My first grow

[kolah]

My first go-round with a grow. I built a 10x12 greenhouse.

I bought 4 clones from a MMC, Jillybean, Northern Lights, Skunk 1 and DJ Short Blueberry. I planted them in Happy Frogggie soil for now. They all took the transplant well except NL. She looks a bit weak and droopy. The other 3 are soaring nicely.

I also planted some beans:

Pakistani Kush/ G-13 all 6 seeds popped in 3 days
"Bullfrog " which is NYCD/ G13 all 6 seeds popped in 2 days
Balthazar (ECSD/Deep Hash) all 8 seeds popped in 3 days

Mojo (White Widow/NL) Have not popped, its been 3 weeks and nothing.
SFV Kush, None of them popped, planted 3 weeks ago

All beans were planted in potting soil 1/2 deep. I will post some pics tonight. I am curious to see how the bean-spouted mj grows in comparision to the clones.

I am growing up high in the Rockies at 9300 ft above sea level. I hope the short growing season will be sufficient enough to get mature buds. The clones are about 12' tall and the beans just popped through the soil surface.

 

[chickenman]

Suggestion... Make sure your g house is well ventelated during the heat of day.Its a must to have air moving in and out and 2 fans moving air around inside..at that elevation come fall you may wish to heat or cover plants at night if theres a freeze warning you should do just fine even if it gets cold...I was shocked last year in our house, some plants werent ready till December

 

[rockymtnbuds]

Large black buckets or drums filled with water will heat up during the day and help keep the GH warm at night. Beats paying to run a heater.
I don't know who you got the "mojo" from but thats not Mojo. The real Mojo is Hawaiian Delight x AK47 x Pacifica and she'll ring your bell big time lol.

 

[kolah]

Thanks for the warming tips. I have no electric up here but do have some good ventilation windows and we get a nice breeze here. Temps in the day in the GH are 80,90 but nights dip into the low 50's right now.

Mojo? The seed packet I acquired said Mojo on it. Got it from a Sonic drive thru <wink> lol. I googled "Mojo mmj" online and a site stated it was WW and NL. Sounds as thought that is incorrect.

 

[kolah]

my clones are looking funky-shitty. My seed sprouts look super. Any suggestions whats wrong with these clones and possible solutions. If these fuckers are infested I'd rather ditch them them now then ruin my new bean sprouts which are about 4 days old. Heres some pics. I used Happy Froggie soil and am watering with 6.5 well water. These are in my greenhouse. Northern Lights is first, she looks limp, weak and just not vibrant. Next is Dj Blueberry and the lower leaves are browned and curling. Then my Skunk #1 has one burnt? leaf and a few outer edges of the leaves are rusty colored. JillyBean is last and has a odd pale yellow color to it. I just transplanted them a week ago.(click on photos to enlarge the view).

 

[DoobyScoo]

Tap pH may be a little low. May need nutes.
I usually feed them water straight at 7.0-7.8, de-chloraminated.
Happy Frog doesn't have the same amount of nutes in it as FFOF. One reason people like it for seedlings, small veg, is that HF doesn't burn the little ones.
2 cents.

 

[kolah]

What is the best way to up my water pH?

Should I test soil pH?

That yellow Jillybean does not look good...unless thats normal for that strain.

Whats FFOF, Scoob?

 

[kolah]

a few more pics

1st pic: Skunk 1
2nd: NL (lacking Viagra?)
3rd Jillybeaner (I shut the flash off on my camera.) She looks a bit better

but the new shoots on all the girls look ok, yes?

 

[kolah]

a few more: DJ BB, Skunk 1 and DJ BB again.

 

[DoobyScoo]

FFOF Fox Farm Ocean Forest, as opposed to Hippy Fig or Lite Worrier.
Checked it out, Happy Frog has nutes, light warrior doesn't.

pH is my first guess. I always had N lockout when using water in the Hydro range of 5.5-6.5, soil likes it higher, 7.0-8.0 has been my experience. But some depends on how much buffers you have in the soil (like lime, oyster shell, ect.)

What were the cuts gifted to you in? Medium and size? Sometimes there is a shock between mating different systems and nutes, also transplant shock is possible.

Edit: And running well water you want to be sure to have constant pH monitoring (cheap liquid test is fine). And get it tested yearly for metals content. Well water is great because it doesn't have any microbial killing Chlorine or Chloramine in it, but it also isn't conditioned at any water distribution facility.
If you water is at +300 ppm, some companies make a 'hardwater' nute formula.

