Need advice on different leaf symptoms

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Chisan

Chisan

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**UPDATE**

I decided to test my soil again. This time i took samples from closer to the middle to bottom of the pot and I got a totally different reading. The results show the soil there to be very acidic...around 5.5. The soil a couple of inches from the top still showed 7-6.7 for ph. What is the best thing I can add to bring my pH above 6.5
 
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Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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**UPDATE**

I decided to test my soil again. This time i took samples from closer to the middle to bottom of the pot and I got a totally different reading. The results show the soil there to be very acidic...around 5.5. The soil a couple of inches from the top still showed 7-6.7 for ph. What is the best thing I can add to bring my pH above 6.5
I already answered your question Monday in the post right above this one.
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Yes you did. I saw it right after I posted. Thanks
You can spread a tablespoon per gallon of pot size; eg. A 3-gallon pot would get three tablespoons, mix it in as directed on the bag into the top couple inches of soil or alternatively for a quicker response you can add it to your water I didn't recommend quicklime because you can overdo it fast and dolomite will do a fine job good luck
 
az2000

az2000

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This time i took samples from closer to the middle to bottom of the pot and I got a totally different reading. The results show the soil there to be very acidic...around 5.5. The soil a couple of inches from the top still showed 7-6.7 for ph.

Earlier you said you were going to flush. Did you do that? The reason I ask is: if it's too much nutrients in the soil (as others have said), treating that with more nutrients doesn't seem like the right direction.
 
az2000

az2000

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Yes I did flush with 2 gallons of distilled water on monday.

Maybe you weren't planning on doing the dolomite right now. But, if so, let the soil dry. If you keep it too wet that can lower its ph. I would err on the side of letting it become too dry. The container should feel alarmingly light.

It probably won't hurt to rake 1tbsp/gal (of soil) into the top of the soil, and water it in (the next time the soil's ready for watering). But, everyone (except me) thinks you overfed. If so, then the salt buildup typically acidifies the soil. After the flush, it should correct itself. If you do too many things, you're not going to know what helped/hurt (and you run the risk of watering too soon because you're eager to do more, convinced it needs your help... potentially "killing it with kindness.").

I would wait, and not even do the dolomite for awhile (if at all). I have a fairly expensive soil ph probe. What I've seen is that there can be pockets of higher/lower ph. The ph rises as it dries. So, it never looks to me like a precise thing (like a hydroponics reservoir, where it's the same ph at the top and bottom). If the top 2" of your soil is 6.5-7.0, I'd be inclined to think the lower ph (deeper) is either the soil being kept too wet too long, or salt buildup (which the flush should help). It doesn't sound like the soil is 5.5. Just the center/deeper. That's probably something else.

This is one of those things that becomes a vicious cycle. The more acidic, fewer nutrients the soil takes, which leads to more salt buildup in the soil, leading to fewer nutrients, leading to more salt buildup (the ph dropping quickly). If the flush improved that condition, it should start eating the salts in the soil and improving the condition further. (The vicious cycle in reverse).

So, I would give it some time. See what the flush did. A week? (But, very important to let the soil dry *a lot* before watering. It's very common for new growers to not know how dry that is. It's really dry. But, not to the point the leaves wilt. It's not bad to let it do that once just to see what "too dry" feels like.).
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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When used as directed I've never seen Dolomite hurt anything, but I've seen it I forgive a lot of mistakes!

Considering you've already flushed I would put a tablespoon in a gallon and add it that way as well as top dressing recommended amount into the soil

But I do agree that you're possibly over-watering, that and salt build-up likely contributed to your low pH, which hopefully the flush cleaned out and the dolomites will adjust, post some pictures when you get new growth
 
Chisan

Chisan

85
18
Maybe you weren't planning on doing the dolomite right now. But, if so, let the soil dry. If you keep it too wet that can lower its ph. I would err on the side of letting it become too dry. The container should feel alarmingly light.

It probably won't hurt to rake 1tbsp/gal (of soil) into the top of the soil, and water it in (the next time the soil's ready for watering). But, everyone (except me) thinks you overfed. If so, then the salt buildup typically acidifies the soil. After the flush, it should correct itself. If you do too many things, you're not going to know what helped/hurt (and you run the risk of watering too soon because you're eager to do more, convinced it needs your help... potentially "killing it with kindness.").

