New to this and need some help please!

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Bode180

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First time grower who is running into some problems and need some help. I wanted to take the guess work out of everything and although doing my research I wanted an easy first grow experience so I went with the 5 gallon kit from a pot for pot. Have a Mars hydro 27”x27” tent kit off Amazon with the ts1000 light, in-line fan and carbon filter, and a small oscillation fan moving air around. Run a 18/6 light and oscillating schedule while the in-line fan runs 24/7. Started my grow at the beginning of September, I live in the northeast and the tent is in my shed, using Girl Scout cookies auto flower. Have followed a pot for pots instructions to a tee and everything has been fine until I hit the flowering stage and the temperatures dropped overnight. The leaves are wilted and extremely dry to the touch but still green in color. Have followed the 1 liter of water every 2 days instruction to keep the pot moist but not soaked so I don’t think it’s an overwatering/underwatering. Every leaf looks tired, I have the light up to max, I thought it might be the cold so I got a space heater to put in the shed to keep the temp above 50 at a minimum. The heater is set to 60 but with temps falling to the upper 30s in an uninsulated shed it’s hard to hold the temp there. I control the space heater via wifi and have never seen the temp fall below 52 at night so hopefully this will help. I know it is far from ideal and the yield and potency will suffer but I’d still like to salvage what I can. Should I not run the oscillating fan because of the cooler temps and just the in-line fan? Any and all help is appreciated and thank for being patient if it sounds like I don’t know what I’m doing because I don’t but want to learn. Thank you again.
 
New to this and need some help please
New to this and need some help please 2
New to this and need some help please 3
mysticepipedon

mysticepipedon

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You have two big problems: low %RH and improper watering.

If this is in an uninsulated, heated shed in the winter, your %RH is going to be insanely low. Turn off your oscillating fan and look into getting a humidifier. I have no idea how well humidifiers work in uninsulated sheds, so best of luck.

In addition, 1 liter every 2 days for a pot that size sounds like the instructions were written by a fucking shit-for-brains. I don't know anything about the media Pot For Pot uses. I imagine it's soil, but I can't say. Regardless, read this primer on proper watering technique: https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/w...-size-shape-and-environment-affect-it.126852/ You aren't watering enough when you water and you are watering too often.

Best of luck here. The media Pot for Pot provided looks like it is doing well enough for you, but those watering instructions... yikes. In all fairness, I don't think they expected a semi-outdoor grow in winter, but still.
 
Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
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I’d move the plant to one side and put that heater in the tent on the opposite side with the oscillating fan blowing the hot air around the plant and put a pot of water or bucket in front or near the fan to try a raise the rh if that doesn’t work get a small humidifier but you need that heat making sure the temps stay at least above 72 degrees during lights on and above 62 degrees lights off. I dont know much about the pot to pot grow set up you have but next time try using fox farms or roots organic soil it’s super simple to grow in those soils
 
Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
93
First time grower who is running into some problems and need some help. I wanted to take the guess work out of everything and although doing my research I wanted an easy first grow experience so I went with the 5 gallon kit from a pot for pot. Have a Mars hydro 27”x27” tent kit off Amazon with the ts1000 light, in-line fan and carbon filter, and a small oscillation fan moving air around. Run a 18/6 light and oscillating schedule while the in-line fan runs 24/7. Started my grow at the beginning of September, I live in the northeast and the tent is in my shed, using Girl Scout cookies auto flower. Have followed a pot for pots instructions to a tee and everything has been fine until I hit the flowering stage and the temperatures dropped overnight. The leaves are wilted and extremely dry to the touch but still green in color. Have followed the 1 liter of water every 2 days instruction to keep the pot moist but not soaked so I don’t think it’s an overwatering/underwatering. Every leaf looks tired, I have the light up to max, I thought it might be the cold so I got a space heater to put in the shed to keep the temp above 50 at a minimum. The heater is set to 60 but with temps falling to the upper 30s in an uninsulated shed it’s hard to hold the temp there. I control the space heater via wifi and have never seen the temp fall below 52 at night so hopefully this will help. I know it is far from ideal and the yield and potency will suffer but I’d still like to salvage what I can. Should I not run the oscillating fan because of the cooler temps and just the in-line fan? Any and all help is appreciated and thank for being patient if it sounds like I don’t know what I’m doing because I don’t but want to learn. Thank you again.
Do you have lights on during the day or at night?
 
