% dimmer. I'm going to know what the output voltage is going to be going to the leds or whatever the device is I'm powering. And now that I have a Apogee PPFD meter I'm going to know what my efficiency is. So I can evaluate the issue at a technical level. If it's a failure in their product warranty it. If I had a issue on my end I can ask for a goodwill replacement or maybe a reduced price on replacement. And in worse case scenario if I ruined the unit. How much for a new unit. I've been on both sides of the desk as a consumer and manufacture rep. Knowledge and honesty always trump's stupidity and gamesmanship. As a manufacturer's rep in the boiler, chiller, pump, blower and controls world almost all issues in the end were caused by the customer. It truly was alarming how people can destroy stuff and then have the balls to try and claim warranty. And that's with so called professionals in the trades and craft. And I'm not saying you are the issue because quality is dropping like a rock with all the China/India production thats complete and total crap.

As for the blowers it does not matter how much air over all you run through the enclosure unless your blower is drastically undersized. You will never get the enclosure cooler than the air temp your running through it. If the heat load is 80f in your tent and you have a 78f supply/lung room temp your fan is going to run darn near 24/7 to keep the tent from heat soaking. Or short cycling if drastically over sized. And depending on your AC/Heating system you could heat soak your lung room or home. Why would anybody buy a exhaust or blower fan that needs to be ran at 100% full speed to move the needed air when one can generally buy the next bigger size and move the same amount of air and be quieter doing it. Same with lights. There is a basic formula one can use to figure up min light size at 100% on the dimmer. Screw that old rule. Buy a light that fits the enclosure size and you have more even light distribution from corner to corner and wall to wall. If it's a more powerful light so be it. There is no rule in the rule book thats says you have to run the dimmer wide open at 100%. Turn it down, drop the heat load and cut back on wear and tear on the light. Heat kills electronics. You don't drive your car with your foot on the floor everywhere you go. Why run your exhaust fan and light at 100% matted on the floor.

And as far as tent material and reflection. If you size your foot print correctly reflection means next to nothing. White is the best reflector by many measures. But if your counting on reflection to improve lighting your already screwed. Because light does not reflect well until you start approaching hot spots. Photons die quick and trying to count on reflection property's kill them quicker. Thicker tent martials don't have a better R value or reflection properties. They generally come with tents that have better stitching, better zippers, better tent poles and corner parts. Just a more heavy duty unit.

Good Luck!

 

[George75]

The issue is the general public has to be dealt with at a very very simple level. Yeah if the driver is to hot there is a problem. And off the bat they are going to accept some responsibility. And more than likely warranty something one time. Then there is somebody like me and i'm going to know the driver is bad and have the proof. I'm going to check the voltage at the receptacle and panel. I'm going to know if I have a voltage drop depending on load,,, known as vdroop. I'm going to know what amperage the light is pulling at 0% dimmer, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% dimmer. I'm going to know what the output voltage is going to be going to the leds or whatever the device is I'm powering. And now that I have a Apogee PPFD meter I'm going to know what my efficiency is. So I can evaluate the issue at a technical level. If it's a failure in their product warranty it. If I had a issue on my end I can ask for a goodwill replacement or maybe a reduced price on replacement. And in worse case scenario if I ruined the unit. How much for a new unit. I've been on both sides of the desk as a consumer and manufacture rep. Knowledge and honesty always trump's stupidity and gamesmanship. As a manufacturer's rep in the boiler, chiller, pump, blower and controls world almost all issues in the end were caused by the customer. It truly was alarming how people can destroy stuff and then have the balls to try and claim warranty. And that's with so called professionals in the trades and craft. And I'm not saying you are the issue because quality is dropping like a rock with all the China/India production thats complete and total crap.

