Led Mag defic dont ya love it?

  • Thread starter Loopusmagpie2u
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Backyard_Boogie

Backyard_Boogie

730
143
I have a XXX OG cut that I just ran under my LED board and I had that exact same classic rust spotting on my leaves. The other strains had no problem under the same light with same nutrients. Funny thing is I ran that exact same cut outdoors and I just harvested those plants the day before yesterday. Exact same cut only outdoors instead and it came out looking sooooo much better and healthier. Its incredible what a difference it made this particular cut gives trouble indoors this has happened a few times now but man! It loves the outdoor sun. Im gonna exclusively run this cut outside from now on because of this.
 
growsince79

growsince79

6,775
313
I have a XXX OG cut that I just ran under my LED board and I had that exact same classic rust spotting on my leaves. The other strains had no problem under the same light with same nutrients. Funny thing is I ran that exact same cut outdoors and I just harvested those plants the day before yesterday. Exact same cut only outdoors instead and it came out looking sooooo much better and healthier. Its incredible what a difference it made this particular cut gives trouble indoors this has happened a few times now but man! It loves the outdoor sun. Im gonna exclusively run this cut outside from now on because of this.
Nothing beats the real thing for sure. I just gave my seedlings a few hours in the window and now the showing mag problems. Never happened to me before. Plants with lots of light need more nutes.
 
Mrb53

Mrb53

221
63
I know its a discussed topic non stop. Some people argue to death led doesnt cause the need for more mag. I also feel calmag is such a boy who cried wolf scenario. Cal/mag has been screamed so many times nobody would actually believe they had a calcium or magnesium problem if that was indeed the problem. I have ran tests and it is 1000% IMO and IME that Led dialed rooms need a lot of magnesium, strain specific. Here is a peanut butter breath the older growth is showing some deficiencies. I gave 0 magnesium supplement this first week after transplant and turned lights up to 400ppfd. The plant in 2 days had interveinal chlorosis within 5 days it turned necrotic. I then foliared magnesium and root drenched magnesium with my nutrient schedule and viola the new growth is lush and healthy. I should mention my soil slurry is right on point at 6.6ph 500ppm 1 day after a 1800ppm organic bottle feed at 6.4ph. My starting water is 140ppm 7.2ph. I added 7.5ml of mag amped/gallon in each feed these last few days. Hlg 600r 36” from canopy. Ppfd was raised from 300-400 over a weeks time. The older leaves were healthy before the light increase, you can see the middle of the damaged leaves are a nice green with a healthy vein.

Old growth pre mag supplements soon as I increased ppfd:
View attachment 1181906 View attachment 1181907 View attachment 1181911


Few days after supplementing magnesium.
View attachment 1181908 View attachment 1181909 View attachment 1181910
GREAT POST!
 
Anthem

Anthem

2,875
263
I have a XXX OG cut that I just ran under my LED board and I had that exact same classic rust spotting on my leaves. The other strains had no problem under the same light with same nutrients. Funny thing is I ran that exact same cut outdoors and I just harvested those plants the day before yesterday. Exact same cut only outdoors instead and it came out looking sooooo much better and healthier. Its incredible what a difference it made this particular cut gives trouble indoors this has happened a few times now but man! It loves the outdoor sun. Im gonna exclusively run this cut outside from now on because of this.
I believe it has to do with a few things. I run RO so I am forced to run Cal Mag because not only do I see Mag Problems but Also the rust and it is not so much strain dependent but I believe it has to do with spectrum as well. If you talk to someone that has grown exclusively under HPS they pretty much all say the same thing, no more that 5 mils per gallon. 5 mils per gallon just does not get it done for me in veg and the first 4 or 5 weeks of flower.
 
Fuckingatodeaso

Fuckingatodeaso

48
18
I weigh out jacks because it takes less time and is more accurate. Setting a 115g res is different than a 5 gallon bucket.
 
Backyard_Boogie

Backyard_Boogie

730
143
I believe it has to do with a few things. I run RO so I am forced to run Cal Mag because not only do I see Mag Problems but Also the rust and it is not so much strain dependent but I believe it has to do with spectrum as well. If you talk to someone that has grown exclusively under HPS they pretty much all say the same thing, no more that 5 mils per gallon. 5 mils per gallon just does not get it done for me in veg and the first 4 or 5 weeks of flower.
Yes I agree it has to do with the light. But I think that perhaps some strains might be more susceptible to it than others.
 