It's from another site, but start with the form.
That will give us a bunch more info.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

pH up. I don't know of organics besides ammendments like lime or oyster shell (chicken feed, calcium carbonate), but I just use store bought liquid pH up for adjusting water.

And if you want to spend the money to test your soil pH, check out your local CSU Extension Office for questions about your Planting Bed Soil.

 

[kolah]

popped beaners: Pakistani Kush/G-13

 

[kolah]

I hope y'all can follow this

FFOF Fox Farm Ocean Forest, as opposed to Hippy Fig or Lite Worrier.
Checked it out, Happy Frog has nutes, light warrior doesn't.

>>>>>yeah the gal at the local grow shop said Froggy should have enough nutes in it for 35-45 days.


pH is my first guess. I always had N lockout when using water in the Hydro range of 5.5-6.5, soil likes it higher, 7.0-8.0 has been my experience. But some depends on how much buffers you have in the soil (like lime, oyster shell, ect.)

>>>>>>>> cool, good info thanks.

What were the cuts gifted to you in? Medium and size? Sometimes there is a shock between mating different systems and nutes, also transplant shock is possible.

>>>>The cuts were not the greatest and did have some small lower leaves curled and yellowed. They were in beer cups with slits in the bottom. They sprayed them with Deem? Neem? before they bagged them for me. The MMC dudue said it may take 2 weeks of shock after I transplant them before they come to life.

Edit: And running well water you want to be sure to have constant pH monitoring (cheap liquid test is fine). And get it tested yearly for metals content. Well water is great because it doesn't have any microbial killing Chlorine or Chloramine in it, but it also isn't conditioned at any water distribution facility.
If you water is at +300 ppm, some companies make a 'hardwater' nute formula.

>>>>>>I bought the liquid Ph tester for water (16 bucks worth). I wonder if I could use it to test the soil. I have a natural flowing artesian well on my 27 acres. Maybe a good test would be beneficial..since I have been drinking it for 5 years now, lol.

It's from another site, but start with the form.
That will give us a bunch more info.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

>>>will do, Bub!

pH up. I don't know of organics besides ammendments like lime or oyster shell (chicken feed, calcium carbonate), but I just use store bought liquid pH up for adjusting water.

>>>I saw the liquid ph adjusters in the local grow shop, I will get some asap

And if you want to spend the money to test your soil pH, check out your local CSU Extension Office for questions about your Planting Bed Soil.

>>>10-4, Roger that. Thanks for the help!

 

[kolah]

My Northern Light clone is dying. She's on her last breaths I think. I put her in the shade. I may try a dash of fish fertilizer as a last resort.

My Skunk 1 is looking good and growing big, a huge difference in just 2 days, holy shit. I think the Jillybean is still shocky from the transplants as is the DJ BB.

My new beaners are doing great. I have higher hopes for these in comparison to my storebought clones.

 

[kolah]

46 F in the GH at 6 AM. dammit! :)

 

[kolah]

I had to destroy my Northern Light clone. 20 bucks down the tubes.

My Jillybean never took either, another clone and yes, I bought it from the same place as the NL. another 20 skins.

My two other clones I bought from a different MMC (Skunk 1 and DJ BB) are doing nicely. Very nicely.

I planted a bunch of beans (thank you RMB) and they are looking excellent. Nights up here have been below 50 degrees, kind of a bummer for growth. I may put in a small propane heater...esp once fall comes.

as to the two shitty clones I bought: They sprayed the fuck out of them with Neem? when I bought them. Is it possible you can OD them with the stuff? They didn't look all that great anyway..I shouldn't have bought them.
Do I call the MMC up and tell them about it or say fuck it?

All in all, I am a bit concerned as it is almost July and the grow season will be short. Well this is my first grow. I think next year I will start my plants much earlier.

 

[Seamaiden]

Kolah, in my opinion you would do better if you started working with more microbes instead of worrying about throwing more nutrients at the plants. The pH of the water out of your well is ideal for soil (6.5-6.8 is a great range for soil), however, if you're working the soil food web and microbes you don't even need to concern yourself with it, let alone have to fuck around with it. Keep It Simple with soil.

