Novice grower, help needed, possible Cal/Mag deficiency

[growsince79]

If that is true, what would you suggest?

I already gave my opinion. Raise the light a bit and let the pot dry out. It needs to lose 12lbs or so between watering.

 

[biggerbud420]

Phosphorus Deficiency - Growing Exposed

Phosphorus, is a mobile nutrient and is considered vital for plant health. Numerous catalytic process involving photosynthesis and energy transfer within the

growingexposed.com

 

[manemoj22]

I already gave my opinion. Raise the light a bit and let the pot dry out. It needs to lose 12lbs or so between watering.

Ok, I will wait for the pots to dry out. I will water till I get runoff and monitor the weight. I hope something changes.

Thanks to everyone else for your opinions.

 

[growsince79]

Ok, I will wait for the pots to dry out. I will water till I get runoff and monitor the weight. I hope something changes.

Thanks to everyone else for your opinions.

The damage is already done. Most of the roots are probably brown and fried. Hopefully you can keep it alive long enough to salvage something. Got gnats?

 

[MIMedGrower]

This looks to me like the nutrient filled soil was fed too early and the plants got burned from nutrient overload. The cal mag added made the problem worse. I would flush and check runoff ph and ppm and re fertilize with a light mixture if needed with no cal mag. I dont see common signs of overwatering like curled down thick leaves with “speed bumps”.

And calcium and magnesium are two different elements with very different signs of deficiency.

 

[Moshmen]

Sometimes automated mistakes happen. Have patience, and do plenty of silent lurking, its what I did. I do a fair amount of copying what more experienced growers do in their grow diaries.

+1 the farm has increased yield and potency in my garden just reading other more experience d farmers threads. Almost always your problem has been addressed in another thread.
Welcome to farm

 

[growsince79]

This looks to me like the nutrient filled soil was fed too early and the plants got burned from nutrient overload. The cal mag added made the problem worse. I would flush and check runoff ph and ppm and re fertilize with a light mixture if needed with no cal mag. I dont see common signs of overwatering like curled down thick leaves with “speed bumps”.

And calcium and magnesium are two different elements with very different signs of deficiency.

Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.

I have seen growers water only a little every day or to runoff and wait till dry like I do with good results. But you are right. Something nutrient or water related is wrong. Dry pockets in the soil would also burn the plants like this.

 

[HaveApuff]

This looks like a Calcium deficiency. This might help you:

How to fix Cannabis Calcium Deficiency (Ca) Pics & Symptoms

Calcium deficiencies cause tiny brown spots that appear on new and middle growth. Learn how to fix this problem for good!

www.growweedeasy.com

 

[Ph 007]

Yes, It did begin around that time. I have been supplementing the water with Biobizz CalMag for the past four weeks.

Just checked they are at 25.6°C / 78°F.

If you up the temp to 80 - 82 will notice then drink quicker, led dobt give off heat like hps does, so needs warmer air temperature to get the leaves warm enough like the would be under hps

Goodle leaf surface tempreture and led, you will see then,, but you probably see like 80-85 for leaf tempretute , a leaf tempretute 75-77f is better, so if you run your room at 80-82 this should get the leaf tempretute around 75-77
Also at room temp 80-82 humidity for flower you want is 50-60% because of the higher temps , but I bet running 80-82f you will struggle t9 keep the humidity at 50-60% but just get them temps up to 80-82f I run hps and led now because I have a hps with the leds the leaf tempreure are good because the hps heated them up I run 75-77 room temp,
But
When I did a few runs with led I run 75-77 room temps and the grew shit so i upped my temps to 83-85 had great result humidiy was dam low tho at 39-45% leaves didn't lo9k happy but great bud and yield, now know 83-85f room temp was a bit to hot, it should be 80 . And 82 max 85max max if you want to try but over 82 getting little to hot.

