Werebad
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Will do, I was wondering why they were a little droopy. Thanks!
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Burned Haze
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See that waxy green ( too much nitrogen), means you ethier have a super soiled ( pre mixed fertilizer that’s too strong) or your just feeding regular liquid fertilizer and it’s being overfeed nitrogen ( what’s the brand of soil your using and do you know what ppm of feed your doing if your doing any at all?)
Sorry if I mis-read something if you already said this, just trying to be helpful
Sorry if I mis-read something if you already said this, just trying to be helpful
Werebad
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See that waxy green ( too much nitrogen), means you ethier have a super soiled ( pre mixed fertilizer that’s too strong) or your just feeding regular liquid fertilizer and it’s being overfeed nitrogen ( what’s the brand of soil your using and do you know what ppm of feed your doing if your doing any at all?)
Yes, I'm using FoxFarm Ocean Floor which is a little hot I found out after the fact, lol. When I repot them I'm going to mix it with something so it isn't so hot if they can make it till then. I haven't used anything but water so far and I'm not planning on using any nutrients until the plant tells me it needs them, which should be around 3-4 weeks (or so I've read). Thanks for the info, I can use all the knowledge I can get at this point....
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Burned Haze
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Solution ( not instant cure but def a helper and maybe save your plants from burn ) = buy non super soil ( soil with zero nutes ) and uppot the plants and give pure water whole time , once plants get more established depending on size uprooting the pot again to non fertilizer soil
I normally go 6 inch pot, 1 gal, 3 gal than 5 gal-7gal
So three times, but your really can uppot even into beginning stages of flower and have a good harvest
I normally go 6 inch pot, 1 gal, 3 gal than 5 gal-7gal
So three times, but your really can uppot even into beginning stages of flower and have a good harvest
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Werebad
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Solution ( not instant cure but def a helper and maybe save your plants from burn ) = buy non super soil ( soil with zero nutes ) and uppot the plants and give pure water whole time , once plants get more established depending on size uprooting the pot again to non fertilizer soil
I normally go 6 inch pot, 1 gal, 3 gal than 5 gal-7gal
So three times, but your really can uppot even into beginning stages of flower and have a good harvest
Tonight I upotted to fabric 1 gallon pots. I got some .30 .10 .10 organic soil (Kellogs) at Home Despot and used that with about 30% perlite. I didn't water them since the new soil was pretty moist and the plants were drooping the last couple of days.
My question now is should I start my nutrients when I water again?
I have two extra plants that I left in solo cups just to see what happens...Cheers!
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Burned Haze
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Give them a week and call it “recovery” week of no fertilizer of any kind( that first soil has soil and once your fertilizers in next week give it fert and it won’t be stressed ) and if they are still having any burning signs, even on tips ( if it wasn’t there before the uppot ) , give them 350ppm or 50% strength feed
Top the plant ASAP but give it a good recovery time, just don’t wanna let the plant be too tall. Timing is everything
Top the plant ASAP but give it a good recovery time, just don’t wanna let the plant be too tall. Timing is everything
Old Toby
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Hello Werebad,
I am new here myself but I have been growing for years an I want to help people succeed with their efforts. I agree with Jack OG. Your seedlings are doing well but you absolutely do not want to over water them or over fertilize at this point (or ever really). You are doing right with the solo cups but DO NOT double cup them or you will get fungus gnats and worst of all root rot or fungus. You have done right by taking them out of the other cup. I know it is hard not to water them when you first start growing, it is something that I think all new growers go through. The best way I have found to water your seedlings for the first two weeks or so is by using a spray bottle with a fine mist. As your soil is already plenty wet, start by misting your plants so that the mist forms drops of "dew" on the seedlings. This does three things. First it will make your seedlings form a stronger stalk by adding weight to the top of the little plants. Second, at this stage, misting them will also add moisture to the soil. Since your soil is already saturated, just mist enough to add the dew to the leaves. As they get older and start growing roots they will begin absorbing more water and you will notice the top of your soil drying out. At this point you can begin misting heavier to saturate the soil. The third thing misting will do is keep the humidity up during their first three weeks or so.
