Light mover question

[Konto]

I have two 1,000 watt lights, (Galaxy Magnum XXXL 8" hoods) gonna do a scrog. Will a light mover increase the overall yield if I move it closer and have a larger scrog or would I be more likely to yield more if I just keep em stationary under a smaller screen? I do not want to add anymore light currently, 2,000 watts is plenty. I just want to maximize my GPW with what I got now.

Co2 will be in the mix, female seeds big bud white widow. If i do stationary I would have 6 under each light, moving I'd put 10 under each. Would appreciate any amount of insight from more experienced growers.

Much appreciated.

 

[Seamaiden]

I can't say it will increase your yield, unless you've got so many plants under those lights that the ones on the edges are noticeably lighter & smaller. Otherwise, I like using a mover with certain hoods because it gives better light penetration through the whole canopy. The first time I used one I bleached my plants, long story but the end of the story was that raising the light stopped the bleaching and allowed good growth. I kept my plant numbers the same, was able to increase canopy (scrog) a bit.

 

[Konto]

I can't say it will increase your yield, unless you've got so many plants under those lights that the ones on the edges are noticeably lighter & smaller. Otherwise, I like using a mover with certain hoods because it gives better light penetration through the whole canopy. The first time I used one I bleached my plants, long story but the end of the story was that raising the light stopped the bleaching and allowed good growth. I kept my plant numbers the same, was able to increase canopy (scrog) a bit.

Maybe I should just go with a 4 ft rail and increase the canopy by 20/25%. Do you remember how much your yield increased by roughly?

 

[Seamaiden]

Ohhhhh..... man... that was a while ago! I'd say by about that amount, a quarter more or so. I can hit 2lbs/600W pretty easily using the scrog method (about 16 plants in 1gal pots under each light). If you keep up with the canopy control and remove the poorest (bud) sites, then you can expect a better total quality yield, if not a higher total yield. In other words, you can expect close to the same yield, but more will be nice nugs instead of larfy popcorn.

Pistil-whipping/lollipopping are the methods I use, and I only leave the bud sites that are looking directly at light, everything else goes. An added benefit is trimming those ladies is SO MUCH easier than my OD girls, it's like night and day.

I liked the mover, but it's a little kludgey since I switched to parabolic hoods.

 

[Konto]

Ohhhhh..... man... that was a while ago! I'd say by about that amount, a quarter more or so. I can hit 2lbs/600W pretty easily using the scrog method (about 16 plants in 1gal pots under each light). If you keep up with the canopy control and remove the poorest (bud) sites, then you can expect a better total quality yield, if not a higher total yield. In other words, you can expect close to the same yield, but more will be nice nugs instead of larfy popcorn.

Pistil-whipping/lollipopping are the methods I use, and I only leave the bud sites that are looking directly at light, everything else goes. An added benefit is trimming those ladies is SO MUCH easier than my OD girls, it's like night and day.

I liked the mover, but it's a little kludgey since I switched to parabolic hoods.

Never heard of pistil whipping, gonna have to look into it. But thanks for the insight man, appreciate it. Did you mean quarter ounce or quarter pound? lol If you can think of any links that can go in depth about your techniques would love to see em, otherwise I'll just keep searching the world wide interrrrrrrrrrrweb lol

 

[Cort]

Never heard of pistil whipping, gonna have to look into it. But thanks for the insight man, appreciate it. Did you mean quarter ounce or quarter pound? lol If you can think of any links that can go in depth about your techniques would love to see em, otherwise I'll just keep searching the world wide interrrrrrrrrrrweb lol

Dude, she gonna pistol whip you.

Never heard it called so, but pistil whipping sounds like another term for lollypopping. Sea can correct me if wrong.

 

[symbiote420]

I love my light mover .....no shadows like with a stationary lamp. I've used different reflectors to but my favs for this mover have been my Daystar and Parabolic hoods!!! 12" away bare bulb and no light bleaching or signs of heat stress either!

 

[Konto]

I love my light mover .....no shadows like with a stationary lamp. I've used different reflectors to but my favs for this mover have been my Daystar and Parabolic hoods!!! 12" away bare bulb and no light bleaching or signs of heat stress either!

You using 1k on a 6 ft rail or less? How big of an impact did it have on your overall yield ?

 

[symbiote420]

You using 1k on a 6 ft rail or less? How big of an impact did it have on your overall yield ?

I can't really tell ya I've been running with a light rail so long now LOL, I ran 400, then 600 before running 1000s ......I do have a stationary 1k on the other side of the room over an area no bigger than 5' x 5', the difference I'm seeing is the mover (which covers an area of 5' x 8') side does produce more if I'm counting what's produced from the same underneath!

 

[Natural]

They work great in veg to encompass more plants, but in flower I only use them to bump the lights a foot or so...keeps the hot spots moving and you can get an extra row of plants in there. Beyond bumping them a lil in flower, they never got me bigger yields...smaller lower flowers in fact. If you move the lights so much that it leaves some plants out of direct lighting, it will hurt your yield imo.

