Novice grower, help needed, possible Cal/Mag deficiency

[Aqua Man]

Needs something immediately available. I/2 tsp/g of dynabloom or similar + 1/4 cup pee. Hard to repair the roots this late in life.

Agree 100%

OP maybe adding something like fishshit (it's an actual product that contains microbes) can help cleanup the roots and make some nutrients available. But I agree with @growsince79 they are going to need some available nutrients

 

[manemoj22]

Ok, I just fed them a light mixture of fish-mix and bio-bloom as I do not have any synthetic fertilizers at hand. I will also adjust my watering schedule, as people suggested. Hopefully I can keep them alive until harvest.
After that, I plan to switch to synthetic fertilizers where I can at least rely on my ppm meter. No more organic shit for me, at least until I get it figured out.

Thanks again to everyone for all your help and lectures. I greatly appreciate it.

 

[mancorn]

Ok, I just fed them a light mixture of fish-mix and bio-bloom as I do not have any synthetic fertilizers at hand. I will also adjust my watering schedule, as people suggested. Hopefully I can keep them alive until harvest.
After that, I plan to switch to synthetic fertilizers where I can at least rely on my ppm meter. No more organic shit for me, at least until I get it figured out.

Thanks again to everyone for all your help and lectures. I greatly appreciate it.

It’s not that organics are shit, rather that there’s an intermediate process between feeding your plants and having the plant take up the nutrients. This is where microorganisms break down the organic material and make it available to the plant. This process takes time. It might be days, weeks or months (with dry organics). As other posters are trying to tell you, flushing (which is actually only appropriate for synthetic salt based fertilizers) and continued feeding of BioBizz is NOT going to help. No mater if it’s a light feed or a heavy feed, if you don’t have heathy soil (i.e. a bunch of bacteria and fungi) then there’s no way to get food to your plants. Salt based fertilizers are available to the plant immediately, even in the absence of microorganisms. This makes it easier to quickly change gears and address problems and see the results. With organics you can make a change and it might take a month to see the results of that change. You’ve made many changes and so it’s really hard to know what’s, what at this point and honestly impossible for any of us to just look at a plant and tell you with certainty what your problem is - it’s most likely a combination of factors. The best course of action IMO is a purchase a $20 bottle of a balanced grow formula (not a bloom formula), something like Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro so you can quickly provide the missing nutrients.

 

[dirtyoldman]

You may have multiple things going on here so I'll try to cover all bases. I notice a little bit of leaf tip burn and that might be a case of too many nutrients. But i don't think that is your main problem. Over-watering was suggested here and that is possible given that I believe you should ignore the "experts" that recommend having water flow out of the pots every time you water. I don't drench like that. My 5-gallon pots get about a quart each day and I will lift each one individually and water according to its needs. Some will take up water at a different rate. You just don't give them all a pre-measured amount. But over-watering usually will see many leaves yellowing out. Your leaves look exactly like a condition I just called "Rust" which is a fungal infection that will work its way right up to the leaves on the flowers, turning them brown and killing them as it goes. This condition seems to occur in higher humidity rooms. I treated it with H2O2 but it was only partially effective and required multiple applications. And this can bleach the leaves. It was incurable. The infection did not stop me from getting a yield and it did not rot the buds. I removed the damaged leaves but as the others grew to take their place they also became infected. The infection seems to stop where the sticky-icky begins. I haven't seen "Rust" in years and that's no co-incidence since I started using Neem Oil. I add a little plant-based dish detergent as an emulsifier and mix with water and spray it on the plants. Use this stuff and you're unlikely to see fungal infections again. It's really a miracle product. I think I also got rid of fungal infections by running at lower humidity. The "experts" who say you should run at higher humidity I think are just nuts. Or have an absolutely perfectly calibrated laboratory. Every time I tried it I got fungus. And it caused what I see in your picture. The fact that you drench your pots that heavily also speaks to a higher humidity level. Running at 40-45% is good for me. I just looked at my remote read-out and it says 44%. Of course there is in-out ventilation and an interior oscillating fan running 24 hours. I use the Fox Farm Trio and Cal Mag Plus. They only got two applications of the latter and that was enough.

 

[Frankster]

It's hungry overall... with organics you can't go by ppm but most plants see no issues even when well above 2000ppm. The thing is the 2000+ppm or any ppm in organics is not a good indication of nutrients.

So it's with in need of more nutrients or you have a watering issue and last but not least you have damaged the microbes in the soil and they are no longer making the organic nutrients available.

Have a read here to make sure you are watering right.. then I would suggest a light dose of synthetic nutrients to help correct the issues while you try to get your organic nutrients figured out. You could also use an organic tea instead of synthetic.

Marijuana Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it

Ok lots of posts on how to water plants. So I thought I would put together a thread on how different factors contribute to different results that ppl see. This will be a long read based on my personal knowledge, opinions, research and others work to consolidate information for our members. I'm...

www.thcfarmer.com

Ah, so looks like he maybe had nitrification issues. That's why I hit my plants everyday at the bases with a dilute formula of multiple microbes/kelp all along the outsides and top, after I get done adding my salts, or orgaincs, whatever might be the case. I might not be getting as much benefit as with using full organics, but it's going to help keep the plant with resistance at minimum, and assist the nutrient absorption, by keeping that fungi engaged.

Do you think that phosphorus could have been the culprit, literally at the root of destroying his micro-biome?

 

[Frankster]

It’s not that organics are shit, rather that there’s an intermediate process between feeding your plants and having the plant take up the nutrients. This is where microorganisms break down the organic material and make it available to the plant. This process takes time. It might be days, weeks or months (with dry organics). As other posters are trying to tell you, flushing (which is actually only appropriate for synthetic salt based fertilizers) and continued feeding of BioBizz is NOT going to help. No mater if it’s a light feed or a heavy feed, if you don’t have heathy soil (i.e. a bunch of bacteria and fungi) then there’s no way to get food to your plants. Salt based fertilizers are available to the plant immediately, even in the absence of microorganisms. This makes it easier to quickly change gears and address problems and see the results. With organics you can make a change and it might take a month to see the results of that change. You’ve made many changes and so it’s really hard to know what’s, what at this point and honestly impossible for any of us to just look at a plant and tell you with certainty what your problem is - it’s most likely a combination of factors. The best course of action IMO is a purchase a $20 bottle of a balanced grow formula (not a bloom formula), something like Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro so you can quickly provide the missing nutrients.

I agree with much of what your saying here, but I demur on the flushing of organics part. Flushing a plant has it's obvious benefits and upsides. Naturally rain is mother natures way of cleaning things. Flushing is necessary, up to a point, and natrually, it occurs in cycles. It's a built in mechanism of nature, IMO. A default reset switch, for removing toxins and spent or un-usable bio-chemicals.

Personally I think there's something in there (My guess is elevated Phosphate, specifically Orthophosphate) ie. fishbone, INIHIBITING the nitrification process, and until it's removed, nothing will improve. (Nitrification can't be restored).

I don't think the problem is the flush, but the obvious absence, or minimal traces of nitrification microbes.
Under normal conditions Nitrifying bacteria grow slowly. Under optimal conditions, it takes fully 15 hours for a colony to double in size!