sixstring said:

15 cxb @ 1050ma would be around 525w but you can use just 3 drivers in this setup.mw 185-1050
16 cxb @ 1400ma would be around 795w and would take 4 drivers using mw 185-1400
you last combo of 12 @ 1400ma gets you real close to 600w.but yeah there are alot of driver combos to get you there.those big hlg 320 are pricey.everyones got there own reasons for choosing drivers.i chose the 1050 ma because with 5 cxb's im using just about 100% of the drivers power and the eff% is up there around 60% maybe 64% i cant remember lol.
i think the 1400ma drivers put you around 56% maybe 54% still really good and more power.but i just wanted to build my shit to last forever,so i used 1050ma and also 140mm x 70mm heat sinks. i coulda used smaller sinks but again if every fan in my room took a shit my lights would still be fine.

Click to expand...

@sixstring has used the electrical efficiency as a factor for CXB3590 Driver choice.
CXB3590 COB @ 1050ma - HLG-185H-C1050B driver.

I choose 300 watts as a Target, and extended that to a maximum of 350 watts because of efficiency and number of COB in this combination , although it is yet to be determined the best wattage and number combination for the project.

Accepting conservative specs and company inconsistencies;
I would like input to find similar electrical sweet spot from the Citizen CLU058 and Driver combinations as a starting point, before discussing the final spacing or wattage that LED's would need to be driven for project.

Damn the bell,
Moo

Toaster79 said:

CLU058-1825

Click to expand...

The CLU058-1825 at 80 Watts, is said to be more efficient then CXB3590 at 50 Watts.
Could I use 2x Mean Well HLP-80H-54 driver for 4 CLU058-1825 at 80 Watts?


I also see a discussion about suitable holder, and a statement that the holder is not required?
Have I got this right, any advice to help?

HLP-80H-54 is an 80w driver with nominal voltage of 54V and current of 1.5A.

CLU058-1825 has nominal voltage of 52V.

If you want to drive 2x 1825 of a single HLP-80H-54 you need to wire 1825 parallel so each would run at 40W as the current splits between the two.

Did you have a look at datasheets?

You don't need holders if you screw COBs directly to the heatsink. In this case do the soldering prior to mounting as you will need at least 100W soldering iron to solder those wires once mounted. It's royal pain in the ass, believe me.

Toaster79 said:

HLP-80H-54 is an 80w driver with nominal voltage of 54V and current of 1.5A.

CLU058-1825 has nominal voltage of 52V.

If you want to drive 2x 1825 of a single HLP-80H-54 you need to wire 1825 parallel so each would run at 40W as the current splits between the two.

Did you have a look at datasheets?

You don't need holders if you screw COBs directly to the heatsink. In this case do the soldering prior to mounting as you will need at least 100W soldering iron to solder those wires once mounted. It's royal pain in the ass, believe me.

Click to expand...

No, just copy and pasted the info from a thread. I have mad cow disease from trawling forum threads!

Yes, it can be difficult to solder objects that absorb a lot of heat. Any difficulty adhering, using standard flux-core solder or a separate flux?
-
I am weighing a lot of options, one would include running 2 180CLU 1825 at 52v 80 watts each.
What driver would you recommend?

The idea was to run 4 CXB3590 at 50 watt slightly lower each side of 180CLU 1825's.
I was playing with the idea of Parabola with the COB's built in.
This idea might get buried before the start line, but happy to here your thoughts.
-

The simplest option might be to drive 5X 180CLU 1825's with a HLG-320H.
There seems to be a few options in 304 watt vrs 320 with or without out the adjustable voltage pot.
Not sure how this pans with performance and complexity with adjustable voltage pot?
What would you use?

My tray 90 cm x 85 cm is less then 3 foot square.
5 x 180CLU 1825 could give me up around 3300 PPFD.

With regards to the 2x 180CLU 1825 in Parabola thought?
The Parabola has two aluminum cradles made from Long 50x3mm straps formed to shape, and 25x2mm Angle.
Just mention this, because it is extremely easy to lock COB's to the exact profile!

If the CXB3590 were used on the side 300mm from center they would be about 150mm lower then top 180CLU 1825's. The best spot for these side COB's would be at least 350 mm from center, which would make them 200mm lower then 180CLU 1825's.

I would need to run the 4x CXB3590 @ 1050ma, to prevent bleaching from lower COB's.
Just my thoughts.

The 5x 180CLU 1825 system is looking pretty good, that way I can leave the old HPS Parabola as is.

AvidLerner said:

Timber has a 300w kit here starting at $529-> peace
Avid

Click to expand...