 

[Konto]

They work great in veg to encompass more plants, but in flower I only use them to bump the lights a foot or so...keeps the hot spots moving and you can get an extra row of plants in there. Beyond bumping them a lil in flower, they never got me bigger yields...smaller lower flowers in fact. If you move the lights so much that it leaves some plants out of direct lighting, it will hurt your yield imo.

I guess I'm gonna have to do a side by side then, hopefully it will help in my set up.

 

[Natural]

I guess I'm gonna have to do a side by side then, hopefully it will help in my set up.

scrog is prolly gonna be the best scenario for movers, especially if it's only a one tier screen

 

[Konto]

scrog is prolly gonna be the best scenario for movers, especially if it's only a one tier screen

How'd you utilize it in your set up?

 

[Natural]

I run 5 gallon smarties 9 per 1k..depending on the strain they can get 3-6 feet tall..with the lower canopy barely getting any light you can imagine what happens when the mover takes it away. I've pushed movers in the past over at least 4 feet and found I liked them better when there were no "dark spots". The low wattage makes them worth it to run for some, but no means are they magical...they are not going to give you the same results as adding a light or anything.

 

[Konto]

I run 5 gallon smarties 9 per 1k..depending on the strain they can get 3-6 feet tall..with the lower canopy barely getting any light you can imagine what happens when the mover takes it away. I've pushed movers in the past over at least 4 feet and found I liked them better when there were no "dark spots". The low wattage makes them worth it to run for some, but no means are they magical...they are not going to give you the same results as adding a light or anything.

I dont expect it to be like an additional light, I just feel comfortable with 2k for flowering at most since I don't live in a medical state. Like I said I just want to maximize my GPW for my two lights, seems like the best way to use a light mover is under a SCROG. I've just noticed that some people who use it claim it hurts or barely does anything and other state it does amazing for their op. Just trying to talk to some people one on one on here to get an idea on how it hurt/barely did anything/did wonders with their set up.

 

[pugliese63]

Ohhhhh..... man... that was a while ago! I'd say by about that amount, a quarter more or so. I can hit 2lbs/600W pretty easily using the scrog method (about 16 plants in 1gal pots under each light). If you keep up with the canopy control and remove the poorest (bud) sites, then you can expect a better total quality yield, if not a higher total yield. In other words, you can expect close to the same yield, but more will be nice nugs instead of larfy popcorn.

Pistil-whipping/lollipopping are the methods I use, and I only leave the bud sites that are looking directly at light, everything else goes. An added benefit is trimming those ladies is SO MUCH easier than my OD girls, it's like night and day.

I liked the mover, but it's a little kludgey since I switched to parabolic hoods.

Pistil whipped, oh yea, I haven't heard that term in a good long time. I remember well the thread on Cannabis World where the member by the same name discussed the technique. He was always able to pull big buds/colas off most strains. There was a pic he posted of a trainwreck cola that was massive.

Like yourself I've been using that technique for years. From what I remember he was pretty cool and laid back. I think the community actually named technique "pistil-whipped".

Light movers are a good tool and can really even out the canopy. If you looking to increase yields then multiple lights are the way to go.

 

[ttystikk]

This is a subject I know a bit about. In my humble but extensive experience, I found that linear light movers are the least effective type- each end sits in the dark too long. Circular movers are better. Also, choice of hood is very important; an open horizontal parabolic reflector like an adjust-a-wing is ideal, anything that was meant to be sealed will be inadequate. I have Magnum ochos and I like them for their intended purpose, which is stationary and sealed and vented. Still, not a good choice for a light mover. Try to make your 1000 watt hood travel around a three foot diameter circle about once every three minutes, keeping the bulb about 15" above a very level, well tended canopy for best results.

Finally, use reflective material all the way around the canopy, right at the edge of it. Leave no space between plants and mylar or loss of light- and yield- will be significant.

 

[Seamaiden]

Never heard of pistil whipping, gonna have to look into it. But thanks for the insight man, appreciate it. Did you mean quarter ounce or quarter pound? lol If you can think of any links that can go in depth about your techniques would love to see em, otherwise I'll just keep searching the world wide interrrrrrrrrrrweb lol

I meant about 25% more yield, give or take a few points. I think the best way to describe pistil-whipping is to link you to a primer on Medjool date farming. It's what helped me get my head wrapped around the concept.

http://www.dateland.com/Tutorial.html

 

[ttystikk]

I meant about 25% more yield, give or take a few points. I think the best way to describe pistil-whipping is to link you to a primer on Medjool date farming. It's what helped me get my head wrapped around the concept.

http://www.dateland.com/Tutorial.html

What a neat website! Considering how finicky date palms seem to be about water, environmental conditions and propagation, I have to wonder how they survive in the wild. Thanks again, Seamaiden!

...I am still completely in the dark about what the heck pistil whipping actually is, however!

 

[Seamaiden]

I would define pistil-whipping/lollipopping (canopy control) as removing bud sites with poor potential.

I wrapped my head around the concept reading about the Medjool dates, a gigantic light bulb turned on inside my head and I said, "AHA!"

Wanna feast like a king of old? Bowl of good Greek yogurt, honey, pecans and some Medjool dates. Every time I eat that I think, "I'm feasting like a king! A king in the olden days."