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Making BHO from contaminated bud?

  • Thread starter Thread starter OCKushCollector
  • Start date Start date Feb 21, 2012
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Making BHO from contaminated bud?

OCKushCollector Feb 21, 2012 24 Replies 41,505 Views
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tattoojim

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#21
3N1GM4 said:
Maybe when I can just go to my closet full of full jars I will just throw it away but you have to make do when you have very little or none and you would have inhale alot of spores to make you sick unless your lungs or immune system is already in poor 0health and when I see bud rot that bud gets chopped immediately. So I agree that it should not be used but you gotta do what you gotta do.
It still makes decent bho after drying in the jerky maker for a day when the affected spot is trimmed away.
Click to expand...
man ive about cryd cause of bud rot..but it all went in the trash.
for the record my closet isn't full a jars and I med harvest to harvest
 
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3N1GM4

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#22
Dont use bud rot to make bho
 
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chickchack

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#23
Graywolf said:
Hi Graywolf, can you please give me some advice regarding the filtration process and the mould?

If you extract it using alcohol, or BHO and redissolve in alcohol, you can filter it down to 0.2 microns, which takes out all the fecal material and bacteria, using the same principles as if you were purifying drinking water with a micro filtration unit.

We vacuum prefilter using a Whatman #1 and then finish off with a 0.2 micron syringe filter.
Click to expand...



Hi Graywolf, can you please give me some advice regarding the filtration process and the mould?

Question1) Does your filtering method with the 0.2 micron syringe filter decrease the potency of the oil by filtering out the dissolved cannabinoids and terpenes within the solution?

I have been drying cannabis in an environment that was too damp and cold. The result is that the buds look perfectly normal but some have a tiny bit of spider web-like threads on them, which is an onset of mould. These spider web-like threads can barely be noticed with the bear eye and I used a jeweller’s loupe to identify them. However when inspecting the buds under 60X magnified jeweller’s loupe, I saw just a few white spores on long shafts on some buds and this sounds like Aspergillum mould, but I'm not even sure that it’s possible to distinguish Aspergillum mould from Botrytis mould under a 60x jewel’s loop.

Question2) If the buds look perfectly normal and only with the help of a jewler's loop I was able to spot a tiny bit of spider web-like onset of mould and just a tiny bit of the spores on long shafts then my weed can't possibly have much aflatoxins, right?

Any other person would probably not even have noticed the onset of mould on my buds. If I make rick simpson oil with190 proof grain alcohol and then heat it to 250 F for 25 minutes to decarb it, then it would eliminate all the mould and allergens from the oil, but the tiny bit of the aflatoxins will still be present even if I use your filtering method with a 0.2 micron syringe filter.

Question 3) If I only use the heat and 190 proof grain alcohol, without the 0.2 micron filtration, then I will destroy the proteins and therefore kill all the spores but could it still cause an allergic reaction for sensitive people?

Question 4) Will the 0.2 filter really remove all the mould residue and therefore prevent any allergic reactions even in people allergic and sensitive to mould?

P.S. I know that the filter does not remove any aflatoxins that have already been developed by the mould.

Sorry, really did not want to make that long of a post, but can't find any answer to my questions anywhere else and hope you can enlighten me.


Many thanks in advance!
 
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Graywolf

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#24
OCKushCollector said:
Probably a stupid question but here it goes. I wouldn't think of using it for water hash but since BHO is a completely different extraction method, is it safe or not to use contaminated herb to run BHO? I have a bunch of bud/trim that was attacked by catepillars and ended up moldy with catepillar crap in it. Also, the jar was knocked over in my closet so I picked it up off the dirty floor and saved it just in case I could still use it.
Click to expand...

To get rid of bacteria, you will need to filter it to <0.2 microns. You can do that after winterizing using ethanol.
 
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Graywolf

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#25
chickchack said:
Hi Graywolf, can you please give me some advice regarding the filtration process and the mould?

Question1) Does your filtering method with the 0.2 micron syringe filter decrease the potency of the oil by filtering out the dissolved cannabinoids and terpenes within the solution?

No, the cannabinoids and terpenes are in solution. We are filtering out things in suspension.

I have been drying cannabis in an environment that was too damp and cold. The result is that the buds look perfectly normal but some have a tiny bit of spider web-like threads on them, which is an onset of mould. These spider web-like threads can barely be noticed with the bear eye and I used a jeweller’s loupe to identify them. However when inspecting the buds under 60X magnified jeweller’s loupe, I saw just a few white spores on long shafts on some buds and this sounds like Aspergillum mould, but I'm not even sure that it’s possible to distinguish Aspergillum mould from Botrytis mould under a 60x jewel’s loop.

Easier at 100X and here are some pictures:

Question2) If the buds look perfectly normal and only with the help of a jewler's loop I was able to spot a tiny bit of spider web-like onset of mould and just a tiny bit of the spores on long shafts then my weed can't possibly have much aflatoxins, right?

You might check it with a NDT UV blacklight to see if it phosphoresces green.

Any other person would probably not even have noticed the onset of mould on my buds. If I make rick simpson oil with190 proof grain alcohol and then heat it to 250 F for 25 minutes to decarb it, then it would eliminate all the mould and allergens from the oil, but the tiny bit of the aflatoxins will still be present even if I use your filtering method with a 0.2 micron syringe filter.

Question 3) If I only use the heat and 190 proof grain alcohol, without the 0.2 micron filtration, then I will destroy the proteins and therefore kill all the spores but could it still cause an allergic reaction for sensitive people?

You can kill the spores or filter them out, but you can't filter out aflatoxins, because they are in solution.

Question 4) Will the 0.2 filter really remove all the mould residue and therefore prevent any allergic reactions even in people allergic and sensitive to mould?

I wouldn't suggest giving anyone sensitive to mold any form of mold, or mold aflatoxins, under any circumstances, but 0.2 microns is the Pharma filtration standard, because it is small enough to take out even the smallest bacteria.

P.S. I know that the filter does not remove any aflatoxins that have already been developed by the mould.

Sorry, really did not want to make that long of a post, but can't find any answer to my questions anywhere else and hope you can enlighten me.


Many thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
 

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  • Aspergilosis.jpg
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Replies 24
Views 41,505
Started Feb 21, 2012
Latest post Jan 14, 2016
Starter OCKushCollector
Forum Concentrates & Processing

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