Mycostop Anyone Using It?

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C

CoCultivator

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I got a discount code for it after ordering from VivaGrow, "Loyalty10" should get you a 10% discount on whatever they have. Free ship too.
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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Let me know you're experience with it. The most off putting thing to me is they say you're supposed to use up the entire package when you open it/ keep it in the freezer with all the air sucked out. So if I bought the 100g or whatever size it is, would I loose most of the active ingredients of you will by pulling it out of the freezer and opening regularly for a couple of grams....

Shit seems to work, just don't know if I can justify buying it in the small packs because of price & not sure if the big container will hold up in the freezer for a long period
 
C

CoCultivator

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You for sure don't have to use it all in one shot, the guy at VivaGrow and his partner at AgBio are the importers for it in the US. They said just to seal up the remaining Mycostop airtight and put it in the freezer to be sure, but there haven't been any problems. I just fold the foil packet up and put it in a ziplock. It's an inert product so unless you subject it to extreme heat you are fine, the VivaGrow guy uses it in is DWC system that way. The biggest packs they have are 25g's but they will make you a deal on more if you call or email they said.
 
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F

FooDoo

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I use RO and a chiller and I still need to use mycostop. My next question though is why is CCh20 recommending live cultures I believe next they will be offering there own version of the heisenerg tea.

Because they love milking their customers. First they sell everyone bleach water for 100$/gal and then they see everyone going to teas so now they'll say live is better than sterile and charge a ridiculous amount for their teas and when we question why its so expensive they'll just throw words at you like chelated or secret formula.
 
notpatient

notpatient

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I fully agree , they're trying to pull the wool over peoples heads here again. I think you were in a sterile post a few months back and I think you were the person that said " 1 ml of bleach per 50 gl " I am deathly afraid to try this. And how often should this amouth be added ?
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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I fully agree , they're trying to pull the wool over peoples heads here again. I think you were in a sterile post a few months back and I think you were the person that said " 1 ml of bleach per 50 gl " I am deathly afraid to try this. And how often should this amouth be added ?

That was me. I still stand by that as do my results. Zero funk in my tanks. But if my scary bleach water threw you off, then I am sure a nicely labeled bottle with the title "ZONE" would make it totally more legit. LOL! Definitely not for the faint of heart I guess. In all seriousness though, try it in a little bubblebucket for yourself and let me know what you think. The addback is about every 5-7 days but you have to really know your ppms and water. Everyone knows I am all about that perfect water. What I find amusing about this "tea" business is that there is a landscaping company near me that uses "bio organic teas" as their sales pitch. I will be goddamned if I want my yard smelling like that shit, let alone smoke any of it. I guess I am not a fan of poop by proxy. Who knows, maybe I one day when I decide to try my own organic "tea" experiment, I may like it. But until then I will continue to poke the hippies with sharp sticks.
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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I stopped using chlorine
Yeah, the next thing you will tell us is that you don't even grow anymore. It must be nice to live in an area where your water AND environment are that dialed in for you. The rest of us schmucks have to keep ice skating uphill on those areas. By the way it is good seeing you around here again my friend.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I think you might want to read this. I can no longer use my aerocloner because it develops a thick gray slime that, quite literally, no amount of Cl in any form I have found available to me will kill. In fact, the last time I tried to use it, the more I added the thicker the slime got. Then, recently, I read this thread and had my mind blown. If it's just Cl bleach that does the trick, then why my experience and why this?

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...reliability-aero-style-cloning-methods.75631/
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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It sounds to me like there is something nasty hiding out in your cloner. Without knowing your setup, my first guess is that your cloner needs a top down serialization. Also are you getting any of the same slime elsewhere in your system or just the cloner? BTW tell me about your cloner and how you propagate.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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You're not the only one, I'm not gettin' it either.
It sounds to me like there is something nasty hiding out in your cloner. Without knowing your setup, my first guess is that your cloner needs a top down serialization. Also are you getting any of the same slime elsewhere in your system or just the cloner? BTW tell me about your cloner and how you propagate.
Read what MGRox found. The nasty thing 'hiding' in my cloner is bacteria, slime-forming bacteria. And they thrive on stuff like Cl. I've used isopropyl alcohol, Physan 20, regular household chlorine bleach, Pool Shock bleach (at triple the recommended dose). I get the slime *just* in the cloner, when I clone using soil or perlite I don't get slime, only in this cloner (it's a homemade dealio). The only thing I haven't tried, and probably won't at this point, is a broad spectrum antibiotic, or an autoclave.