As for fertilizer, do not worry yourself about it too much at this point. The Fox Farm Ocean Forest potting soil is the best on the market in my opinion. It is FULL of good things for an early start, at least according to their label. I use it exclusively when I grow in soil. The Fox Farm 6-4-4 is a good fertilizer but I wouldn't add any until about the third week of growth, or maybe a little at 1/2 strength around the end of week two if you just cant wait. Your plants are babies right now and the soil they're in is enough for now. Since you are already using Fox Farm, look into their Grow Big and Tiger Bloom fertilizers as your plants get older.
One tip that I use is misting my seedlings with cheap Great Value Seltzer water from Walmart. It is pure carbonated water with no salt or anything added. I recommend this because it is a cheap way to give your seedlings a Co2 boost. When you mist with this, you are releasing the Co2 directly around your plants. This could be called a supplement as it is not fertilizer. Also if you do this, pour the seltzer into the spray bottle slowly so that it pours slowly down the inside of your spray bottle and not splash around as this will release a lot of the Co2. Get a spray bottle that closes tightly or all the gas will be released through the nozzle if you forget to close it after you spray them. I recommend a good spray bottle from a hardware store as they have better nozzles that will produce a very fine mist and you can also close them tightly.
I generally start my seedlings in a plastic storage tote lined with regular white printer paper or white poster board with my lights hanging at the level of the top of the box. I have a 24" Sunburst T-5 single tube grow light that just happens to fit perfectly across the top of those tote boxes from Walmart. The tote box also encloses the Co2 for a little while while your plants are taking it in. This set up works great for the first two to three weeks or so. After that your plants leaves will begin touching and your plants will begin to stretch as they are beginning to compete for the light. Also I do begin adding more light around the middle of week two as I will describe below.
Now, let's back up a bit and talk about your light situation. In my opinion the type of fluorescent light you have is as good as you are going to get for the seedling stage. But if you notice in your last photo, the plants on the outside are stretching towards the light. You can remedy this by getting a box of the 23watt spiral fluorescent light bulbs and some of those plastic plug in light sockets and plug these into some more extension cords like you already have. This will increase your light coverage to a bigger area so the plants on the outside do not stretch so much. Also with fluorescents, you will not burn your seedlings. Most every grower and light company will tell tell you to use cool white lights in your vegative stage and switch to warm white for flowerng. While I agree with this, I use which ever one I can find at the moment. Both work well and when you get down to it, mixing them is probably best. You get great results with fluorescents in the seedling stage no matter which one you use. They also run cooler and cost less.
One last thing. If you haven't already, you NEED to get a small oscillating fan to move some air around your plants. This will also make your plants stronger. Adjust the fan so that the air is just barely causing the seedlings to move around and shake a little. Not too much now, just enough that you can see the plants moving in the breeze. A fan is critical for keeping fresh air around your plants and also for keeping temperatures from getting too high from your lights.
In closing, I hope I haven't caused you too much confusion with all of this, I just try to give the best advise I can for the stage you are in. I will also encourage you to try not to worry too much as the first 3 to 4 weeks will seem to be the longest month you have to live through as a grower. After this get ready. At around 4 weeks under good conditions you will see rapid growth and it will be time to decide if you want to let them get bigger or switch to 12/12 light cycle. Also note that in the first 3 weeks of flowering your plants will begin stretching dramatically compared to what they have grown by that point. Keeping your day temps at 70 to 75 will help reduce stretching but that is not always possible unless you can get air conditioning to your grow space. If you can run AC to your plants, a night time temp of 68 to 70 will make a real stocky and strong plant.
Keep those photos coming and your spirits "high" and I will help all I can.
Old Toby.
