Your condescending tone is not appreciated or helpful.

I appreciate your post and info, however I clearly do NOT have Fungas Gnats as my problem.

I have researched your "HYPOASPIS MILES" and do not believe that they will be an effective control for my perpetual warehouse grow.

Thanks anyways.

Anyone else want to chime in/ answer questions on this discussion?

SYK

how you know their bad mites??

Acari


Soil mitesCommon name: mites

Scientific name: phylum Arthropoda, class Arachnida.

Description

The terms "mites", Acari, or Acarina, are applied to several orders of small (even microscopic) arachnids, which are very diverse morphologically. Mites are the most numerous arthropods living in the soil. In the leaf litter and soil of a forest the population density of mites can reach hundreds of thousands of individuals per square meter. There are many thousands of described species, yet the fauna of much of the tropical soils is still unknown.

The body of a mite is divided into two regions - the anterior gnathosoma, which bears mouthparts and palps, and the large rounded idiosoma, which makes up the bulk of the body and bears four pairs of legs. The free-living mites of soil and litter usually have well-developed walking legs. The appearance of these mites is extremely varied. Some of the larger soil mites can exceed 5 mm in size, while small ones can be less than 0.2 mm. The mouthparts of mites are small appendages called chelicerae, which end in pincers. Chelicerae are variously modified in different mite groups according to their varied feeding modes, which include grazing on fungi and bacteria, piercing plant cells and animal skin, or preying on other invertebrates. Some of the most common soil mites are described below.
The members of the suborder Oribatida (=Cryptostigmata) are called "beetle" or "moss" mites. Adult oribatid mites usually have a strong exoskeleton, hardened by sclerotization, as in other mites, and by mineralization, similar to millipedes and isopodes. These slow moving mites are 0.2 - 1.0 mm in length and occur in the top layer of soil, in litter debris, and sometimes also on plants, mosses and lichens.

In contrast to many other microarthropods (=small athropods), oribatid mites reproduce slowly. In cold climates, their life cycle can stretch up to seven years (usually one-two years). Females lay few eggs. Many species are obligately parthenogenetic, with no males recorded. With their slow metabolic rate, slow development and low fecundity, Oribatida are not capable of fast population growth and are usually restricted to relatively stable environments. Oribatid mites graze on fungi and algae, consume decomposing plant matter and occasionally dead collembolans. Some oribatids feed on live nematodes. For many groups feeding habits are still unknown. Adult oribatid mites experience relatively little predation due to their strong exoskeleton, though they are subject to predation by ants, certain beetles and small salamanders. The soft-bodied nymphs are attacked by many soil predators. Oribatida comprise an important component of soil decomposers; their abundance, species composition and diversity in a particular habitat serve as good indicators of soil "health".

The large gamasid mite Pergamasus crassipes is a voracious predator. This litter-dwelling mite attacks most soft microarthropods of smaller size.The cohort Gamasina (suborder Mesostigmata) contains fewer species than oribatid mites. Gamasid mites are universally present in soil, though not as numerous as oribatid mites. Almost all Gamasina are predators. Similar to spiders, they inject digestive liquid into the prey they have caught, and then suck up dissolved tissues. The abundance and community structure of these mites reflect the availability of their prey. The larger surface-dwelling gamasid mites attack small arthropods (collembolans, soft-bodied mites, insect larvae and eggs). Smaller deep-litter and soil forms are predominantly nematophagous and are the most important predators of nematodes in many habitats. Some species are fungal feeders. Several genera are considered good bioindicators of habitat and soil condition.
The mites of the suborder Prostigmata are extremely diverse in their size, appearance, and ecology. This very large suborder includes 136 families, of which only 35 famillies are free-living inhabitants of soil and litter, while many others are plant feeders or parasites of animals. Some better known non-soil Prostigmata incude economically important plant pests, such as spider mites (family Tetranychidae), the gall mites (superfamily Eriophyoidea), and the parasites of vertebrates - chiggers (family Trombiculidae), which can attack people.

The free-living soil Prostigmata include such diverse groups as tiny fungivorous Endeostigmata and Pygmephoroidae, active predators Bdelloidea, plant-feeding Cheyletidae, etc... Even within the same family there can be a variety of feeding modes, such as those found among the species of Tarsonemidae and Tydeidae.


Red velvet mite, native beech forest, New ZealandMost of the soil Prostigmata are microscopic, but one group - the velvet mites (family Trombidiidae) - are large and conspicuous. These large red mites can often be found slowly walking across the forest floor. They are bright red, puffy and velvety in appearance, and spectacularly large. These mites are harmless and very beautiful if examined under a magnifying glass. The larvae of the velvet mites are external parasites of insects, and the adults are predatory on insect eggs, larvae, pupae, and on other small arthropods.
http://soilbugs.massey.ac.nz/acari.php

I have researched your "HYPOASPIS MILES" and do not believe that they will be an effective control for my perpetual warehouse grow.


