In earlier years, I was a very accomplished psychonaut. A dozen hits of strong acid was wild, but paled in comparison to a 13 dry gram Cyan dose. Nearly 40 years later and I still haven't touched them again. I couldn't really describe it as a trip, as it was more hallucinatory than a vivid dream. In smaller doses they are OK, but I was never one to listen to advice with smaller doses. I now try to heed sage advice!That's the whole reason I'm growing the pan cyans. And I have a syringe of azure spores -- the strongest cubensis known to man. With the introspection of a hero dose + even harder visuals, should be a cleansing window in time
EDIT: Though that reminds me of the innoculation day. Cyan spores seem to stick together a lot more than cubensis spores. I was concerned I wasn't going to get all the jars knocked up because of the clumping. The mycelium resembles the same behavior, lookin like cotton vs stringly, rhizomorphic robustness.
What are you planning on using this for?Ghetto positive pressure box... under $150CAD
parts list.
Backing:
Cabinet: cut into 4 to make 2x15"
Vizusolution Melamine ShelfWhite 16-in x 96-in x 5/8-in
Add functionality to closets or walls with a white melamine shelf. Choose from a variety of lengths ranging from 24 inches to 96 inches to create sol...www.rona.ca
Filter: true hepa 99.97% this is pretty much lab grade. Mine was on sale for $20 you can find these cheaper than I linked.
Acrylic front: 24x18
Silicone:
For some reason the booster fans are ot on the websites... but you can just rob a 4" from a tent for the 30 min it take if you don't wanna buy one... about 150-200cfm works well.
This gives a positive pressure pure hepa filtered air box for transfers. I tossed a stick on push light in for $5.
Total here is $115 with tax. So a ducting booster fan you can usually grab for 30-$40.
Screw together, make sure you predrill and glue the 4 2x15" then attach the back 2x2
Cut the exact size of the hepa filter out so it fits snug and silicon the edges to seal to the wood since this filter will generally last years.
Silicone the acrylic to the front lining up the top edges. This gives you a 6" gap on the bottom for arms and hands.
Heat the 4" duct connector with a butane torch or other. Press into the side of the plastic box. It will melt a perfect hole. After cooled seal with silicone.
Then silocone the plastic box upside-down over the filter and connect the fan....
That's it on the cheap.
Button mushroomsWhat are you planning on using this for?
I think the filter you used and the turbulence from working inside that box may be issues. With most flow hoods there are two filters, the main filter covers one whole side of the box with work being done in the open area in front of it. Sometimes this area is framed in like yours but they have enough air flow and filter area to make sure the air pressure inside remains positive. With your single small paper output filter I think you will end up sucking in contaminated room air from the bottom front of your unit.Button mushroomsto do agar and g2g transfers lowering the risk of contamination while doing them.
haha yeah... been there. 1/2 oz dry of thai koh samui taught me to heed advice too. Still one of the best experiences I've ever had, but definitely don't want to dive that deep again. With the cyans, treading lightly will be the main requisite.In earlier years, I was a very accomplished psychonaut. A dozen hits of strong acid was wild, but paled in comparison to a 13 dry gram Cyan dose. Nearly 40 years later and I still haven't touched them again. I couldn't really describe it as a trip, as it was more hallucinatory than a vivid dream. In smaller doses they are OK, but I was never one to listen to advice with smaller doses. I now try to heed sage advice!
I understand what your saying bit this allows the use of a smaller filter because its positive pressure no air goes back in I will take a vid tomorrow showing how the flow goes. It's even flow out the bottom.I think the filter you used and the turbulence from working inside that box may be issues. With most flow hoods there are two filters, the main filter covers one whole side of the box with work being done in the open area in front of it. Sometimes this area is framed in like yours but they have enough air flow and filter area to make sure the air pressure inside remains positive. With your single small paper output filter I think you will end up sucking in contaminated room air from the bottom front of your unit.
some diy examples
Even more simple, but still uses two filters and has a very small work area in front of the main filter.
