Mimed’s Perpetual Thread

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MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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What did your roots look like mimed, do you have pictures of the infestation? I'm really interested in how the plants presented themselves, (leaves, symptoms) and what the root sites looked like, was it widespread? were they swarming up top, was there other substances that were hallmarks?

I know I'm probably going to deal with it eventually, and I've seen a few suspect bugs hanging out on the balcony that might be considered potential problems. I do a bit of recycling of soil, and I have an ongoing worm casing bin. Here's how my root balls looked form some of the last ones, and they pots afterwards.

See anything that stands out?


I had many fliers i misdiagnosed as fungus gnats for a while. I wouldnt miss them again. Longer wings short body.

But i never saw any evidence in the rootballs. I saw the little .5mm little white bugs crawling on the edge of the black nursery pots. That was my only identification other than the fliers. I did not see so much waxy white stuff like the link i posted shows. But i learned that the white gook protects them from the pesticides.

You can look back a year in my thread and see many deficiencies and yellow plants. I thought it was grower error but it was the bugs eating the nutrients right out of the roots. Mostly always is described online and in my experience as a climbing mag deficiency with calcium spots as well. I wonder how many excessive cal mag users have them?

Talking with @Dirtbag we think because i am always introducing new clean plants and constantly harvesting the infested ones the system kept the root aphids down in numbers. I think thats why i had fliers before tons of crawlers. I only ever saw one or two before the heat wave early summer. Then they started growing in numbers. Thats when i shut down.


They are truly an invisible predator. For the first 2/3 of the infestation. You have to identify the mystery deficiency.


Sad to say. Many growers do not defeat these things. I even threw out or harvested all the plants and left the room clean and empty a month and cleaned again. They lay winter eggs that give birth to a live female even 6 months later. And they lay them in the walls. Sneaky.


And they hide under the root ball and insode deep to avoid contact with the fungucides and pesticides.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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When you say edge, you mean the top edge of the pot? or or an inside edge? Yea, I agree lot's of various things people call "nutrient deficiency" is likely caused by another source, I've learned that over time, just most all of us have, the hard way.

That said, now I see something, I look at things though a different lens, looking at all the things I know I'm doing right, then work my way down the list of possible others. It's good if you can learn from the mistakes of others, because then you don't have to travel the road yourself one day, but that's not always the case. Other times, it takes a few times of doing something wrong to get all the underlying problems removed, causative agents or factors.

I like having excellent moisture, and I tend to sometimes become a bit zealous with my flushes. As counter measures, I maintain excellent drainage, use regular flushes with surfactant's (usually once weekly), especially in flowering. I also try to maintain good airflow on the cloth pots, but all of this still causes some moisture problems, especially during the fall when the windows are open, and it's humid.

Keeping the air nice and dry is critical, I think. (I use dehumid in the winter months) But above all else, I try to allow the pots to dry out well every so often, or every few days. Especially late into flowering, or when things are not taking as much water. It's easy, if your not actually "feeling" that soil everyday to not have an exact handle on the precise moisture content. Especially if you've got a lot of plants.

But I think moisture control might be a contributing factor, or perhaps a tool in the box of remedy to overall root health, generally speaking. Root's have always been the foundation that I build a plant upon, it's why I take so much pride in early growth spurts, and making seedlings thrive. It's like the "digestive system" of the plant, and has to be treated as such.

When the root's don't feel good, the whole plant is sick.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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When you say edge, you mean the top edge of the pot? or or an inside edge? Yea, I agree lot's of various things people call "nutrient deficiency" is likely caused by another source, I've learned that over time, just most all of us have, the hard way.

That said, now I see something, I look at things though a different lens, looking at all the things I know I'm doing right, then work my way down the list of possible others. It's good if you can learn from the mistakes of others, because then you don't have to travel the road yourself one day, but that's not always the case. Other times, it takes a few times of doing something wrong to get all the underlying problems removed, causative agents or factors.

I like having excellent moisture, and I tend to sometimes become a bit zealous with my flushes. As counter measures, I maintain excellent drainage, use regular flushes with surfactant's (usually once weekly), especially in flowering. I also try to maintain good airflow on the cloth pots, but all of this still causes some moisture problems, especially during the fall when the windows are open, and it's humid.

Keeping the air nice and dry is critical, I think. (I use dehumid in the winter months) But above all else, I try to allow the pots to dry out well every so often, or every few days. Especially late into flowering, or when things are not taking as much water. It's easy, if your not actually "feeling" that soil everyday to not have an exact handle on the precise moisture content. Especially if you've got a lot of plants.

But I think moisture control might be a contributing factor, or perhaps a tool in the box of remedy to overall root health, generally speaking. Root's have always been the foundation that I build a plant upon, it's why I take so much pride in early growth spurts, and making seedlings thrive. It's like the "digestive system" of the plant, and has to be treated as such.

When the root's don't feel good, the whole plant is sick.


