Lets see your 2020 Outdoor Plants!

[shaganja]

View attachment 1033588View attachment 1033589View attachment 1033590View attachment 1033591View attachment 1033592View attachment 1033593View attachment 1033594View attachment 1033595View attachment 1033596

Wow. Great work on this plant!

 

[frebo]

Alls I know is I started with synthetics... I then tried to use both synthetic and organic...then I tried just 100% organically grown living soil. No comparison and wont look back...
To each their own tho. :)

I am stuck in the middle where you were. I am using Fox Farms products on their schedule but in between feedings I make teas in veg with molasses, Bokashi, kelp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, Alaska Fish Emulsion, worm castings, humic, and maybe more. In flower I drop the fish and alfalfa meal and go with high phosphorus guano. BUT, I have already bought

this cover crop seed for late fall. And Fava Beans and Daikon Radish seed for spring.

 

[Frankster]

9/9 snow. 9/20. Jack Flash #5. Still doing great!

wow, just wow. That's impressive.

 

[Frankster]

I am stuck in the middle where you were. I am using Fox Farms products on their schedule but in between feedings I make teas in veg with molasses, Bokashi, kelp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, Alaska Fish Emulsion, worm castings, humic, and maybe more. In flower I drop the fish and alfalfa meal and go with high phosphorus guano. BUT, I have already boughtView attachment 1033620this cover crop seed for late fall. And Fava Beans and Daikon Radish seed for spring.

So your composting your soil, prepping it? nice. I've got some land up in the cascades and the soil is perfect for something like this, I planted some mix last year, but not cannabis specific, I need to get some of this up there for in the spring, thanks for posting.

 

[shaganja]

I am stuck in the middle where you were. I am using Fox Farms products on their schedule but in between feedings I make teas in veg with molasses, Bokashi, kelp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, Alaska Fish Emulsion, worm castings, humic, and maybe more. In flower I drop the fish and alfalfa meal and go with high phosphorus guano. BUT, I have already boughtView attachment 1033620this cover crop seed for late fall. And Fava Beans and Daikon Radish seed for spring.

Picked this up in the spring. Had to chop them back twice so wouldn't be taller than my plants! Loving the companion planting!

 

[thcolin]

Wow. Great work on this plant!

Thanks! The 4th pic is a different plant but the rest are all the same plant. The other two seem to be quite a bit behind but weather looks ok coming up.

 

[Frankster]

Picked this up in the spring. Had to chop them back twice so wouldn't be taller than my plants! Loving the companion planting!

So not only good base, but it's also provides cover as well?

 

[Frankster]

I am stuck in the middle where you were. I am using Fox Farms products on their schedule but in between feedings I make teas in veg with molasses, Bokashi, kelp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, Alaska Fish Emulsion, worm castings, humic, and maybe more. In flower I drop the fish and alfalfa meal and go with high phosphorus guano. BUT, I have already boughtView attachment 1033620this cover crop seed for late fall. And Fava Beans and Daikon Radish seed for spring.

I think I'm going this route and getting 25 lb of it. Several clovers, vetch and radish, I did a few pounds this year, but I want to do at least 1/2 an acre or more. (over 10 acres up there) 25lb for $85

Looks like a few cedars are coming down, so I can make some insta foxfarms soil on my land. Then cover it with this. This will stop the soil erosion also, very cool. I've got a small field up on the far end, maybe just widen it, and plant this kind of seed. Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations

Damn, I could take down a few acres and do this all along the steam bed, hmmm. My biggest issue is the land is on a hillside, and I want to prevent soil erosion along the stream bed, (it's a problem for the whole area) if I go that route, because it gets several feet of snow every year. Planting would stabilize the land in a big way, plus I would have control over what is growing.

Here's a pic of the land. Think this could be converted for growing purpose?

