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My First Grow, HELP PLEASE!

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My First Grow, HELP PLEASE!

JohnBlazr 213 Replies 21,593 Views
Page 7 of 11 · Replies 121–140 of 214
#121
Also you dont need to have runoff every watering if youre using enzymes, microbes, chelated amino acids, etc... I only go for runoff once every 2 weeks max, I dont like flooding my plants every time I water but I know some people do, I respect it but I dont think its good for the plant. Its been years since my leaves have gone droopy for over watering, somtimes they do get droopy because they want water, I water them and they go back to normal in hours. (Happens with my small indoors, 2 gallon pots so they dry quick and if I miss 1 day they get needy, which is okay, never negleected them to the point they had irreversible damage, that would take some serious negligence)
 
#122
I work hydro for the exact purpose of precision and control. It alleviates over and under watering conditions. I have others I know who ran soil, but not organic where you simply feed water and let it go. These types, as simple and natural as it seems is a less efficient and a chase for problems. That’s an individual thing because I have an analytical mind and I require control of all things. Depending on the soil, the nutrients that is in it already, the kind of stabilizers in it…alll that stuff can cause issues because you really have no idea the make up. Now, using soil that you are feeding nutrients, it’s less a hassle because you can pinpoint nutrients and adjust. But with all the soil growers I know personally, you water until you have good runoff, back it off and use 60% of what you used and you’ll be watering every 2-3 days perfectly. This is coming from gents growing 6’ plants with 1 pound a plant yields.
 
#123
Eledin said:
Too much water, when you overwater your new leaves start coming pale and eventually yellow, but thats my opinion, maybe there's something else to it but it fits with the droopy leaves that recovered when the substrate dried a bit. How long after you water them did they look droopy?
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Not long , so maybe :/. I read it’s about frequency of watering, not how much you water at a time. Is this true?
 
#124
Eledin said:
(Happens with my small indoors, 2 gallon pots so they dry quick and if I miss 1 day they get needy, which is okay, never negleected them to the point they had irreversible damage, that would take some serious negligence)
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-This , I think
 
#125
Bdubs said:
I work hydro for the exact purpose of precision and control. It alleviates over and under watering conditions. I have others I know who ran soil, but not organic where you simply feed water and let it go. These types, as simple and natural as it seems is a less efficient and a chase for problems. That’s an individual thing because I have an analytical mind and I require control of all things. Depending on the soil, the nutrients that is in it already, the kind of stabilizers in it…alll that stuff can cause issues because you really have no idea the make up. Now, using soil that you are feeding nutrients, it’s less a hassle because you can pinpoint nutrients and adjust. But with all the soil growers I know personally, you water until you have good runoff, back it off and use 60% of what you used and you’ll be watering every 2-3 days perfectly. This is coming from gents growing 6’ plants with 1 pound a plant yields.
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I do a mix of my own super soil and organic bottled nutes. I like to have control aswell so I give them a wide variety of slow absorption ammendments and adjust to maxium potential with the liquid ferts.
JohnBlazr said:
Not long , so maybe :/. I read it’s about frequency of watering, not how much you water at a time. Is this true?
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They are directly related, you can water just enough with no runoff every few days or go for runoff but give them more time. The type of soil also plays a role. Its basically when your soil and roots are too wet for too long and thy want more oxygen.
 
#126
Soil moisture is a thing. If you are over watering, or the moisture of the soil is constantly too wet, root rot will cause yellowing?
 
#127
Bdubs said:
Soil moisture is a thing. If you are over watering, or the moisture of the soil is constantly too wet, root rot will cause yellowing?
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Usually the leaves start burning, yellowing and then turning brown. But you dont need to get root rot for the leaves to be droopy and pale, thats just the plant saying "stop or it will get worse".
 
#129
I would assume this to be true as with hydro, if the water in the reservoir becomes too hot or your incoming air from your air pump is too hot, there is less oxygen to the roots and will cause root rot.
 
#130
One thing I would do in the past when I was unsure if it was under watering or over watering is water them and then wait until they asked for more water, that way I would get an idea of how long the pots could hold enough moisture for the plant. You can also tell by weight but it doesnt need to be full of water, just not having a dry cycle is enough, even if not too wet but for too long, so the weight thing doesnt always do the trick.
 
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#131

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#132
Wow 30% humidity, Im guessing you choose strains used to low humidity like afghanis and so on? Otherwise and maybe even with that, I guess the yields suffer with such low moisture. Is not like that all year is it? I mean the bud looks fire but more humidity would probably give you more yield right?
 
#135
After you water, what's the soil like? Did it moisten all the soil, top to bottom, left to right? Not soaked/dripping out, but no dry pockets? Sometimes you just gotta use your hands, feel the dirt in multiple places, dig down with your fingers, lift the pots......does it feel heavy enough that you know it's been well-watered, but not inappropriately heavy....? I know these aren't exactly real measurenents, numbers, they're more judgement calls, but once you get the watering cycles down, you've got that.

Let the plants ask you for feeding. Wait until you see actual signs that they're ready, then go light......let them ask you for more.
 
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#136
I’ll concur with this guy “let the plant tell you when it’s hungry” as long as you have your soil coverage down and dispersing evenly. When they droop (if everything else is proper) they are hungry. Some plants express this dramatically and others will only drop the tips. Figure out the plants actions toward feed time and smoke a bowl/joint while you take an hour to reflect on her signal and if it’s The signal. Once the commonality is found, that’s your deed single for that specific girl.

Roots supply the plant and equal the plant growth above, if you leave pockets, you may see some parts of the plant reacting differently or looking more healthy than other parts? Speculating because I don’t know soil but I’ll throw that in as a question.
 
#137
Eledin said:
Wow 30% humidity, Im guessing you choose strains used to low humidity like afghanis and so on? Otherwise and maybe even with that, I guess the yields suffer with such low moisture. Is not like that all year is it? I mean the bud looks fire but more humidity would probably give you more yield right?
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Oh I wish we had a lot of 30% humidity days and nights.......65 and low humidity, not 108 and low humidity. ;).

Different varieties are of course used to certain climates, but I wonder if low humidity (within reason) is really any kind of drag, provided they have plenty of water. They'll just need to drink more, faster.
 
#138
Harpua88 said:
Oh I wish we had a lot of 30% humidity days and nights.......65 and low humidity, not 108 and low humidity. ;).

Different varieties are of course used to certain climates, but I wonder if low humidity (within reason) is really any kind of drag, provided they have plenty of water. They'll just need to drink more, faster.
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Im assuming yes they can drink faster but that might stress them or make the nutrient uptake less efficient because they need more pure water without anything else. You know when you have your seedling and you cover it with half a plastic bottle? The principle is the same, lowering the burden on the roots (in this case the small, main root)
 
#139
Low humidity is going to need low temps to keep VPD in ranges for stomata. High heat needs higher humidity for proper VPD.
 
#140
Bdubs said:
Low humidity is going to need low temps to keep VPD in ranges for stomata. High heat needs higher humidity for proper VPD.
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Yes didnt think about that. "Cold" temperatures allow more moisture condensation in the plants when the air has low humidity.
 
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