I can't describe the feelings... disgust, wonderment, horror, that I felt when I had hit triple dosing and the slime got worse, and thicker, like it was eating and enjoying the Pool Shock. On one hand it was kinda cool, but on the other, I wanna fucking clone!

I use a clean razor blade that's washed in iso between each cut. When I was using the aerocloner I just added about 250ppm of veg nutes at most, or plain water, no rooting hormones or anything like that. I was told to keep it warm, but when the slime started I thought perhaps that warmth was the problem so I took out the heater. But even keeping it at 65*F hasn't done much, just slowed down when the slime begins to form.

I'm also flummoxed that it survives being soaked for DAYS in 91% iso. And then I turn on the pump, so that I can get everything treated.

I don't run any other hydro, unless you count coir or perlite as hydro.
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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Tell me more about your aerocloner. Is it all DIY parts or is it a name brand hybrid. What kind of pumps/stones/sprayers are you using and are they the same ones that you had when the slime came to town? Pics would help a lot. But just from what you are describing, there is something in your cloner that is contaminated that you need to get out.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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All DIY, including the little plastic bin with its lid drilled full of holes. I've had to replace some parts, mostly sprayers, and I'm currently using the pump for some bluegill I have in quarantine, so it's busy right now. I've actually kinda dismantled a lot of the stuff since this last time. I'll look to see if I got pix but just think of something like stalactites of gray slime.

Would it make a difference if it's a name brand? I've literally submerged and soaked everything in an effort to ensure all areas of possible contamination have been hit, along with running for several hours with treatments in situ to further that effort.

Have you read that thread yet? Any comments on what's been presented there?
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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Okay so here is what I have gathered from the sources listed by MGRox. One is a company called Special Pathogens Labs and the page that was cited was nothing but a sales/marketing pitch for their water testing services. They do not list any scientific data on the subject and state that their proprietary testing method using SLYM-BART™ Biological Activity Reaction Test for Slime Producing Bacteria. Manufacturer: Droycon Bioconcepts Inc. Saskatchewan, Canada is semi-quantitative. They are a private company that is profit driven, so there's that to consider. Also, the post by MGRox continues on without mention of other sources of scientific data, only OP's personal conclusions on the subject matter. The videos listed as well were just quick primers for a YouTube audience that has a normal attention span of about 2-4 minutes. You are not going to condense the subject of biofilms, botany, and bacteria into a 3 minute video for mass consumption. I don't care how smart you are. These are complex and individual issues that take years to learn and study. This is not something as simple like using YouTube to learn how to change a spark plug or some other DIY lesson. So with that being said, let me address your immediate issue.
Ditch your cloner. All of it. It will be of more use in the landfill than anything you can ever use it for again. Your cloning system has been infected and if there is one thing I have learned is that because of the porous nature of plastics, there are virtual canyons that bacteria can hide in no matter what you clean it with and no matter how long you clean it. Once a system gets infected, it will just be a matter of time until it comes back. Again. And again. And again. Ad nauseam. Every time you scrub, you create a microscopic scratch that the nasties go hide it. Inside the pump is also a nice place. Hoses and sprayers too. I am sure none of this is something you want to hear, however I see this all too much in this culture and for some people, the concept of just throwing it out and starting fresh is completely unheard of. Well, since you did not buy an overpriced name brand system, your cost of replacement will be a lot less. So there's that. If I seem to recall, you don't use R/O water correct? Well, now is the time to start. And you are going to want to keep it chilled. Like 65-68 degrees chilled. I have a DIY cloner myself and I keep mine on a Titan Controls 702635 Apollo 3 Fixed Cycle Timer. It keeps a lot of the heat out of the system. I also run a 3/8" x 25' Stainless Steel Wort Chiller off of my chiller manifold to keep temps right where I want them. I also pre-treat my source water from the R/O for 24 hours with by keeping it chilled as well as a constant circulation through a Pondmaster 20 watt UV sterilizer as well as aerated. From there, I run the water to its respectable systems and THEN I add my nutes. I may seem anal about how I handle my water, but so are those that run organic soil mediums as well and nobody bats an eye at them. It is my theory that your medium is what makes or breaks a grow, so I see no logic in skimping on the money or labor when it comes to the foundation of any grow. Because let's face it. A lost crop sucks. It sucks even harder when you learn that you could have prevented it.
 