Decided on 5*clu058 1825 on HLG-320H-48A driver (with Adj Pot).
I have some aluminum angle and channel on hand for a frame.
Thinking light weight, portable with adjustable length from center cob!

Is there a standout or popular choice in Lens/Reflector and there available angles?
I have some Mylar, if a DIY option can be fashioned. In the dark until I light up a COB.

Keep in mind I am just copy and pasting info from forums to get some feedback from others.
I have not seen any of this equipment yet, but you can bet I will be a know it all boof-head after. :)

---

On a matter of interest, for future reference:
I am making the assumption that peak efficiency is based on nominal voltage.
What would you use for efficient drivers for:
4x CXB3590 @1050ma.
And 2x clu058 1825 @ 70 or 80watts.
Not sure of all the options, and if members might have looked into these ratio.

I have gone through a lot of threads and downloaded a few data sheets to read.
Hope the forum can narrow things down a bit.

Horto
AKA Cow.

This is from the French site: cannaweed.com
Doityourself Guide - Mount its own high-power LED board (COB)

I translated with Chrome and saved to PDF for an offline guide. (Limited connection and bandwidth!)

AvidLerner said:

Timber has a 300w kit here starting at $529-> peace
Avid

Click to expand...

My second COB and driver combination in the 300-360W range.
The idea was to use the different COB's at there efficient wattage.

Chosen Drivers
150W (4x CXB3590)
2x HLG 185 1050A (199.5W 525 ~ 1050mA)
CONSTANT CURRENT REGION 95 ~ 190V

160W (2x CLU 1825)
2x HLP-80H-54 (81W 525 ~ 1050mA)
CONSTANT CURRENT REGION 32.4 ~ 54V
VOLTAGE ADJ. RANGE 49 ~ 58V

Total = 310w.
Does this look right?
-----------------------------------

Looking at 90 ° Lens or reflectors in belief it could be advantageous to focus light for better penetration, open to suggestions for types and supplier?

Also, I had not noticed the CXB3590 is available in 36 and 72 volt.
Is there a preference for efficiency, or to keep in step with new COB's with the driver?

CLU 1825 (52 volt only?)

Horto

looks good. I go with the 36v cxb's more flexible for more drivers. peace

If you're mounting your drivers remotely and using 3590, go with the 72V version so the wiring can be longer and losses smaller on the DC end.

As for the 1825, I'd push it somewhere around 100W. Keep in mind that is a 364W beast we're talking about. This way you'll gain more penetration and lower build costs without loosing noticeable efficacy.

I run my CXB3070s at 2100mA which makes somewhere between 60 and 70W. Never actually bothered to measure the actual power across the COB.

AvidLerner said:

looks good. I go with the 36v cxb's more flexible for more drivers. peace

Click to expand...

Hi, AvidLerner. I came to a similar conclusion regarding flexibility, unless COB's can be wired Parallel or in series with different COB's on the same driver/s. The scattered data on drivers, codes, number of outputs or COB's in parallel is doing my head in. I am trying to avoid COB's in Parallel unless there is a good reason beyond a few dollars. It is one of those things were you absorb the dictionary to find a few words, and why I joined the forum.

Thanks for checking the info.

Toaster79 said:

If you're mounting your drivers remotely and using 3590, go with the 72V version so the wiring can be longer and losses smaller on the DC end.

Click to expand...

This is a very good point, make for far better design.

Toaster79 said:

As for the 1825, I'd push it somewhere around 100W. Keep in mind that is a 364W beast we're talking about. This way you'll gain more penetration and lower build costs without loosing noticeable efficacy.

Click to expand...

I understand your reasons for running 1825 at 100W, this would give you more penetration at lower build cost.

Looking at the question in general, many people start with recommended intensity across Tray, then density/intensity number of COB's.
Which is a very good way to design a COB system.

My requirements and plan is a little different.
I have around 320 watts of energy available, initial outlay is not a concern with the current options!

Given the need of penetration, there are currently two standout COB's for "intensity across the Tray".
I am interested in the intensity/density combination of COB's within around 320W systems, and decided to use 5x 1825. Please do not take this to mean everything is set in stone, I would like to tease this out further.

Increasing the 1825 to 100W each would require 500W in total or the use of only 3x 1825 COB for a 300W system.

My 400W HPS parabola has about twice the penetration available from COB.
I say this, because the flower size, weight and density are very similar to the same plant outdoors. (Shocked Me!).

I do not say this is accurate, but lets say we have a single COB with half the penetration of my HPS.
Measuring from the center, the HPS is 2ocm from the top of plant, with another 50cm of penetration.
To reach across the Tray the HPS is 50cm from top of plant, with around 28cm of penetration at side of tray.