Generic flow hood diagram
Also, the simple still air box works great. With proper sterile technique it is every bit as effective as more complicated and costly setups
Target has been stocked with mason jars if you have one near where you live. You dont want ducting on the arm holes of the still air box, keeping them open and wider than your arms (as well as keeping the bottom of the box open against the table) will help reduce turbulence caused by pressure changes from your movements.y'all reminded me I need to order quart jars. Apparently there's a canning spree going on in my area and I can't find em locally. And those flow hoods look desirable. Didn't think about using ducting for the arms holes in my yet-to-be-completed still air box.
Sab is not better than this... idk what to say... this is a still air box with positive pressure of hepa filtered air... it doesn't get much more sterileTarget has been stocked with mason jars if you have one near where you live. You dont want ducting on the arm holes of the still air box, keeping them open and wider than your arms (as well as keeping the bottom of the box open against the table) will help reduce turbulence caused by pressure changes from your movements.
Can't stress this enough, the $10 still air box as it sits pictured above will keep you as contam free as anything else will. The main selling point of the flow hood over the still air box isn't that it reduces contamination, its that it allows much more work space and freedom of movement that is impossible with the sab.
Oh, I won't be using the ducting open. I've been hunting for something to use to mount the gloves I have for it to. I was looking for 4" bulkheads but I'm not about to spend $50+ a piece on pieces of threaded plastic. Ducting is crazy cheap and will do exactly what I need.Target has been stocked with mason jars if you have one near where you live. You dont want ducting on the arm holes of the still air box, keeping them open and wider than your arms (as well as keeping the bottom of the box open against the table) will help reduce turbulence caused by pressure changes from your movements.
Can't stress this enough, the $10 still air box as it sits pictured above will keep you as contam free as anything else will. The main selling point of the flow hood over the still air box isn't that it reduces contamination, its that it allows much more work space and freedom of movement that is impossible with the sab.
Its fluid dynamics. Your setup is like a waterfall, when the water completes its descent it spins and some of the water that was moving downriver gets briefly sucked back up in that spin, I think the air will do the same thing.I understand what your saying bit this allows the use of a smaller filter because its positive pressure no air goes back in I will take a vid tomorrow showing how the flow goes. It's even flow out the bottom.
Doing a laminar flow box costs a LOT more because of the filter size. There is no turbulence.... the clean air fill the box I let it run about 5 to 10 min before use. A laminar flow does not take advantage of positive pressure which is why I designed it this way... idk how this was not done by someone before its simple physics taken advantage of. There is no way for air to get back in just like a positive pressure mask, suit or room
That's what I was gonna say, it's a pressurized SAB you've built. As @FourthCity said, a flow hood just allows for more freedom of movement. I dig what you built, for sure. I think it'll serve you quite well, despite not having a filter before intake and a filter at exhaust.Sab is not better than this... idk what to say... this is a still air box with positive pressure of hepa filtered air... it doesn't get much more sterile
This makes sense. The air exiting the box will create a vortex, and there will be some back draw. However, I imagine with enough pressure, the vortex will be confined to the opening, likely within millimeters. Doing a smoke test would validate, though that's a bit excessive for such a simple build.Its fluid dynamics. Your setup is like a waterfall, when the water completes its descent it spins and some of the water that was moving downriver gets briefly sucked back up in that spin, I think the air will do the same thing.
Rye, yes?And the magic continues:)
Absolutely loving this new hobby,
Moving forward on a new learning curve soon to come.
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Only you are forgetting one thing... its positive pressure and you work inside it... think of a pipe or anything draining under no pressure horizontal plug it with your finger then do the same at 50 psi...nothing is going back in stop the flow and well now things go back in a SAB is the cheapest effective option but no the air is not sterile or filtered... I mean I just don't get how you can think a SAB is more effective.Its fluid dynamics. Your setup is like a waterfall, when the water completes its descent it spins and some of the water that was moving downriver gets briefly sucked back up in that spin, I think the air will do the same thing.
Rye, yes?
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