As for the blowers it does not matter how much air over all you run through the enclosure unless your blower is drastically undersized. You will never get the enclosure cooler than the air temp your running through it. If the heat load is 80f in your tent and you have a 78f supply/lung room temp your fan is going to run darn near 24/7 to keep the tent from heat soaking. Or short cycling if drastically over sized. And depending on your AC/Heating system you could heat soak your lung room or home. Why would anybody buy a exhaust or blower fan that needs to be ran at 100% full speed to move the needed air when one can generally buy the next bigger size and move the same amount of air and be quieter doing it. Same with lights. There is a basic formula one can use to figure up min light size at 100% on the dimmer. Screw that old rule. Buy a light that fits the enclosure size and you have more even light distribution from corner to corner and wall to wall. If it's a more powerful light so be it. There is no rule in the rule book thats says you have to run the dimmer wide open at 100%. Turn it down, drop the heat load and cut back on wear and tear on the light. Heat kills electronics. You don't drive your car with your foot on the floor everywhere you go. Why run your exhaust fan and light at 100% matted on the floor.

And as far as tent material and reflection. If you size your foot print correctly reflection means next to nothing. White is the best reflector by many measures. But if your counting on reflection to improve lighting your already screwed. Because light does not reflect well until you start approaching hot spots. Photons die quick and trying to count on reflection property's kill them quicker. Thicker tent martials don't have a better R value or reflection properties. They generally come with tents that have better stitching, better zippers, better tent poles and corner parts. Just a more heavy duty unit.

Good Luck!

Thanks for this comprehensive info. Well, it's difficult to have a responsibility with the light that breaks down because the procedure is super easy you just plug in the light. Now, this led at 100% gives 310w if i dim it to 75% it runs at 235w and that means lower crop, why buy something strong and more expensive and dim it down, it doesn't make any sense, for the exhaust fan there is logic because of the lower noise but with led i don't understand it.
My temp house is at 64-68f and inside tent is 80-84f, that's a big difference so i believe with bigger tent and exhaust fan i will see a drop in temps but I don't know exactly how much.

 

[Blastfact]

Thanks for this comprehensive info. Well, it's difficult to have a responsibility with the light that breaks down because the procedure is super easy you just plug in the light. Now, this led at 100% gives 310w if i dim it to 75% it runs at 235w and that means lower crop, why buy something strong and more expensive and dim it down, it doesn't make any sense, for the exhaust fan there is logic because of the lower noise but with led i don't understand it.
My temp house is at 64-68f and inside tent is 80-84f, that's a big difference so i believe with bigger tent and exhaust fan i will see a drop in temps but I don't know exactly how much.

Enjoy your grow,,, rock and roll.

 

[George75]

Enjoy your grow,,, rock and roll.

Haha thank you. Well, cannabis makes me sleep like a baby the other solution is heavy sleeping pills with heavy side effects. Of course this is not the only reason, I enjoy it in every way.

 

[George75]

Update: I have problems with the second led also, the driver is very hot! The threshold to the previous one was 30s, this one is 1 minute, after that my hand gets really burn and i can't touch it.
But it isn't always the same, sometimes the driver is cooler and i can touch it more comfortably especially now that we have in greece a major drop in temp although the home temp is stable at 68f (20c)
The temps i have are also similar between 79-84f (26-29c) the previous was 78-86 (25.5-30c) with stable ambient temperature at 68f (20c) and i get the measurements slightly under canopy.
Is this the result that every product is being manufactures in china or maybe somekind of fraud from the store? They told me that they sold 150 leds without complains but mine was full of dust.
From my part i don't think there is something wrong with the current at my home. Every socket is grounded and the panel is relatively new. Also, I used to have an LED, much smaller than this, but it was very cool.
I'm very unlucky because i couldn't find not a single negative comment in the forums about this brand but for me it's becoming a nightmare.

 

[George75]

Hello guys, I don't believe the second LED is defective, that would be quite rare.
I found a solution: I use two fans (20W each) positioned above the light, directing airflow at an angle towards the driver. This setup reduces the temperature by 34f to 40f (1°C - 4°C), with an average decrease of 36.5f (2.5°C) and the driver is running super cool.
If i use only one fan the driver is very cool to the touch but it doesn't do anything to drop the temperature in the tent. I wonder, then, where all this heat is coming from?
With a house temperature of 68f (20°C), the temperature inside the tent reaches 77-79f (25-26°C), which is ideal for both the plants and the longevity of the light.
Thank you all for your help.

 

[HerbalEdu]

why buy something strong and more expensive and dim it down, it doesn't make any sense,

running leds lower than their max capacity enhance their lifetime.