Anthem

Anthem

2,875
263
Yes I agree it has to do with the light. But I think that perhaps some strains might be more susceptible to it than others.
That is possible. I have ran these strains and if I lower it they all get it.
Ice Cream Cakes
Watermelon Gelato
Black Berry Moonshine
GMO
Sluricane
Meat Breath
Alien OG
Space Monkies
Spiked Punch
The flavors today are orange push pops and another we will not advertise
 
growsince79

growsince79

6,775
313
That is possible. I have ran these strains and if I lower it they all get it.
Ice Cream Cakes
Watermelon Gelato
Black Berry Moonshine
GMO
Sluricane
Meat Breath
Alien OG
Space Monkies
Spiked Punch
The flavors today are orange push pops and another we will not advertise
What you mean you can't give them 80000lux? LOL
 
Fuckingatodeaso

Fuckingatodeaso

48
18
If you weigh out each part, EC is the same every time. You don't even need a meter after confirming EC to weight. It's spot on every time. Stopped using the meter after dozens of res settings. I was like "Why are you checking it? You already know what it's going to be."
 
Mrb53

Mrb53

221
63
Did you see the Migro video where Shane puts his apogee meter beside one of the cheaper Lux meters? He does so with a few different lights, to show the conversion math between the meters is steady. I trust he would of also corrected the agogee meters reading, as they too are not good at reading LEDs but have an equally consistent conversion factor. They are all on the apogee site, showing they can be as much as 50% inaccurate. A fact that seems to escape people on youtube doing light tests. I have not seen a single one of them correct their readings appropriately. Making my use of Lux meter more accurate than their use of a fancy meter costing many times more.

If your maths is on point, it's worth watching. Essentially at 600ppfd the meter he used said 25,000 Lux. I have put that meter under lights where it said 25,000 Lux and then swapped it for the cheapest meter we can all get. The 10$ grey one with 4 buttons. It said 20,000 Lux under the 3000K+660 light I used.

Yes folks.. I did the work so you don't have to. The Cheap meter say 20,000 at 600ppfd.
It's actually linear to around 800ppdf. After which, you are watching your power consumption meters again. I plotted the lot.
HLG offer a conversion like 40,000 Lux is 600ppfd but I dunno what meter they used.
One take away from this, is that all lux meters don't work the same unless under sunlight.
Tech: Most meters are centered on green, but the bandwidth differs. So they are measuring the green light quota. With different amounts of rejection to other colours. So meters don't watch green though, they are centered on red. I'm guess the HLG meter measured red (40,000). The two I used measured green (20,000 + 25,000) but with different out of band rejection.



I'm really all about the kit, not the plants.


Edit: God damn it, I missed the point.
Epsom salt is 10% Mg and yes I weigh it. Tea spoons and gallons are not a recognised index system, and don't suit 10 base maths. It's a handicap. I want to tell you ppm of 2g or a teaspoon, but it's lost in the non scientific nature of these measuring systems. It's just hit and hope.
2g is real. Put that in 10L and you have a 20ppm solution. Look at the symmetry of the numbers there. Now try a teaspoon in a gallon. It's not even approachable. How many grams on your teaspoon, because you have to use Metric. Then who's gallon, as it's not an Si unit. So it can be turned to Liters. So you can do the ppm. Which is metric.
Non of us are so old that we didn't learn modern maths at school. So using antiquated measurements shows a desire to turn your back on growing science. To shove your hands in your pockets, then try and pick your nose with a street sign.

Meh!
You found one of my biggest gripes
Thanks, an enjoyable read and informative. But don't we have the same issue in measuinf ppm / ec - us readings, Eu readings....dang, too many standards. Either way, a ppm/ec is a much more accurate form of measurement

Getting back to your light meter......please indicate the METER or APP you use to measure. A good write is desirable on LED light settings...including identifying / specking out hardware / software used to attain proper results...thanks for not deleting it
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Supporter
21,622
638
I use this to convert. But let's all remember here.


All of these meters don't mean shit in the grand scheme of things for an individuals grow. They are needed for a ballpark for new growers. Professionals should be using top of the line for record purposes that are calibrated professionally using known standards by certified equipment. Let me explain why.

The lux, FC , par, quantum meters are all specific to basically the spectrum of light they measure and conversions can be done.

But how accurate it will be is dependent on the accuracy of the meter used to read and the calculations used to do so.

Factors that affect it.

1.The meter quality used and if calibrated to accurately measure the unit used.