"The finest weed in the Shire"
I am new here myself but I have been growing for years an I want to help people succeed with their efforts. I agree with Jack OG. Your seedlings are doing well but you absolutely do not want to over water them or over fertilize at this point (or ever really). You are doing right with the solo cups but DO NOT double cup them or you will get fungus gnats and worst of all root rot or fungus. You have done right by taking them out of the other cup. I know it is hard not to water them when you first start growing, it is something that I think all new growers go through. The best way I have found to water your seedlings for the first two weeks or so is by using a spray bottle with a fine mist. As your soil is already plenty wet, start by misting your plants so that the mist forms drops of "dew" on the seedlings. This does three things. First it will make your seedlings form a stronger stalk by adding weight to the top of the little plants. Second, at this stage, misting them will also add moisture to the soil. Since your soil is already saturated, just mist enough to add the dew to the leaves. As they get older and start growing roots they will begin absorbing more water and you will notice the top of your soil drying out. At this point you can begin misting heavier to saturate the soil. The third thing misting will do is keep the humidity up during their first three weeks or so.
As for fertilizer, do not worry yourself about it too much at this point. The Fox Farm Ocean Forest potting soil is the best on the market in my opinion. It is FULL of good things for an early start, at least according to their label. I use it exclusively when I grow in soil. The Fox Farm 6-4-4 is a good fertilizer but I wouldn't add any until about the third week of growth, or maybe a little at 1/2 strength around the end of week two if you just cant wait. Your plants are babies right now and the soil they're in is enough for now. Since you are already using Fox Farm, look into their Grow Big and Tiger Bloom fertilizers as your plants get older.
One tip that I use is misting my seedlings with cheap Great Value Seltzer water from Walmart. It is pure carbonated water with no salt or anything added. I recommend this because it is a cheap way to give your seedlings a Co2 boost. When you mist with this, you are releasing the Co2 directly around your plants. This could be called a supplement as it is not fertilizer. Also if you do this, pour the seltzer into the spray bottle slowly so that it pours slowly down the inside of your spray bottle and not splash around as this will release a lot of the Co2. Get a spray bottle that closes tightly or all the gas will be released through the nozzle if you forget to close it after you spray them. I recommend a good spray bottle from a hardware store as they have better nozzles that will produce a very fine mist and you can also close them tightly.
I generally start my seedlings in a plastic storage tote lined with regular white printer paper or white poster board with my lights hanging at the level of the top of the box. I have a 24" Sunburst T-5 single tube grow light that just happens to fit perfectly across the top of those tote boxes from Walmart. The tote box also encloses the Co2 for a little while while your plants are taking it in. This set up works great for the first two to three weeks or so. After that your plants leaves will begin touching and your plants will begin to stretch as they are beginning to compete for the light. Also I do begin adding more light around the middle of week two as I will describe below.
Now, let's back up a bit and talk about your light situation. In my opinion the type of fluorescent light you have is as good as you are going to get for the seedling stage. But if you notice in your last photo, the plants on the outside are stretching towards the light. You can remedy this by getting a box of the 23watt spiral fluorescent light bulbs and some of those plastic plug in light sockets and plug these into some more extension cords like you already have. This will increase your light coverage to a bigger area so the plants on the outside do not stretch so much. Also with fluorescents, you will not burn your seedlings. Most every grower and light company will tell tell you to use cool white lights in your vegative stage and switch to warm white for flowerng. While I agree with this, I use which ever one I can find at the moment. Both work well and when you get down to it, mixing them is probably best. You get great results with fluorescents in the seedling stage no matter which one you use. They also run cooler and cost less.
One last thing. If you haven't already, you NEED to get a small oscillating fan to move some air around your plants. This will also make your plants stronger. Adjust the fan so that the air is just barely causing the seedlings to move around and shake a little. Not too much now, just enough that you can see the plants moving in the breeze. A fan is critical for keeping fresh air around your plants and also for keeping temperatures from getting too high from your lights.