I would wait, and not even do the dolomite for awhile (if at all). I have a fairly expensive soil ph probe. What I've seen is that there can be pockets of higher/lower ph. The ph rises as it dries. So, it never looks to me like a precise thing (like a hydroponics reservoir, where it's the same ph at the top and bottom). If the top 2" of your soil is 6.5-7.0, I'd be inclined to think the lower ph (deeper) is either the soil being kept too wet too long, or salt buildup (which the flush should help). It doesn't sound like the soil is 5.5. Just the center/deeper. That's probably something else.

This is one of those things that becomes a vicious cycle. The more acidic, fewer nutrients the soil takes, which leads to more salt buildup in the soil, leading to fewer nutrients, leading to more salt buildup (the ph dropping quickly). If the flush improved that condition, it should start eating the salts in the soil and improving the condition further. (The vicious cycle in reverse).

So, I would give it some time. See what the flush did. A week? (But, very important to let the soil dry *a lot* before watering. It's very common for new growers to not know how dry that is. It's really dry. But, not to the point the leaves wilt. It's not bad to let it do that once just to see what "too dry" feels like.).
I will do exactly as you said. I wont do anything until next week and see how it responds.
 
Chisan

Chisan

85
18
When used as directed I've never seen Dolomite hurt anything, but I've seen it I forgive a lot of mistakes!

Considering you've already flushed I would put a tablespoon in a gallon and add it that way as well as top dressing recommended amount into the soil

But I do agree that you're possibly over-watering, that and salt build-up likely contributed to your low pH, which hopefully the flush cleaned out and the dolomites will adjust, post some pictures when you get new growth
Thats a good idea to mix the dolomite into the topsoil then mulch it in. Thanks everyone. Ill post the results.
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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@Chisan i guess im late to this thread but you should always check the ppms of the runoff. Properly mixed soil will self regulate the ph. I would never add lime just because of one problem or ph test.

The ppms in the runoff will show if its to many nutrients. Also the color. Clearish is good. Murky and brown is not.

Without that info none of the answers given can be sure.
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Thats a good idea to mix the dolomite into the topsoil then mulch it in. Thanks everyone. Ill post the results.
Great stuff you'll love it! my pH never drops below 6.3, if it does I hit it with another scoop, it'll save your ass over and over, but it can't stop over-watering and overfeeding so work on those practices going forward for best results, good luck!
 
Chisan

Chisan

85
18
@Chisan i guess im late to this thread but you should always check the ppms of the runoff. Properly mixed soil will self regulate the ph. I would never add lime just because of one problem or ph test.

The ppms in the runoff will show if its to many nutrients. Also the color. Clearish is good. Murky and brown is not.

Without that info none of the answers given can be sure.

Ill collect the run-off after my next watering and test it. I had it in a somewhat shady area of my yard and it looks better so I think it was having a bit of heat stress.
 
Chisan

Chisan

85
18
***UPDATE***

I watered my plant today because it was pretty dried out since our temps have been in the mid to upper 80’s. I collected some of the run off into a glass jar and tested the ph. Here are my results. I also included a pic of what the run-off water looks like.
 
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az2000

az2000

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Earlier in your thread it was suggested to measure your runoff PPMs. (<<link) Do you have a TDS/PPM pen?

It's hard to tell if the burned condition is old or new; if the yellowing small leaves is normal for this stage of life, or the plant's hungry. You just flushed recently because you think it's over fed (I still think underfed. But after flushing it should be hungry at some point.). The runoff ppms might suggest something.
 
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Chisan

Chisan

85
18
Earlier in your thread it was suggested to measure your runoff PPMs. (<<link) Do you have a TDS/PPM pen?

It's hard to tell if the burned condition is old or new; if the yellowing small leaves is normal for this stage of life, or the plant's hungry. You just flushed recently because you think it's over fed (I still think underfed. But after flushing it should be hungry at some point.). The runoff ppms might suggest something.
No I dont have a pen. Ill order one from amazon this week.
 
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