Phones can be way off depending on the make and model.... like way off and should be calibrated to atleast an actual meter for the unti before use.

2. The proper conversion of the using measured to the units desired.

This is absolutely huge.. like mind blowingly huge.

Say lux on a blurple 30k lux on a blurple is around 2700 ppfd. When comparing to a 4000k high CRI at the same lux is around 500ppfd. Thus is because lux measure primarily green light.

Add to that par, lux, FC do not measure UV, or IR. So home growers meters don't matter and a ballpark is good enough because we have to read the plants anyways.

So why bother ????

Well because you want to collect information to have a reference point. You start the plants at 10 lux by your meter (that's accurate or even not accurate) and you now have a known measurement no matter it's accuracy that can be used adjust light intensity.

It doesn't matter if your reading 200ppf or 400ppfd and numbers do not dictate what a plant can handle... only the plant does.

Then by using the same measuring equipment you take notes and learn at what stages what numbers are ideal to maximize the light provided.

It also gives you an idea of what light intensity you want to be at in flower after a couple weeks of slowly increasing based on the change of hrs.

Eg. Going from 18/6 to 12/12 after the first couple weeks you will want to have reached 1/3 more than you did in under 18/6 to provide the same DLI because you have reduced your light duration by 1/3 you want to increase the intensity by the same to roughly get tk where you know they will be maxed.

It's a tool and not a rule is what I'm saying. As long as you get a measurement that you can adjust and record to make adjustments the unit of measurement doesn't matter at a home grower level.

Now when you start speaking of manipulations with UV, far red and IR then that's a ballgame you want to have a quantum meter so you are truly able to read what's coming out.
 
Moshmen

Moshmen

Staff
Supporter
5,871
313
I use this to convert. But let's all remember here.


All of these meters don't mean shit in the grand scheme of things for an individuals grow. They are needed for a ballpark for new growers. Professionals should be using top of the line for record purposes that are calibrated professionally using known standards by certified equipment. Let me explain why.

The lux, FC , par, quantum meters are all specific to basically the spectrum of light they measure and conversions can be done.

But how accurate it will be is dependent on the accuracy of the meter used to read and the calculations used to do so.

Factors that affect it.

1.The meter quality used and if calibrated to accurately measure the unit used.

Phones can be way off depending on the make and model.... like way off and should be calibrated to atleast an actual meter for the unti before use.

2. The proper conversion of the using measured to the units desired.

This is absolutely huge.. like mind blowingly huge.

Say lux on a blurple 30k lux on a blurple is around 2700 ppfd. When comparing to a 4000k high CRI at the same lux is around 500ppfd. Thus is because lux measure primarily green light.

Add to that par, lux, FC do not measure UV, or IR. So home growers meters don't matter and a ballpark is good enough because we have to read the plants anyways.

So why bother ????

Well because you want to collect information to have a reference point. You start the plants at 10 lux by your meter (that's accurate or even not accurate) and you now have a known measurement no matter it's accuracy that can be used adjust light intensity.

It doesn't matter if your reading 200ppf or 400ppfd and numbers do not dictate what a plant can handle... only the plant does.

Then by using the same measuring equipment you take notes and learn at what stages what numbers are ideal to maximize the light provided.

It also gives you an idea of what light intensity you want to be at in flower after a couple weeks of slowly increasing based on the change of hrs.

Eg. Going from 18/6 to 12/12 after the first couple weeks you will want to have reached 1/3 more than you did in under 18/6 to provide the same DLI because you have reduced your light duration by 1/3 you want to increase the intensity by the same to roughly get tk where you know they will be maxed.

It's a tool and not a rule is what I'm saying. As long as you get a measurement that you can adjust and record to make adjustments the unit of measurement doesn't matter at a home grower level.

Now when you start speaking of manipulations with UV, far red and IR then that's a ballgame you want to have a quantum meter so you are truly able to read what's coming out.
I use a cheap meter just like this ! I know the numbers are not correct but they give me a base line- the plant will tell me the rest .
 

Similar threads

Forester
Replies
14
Views
702
Jethrowfromdethrow
Jethrowfromdethrow
Fro5ty
Replies
10
Views
315
Fro5ty
Fro5ty
J
Replies
8
Views
198
Jbricks69
J
HumbleTie1321
Replies
5
Views
317
Ponky
Ponky
C
Replies
20
Views
490
CTABB83
CTABB83
Top Bottom