So we simple put COB's off center, the trade between the number of COB's per area and their individual penetration is critical to good design.

--------------------

What I have found extremely interesting, is my HPS parabola bleaches leaves without significant heat.
This suggests bleaching is caused by a combination of conditions that could include light spectrum, plenty of fresh air and avoiding hot spots helps.

When you hear of COB's needing 30 or 40 cm to avoid bleaching, even if the penetration is better for a single COB, it has to be a consideration based on the Tray size as with HPS.

Thank you for your discussion, I would like more people to weigh in.

Horto

Forgot to include: Dimmers.

Reducing the load with a dimmer, degrades driver performance.
With my Wattage limitation, I want to minimize the use of dimmers.
Where you otherwise, wouldn't worry about the loss!

A Question for anyone!
What Distance you can safely place COB from the foliage directly beneath?
For two separate systems:

1/ 5x 180CLU 1825 COB’s @1255ma = 320 -400 watts.
64W or 80Watts a COB

2/ 5x CXB3590 COB’s @1050ma = 320 watts.
40watts per COB

(Assuming the use of a fan across the top of plants)

If you have one of these systems I would be very interested what height you use them.
The difference with spacing of COB's is not going to mater for this question.

Don’t offer your system height from plants if using UV or Ir

depending on your spread of light. 12" to 18' is average use range. For veg it is a little higher, and lower wattage. If you are running 1050mA then 50% dimming is good for vegging. Have you considered a MW -SE250-48 48v power supply for 3w leds separate from your led drivers? peace

AvidLerner said:

depending on your spread of light. 12" to 18' is average use range. For veg it is a little higher, and lower wattage. If you are running 1050mA then 50% dimming is good for vegging. Have you considered a MW -SE250-48 48v power supply for 3w leds separate from your led drivers? peace

Click to expand...

At 12" (30cm) is more then the (20cm) I need with 400watt HPS, this is where I need a lot more input from people on the forum. If correct I cannot see LEDS coming close to HPS.

Forgot to mention that I am making this system only for flowering.

No, just done a search for SE series and found SE-200 and SE-350.
There is a S 250-48, Lifecycle is listed as obsolete.
Doesn't seem to be commonly available through eBay, but still listed with some suppliers.

I might not be familiar with the 3w LED's for 48v.
Is this a newer LED such as some specialized 10watt LED's.
What can you tell me about performance against 1825 or 3590, or is it made for a higher single COB output then 1825?

Horto said:

A Question for anyone!
What Distance you can safely place COB from the foliage directly beneath?
For two separate systems:

1/ 5x 180CLU 1825 COB’s @1255ma = 320 -400 watts.
64W or 80Watts a COB

2/ 5x CXB3590 COB’s @1050ma = 320 watts.
40watts per COB

(Assuming the use of a fan across the top of plants)

If you have one of these systems I would be very interested what height you use them.
The difference with spacing of COB's is not going to mater for this question.

Don’t offer your system height from plants if using UV or Ir

Click to expand...

i run my 35w cobs @ 18 to 20" above the canopy and my 75w cobs are about 24 inches up and no sig of bleaching at all.

sixstring said:

i run my 35w cobs @ 18 to 20" above the canopy and my 75w cobs are about 24 inches up and no sig of bleaching at all.

Click to expand...

Are these the distances for your COB's and their Wattage for Flowering, just to confirm as I am only interested in LED's for flowering.

Thanks, for your input.

yes flowering ,best pic i have that shows distance from cob to cola.thats a 18inch wall fan

Thank you for all the input.

This is a pretty serous project for me, which started because of Multiple Sclerosis.
My interest in the forum, is to investigate LED's to replace a 400HPS parabola.
If LED's can grow the equivalent in dense flowers, we are comparing on pretty equal grounds.

I have not done any calculations on cost because it is largely irrelevant.
I can invest $600 or so in parts.

COB's or LED,s have the advantage of being light and maneuverable.
The Parabola has a single light, "Dispersion point".
Light is reflected into straight lines, to an opening.
The more you reduce this opening, the stronger the Light.

The same principles can be apply to LED or COB, by changing the design for focal level.
Positioning of COB, and parabolic design would be a little different.

I have enough information on COB types and performance!
-

The choice is to go with 5 1825 COB at 320Watt Total.

Or,

A combination of 2x 1825 @ 80W,
And 4x 3590 @ 40.
320W Total for a modified parabola.

I am confident with either choice, but need as much information as possible about minimum level before Bleaching for 1825 at 80w. And the 3590 at 40W.


Thanks
Horto