In closing, I hope I haven't caused you too much confusion with all of this, I just try to give the best advise I can for the stage you are in. I will also encourage you to try not to worry too much as the first 3 to 4 weeks will seem to be the longest month you have to live through as a grower. After this get ready. At around 4 weeks under good conditions you will see rapid growth and it will be time to decide if you want to let them get bigger or switch to 12/12 light cycle. Also note that in the first 3 weeks of flowering your plants will begin stretching dramatically compared to what they have grown by that point. Keeping your day temps at 70 to 75 will help reduce stretching but that is not always possible unless you can get air conditioning to your grow space. If you can run AC to your plants, a night time temp of 68 to 70 will make a real stocky and strong plant.
Keep those photos coming and your spirits "high" and I will help all I can.
Old Toby.
"The finest weed in the Shire"
Seraphine
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Powdery mildew thrives when the nights (lights off) are cool and damp and the day(lights on) is hot and dry. Best to water right when lights go on to change that daytime and nighttime microclimate. Get a fan in that tent too. Plants need to be gently dancing.
Interesting fact: In agriculture, farmers will actually water overhead during the day on crops highly susceptible to powdery mildew because PM thrives when the days are hot and dry, changing that day environment will keep it from spreading.
Interesting fact: In agriculture, farmers will actually water overhead during the day on crops highly susceptible to powdery mildew because PM thrives when the days are hot and dry, changing that day environment will keep it from spreading.
Seraphine
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I love the smell of cannabis during veg. But nothing is better than the smell of terpenes on your arms during flower when you’re doing maintenance.Today when I opened the tent I got a really nice whiff of sweet sweetleaf lol...They have started smelling very very nice. The stems are getting thicker and I was able to remove the stakes from the three that needed them. I'm seeing what I assume is a little nutrient burn on the tips of a couple of leaves, (FoxFarm Ocean Floor soil and water is all they have had). I'm going to try and ride it out unless it gets worse. I'm also having a little trouble getting the heat out of the tent in the early evening (the sun sets near the outside closet wall) so I am going to try a low speed intake fan and some ducting to see if it helps. The temps get up to 86C! I can leave the door open and its fine, but I'm hoping to avoid that. All seems ok besides that. Cheers!
Madbud
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Not very often that i agree with everything somebody has to say.Hello Werebad,
I am new here myself but I have been growing for years an I want to help people succeed with their efforts. I agree with Jack OG. Your seedlings are doing well but you absolutely do not want to over water them or over fertilize at this point (or ever really). You are doing right with the solo cups but DO NOT double cup them or you will get fungus gnats and worst of all root rot or fungus. You have done right by taking them out of the other cup. I know it is hard not to water them when you first start growing, it is something that I think all new growers go through. The best way I have found to water your seedlings for the first two weeks or so is by using a spray bottle with a fine mist. As your soil is already plenty wet, start by misting your plants so that the mist forms drops of "dew" on the seedlings. This does three things. First it will make your seedlings form a stronger stalk by adding weight to the top of the little plants. Second, at this stage, misting them will also add moisture to the soil. Since your soil is already saturated, just mist enough to add the dew to the leaves. As they get older and start growing roots they will begin absorbing more water and you will notice the top of your soil drying out. At this point you can begin misting heavier to saturate the soil. The third thing misting will do is keep the humidity up during their first three weeks or so.
As for fertilizer, do not worry yourself about it too much at this point. The Fox Farm Ocean Forest potting soil is the best on the market in my opinion. It is FULL of good things for an early start, at least according to their label. I use it exclusively when I grow in soil. The Fox Farm 6-4-4 is a good fertilizer but I wouldn't add any until about the third week of growth, or maybe a little at 1/2 strength around the end of week two if you just cant wait. Your plants are babies right now and the soil they're in is enough for now. Since you are already using Fox Farm, look into their Grow Big and Tiger Bloom fertilizers as your plants get older.
