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I was confused by this aswell but if u dial in the numbers and let the plant chill it does grow much better at higher humidity like the charts say.Once u get past around 70% humidity viruses,mold,pm and bug life really start multiplying exponentially also,not to mention its harder to maintain. My assumption is yes the plants perform better in higher humidity but a balance must be made between plant performance and insect/pathogen/fungus performance also.I am only guessing cuz I've noticed the same discrepancies as well. I can't deny the power of correct VPD but maybe the numbers are guidelines meant to be tailored to different plant genetics ??? Lmk if u eventually figure it out bro I'm curious tooRegarding VPD I am a bit confused. I see multiple discussions that tell me general guidelines in early veg at around 26-27C that I should be running humidity of 50 - 60%. Like this for example: https://weedkb.com/autoflower-temp-and-humidity/
But these VPD charts mostly show I should be running much higher humidity of 80%? Am I reading these wrong?
Thanks for your informed reply. Makes sense it is some kind of trade off between an imaginary ideal of interrelated factors, vs the safer health margin guidelines of a bit lower RH/temp. Also, I found a page / vpd chart that possibly is more in line with my expectations. Or maybe I was reading the other charts wrong. Anyway, this seems informative: https://pulsegrow.com/blogs/learn/vpd#calculate-airI was confused by this aswell but if u dial in the numbers and let the plant chill it does grow much better at higher humidity like the charts say.Once u get past around 70% humidity viruses,mold,pm and bug life really start multiplying exponentially also,not to mention its harder to maintain. My assumption is yes the plants perform better in higher humidity but a balance must be made between plant performance and insect/pathogen/fungus performance also.I am only guessing cuz I've noticed the same discrepancies as well. I can't deny the power of correct VPD but maybe the numbers are guidelines meant to be tailored to different plant genetics ??? Lmk if u eventually figure it out bro I'm curious too
The problem with Led is they do not pull boron as fast as calcium. Very sensitive to the medium and vpd because of this. The leaf temp is more static and doesn't receive uv signal.Regarding VPD I am a bit confused. I see multiple discussions that tell me general guidelines in early veg at around 26-27C that I should be running humidity of 50 - 60%. Like this for example: https://weedkb.com/autoflower-temp-and-humidity/
But these VPD charts mostly show I should be running much higher humidity of 80%? Am I reading these wrong?
Absolutely I agree,I am currently testing flat scrogg vs topping and letting them grow(12 BB#3 clones) with side lighting, I first noticed the differences awhile back. I could see that letting the plants grow while providing light to the entire plant, consistently yielded more buds with less canopy maintenance. I will make my final decision after I finish this run. Great comment myfriend, right on the money,the scrogg is on the way out for sure....The problem with Led is they do not pull boron as fast as calcium. Very sensitive to the medium and vpd because of this. The leaf temp is more static and doesn't receive uv signal.
When the leaves are pointing up, they are pulling B well. That's your vpd meter. There's a direct correlation between "praying" and B uptake.
Use the Cannafused.life calculator to get in range. Develop a standard. Find exactly how far in your canopy to take measurements, stick with it and follow the recommendations on the calc.
The key to hacking Led grows is in the fact that you get an optimal vpd spectrum throughout the entire plant. Flat canopies are out. Lollipopping and all that is out. Vertical strips are in. 6 foot plants with grenades all the way down.
YES THIS!!!! That is 100% what I have experienced as well at the exact same ratio 2 to 1 for my BB3's. I'm wondering if this could have played a part with the issues I had at beginning of thread as well as the other issues? My experience has been that bb3 needs double cal/mag and if it doesn't get enough yellowish orange necrosis,leaf tip clawing and brown spotting at leaf edges. This do fit SOME of the previous issues but other factors were involved. This is a great comment 100% on point with my experience.Hello All,
I have a client in commercial Colorado with the same issue. Turns out Bruce Banner requires a high amount of calcium/magnesium/Nitrogen in the veg stage. The fix was about twice as much (5ml of calmag per gallon instead of 2.5) and above average (a little less than double) nitrogen added. After about 2 days, they were all back to healthy plants. In researching this issue, 90% of people look at it and say it’s an over water issue. Which it looks very similar. It is just a sensitive strain that requires some extra TLC. I have seen on other forums where it happens in flower as well but does not require as much as double to fix it. Client was still in veg stage. Hope this helps!
3 days old or 4 not sure
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