MGRox

MGRox

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@DapperDon
I'm surprised your able to even make posts as it would seem the chip on your shoulder would be to large to allow any sight.

There's this term people use when explaining thing's called "laymen's" terminology. The link provided (italicized) as well as the you tube video's were to provide a quick overview of biofilms and how they ARE looked at, in many industries separate. Also, how they DO require different methods for treatment. I know you probably don't agree with any of the other industries that have already gone down this path (medical, papermilling, wastewater, pool, spas, fracking etc); but that is your right to do.

I did not provide links to all the papers (nor have I in other recent separate posts) as I felt it tended to draw people away from the information; or rather to clutter something when not necessary. As well, the fact that you can find an absolute ton of information on this subject, easily. It is often mentioned on this site to "use the search bar"; if you happen to have a couple minutes to look on google, you will see that there is no contradiction in any information I posted.
I brought forth that they need to be treated separate; Fact. I brought forth that Chlorine does not work well, if at all (along with biocides) against biofilms; Fact. I brought forth some possible methods of dealing with this, taken from research into papermilling industry and wastewater; fact. If you have issue on those counts, you may need to speak to the scientists that have resolved to application of treatment methods for their situation.
Again, with this particular subject there is NO variability in success with treatment methods (most technically there is one wastewater treatment plant that used ultrasonification; though I am not going to provide a link. So it must be a lie).

I ended by providing and stating only "what may work". I did not say, as I've not personally yet tested them; whether they WILL work or not. We can obviously rule OUT that Chlorine or bulk sterilization works. (was running 2ppm Cl when bioflims occured in my setup along with sea results and many others)
The intent with the post was to create an area to discuss methods of treatment to increase reliability; via treatment (if possible) versus replacement or "throwing away" the problem.

People often learn by finding and making connections with things and working together with others. It can be quite tough to learn things when a person only tries to find what's wrong with others; despite it having nothing to do with validity of content.

Moving on;
Without knowing your setup, my first guess is that your cloner needs a top down serialization.
there is something in your cloner that is contaminated that you need to get out.
Then
Ditch your cloner. All of it. It will be of more use in the landfill than anything you can ever use it for again. Your cloning system has been infected
Contradict yourself much?

To finish by saying throw it out because there is no way to clean it, if it were true; would negate any potential positives of running ANY aero based hydro system with plastics or...lol surfaces (cloners, ,NFT, UC etc). So the papermill needs to throw out their equipment when it gets infected? So the wastewater treatment plant needs to be torn down to build another? So the fracking industry just has to frack somewhere else?

You know, at first I just figured you hadn't actually seen biofilms yet and just only had seen fungus or cyano's. At least, seeing your comment that "it will just be a matter of time until it comes back. Again. And again. And again. Ad nauseam" Does at least let us know that you have seen biofilm related issues.
You know.....thinking about it; that sure sounds a lot like;
One could even argue that it is still an inevitability regardless of cleaning method; given enough time.
If only there has been some research done somewhere that would have any idea how to treat this............


Last,
UV Sterilization will work only on water that has not been mixed with any form of nutrient solution.
D'oh! So you are saying that all the applications of ultraviolet sterilization for Marine ecosystems are "doing it wrong"? Where's the links backing up this statement there, chip?
 
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