Don't be scared to run 80-82max trust ;)

 

[growsince79]

If you up the temp to 80 - 82 will notice then drink quicker, led dobt give off heat like hps does, so needs warmer air temperature to get the leaves warm enough like the would be under hps

Goodle leaf surface tempreture and led, you will see then,, but you probably see like 80-85 for leaf tempretute , a leaf tempretute 75-77f is better, so if you run your room at 80-82 this should get the leaf tempretute around 75-77
Also at room temp 80-82 humidity for flower you want is 50-60% because of the higher temps , but I bet running 80-82f you will struggle t9 keep the humidity at 50-60% but just get them temps up to 80-82f I run hps and led now because I have a hps with the leds the leaf tempreure are good because the hps heated them up I run 75-77 room temp,
But
When I did a few runs with led I run 75-77 room temps and the grew shit so i upped my temps to 83-85 had great result humidiy was dam low tho at 39-45% leaves didn't lo9k happy but great bud and yield, now know 83-85f room temp was a bit to hot, it should be 80 . And 82 max 85max max if you want to try but over 82 getting little to hot.

Don't be scared to run 80-82max trust ;)

+1

 

[Frankster]

This looks to me like the nutrient filled soil was fed too early and the plants got burned from nutrient overload. The cal mag added made the problem worse. I would flush and check runoff ph and ppm and re fertilize with a light mixture if needed with no cal mag. I dont see common signs of overwatering like curled down thick leaves with “speed bumps”.

And calcium and magnesium are two different elements with very different signs of deficiency.

Bingo! That's my thoughts also, and probably a touch of either under or over potassium.... Can't tell which, because the symptoms are always the same. (note: the burn is all at the leaf apex and margins) But nutrient overload, and probably potassium is the "main" culprit here, either under (in the wrong ratio, or not enough cation exchange capacity), or simply too much w/excessive EC.... I would lean toward the latter, because it makes the most sense.

It's one of the reasons I've gone to spraying some of the potassium bicarbonate, and even dipotassium phosphate in foliars during early to mid flower, because it's so difficult to dial in precisely, especially with a perpetual garden, hosting multiple cultivars. Remove some of the offending nutrients and apply them another way.... That's my solution to avoiding this kinda problem, while still maintaining prolific bud growth.

Lets get that solo challenge going everyone! I'm in!

 

[mancorn]

Not trying to be patronizing, but you should do some research on how organic and salt based (most synthetic bottled nutrients) differ in terms of provide nutrients for your plants, as it appears that you have very little available nutrients. Your Biogrow is primarily sugar (molasses) and is intended to feed microorganisms (which in term will convert organic fertilizer into plant available food). Your BioBloom is a 2-7-4 with is very low on nitrogen and has way too much Phosphorus. Your Alg-a-Mic is seaweed (0.1-0-0.2) and contains little NPK. And the CalMag is a weed forum joke. It’s not the problem - the BioGrow contains both Ca & Mg (and even if you were short on one ingredient, no reason to think you’d be short on both).

But even if you were loaded with organic fertilizers, no amount would help if you don’t have a the microorganisms to convert it into plant available nutrients. Organics are not like salt based fertilizers (which are plant available right out of the bottle). I would bet that you soil doesn’t have near enough biodiversity to keep your plants feed. I’m not real wise on the BioBizz (hopefully a more experienced user can help), but certainly looks like you’re not providing adequate feed. Unless you’re really wedded to the BioBizz, I’d switch over to a salt based fertilizer for the rest of this grow. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a big proponent of organic growing. But until you understand how soil life feeds plants, you’ll be chasing your tail. Use a balanced (single bottle) feed and you’ll be able to save the grow.

And do yourself a favor and trim off all the burned up foliage. It’s not coming back, blocks light to new growth, makes it hard to tell if you’re on the right track, and just bums you out looking at a burned up mess day after day. I’d also dial back your lights for awhile as blasting a sick plant doesn’t do it any good.
Biobizz
Biobizz
Biobizz
Biobizz
Biobizz

 

[Frankster]

Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.

I like when my plants are almost bone dry actually. I've evolved on this issue. Like the one in the pic above, was when I took the pic. Keeps the fungi fully engaged, IMO. That's another reason I've also gone to doing phos above during flower, to keep them fully engaged, and minimize anything that's going to disrupt that process.

I'm using a sorta hybrid organic/salt approach, and I think I'm actually making some headway with getting the best of both worlds.

Precise salt solutions in the center of the zone, then spray hormones, glibberins, auxiins, kelp, (and two dozen species of fungi, and two dozen species of bacteria) organics on it's exterior, top and bottom with a spray gun everyday, creating a protective "living" shield for my roots. All done in air bags.