GARDEN COVER CROP MIX SEEDS - BLEND: HAIRY VETCH, CRIMSON CLOVER, DAIKON RADISH | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for GARDEN COVER CROP MIX SEEDS - BLEND: HAIRY VETCH, CRIMSON CLOVER, DAIKON RADISH at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[SinCity]

We'll I'm not a bio-chemist (not trying to misrepresent myself) I have a biochem background (1 year) and 3 years of organic, inorganic and general chemistry (all college level). I also have a year of microbiology. (2 semesters) I've got an RN degree, and was planning to become a nurse practitioner (APRN) which takes the same level courses of say a medical doctor, a pharmacist, or perhaps masters level MA. A biochemist is much more in depth, for certain, and would have taken those classes and even more. Probably shouldn't be even saying this, actually. (kinda pins down who I am).

That said, to each their own, and certainly everything can be done with a simple 6 pack of nutrients, and I suppose many do. That doesn't change the fact that there's many different ways to grow, and for me, growing organically has been far easier than growing chemically, but as I stated before, I tend to do a bit of a hybrid of them, staying in neither camp, I use what works, period. Also, some of them won't probably use a salt when it's needed, because they have this ignorant "preconception" it's not "organic", which it absolutely is....

I suppose a lot of people have problems with organics because of the sheer complexity too it, there's far more organic choices than inorganic ones, and all of them come with certain caveats, strengths and weaknesses, or perhaps even cross over's. Salts are likely more simple and straght forward for the newer guy, but people like sub-cool made it really easy to figure out..

Also, for me, I've got over 10 acres of land in the Cascades, with tons of thick rainforest soil, and glacial dust, even a glacial creek. I have plans in the spring, and learning this well will serve me for years to come. I don't want to have to tend something that's 50 miles away twice a week, because I'm using organic salts only, that's just not feasible, or realistic, whatsoever.

I've been growing thousands of seeds because I have a plan in mind. I think we just are thinking along two different ways of doing something, and you've got a little more specialized approach, perhaps. Just because someone don't have a bunch of letters after there name, doesn't mean shit with cannabis. I've got a friend who's been doing it for almost 40 years, and nothing else. He's a freaking genius in my eyes, but he see's me smart in the more traditional sense, I suppose.

Just as your calling me "organic" my wife handed me these from the mail.

I agree that intelligence and expertise come in all shapes and sizes--and people are educated in all sorts of ways, in all sorts of 'schools'. In fact, in my experience, academic intelligence pales in comparison to other kinds of intelligence. But we all have our strengths and our weaknesses--and we all bring something to the team. I happen to be the academic, science-y type. We are intermittently useful. So I applaud your interest in biochemistry and ecological cycles. Please keep studying. Because currently, you're way off base.

First, you need to go back and correct your definitions of organic chemistry and inorganic chemistry. Then you need to get a more informed understanding of the facts and fictions involved in what different people think 'organic' and 'inorganic' growing is. While of course these things are all related, they have very distinct meanings.

If you are going to study biochemistry, you need to learn--well--chemistry.
And biology. And ecology. And how it all works together.
I have a suggestion for one way to get you back on track in your learning process. Start with learning the chemical pathways of the cycling of a single element--like Nitrogen--through ecological systems at multiple scales. When dead plants and animals (which are the eventual source of Nitrogen in 'organic' gardening) decompose, the element Nitrogen is converted into inorganic chemical compounds such as ammonium salts. This happens through a chemical process called mineralization. The ammonium salts are absorbed onto clay in the soil and then chemically altered by bacteria into nitrite and then nitrate (the various types of mycorrhizal fungi come into play in other ways). Nitrate is the form most commonly used by plants. 'Inorganic' gardening, like 'organic' gardening, BOTH require the inorganic chemical called nitrate (again, because this is the chemical form plants are able to uptake). 'Organic' nutrients take alot longer to break down into the inorganic salts and inorganic forms of nitrogen, while 'inorganic' nutrients--sometimes termed 'synthetic' and often BUT NOT ALWAYS derived from petrochemicals--are delivering the already broken down form of Nitrogen.