TSD

TSD

1,537
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It's definitely unhappy with the less than ideal environment, and from the looks of the swollen leaves, overwaterd as well. They need a dry period in between and in those conditions, there's no way it's drying out that fast and the plant probably isn't using much water either because it's slowed down. Plants cannot carry out thier processes in temperatures of approximately 50 or below, they come to a halt and just survive. I would try to get a small heater in there, they make tiny infrared ones. Maybe you could also line the outside with some insulation board or something? Maybe you could wrap a heat mat, like for seedlings, around thr pot at night to at least keep the roots warm? There's a million ways to MacGyver a setup, but you gotta get that poor girl warmer and get your watering right, even get a cheap moisture meter to stab in the bottom third of the pot to monitor it. Good luck!
 
Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
93
I have the lights on during the day from 5 to 11, I thought about switching the light cycle to have it run throughout the night and off during the warmest part of the day which are still in the 60’s. Do you think that would help?
That’s what I do during the colder months of the year then I switch it when it hotter parts of the year so your always using the environment to help you not work against you. You could but wouldn’t do it in one day. I wouldn’t, she’s already stressed, I wouldn’t add any more to her. Just do it next run. Right now just try and get the temps to what I said previously and make sure your pot is dry before every watering. You do those two things I thing she’ll make to the end. Bc she looks healthy she’s just wet and cold
 
mysticepipedon

mysticepipedon

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I have the lights on during the day from 5 to 11, I thought about switching the light cycle to have it run throughout the night and off during the warmest part of the day which are still in the 60’s. Do you think that would help?
As long as no one will see light coming through cracks in the walls of the shed, running the lights at night would be a good idea.

I used to have a grow "room" inside an uninsulated attic, and running lights during the night and off during the day made it possible. The plants would have frozen to death at night, otherwise.

BTW, if you look at the leaves on the upper part of the plant, they are not fully expanded. This is a sign that the plant isn't taking water in fast enough. It could be from several causes, in your case it's probably mostly that low %RH. In other situations, it can happen when someone over waters and the roots stop functioning properly (they need oxygen as well as water to take in water) or if someone isn't watering enough or watering improperly.
 
Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
93
As long as no one will see light coming through cracks in the walls of the shed, running the lights at night would be a good idea.

I used to have a grow "room" inside an uninsulated attic, and running lights during the night and off during the day made it possible. The plants would have frozen to death at night, otherwise.

BTW, if you look at the leaves on the upper part of the plant, they are not fully expanded. This is a sign that the plant isn't taking water in fast enough. It could be from several causes, in your case it's probably mostly that low %RH. In other situations, it can happen when someone over waters and the roots stop functioning properly (they need oxygen as well as water to take in water) or if someone isn't watering enough or watering improperly.
Yeah it’s probably water logged Bc of the temps and the soil not being able to fully dry in between waterings. She’s going into a dormant stage or survival stage until things get corrected but if not soon she will die from the roots up
 
B

Bode180

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The space heater in the shed is actually walk mounted so I have a small ceramic space heater coming tomorrow that I’ll place in one corner with the plant in the other. Also picked up a 3 way moisture, light, and ph reader to help with the overwatering. It’s on a scale of 1-10, do I wait until it’s in the red (1,2,3) to rewater? I will also hang a wet towel from the top of the tent or bowl of water in an attempt to raise the RH levels. If things turn around over the next few days, fingers crossed, do you recommend switching the light cycle to run at night? Turn on at 6pm and off at 12pm? If not because she’s already under stress how would this switch increase the stress on the plant? Only reason I ask is I’ve seen some growers use a 24/0 light cycle on auto flowers and just curious how the switch would put more stress on her. Once again that you for all your help, much appreciated.
 
Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
93
That’s great with the heater and towel anything should help. I water be picking up the pot, you can tell when you need to water. The pot is really light compared to when you water. Feel the difference so you get use to it. How many weeks left until harvest? Yeah autos are completely different than photos. If she was healthy I’d just leave her dark until the desired lights on time. But make sure she doesn’t get more than 12 hours of light or she might try to revert to veg or hermie on you. But since she’s stressed I wouldn’t do it now but you could do it and she might be fine just up to you what you wanna do
 
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Bode180

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That’s great with the heater and towel anything should help. I water be picking up the pot, you can tell when you need to water. The pot is really light compared to when you water. Feel the difference so you get use to it. How many weeks left until harvest? Yeah autos are completely different than photos. If she was healthy I’d just leave her dark until the desired lights on time. But make sure she doesn’t get more than 12 hours of light or she might try to revert to veg or hermie on you. But since she’s stressed I wouldn’t do it now but you could do it and she might be fine just up to you what you wanna do
Might give it a shot once things turn around. Should be around 4-6 weeks until harvest.
 
B

Bode180

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Over night there seems to be a bit of an improvement by moving the tent closer to the space heater, putting a bowl of water inside the tent, and shutting off the oscillating fan. It never got below 58 and the humidity was up around 63%.During today it was able to get up to 74 with 55% humidity with only the in-line fan running. I put the space heater in the tent and ran it for about a half hour and within that time the temp jumped to 88 degrees and the humidity dropped to 41. Seems like I’m not going to be able to find a balance here.

Is it better to have higher temps and super low humidity or better but not great humidity with better but not great temperature?
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

3,089
263
It's definitely unhappy with the less than ideal environment, and from the looks of the swollen leaves, overwaterd as well. They need a dry period in between and in those conditions, there's no way it's drying out that fast and the plant probably isn't using much water either because it's slowed down. Plants cannot carry out thier processes in temperatures of approximately 50 or below, they come to a halt and just survive. I would try to get a small heater in there, they make tiny infrared ones. Maybe you could also line the outside with some insulation board or something? Maybe you could wrap a heat mat, like for seedlings, around thr pot at night to at least keep the roots warm? There's a million ways to MacGyver a setup, but you gotta get that poor girl warmer and get your watering right, even get a cheap moisture meter to stab in the bottom third of the pot to monitor it. Good luck!
Actually some strains begin to slow down growth in the low 60's ... 50's would be significantly worse. Cold weather can also bring on other issues like mold. I Think your best option would be to run your exhaust ventilation through a temperature controller and allow your oscillating fans to circulate 24/7.

It looks like your fabric pot is actually sitting inside the saucer. Consider a plant elevator like this one here: https://hydropros.com/products/gro-...MIvcmmndT0-gIVw8fICh0bqQ1LEAQYASABEgKNgvD_BwE The link is for reference. You might have a better source.

27" x 27" is a pretty small tent. Inside in my basement, I use a 20" x 48" seedling mat through a temperature controller to help maintain my tent temp. None of my planters are actually making contact with the seedling mat because they are on elevators like I mentioned above. Mine is set to 86F and with lights on, it keeps it around 82F. Night time temps get down to mid 70's. I use this set-up for vegging. Once they are ready for my flower tent, they are big enough where night time temps in the mid to upper 60's doesn't slow them down at all. You need a source of heat but an electric space heater can be dangerous and from what you've said ... really isn't up to the task.

Your tent is pretty small ... is there a way for you to bring it all inside? It's probably your easiest way to get your environment temps under control.

I agree with all the posts about plants showing signs of over-watering made much worse by the cold. A simple analog moisture meter is a cheap investment. In my area they run about $10.00. Don't get a digital one and you only need it to read moisture levels in your soil.
 
TSD

TSD

1,537
263
Actually some strains begin to slow down growth in the low 60's ... 50's would be significantly worse. Cold weather can also bring on other issues like mold. I Think your best option would be to run your exhaust ventilation through a temperature controller and allow your oscillating fans to circulate 24/7.

It looks like your fabric pot is actually sitting inside the saucer. Consider a plant elevator like this one here: https://hydropros.com/products/gro-pro-nx-level-pot-elevator?currency=USD&variant=28740803526761&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvcmmndT0-gIVw8fICh0bqQ1LEAQYASABEgKNgvD_BwE The link is for reference. You might have a better source.