Top-dressing with dolomitic (aka ag) lime will help to not only buffer, but provide CaCO3 and MgCO3, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, respectively. Doing the same with, say, chicken shit (as long as it's not stinky, that means it's too hot), worm castings, alfalfa would also accomplish a longer, slower feeding that would provide a bit more nitrogen.

If the days are getting warmer than 55F, then the seedlings should, and in my experience will, grow just fine. Cool nights aren't so much the problem as the soil never warming up sufficiently is. I've got my seed starts outside, nights are in the 45F range, and now that it's begun warming up during the daytime they are taking OFF.

I run off a well and I not only make no adjustments, but all landscape and agricultural watering bypasses filtration (except for the particulate matter filtration at the spigot). The biggest problem I have is blossom-end rot on my squashes IF they're grown in the sand-filter bed (planter over a septic sand filter). Top-dressing dolomitic lime straightens them out every time. Surprising, considering the incredibly high carbonate hardness and general hardness levels, as that water comes out around 8.0 from the tap, sometimes even higher.

Worm castings--tea and top-dressings, are my best advice for those girls, along with pretty much any seaweed or kelp product. There are those people who are really stuck on a species and process method, but I have found that they are ALL beneficial. Also, humic acid, whether powdered or liquid, will go a very long way toward helping ensure your ladies can use whatever nutrition you're offering them.

 

[kolah]

Thanks for the help, Seamaiden.

I used Happy Frog soil for all the clones and my beans. All the others are doing nice.

I know zilch about "microbes" so I guess I will have to read up on them.

Temps up here at 9300 ft are 80-90's in the greenhouse but still dipping to 45-48 at night. By July it will be warmer at nights but I worry that once they flower and Sept. hits the nights will be too cold.

The two shitty clones I have are/were pathetic. I pulled the NL out to inspect the roots and found nothing abnormal. I looked for bugs and wierd shit with a magnifying glass. Nothing. I haven't trashed the jillybean yet so maybe I will try some dolometic lime. I also have plenty of aged horse manure. Should I top dress with both?

We have a little grow store with lots of products. I will take a drive and see what they got. I was bummed to lose my NL plant.

 

[kolah]

One more thing. The NL and JB were clones started in those square blocks of rockwool and a lot of wood chip looking stuff and were in plastic beer cups with a few holes in the bottom. The other 2 clones were in soil.

I got 4 sprouted beans of Pakistani/G13 popping up and I hope to get some girls otta them....also some ECSD/G13.

For my first grow maybe I am taking on a bit too much.

 

[Seamaiden]

I honestly don't think it matters what your elevation is, your day/night & high/low temperatures are damn near exactly what I'm experiencing, and have been experiencing since I began growing up here. Would you like pix of previous grows to see what's possible in what are damn near the same conditions (relative humidity likely excepted, as I understand it the Rockies are seriously DRY, not so in the western scarp of the Sierra Nevada range)? I always end up harvesting mid-October, no matter when they went into the ground, simply because of weather. The concern at that stage, for me, isn't whether or not it's cold (it's usually pretty cold by then), but about the wind and rain--both of which will snap the ladies all to pieces if you haven't accounted for it and provided plenty of support. It's truly not the problem so many make it out to be (cold). Once the branches are heavy with leaf matter and/or buds, and there's sufficient moisture in the air or it's raining, they'll snap, that's a problem.

I personally would be careful with the horse manure unless it's very well aged, same with almost any poop except worm castings. I wouldn't be surprised if you could make an awesome tea from it, and if the manure is from horses being fed good alfalfa then you've got a great pile of crap to work with there (same with bunny poo). You can also make a tea with alfalfa, I use hay itself but lots of people prefer to work with meal, that helps provide lots of N, triacontanol and they always respond very well after such an application.

There are a few sources of mycorrhizae, I purchase mine through our nearest garden center in the form of Dr. Earth Organic mixes. Gardener & Bloom also make very similar mixes, but I prefer Dr. Earth overall. You could also try Great White, something I haven't used but from everything I've read does appear to truly be live, viable microbes.

Did you know that Aspirin Water Helps Plants? Another one for the arsenal.

 

[Bud Spleefman]

I'm up at 9500 and my outdoor plants don't look so good because the RELATIVE HUMIDITY (RH) is like 15% and it's been that way for a week............ maybe Kolah is having the same issues, heck, all outdoor growers on the side of a mountain probably are...........