From there you can start to see how biochemistry can guide you through different mediums and light sources and amount of veg time (among other things). I'm just learning about outdoor growing the past few years, and I still don't know how outdoor growers can stand not knowing if their nutrients are even chemically broken down enough to be available to the plant--i go crazy not knowing how much the outdoor plants are actually getting fed, aka how much of what is in the soil and how much of what is in the 'tea'. And don't get me started on ratios.

At the same time, I step back and let my outdoor grow partner lead the way because he gets results and I've only ever had experience with indoor. But he ain't allowed near my rooms as i make my slow but sure transition back inside.

Apologies everyone, but I couldn't take it anymore.

 

[SinCity]

I am stuck in the middle where you were. I am using Fox Farms products on their schedule but in between feedings I make teas in veg with molasses, Bokashi, kelp meal, bat guano, alfalfa meal, Alaska Fish Emulsion, worm castings, humic, and maybe more. In flower I drop the fish and alfalfa meal and go with high phosphorus guano. BUT, I have already boughtView attachment 1033620this cover crop seed for late fall. And Fava Beans and Daikon Radish seed for spring.

@frebo i like you more and more. i'm going to keep being a little bit mouthy because you teed this up perfectly. @Frankster -- these are legumes. Legumes and nitrogen-fixing bacteria are key to biogeochemistry. It's also part of the reason I am so scared of overfeeding the outdoor crop.

 

[SinCity]

I think I'm going this route and getting 25 lb of it. Several clovers, vetch and radish, I did a few pounds this year, but I want to do at least 1/2 an acre or more. (over 10 acres up there) 25lb for $85

Looks like a few cedars are coming down, so I can make some insta foxfarms soil on my land. Then cover it with this. This will stop the soil erosion also, very cool. I've got a small field up on the far end, maybe just widen it, and plant this kind of seed. Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations

Damn, I could take down a few acres and do this all along the steam bed, hmmm. My biggest issue is the land is on a hillside, and I want to prevent soil erosion along the stream bed, (it's a problem for the whole area) if I go that route, because it gets several feet of snow every year. Planting would stabilize the land in a big way, plus I would have control over what is growing.

Here's a pic of the land. Think this could be converted for growing purpose?

GARDEN COVER CROP MIX SEEDS - BLEND: HAIRY VETCH, CRIMSON CLOVER, DAIKON RADISH | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for GARDEN COVER CROP MIX SEEDS - BLEND: HAIRY VETCH, CRIMSON CLOVER, DAIKON RADISH at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

so, you're going to deforest the larger living system? clearcutting slopes for agriculture, and then replicating the living soil you just fucked up? if you clear those trees, you'll destabilize the slopes. cover crop won't prevent erosion in time. the type of forest ecosystems in the Cascades have very thin soils, and it will slide right into the stream bed if you clear that area. along with all your runoff--and we know what high Nitrogen levels do to algae levels in water, right?

 

[Greatlakes]

I agree that intelligence and expertise come in all shapes and sizes--and people are educated in all sorts of ways, in all sorts of 'schools'. In fact, in my experience, academic intelligence pales in comparison to other kinds of intelligence. But we all have our strengths and our weaknesses--and we all bring something to the team. I happen to be the academic, science-y type. We are intermittently useful. So I applaud your interest in biochemistry and ecological cycles. Please keep studying. Because currently, you're way off base.

First, you need to go back and correct your definitions of organic chemistry and inorganic chemistry. Then you need to get a more informed understanding of the facts and fictions involved in what different people think 'organic' and 'inorganic' growing is. While of course these things are all related, they have very distinct meanings.

If you are going to study biochemistry, you need to learn--well--chemistry.
And biology. And ecology. And how it all works together.
I have a suggestion for one way to get you back on track in your learning process. Start with learning the chemical pathways of the cycling of a single element--like Nitrogen--through ecological systems at multiple scales. When dead plants and animals (which are the eventual source of Nitrogen in 'organic' gardening) decompose, the element Nitrogen is converted into inorganic chemical compounds such as ammonium salts. This happens through a chemical process called mineralization. The ammonium salts are absorbed onto clay in the soil and then chemically altered by bacteria into nitrite and then nitrate (the various types of mycorrhizal fungi come into play in other ways). Nitrate is the form most commonly used by plants. 'Inorganic' gardening, like 'organic' gardening, BOTH require the inorganic chemical called nitrate (again, because this is the chemical form plants are able to uptake). 'Organic' nutrients take alot longer to break down into the inorganic salts and inorganic forms of nitrogen, while 'inorganic' nutrients--sometimes termed 'synthetic' and often BUT NOT ALWAYS derived from petrochemicals--are delivering the already broken down form of Nitrogen.