On the inside and top edge of the pot and scatter if disturbed by my finger. Also on the floor walking to the next tray by the end.

And i should have said the mag/ calcium like deficiency went from the lower fans like when you feed ocean forest a little too soon. And by the worst of the infestation the whole plant would go yellow and droop overnight. The root aphids eat the nutrients the plant is trying to uptake right from burrowing into the roots. My runoff ec was down to water only with 1.6 going in at the worst of it.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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The Heri-jacks have been sad and droopy. So i just hit them with a second botanigard drench in a week. They started perming up right away. I also gave a lower ec nutrient mix.

And i re installed my flourescent t-5 ho lamps. The 315 lec is a bit intense for the young small plants when treated. I wanted to lower overall intensity but keep a good spectrum. And the ge 6500 2 foot tubes have done well for me and i know what to expect.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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Here they are. Perked up a bit already.

They looked great until the botanigard treatment and under the 315 cmh.
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amekins

amekins

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When you say edge, you mean the top edge of the pot? or or an inside edge? Yea, I agree lot's of various things people call "nutrient deficiency" is likely caused by another source, I've learned that over time, just most all of us have, the hard way.

That said, now I see something, I look at things though a different lens, looking at all the things I know I'm doing right, then work my way down the list of possible others. It's good if you can learn from the mistakes of others, because then you don't have to travel the road yourself one day, but that's not always the case. Other times, it takes a few times of doing something wrong to get all the underlying problems removed, causative agents or factors.

I like having excellent moisture, and I tend to sometimes become a bit zealous with my flushes. As counter measures, I maintain excellent drainage, use regular flushes with surfactant's (usually once weekly), especially in flowering. I also try to maintain good airflow on the cloth pots, but all of this still causes some moisture problems, especially during the fall when the windows are open, and it's humid.

Keeping the air nice and dry is critical, I think. (I use dehumid in the winter months) But above all else, I try to allow the pots to dry out well every so often, or every few days. Especially late into flowering, or when things are not taking as much water. It's easy, if your not actually "feeling" that soil everyday to not have an exact handle on the precise moisture content. Especially if you've got a lot of plants.

But I think moisture control might be a contributing factor, or perhaps a tool in the box of remedy to overall root health, generally speaking. Root's have always been the foundation that I build a plant upon, it's why I take so much pride in early growth spurts, and making seedlings thrive. It's like the "digestive system" of the plant, and has to be treated as such.

When the root's don't feel good, the whole plant is sick.
What do you use as a surfactant with your flush?
 
Frankster

Frankster

Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
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Yea, I actually bought some mums the other day and put them in with my day grow and the bugs hoping if they had some aphids in the roots, the ladybugs would jump on them actually. (feed and lay eggs in them) So far, one of them has been nesting in the flowers. I just put out new bugs every few days.

I was actually thinking about consciously introducing root aphids, as food, maybe I should do it on the porch.
I notice them crawling along the rims a lot, so maybe there hunting other bugs there.
Maybe I should do a bit of lettuce, or clover or something along those lines.

My sickly little plants in the bottom, there bouncing back though. I think these new lights are going to change things for me in a very big way.



What do you use as a surfactant with your flush?

Yukka extract.
 
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CFC7143

CFC7143

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Here is a recent harvest.

Warlock x Vintage 2006

Warlock is a famous plant by Magus Genetics and Vintage 2006 is an early CH9 plant with a cubed mix of Sensei Seeds Jack Herrer, Power Plant, Hash Plant and Afghani I believe the ch9 hybrid.


The seeds were old and in the original paper pack (later used foil sealed packs) and i had some trouble germinating amd as a seedling. But she pulled through that and a few nutrient stress/ recovery weeks we had.

Took 12 weeks to finish with the issues but she came out great.


Straight out of Flower Room
View attachment 860452

With camera flash
View attachment 860453

One of the many big top buds.
View attachment 860454

Fan and small loose leaves removed for harvest. Camera flash on
View attachment 860477

Camera flash off
View attachment 860478

Hung dry cut up branches with bud leaves intact 9 days. Jarred about a week now. (whats left lol patients have no patience).

Smells strong citrus. Tastes like pineapple and has a flying expansive head high that settles into a mild warm body buzz after a while. Not to be smoked before bed this one.
Whatever your method is your definitely Killin it dude! Keep it up!
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Regarding the powdered imid, I read one packet makes 25 gallons, is this correct?

How did you measure it out? Did you measure it per gallon, per 5 gallon or did you mix the whole pack and how much did it make?
-thanks

Screenshot 20201012 181754 DuckDuckGo
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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Well a little excess runoff with a lower .9 ec solution and a dose of botanigard again and the 2 vegging Heri-Jacks have recovered overnight. Was it the root aphids not all dead? Was it a normal case of overfeeding sensitive plants? Did i simply overwater?

Still dont know. Lol. But it was all covered and something worked. ;-)

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