27" x 27" is a pretty small tent. Inside in my basement, I use a 20" x 48" seedling mat through a temperature controller to help maintain my tent temp. None of my planters are actually making contact with the seedling mat because they are on elevators like I mentioned above. Mine is set to 86F and with lights on, it keeps it around 82F. Night time temps get down to mid 70's. I use this set-up for vegging. Once they are ready for my flower tent, they are big enough where night time temps in the mid to upper 60's doesn't slow them down at all. You need a source of heat but an electric space heater can be dangerous and from what you've said ... really isn't up to the task.

Your tent is pretty small ... is there a way for you to bring it all inside? It's probably your easiest way to get your environment temps under control.

I agree with all the posts about plants showing signs of over-watering made much worse by the cold. A simple analog moisture meter is a cheap investment. In my area they run about $10.00. Don't get a digital one and you only need it to read moisture levels in your soil.
Yeah I imagine they react to temps based on where they originated climate wise. Anything I've ever grown seems to come to an abrupt halt around 50 degrees... but I ain't trying to grow any tropical shit in these parts either lol.
 
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Ganjadad

Ganjadad

796
93
Over night there seems to be a bit of an improvement by moving the tent closer to the space heater, putting a bowl of water inside the tent, and shutting off the oscillating fan. It never got below 58 and the humidity was up around 63%.During today it was able to get up to 74 with 55% humidity with only the in-line fan running. I put the space heater in the tent and ran it for about a half hour and within that time the temp jumped to 88 degrees and the humidity dropped to 41. Seems like I’m not going to be able to find a balance here.

Is it better to have higher temps and super low humidity or better but not great humidity with better but not great temperature?
That’s great your getting closer to a solution. Does your heater have an adjustable thermostat? Definitely get the pots out of sitting water, if they are. Keep your oscillating fan on at all times or your gonna have a mold issue next. Definitely want to keep your humidity lower then 58%. Try covering the top of your pots with clear plastic to try and keep the root zone warmer when lights off
 
B

Bode180

34
18
Actually some strains begin to slow down growth in the low 60's ... 50's would be significantly worse. Cold weather can also bring on other issues like mold. I Think your best option would be to run your exhaust ventilation through a temperature controller and allow your oscillating fans to circulate 24/7.

It looks like your fabric pot is actually sitting inside the saucer. Consider a plant elevator like this one here: https://hydropros.com/products/gro-pro-nx-level-pot-elevator?currency=USD&variant=28740803526761&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvcmmndT0-gIVw8fICh0bqQ1LEAQYASABEgKNgvD_BwE The link is for reference. You might have a better source.

27" x 27" is a pretty small tent. Inside in my basement, I use a 20" x 48" seedling mat through a temperature controller to help maintain my tent temp. None of my planters are actually making contact with the seedling mat because they are on elevators like I mentioned above. Mine is set to 86F and with lights on, it keeps it around 82F. Night time temps get down to mid 70's. I use this set-up for vegging. Once they are ready for my flower tent, they are big enough where night time temps in the mid to upper 60's doesn't slow them down at all. You need a source of heat but an electric space heater can be dangerous and from what you've said ... really isn't up to the task.

Your tent is pretty small ... is there a way for you to bring it all inside? It's probably your easiest way to get your environment temps under control.

I agree with all the posts about plants showing signs of over-watering made much worse by the cold. A simple analog moisture meter is a cheap investment. In my area they run about $10.00. Don't get a digital one and you only need it to read moisture levels in your soil.
The best I can do is to bring it into the garage which looks like is going to happen. The tiny space heater is on the lowest possible setting but still cranking out heat in such a small space is making me nervous. Going to abandon the space heaters at this point and try the heating pad with temperature control to see if that works better with the reduced risk of fire as well. I’ll have to change the temp each morning and night for the lights on/off temperature. Thank you everyone for your help, hoping to get this under control. Regardless it’s been one big learning experience that’s for sure!
 
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