From there you can start to see how biochemistry can guide you through different mediums and light sources and amount of veg time (among other things). I'm just learning about outdoor growing the past few years, and I still don't know how outdoor growers can stand not knowing if their nutrients are even chemically broken down enough to be available to the plant--i go crazy not knowing how much the outdoor plants are actually getting fed, aka how much of what is in the soil and how much of what is in the 'tea'. And don't get me started on ratios.

At the same time, I step back and let my outdoor grow partner lead the way because he gets results and I've only ever had experience with indoor. But he ain't allowed near my rooms as i make my slow but sure transition back inside.

Apologies everyone, but I couldn't take it anymore.

View attachment 1033714

And she busts out the dick pic lmao
Beautiful!

 

[Greatlakes]

I'm with you on the living part for sure, I just think there's something to be gleaned from using "some salts" toward the end of the haul. Start out with an completely organic setup, then as the plant enters it's last stages, add the salt's as needed to "optimize" the finish.

Maybe it can be done entirely organic, I'm not saying it can't be, but I've certainly not done it at that level quite yet, but I've only been trying my hand at organics for a little while now, (less than a year) before then, I used almost entirely synthetic. (for years), so I'm certainly not an expert by any means. Just trying my hand at a new type of grow, that's all.

Certainly, getting the mix just right, should be a key component.

I am in no way saying what you are doing is wrong and I am in no way saying that I know everything, however what I do know comes from yrs of experience and that is worth a lot.
I know a lot of people use your methods but the way I look at it is pretty simple. Organics doesn't need those big number nutrients to produce big quality yields from synthetic ferts. If you mix your soil right all the nutrients will already be broke down and available to the plant by the time flowering starts.
In fact adding those high number synthetic can work against you causing lock out if other nutrients.
Like I said to each their own...

P.s. I did an experiment with a plant. It was grown in one of my boxes with my living soil. It was not fed anything and if it did not rain it did not get watered. The only thing I did was support it so the wind didnt break it.

 

[Frankster]

so, you're going to deforest the larger living system? clearcutting slopes for agriculture, and then replicating the living soil you just fucked up? if you clear those trees, you'll destabilize the slopes. cover crop won't prevent erosion in time. the type of forest ecosystems in the Cascades have very thin soils, and it will slide right into the stream bed if you clear that area. along with all your runoff--and we know what high Nitrogen levels do to algae levels in water, right?

Clearly, that would be a shame, and no, I'm not intending to clear cut a mountian side as your crazily suggesting. I won't "clear cut" anything. But I certainly might expand some of the field that's already present on my land, and use good ground coverage to help stabilize the area. Dude, you really need to chill out, and maybe smoke a joint or something, your really seem to be reaching for controversy. That's not the point of these forums, I don't believe.

What I choose to do, or not to do with something I personally own, is a decision I get to make, and to figuring out. That's how the world works. I've got over 12 acres of land, 1/8 of a mile in one direction, and 1/4 of a mile in another, down to the river, and a creek running though it. If I decide I want to clear a half acre of my own property, or perhaps an entire acre for that matter, it's ENTIRELY mine to do, whatever the consequences may be. That said, I'm a little of a tree hugger myself, and I won't be cutting many of the old growth trees on my property, no. Some are perhaps 3 meters round and 60 meters tall, some are several hundred years old. I'm actually looking to put much of it into a trust, and/or offer it up to a reservation for conservation. (and to prohibit a hydroelectric dam from occuring) This land is extremely special, of that I am already, well aware.