Clearly whatever you are doing has proven to be ineffective because you are still fighting this problem.
Hypoaspis miles will be effective in your warehouse, you are mistaken. They will eliminate your soil mite problem.

I have defeated these soil mites and I am telling you how to do it.
And you want to fix this problem how? By dumping a bunch of poison on your plants.
I am done now:headbang

crippled tell me how i can tell if they good or bad mites. I have some too, just never considered them bad.

If your plants are not showing any signs of damage then obviously the bugs are not feeding on them.
I started seeing problems in the lowest fan leaves.
It seems odd that any pest would be drawn to your garden if your plant was not the target. Why would a carnivorous mite want to live there? It's either eating other bugs or your roots.
How long has it been there?
This is the leaf damage I started seeing. It would then progress to looking dry and crispy.
http://i352.invalid.com/albums/r355/ajetsrgn1/100_0366.jpg

try this page out might help

GREENHOUSE MITES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT

SomeoneYouKnow said:

Your condescending tone is not appreciated or helpful.

I appreciate your post and info, however I clearly do NOT have Fungas Gnats as my problem.

I have researched your "HYPOASPIS MILES" and do not believe that they will be an effective control for my perpetual warehouse grow.

Thanks anyways.

Anyone else want to chime in/ answer questions on this discussion?

SYK

Click to expand...

Yeah, that's going to be an ongoing issue. My problem also came in this type of situation... had to literally shut the place down, ditch the coir, start anew.

Problem is that they get everywhere & can survive outside the pot/medium for days on end. They spread.

They also get into the irrigation lines, rez & drains. It is nearly impossible to get every single last one of them.

Killing the eggs is a separate issue as well.

These things just eat & fuk & spread... by the thousands. Certain ones are far easier to kill than others, but some... nearly impossible.

Bene's aren't going to work at this late stage... no doubt in my mind whatsoever.


Just the same, not once did I ever see any issues related to root zone uptake... always super healthy roots... and top growth. Nothing like root aphid/gnat damage... nothing at all.

I did kill some girls trying to kill the mites, though... go figure lol GL... they'r super tough. ;-)

nice input guys... i have decided that they r most likley some sort of benificial bug.
i have no mite damage on the leaves..
my last grow was so fucking compounded w/ problems. it was about 100 degrees in the grow, there were fungas nat s ,there was disgusting black alge in the channels, and i ended up w/ pythium & i lost most of the batch. i run 3 tables.. i harvest either 1 or 2 tables every 20th of the month(depending on rotation) so i lost a whole table.
i used some ortho max(bieferin???) i poures about a gallon of it in the rezzy. its not phytotoxic so it wont hurt.....i sterilized the table....sprayed avid, vacumed all the dust/dirt up & now im back w/ 2 of the three tables thriving... i have pics but i lost the usb cord....
oh btw i sved about 20 og plant s & i should end up w/ 100grams or so... so its not a total loss..

something caused an uncurable root rot in almost 1/2 the garden.. i really dont know??
the mites seem to be predatory, & unless they eat roots like nat larve, i m beefuddled.
.

it trips me out how i never put any benificial bugs in my garden, & how they just appeared. it is a little eco sytem & nature always has a way to keep itself in check..
but where do they come from??

oh btw i have some thrips in my bloom & theyre not alot of them but i noticed maybe 5 of them, i use safer ENDALL spray but i saw 1 hop off, so im gona bomb in there 2day
they only seem to effect the tops of the leave..but since its all buba in there & the leaves get so big that they over lap & give good hiding places to the thrips.. i figured i would bomb in there & just smoke em out w/ some pyrethium or attain??not sure?
weird how the avid doesnt kill thrips, only mites..

THRIPS... Any suggestions???


it trips me out how i never put any beneficial bugs in my garden, & how they just appeared. it is a little eco sytem & nature always has a way to keep itself in check..
but where do they come from??

They come from everywhere there all around us. Anytime you have a ecosystem other animals trying to live the good life will come around. Them rotting roots, and etc (stems old rotting leaves) attract diseases and insects, decomposer's etc. Thats why if you in soil you dont let the soil stay real damp and stagnant. In hydro we like to keep it bubbling or moving to keep from getting stagnant. And thats why alot of people like to have the good Bennie's set up before the bad Bennie's hit the block and try to take over.

BoCo Buds said:

Bene's aren't going to work at this late stage... no doubt in my mind whatsoever.

Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in man ....

Cripled1 - no disrespect intended, I have just never seen overly positive results from predator insects.

Poisons it is.

Thanks Everyone for your input!

SYK

yellow sticky traps! if they can fly!

