LaneStrainley
- Posts
- 12
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- Joined
- Nov 1, 2020
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- 13
I use it lights on no sweat, just turn your lights down, It works. Just make sure your water is low ppm and 6.0ph. Make what you need and use it right there and then.Hey Lane, thanks for the tip. This tip is why I came on here and started posting. Grow experts galore are here just waiting to help. The next time I have mites, I'm trying this. I may just add this to my pesticide protocol and use every grow. Is it safe to use with the lights on? It should be since there is no oil. What do you think?
Lane, when I start my clones, I use water 5.5ph,6ppm, aka r/o water. I use a hose filter to decrease chlorine and chloramines after the clones are rooted. Thanks brother, keep it coming.I use it lights on no sweat, just turn your lights down, It works. Just make sure your water is low ppm and 6.0ph. Make what you need and use it right there and then.
This works, i also use vitamin c to break the bond in the chloramine before I run it through my filters.I use a hose filter to decrease chlorine and chloramine
This works, i also use vitamin c to break the bond in the chloramine before I run it through my filters.
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I never heard of that. I'm buying a new water filter for the greenhouse. The one I'm using now is a reducer, this new filter filters 99% of contaminants. It's four times the cost of the ones I have now.
A product called Nuke 'Em seems to work pretty well, without resistance building up. It's just a citric acid solution, so if you have access to more concentrated chemicals, you can just dilute it and avoid the rip off price.That is the worst, I feel for ya man. I fought them for years, they just kept coming back. I tried everything, then I started mixing 1.25 ml 29% peroxide per 1 L in a 4L sprayer, i just sprayed everthing twice a day for about 2 weeks.
That was about 5 years ago, I just spray that same solution once every 2 days over the mothers, fathers, veg and early flower. I haven't seen them since. Its been a life saver, I've even fixed my Virginia Creepers with this method.
I prefer this to sulfer burners, Safers End All, Avid and various long chain fatty acids amongst the many others that I've tried. Peroxide is the only one that you can use with a high frequency to match the mites life cycle, as soon as they start to come out of their eggs the peroxide oxidizes them. You can watch it happen under a scope :)
Couple this with DE and its very hard to beat.
Ive learned a ton about them, they can switch their genomes (or dna helix, i forget the mechanics of it) to become resistant to chemicals, that's why you have to keep changing pesticides, not with the peroxide. The eggs are still left viable though, that's why in 2 days you spray again, and again in 2 more and so one and so forth until you win.
I really hopes this helps you. I fucking hates those assholes, its like they are from outer space.
Cheers.
Yeah, the cold has been stressing my plants out. I'm getting beautiful winter colors though. It's been in the 30'sF at night now. I have one blue dream and one Banana OG crossed with Sheeliwathi. They are in severe cold shock right now. I'm not concerned. I'm not ready to veg right now anyway so it's not a big deal. I have clones doing there thing and they will not be ready to veg until eom. I placed a heater in my greenhouse. It keeps it from getting too cold now. I also removed my automatic vent opener to try to keep it toasty 24/7. My shitty clones are loving it now. I had to put them to flower to avoid the solstice in March.Novice, grain of salt. If your garage is 30-40 at night might be the problem. I was letting mine get below 60 at night until I read that plants need to be at 68F or warmer for moving glucose down and Nutes up. I set my min to 65 since the lights boost the temp. Worst case they have a few hours below 68F.
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