That's why it's called a free country. If I want to hunt, fish, or whatever, or build a cabin out of the woods. I've even got wild cougars and bear in this area. Ultimately, it's up for me to investigate and figure out. I'm simply weighing my options. I have flat, and sloped property, it's not hillside, as you have implied. Troll me some more.

 

[Frankster]

I am in no way saying what you are doing is wrong and I am in no way saying that I know everything, however what I do know comes from yrs of experience and that is worth a lot.
I know a lot of people use your methods but the way I look at it is pretty simple. Organics doesn't need those big number nutrients to produce big quality yields from synthetic ferts. If you mix your soil right all the nutrients will already be broke down and available to the plant by the time flowering starts.
In fact adding those high number synthetic can work against you causing lock out if other nutrients.
Like I said to each their own...

P.s. I did an experiment with a plant. It was grown in one of my boxes with my living soil. It was not fed anything and if it did not rain it did not get watered. The only thing I did was support it so the wind didnt break it.

I couldn't agree more with what you've stated here. That stated, when were comparing indoor grows with outdoor grows it like apples and oranges, especially if the outdoor plant is in the ground. The timing is much different, the "INTENISTY" of the lighting is much different. It's not just about the soil, but all the conditions, mainly lighting intensity being the same at the base of the plant, than at the tip of the plant, and the relative time the plant is actually growing. Again, apples and oranges.

As for "your methods" I have no real specific methods. That's my exact point all along here, I'm constantly trying new methods, because I WANT to learn new things. I've done hydro, I've done synthetics, I've done coco, and soil, and drain tables, and DWC, and circulation pumps, I've done a few greenhouse grows, and lots of small rooms. I want to learn or do something different, and for me, that next step is going to involve some sort of outdoor type grow, just trying to get a plan sorted before the spring. Personally, if I can do it with all living soil, that's all the better, because I want something that's going to be low maintenance, and do it's thing on it's own, that would be great.


However, I guess, if someone took a bunch of multiples of HPS lights, (an array of them) or high powered LED's, and put them all around a single plant indoors, with 20 foot ceilings, and 9 or 12 months of growing time, they could possibly replicate the results your holding in your hand. (20 foot hydro anyone?) Not exactly, but probably just as big. (but I would fail to understand the principle of such an exercise), as it would be a total waste of efficiency. (apples and oranges). I guess don't see things though a single lens, I think that's part of the difference I'm at odd's with here, I think there's a lot of different ways to skin a cat..

Kudos by the way, that's a hella donky dick ya got there.

 

[Thurmsb1]

Purple Trainwreck 2020

 

[Dartmouth.Dank]

just curious how people determine how far apart to put their plants/trees so that they don't shade one another

 

[Rooke]

I am in no way saying what you are doing is wrong and I am in no way saying that I know everything, however what I do know comes from yrs of experience and that is worth a lot.
I know a lot of people use your methods but the way I look at it is pretty simple. Organics doesn't need those big number nutrients to produce big quality yields from synthetic ferts. If you mix your soil right all the nutrients will already be broke down and available to the plant by the time flowering starts.
In fact adding those high number synthetic can work against you causing lock out if other nutrients.
Like I said to each their own...

P.s. I did an experiment with a plant. It was grown in one of my boxes with my living soil. It was not fed anything and if it did not rain it did not get watered. The only thing I did was support it so the wind didnt break it.

Good morning Gl hope y’all are doing well plants included! I had a pretty good frost last night some of the gals are drooping they aren’t so happy but the sun is shining on them now I hope they perk up. How was it over yonder?

 

[Rooke]

Good morning Gl hope y’all are doing well plants included! I had a pretty good frost last night some of the gals are drooping they aren’t so happy but the sun is shining on them now I hope they perk up. How was it over yonder?

Pic from yesterday!!!

 

[Greatlakes]

Good morning Gl hope y’all are doing well plants included! I had a pretty good frost last night some of the gals are drooping they aren’t so happy but the sun is shining on them now I hope they perk up. How was it over yonder?

Been in the 40s as a low so we are good for a bit...dont worry they will perk back up later in the day. It takes several hours.