Phos is the bane of the fungi world, so I minimize it during flower (some is unavoidable) and then hit it with dipotassium phosphate above, then balance that with the monopotassium phosphate below.

It took me awhile to get this right, because there were multiple problems with keeping fungi alive during flower, and it's a novel challenge to try and overcome this barrier, because there could be payoffs.

 

[manemoj22]

A thank you to everyone that provided their opinions. And an update:

Today I did a thorough flush with clean water and captured the runoff. The ppm shot up to 1650 and pH was around 6.2. And I was following the doses they recommend in their official nutrient schedule. I would really like to get rid of biobizz but that is all I have available locally (at least regarding organics).

For this grow I am still limited to biobizz. I have the biogrow, fishmix, biobloom and alg-a-mic available. Now after the flush ppm of runoff reads 250 for both flowers. Can anyone suggest the best course of action, at least to save what I can?

 

[growsince79]

A thank you to everyone that provided their opinions. And an update:

Today I did a thorough flush with clean water and captured the runoff. The ppm shot up to 1650 and pH was around 6.2. And I was following the doses they recommend in their official nutrient schedule. I would really like to get rid of biobizz but that is all I have available locally (at least regarding organics).

For this grow I am still limited to biobizz. I have the biogrow, fishmix, biobloom and alg-a-mic available. Now after the flush ppm of runoff reads 250 for both flowers. Can anyone suggest the best course of action, at least to save what I can?

6.2 ph is good. 1650ppm organic is probably ok too. I've never used biobizz. But I read lots of sick plant posts from people using it. Feed half strength and wait longer between water.

 

[Aqua Man]

It's hungry overall... with organics you can't go by ppm but most plants see no issues even when well above 2000ppm. The thing is the 2000+ppm or any ppm in organics is not a good indication of nutrients.

So it's with in need of more nutrients or you have a watering issue and last but not least you have damaged the microbes in the soil and they are no longer making the organic nutrients available.

Have a read here to make sure you are watering right.. then I would suggest a light dose of synthetic nutrients to help correct the issues while you try to get your organic nutrients figured out. You could also use an organic tea instead of synthetic.

Marijuana Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it

Ok lots of posts on how to water plants. So I thought I would put together a thread on how different factors contribute to different results that ppl see. This will be a long read based on my personal knowledge, opinions, research and others work to consolidate information for our members. I'm...

www.thcfarmer.com

 

[william76]

Looks like your overdosing it on cal too most of the time folk will feed cal mag when the plant just needs mag.every feeding is too much especially in soil.76

 

[Aqua Man]

A thank you to everyone that provided their opinions. And an update:

Today I did a thorough flush with clean water and captured the runoff. The ppm shot up to 1650 and pH was around 6.2. And I was following the doses they recommend in their official nutrient schedule. I would really like to get rid of biobizz but that is all I have available locally (at least regarding organics).

For this grow I am still limited to biobizz. I have the biogrow, fishmix, biobloom and alg-a-mic available. Now after the flush ppm of runoff reads 250 for both flowers. Can anyone suggest the best course of action, at least to save what I can?

Just gonna call it now... within 5 days you are going to see more deficiencies.

 

[growsince79]

It's hungry overall... with organics you can't go by ppm but most plants see no issues even when well above 2000ppm. The thing is the 2000+ppm or any ppm in organics is not a good indication of nutrients.

So it's with in need of more nutrients or you have a watering issue and last but not least you have damaged the microbes in the soil and they are no longer making the organic nutrients available.

Have a read here to make sure you are watering right.. then I would suggest a light dose of synthetic nutrients to help correct the issues while you try to get your organic nutrients figured out. You could also use an organic tea instead of synthetic.

Marijuana Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it

Ok lots of posts on how to water plants. So I thought I would put together a thread on how different factors contribute to different results that ppl see. This will be a long read based on my personal knowledge, opinions, research and others work to consolidate information for our members. I'm...

www.thcfarmer.com

Needs something immediately available. I/2 tsp/g of dynabloom or similar + 1/4 cup pee. Hard to repair the roots this late in life.