One tip that I use is misting my seedlings with cheap Great Value Seltzer water from Walmart. It is pure carbonated water with no salt or anything added. I recommend this because it is a cheap way to give your seedlings a Co2 boost. When you mist with this, you are releasing the Co2 directly around your plants. This could be called a supplement as it is not fertilizer. Also if you do this, pour the seltzer into the spray bottle slowly so that it pours slowly down the inside of your spray bottle and not splash around as this will release a lot of the Co2. Get a spray bottle that closes tightly or all the gas will be released through the nozzle if you forget to close it after you spray them. I recommend a good spray bottle from a hardware store as they have better nozzles that will produce a very fine mist and you can also close them tightly.
I generally start my seedlings in a plastic storage tote lined with regular white printer paper or white poster board with my lights hanging at the level of the top of the box. I have a 24" Sunburst T-5 single tube grow light that just happens to fit perfectly across the top of those tote boxes from Walmart. The tote box also encloses the Co2 for a little while while your plants are taking it in. This set up works great for the first two to three weeks or so. After that your plants leaves will begin touching and your plants will begin to stretch as they are beginning to compete for the light. Also I do begin adding more light around the middle of week two as I will describe below.
Now, let's back up a bit and talk about your light situation. In my opinion the type of fluorescent light you have is as good as you are going to get for the seedling stage. But if you notice in your last photo, the plants on the outside are stretching towards the light. You can remedy this by getting a box of the 23watt spiral fluorescent light bulbs and some of those plastic plug in light sockets and plug these into some more extension cords like you already have. This will increase your light coverage to a bigger area so the plants on the outside do not stretch so much. Also with fluorescents, you will not burn your seedlings. Most every grower and light company will tell tell you to use cool white lights in your vegative stage and switch to warm white for flowerng. While I agree with this, I use which ever one I can find at the moment. Both work well and when you get down to it, mixing them is probably best. You get great results with fluorescents in the seedling stage no matter which one you use. They also run cooler and cost less.
One last thing. If you haven't already, you NEED to get a small oscillating fan to move some air around your plants. This will also make your plants stronger. Adjust the fan so that the air is just barely causing the seedlings to move around and shake a little. Not too much now, just enough that you can see the plants moving in the breeze. A fan is critical for keeping fresh air around your plants and also for keeping temperatures from getting too high from your lights.
In closing, I hope I haven't caused you too much confusion with all of this, I just try to give the best advise I can for the stage you are in. I will also encourage you to try not to worry too much as the first 3 to 4 weeks will seem to be the longest month you have to live through as a grower. After this get ready. At around 4 weeks under good conditions you will see rapid growth and it will be time to decide if you want to let them get bigger or switch to 12/12 light cycle. Also note that in the first 3 weeks of flowering your plants will begin stretching dramatically compared to what they have grown by that point. Keeping your day temps at 70 to 75 will help reduce stretching but that is not always possible unless you can get air conditioning to your grow space. If you can run AC to your plants, a night time temp of 68 to 70 will make a real stocky and strong plant.
Keep those photos coming and your spirits "high" and I will help all I can.
Old Toby.
"The finest weed in the Shire"
Werebad
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See that waxy green ( too much nitrogen), means you ethier have a super soiled ( pre mixed fertilizer that’s too strong) or your just feeding regular liquid fertilizer and it’s being overfeed nitrogen ( what’s the brand of soil your using and do you know what ppm of feed your doing if your doing any at all?)
I think you are right, and I'm also wondering if my plants are showing "The Claw" (Curling over mimicking overwatering but really its another symptom of N toxicity). This would make sense, because I have barely been watering these guys. Now the question is, how do I lower the levels of N in the fresh soil I just transplanted them into. It is a lower N value (30 instead of 40), but I'm not sure how to approach this. Flushing would be easy to do, but I'm not sure if it is the right thing to do.