You should really give hypoaspis a try. I was hoping they would maintain a population in my medium but I was wrong. They only have about an 11 day lifespan and once the foodsource is gone, they DISAPPEAR.
I'm actually upset about it.
I went in there today and could only find 1 mite.
Seriously, I looked for a long time.
I even pulled a plant out of it's pot and there were no mites at all in the pot.
They are well known for being voracious predators. They will wipe your grow clean. And then leave. Or die.
I am so impressed with the performance of these things I will be using them much in the future. I'm not sure if I can keep those fucking mites out of my room.
I understand you might be hesitant, I was very hesitant to use them. I don't care what second hand info you have heard about predators. I just used them last week and am now a believer. These things will get the job done in 2 days! If you throw enough numbers at them.
http://www.petsnails.co.uk/documents/hypoaspis_miles.html

yeah it seems like the mites are all gone 4 now???
i use the safer endall spray.. i pretty much lie in wait untill i see a nat & spray anything i see..its neem,pyreth,&some pestsoap..i got some spinosad 4 the thrips i have..

the veg is healthy & pretty much pest free..ive also been a little more dilagent in my maintanince w/ the grow.
i swear next summer im not even gona grow from july-oct,cuz these bugs in the valle are just irritating

Looks like a case of root aphids, I'd use nematodes, should knock them out in around 10 days. Then after use some food grade hydrogen peroxide in your res. because after u kill the root aphids it creates a bacteria that will inturn give your plants root rot. Hit them with the peroxide in your res. to prevent the rot. You're gonna have to look up the mixture, it's been a long time since I've delt with it since I went to soil cuz I was tired of dealing with criters like that. Peace brotha!

crippled1 said:

http://i352.invalid.com/albums/r355/ajetsrgn1/soilmite.jpg

Does this look like a fungus gnat? To suggest such a stupid thing is just retarded.
This evil mite seems to be a growing problem for cannabis farmers. They inhabit just the medium. They do not make webs and I have not found any eggs, they may give birth to live young.
I had them. I don't know what product will kill them, I never battled them, my plants were so fucked up from them I just chopped em without a fight. They will cause your plants to develop root rot that never heals.
THEY ARE PURELY EVIL:sweating

Click to expand...

Ya, homie I had those things in my areo garden a couple years back when I pulled out the cups they'd be all crawling over my hand. Fucken nasty shit! No more Aero for me just cuz of the fact! I swear to god it looked like Avatar in there cuz I was harboring life for everything living that was eating my plants roots. Seriously, I think I had every root aphid imaginible in there and they all got along and worked together great.

yeah...the root rot seems to be incurable...i hope to not have to deal w/ them ne more
ive sterilized the grow.. its seems to be all good now....i had a serius alea prob & the bugs were living in there & since i cleaned the table & all is well now......
it was my fault....i went 3or 4 grows w/ out scrubbin the table.....3 weeks w/out a ressy cahnge......there were even mosquito larve in the rezzy......just so gross...oh well
my summertim lazyness cost me a whole batch....in the name of jah.......studid huh?

MadFarmer, have you even read this thread?
It's about MITES not aphids.
The picture I posted is a soil mite. It has eight legs. Lives in the medium. Fucks up plants bad.
It is not a root aphid.
I did figure out how to kill it without any pesticides.

crippled1 said:

MadFarmer, have you even read this thread?
It's about MITES not aphids.
The picture I posted is a soil mite. It has eight legs. Lives in the medium. Fucks up plants bad.
It is not a root aphid.
I did figure out how to kill it without any pesticides.

Click to expand...

Mites, Aphids either way u wana look at it their all bad! In soil it's not that detrimental and pretty easy to manage, I've used green cures systemic insecticide and that worked fine. You can go to your local OSH or hydro store if u wana take the all natural approach and grab some beneficial Nematodes, they come on a sponge and you just let it sit in your resi for 30 mins then feed your plants as usual. They crawl through any and every oriface on the mite or aphid and poison their blood from the inside out within a 24 hr period! It's good shit! In soil tho it is so forgiving I couldn't imagine loosing a whole crop to these, maybe 1 or 2. If you were Aero or Hydro it's much more detramental. Good Job!

ive looked up the rooy aphids & its a possibility cuz i saw some winged adults that i thaught were thrips..........its like an overweight nat on steroids.....i got rid of everything & now im pretty clean...
oh btw...i had some kind of nematode in there ......they were about 1/10 the size of natlarve....when i used bieferin(ortho max) all kinds of bugs were surfacing including these little worms that u need a loop 2 see....i figured they were maybe the mites in a larval stage....but they dont even have one...they just molt a bunch of times.....
i never added ne nematodes.....but whatever.....thats the past...now my babies are healthy.....2 weeks vegg & theyre ready to bloom.....no more probs....

heres the vegg room now.....allpests are in check.....
i did see 2 nat larve 2day& i sprayed them...but as u can see, no more unhealthy ladies....no more pythium & no more wilt

buba
jesus
tahoe
blackberry
& vegg table
various cutz