looking for info on brix levels and why they are important

[Curb Feeler]

Aren't most of the beneficial bacteria killed by the fertilizers? What about tap water, doesn't that harm them also? How tuff are these guys?

Do the bacteria and microhizzae both live together in these condos, or do they need separate housing because of different requirements? I know they both end up targeting the roots of your plants.

I like the suspended paint bag filter idea. The bene's seem to need lots of air, supended in the air seems a good way to provide it.

I've heard of people using bags of perlite or coco coir and even bags of sponges to do the same thing, provide a home for the bene's.

 

[crom]

Hmm that is an interesting approach using coco and sponges.

 

[Medusa]

Are any of u still measuring your brix levels and using a refractor meter?

 

[oxanaca]

Are any of u still measuring your brix levels and using a refractor meter?

Yes im measuring ph and ec Sap levels as well. Want to start measuring ca and k.

 

[stutter]

Hi Seamaiden,
I am using the pond barrel now, and yes, I use a power head to pump the solution through the top of the pond barrel, through a mediia filter that is on top of the barrel, then the solution filters through the 'plastic beads' which are coated with living bacteria, then the output goes back into my reservoir.

I don't know how else to continuously grow good bacteria for a hydroponics system, if you have a way, I am all ears :)

i think you have hit the nail on the head i doubt you could optimise it much further than that

 

[Bulldog11]

Are any of u still measuring your brix levels and using a refractor meter?

Over at ICmag I did a grow that reported the brix levels every week. I was averaging a brix level of around 18 and maxed out around 24. I calibrated the meter every month. I did notice during periods right before bad weather my brix level would drop.

During this grow I was also monitoring plant sap ph. I was shooting for 6.4 the entire grow, but my ph started to wonder very late in flower all the way up to 6.8.


Both these methods are very good at monitoring overall plant health. If your brix is 18 (I have heard 12) or higher and your ph stays close to 6.4 you are going to have some top notch herb.

 

[geologic]

I did notice during periods right before bad weather my brix level would drop.

!!!That's very interesting--
how long before bad weather???

 

[Seamaiden]

Over at ICmag I did a grow that reported the brix levels every week. I was averaging a brix level of around 18 and maxed out around 24. I calibrated the meter every month. I did notice during periods right before bad weather my brix level would drop.

During this grow I was also monitoring plant sap ph. I was shooting for 6.4 the entire grow, but my ph started to wonder very late in flower all the way up to 6.8.


Both these methods are very good at monitoring overall plant health. If your brix is 18 (I have heard 12) or higher and your ph stays close to 6.4 you are going to have some top notch herb.

I'm gonna need you to show me how you got sap onto your refractometer. I'm almost going to get myself a saltwater tank so I have a use for mine. :o

 

[Bulldog11]

!!!That's very interesting--
how long before bad weather???

I will try to repeat what I read years ago when it happened, but I am sure I am missing some details. Research for yourself if an exact answer is needed.

The reason the brix drops before a big storm is the plant can detect atmospheric pressures and knows when a storm is coming. During a storm the chances of branches getting whipped around and breaking goes up. As a defense mechanism, the plant takes most of the fluids in the plant and transfers it to the roots. Also those fluids are fuel for photosynthesis and knowing clouds are coming, they don't photosynthesize as well.

Like I said, I probably said some of this wrong, I would google a better answer.

I'm gonna need you to show me how you got sap onto your refractometer. I'm almost going to get myself a saltwater tank so I have a use for mine. :eek:

Sorry I misspoke. I didn't use my refracometer for sap readings. I bought ph strips from Amazon and they work really well. Tested them side by side with a 500$ meter of my buddies, and the strips were just as accurate. They do go hand in hand however. If your brix is low, your ph is off. Same goes for the other way around.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper..._indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0SYQGWHK1F940C2GJ6MJ

The biggest factor in raising brix is humus levels. Keep feeding properly made ACT's and use fresh well made compost and your brix and plants will be right where you want them.

 

[Seamaiden]

I've got similar pH strips, but they measure a tighter range of pH. What about your Brix readings? How did you get those? I wish we could do Brix with strips like the pH, too, it'd be SO much easier!

 

[Bulldog11]

Now that you said that about the ph strips, a light bulb went off. YOUR RIGHT, please buy the strips that have a narrow ph range. The ones I posted wont be much help and now I can't the correct ones on Amazon for a link. Sorry for the improper link, Seamaiden is right.

I used the refractometer for brix readings.

The reason I have backed off the brix readings is because I grow healthy plants that seem to keep high levels of brix. As your brix readings pass 12, getting sap from the plant become harder and harder. When my plant were reading above 20, I needed 5-10 leaves just to get enough juice to measure. Now if you have 12 plants and want to measure every one, that is a pain in the butt and takes a fair amount of time. Now I use it to help address problems certain plants may be having. If I identify what I believe to be a deficiency, I take a brix reading, treat that deficiency with what I believe will help, then take another brix reading to see if she happy's up. A very effective tool.

Also if you have different brix readings from different parts of the plant, you know one of your non mobile elements are imbalanced. P and K ratios are often the issue here.

 

[oxanaca]

I'm gonna need you to show me how you got sap onto your refractometer. I'm almost going to get myself a saltwater tank so I have a use for mine. :eek:

Unfortunately for your weak hands the big vice grip presses from pikeag. Are the best way to sap test

 

[Bulldog11]

I had to make my own ratcheting pliers and it was still hard to get juice. I am a fairly strong dude also.

 

[Seamaiden]

Unfortunately for your weak hands the big vice grip presses from pikeag. Are the best way to sap test

Yeah, I still made mush and not sap. Even with my squashes and cucurbits, made mush.

 

[oxanaca]

Yeah, I still made mush and not sap. Even with my squashes and cucurbits, made mush.

Really?.... ive been using the vice grips on medium sized pot leaves and getting 5 drops of sap with the petriol removed.

I had similar results with pepper leaves, but couldnt get sap from grape leaves no mater what.

Never had any mush. Maybe it's your technique I always fold the leaves up into a ball. And then press it I usually have to reconfigure the leaf and press it again to get a huge amount of SAP.

 

[Bulldog11]

What were your brix levels Oxanaca? I found the higher they are, the harder it is to get sap.

 

[oxanaca]

healthy looking plants usually register 12- 18. The highest ive seen is 22. i havent tested in a while. But im going to start again soon, going to see how ACT and calcium chelate sprays effect my numbers.

Also test Ec and ph

My sap ph is usually about 6.4 to 6.7ph
as far as sap conductivity i usually see around 10-16EC although ive seen crazy numbers like 36-50EC

 

[oxanaca]

What were your brix levels Oxanaca? I found the higher they are, the harder it is to get sap.

I think i noticed this, ill pay better attention from now on.
one thing I noticed for sure though was that at the end of the light cycle I had a lot harder time getting sap then just before they fired up

oncc i have the opportunity to take some meaningful measurements I'm going to start writing them down

 

[Funkadelic]

GREAT THREAD!

I use SLF100 for enzymes and weekly tea with coco.

Is high brix molasses therefore a preferable addition VS standard unsulphured?