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Burned Haze
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The more water you can give it that’s correct ph , and 68-78f the better, bennies ain’t bad ethier
I’m not talking about over-watering , just meaning once the plant has the opportunity and always let the plant dry so the roots scout as well and no bad pathogens gain
I’m not talking about over-watering , just meaning once the plant has the opportunity and always let the plant dry so the roots scout as well and no bad pathogens gain
Werebad
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The more water you can give it that’s correct ph , and 68-78f the better, bennies ain’t bad ethier
Bennies? I know you don't mean pills, but I'm not sure what that means, lol..
B
Burned Haze
Guest
Beneficial bacterial and fungi
Like em1 ( a Bennie that helps with decomposing and killing bad pathogens and bad odor ) you can drench/ spray this to your compost it can make your compost like roadrunner after you get started and it’s so safe people in India use it as their main cleaner for floors and general cleaner . it’s 75 bucks a gallon buck YouTube it and it’s easy to make your own and it has a 1 year shelf life ( like 3 steps and 25 bucks to do it )
Like em1 ( a Bennie that helps with decomposing and killing bad pathogens and bad odor ) you can drench/ spray this to your compost it can make your compost like roadrunner after you get started and it’s so safe people in India use it as their main cleaner for floors and general cleaner . it’s 75 bucks a gallon buck YouTube it and it’s easy to make your own and it has a 1 year shelf life ( like 3 steps and 25 bucks to do it )
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Werebad
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Beneficial bacterial and fungi
Lol, gotcha, guess I know how I'm spending my Saturday night Thanks, man I really appreciate it!
B
Burned Haze
Guest
Just make sure after this week “ recovery week “ you feed them with a liquid and feed with feed water, feed, water method always ( I would even foliar spray also to help the whole plant through it’s cycle of its map )
I would suggest 375 ppm -450 ppm at that time if your doing liquid for your drenches
I would suggest 375 ppm -450 ppm at that time if your doing liquid for your drenches
Bobble
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My first grow also. They become your babies.
Werebad
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Just make sure after this week “ recovery week “ you feed them with a liquid and feed with feed water, feed, water method always ( I would even foliar spray also to help the whole plant through it’s cycle of its map )
I would suggest 375 ppm -450 ppm at that time if your doing liquid for your drenches
I will do that for sure, thanks! I haven't added any nutes at all the entire time I've grown these. I flushed the plants last night with 6.6 PH 80PPM tap water until the runoff was around 120-180PPM. These pics show some of the symptoms I have been seeing in the last couple of days. My amateur google research (lol) says I'm seeing Nitrogen toxicity (downward curling tips of leaves along with the deep green color you mentioned) and maybe Mag deficiency? (Yellowing and the brown spots between the leaf veins). Or is the yellowing and spots a symptom of the nitrogen tox? Or is it overwatering (But I always made sure the soil was bone dry before I added some water) I also see some burn on the tips. What am I missing? Should I add Cal-mag ? I just want to leave them alone if I can, but I will add that if I need to. Thanks again!
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Werebad
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My first grow also. They become your babies.
That's the truth!
Werebad
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My plants are just coming into week 3 of veg! Smells great in here...
I'm attempting to sex as many of these plants as I can to get rid of some (I have 11 and I have space for 3-4). Here are two pics each of a couple of plants that I have magnified and made guesses on. Anybody care to hazard a guess on them? I have labelled them plants 1 and 3 to keep track of their position in my tent. Again there are two pics of each one.
So far the plants seem to be doing well. But I have a new crop right behind them and need to make some room, lol...
Cheers!
I'm attempting to sex as many of these plants as I can to get rid of some (I have 11 and I have space for 3-4). Here are two pics each of a couple of plants that I have magnified and made guesses on. Anybody care to hazard a guess on them? I have labelled them plants 1 and 3 to keep track of their position in my tent. Again there are two pics of each one.
So far the plants seem to be doing well. But I have a new crop right behind them and need to make some room, lol...
Cheers!
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