growsince79
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I already gave my opinion. Raise the light a bit and let the pot dry out. It needs to lose 12lbs or so between watering.If that is true, what would you suggest?
Ok, I will wait for the pots to dry out. I will water till I get runoff and monitor the weight. I hope something changes.I already gave my opinion. Raise the light a bit and let the pot dry out. It needs to lose 12lbs or so between watering.
The damage is already done. Most of the roots are probably brown and fried. Hopefully you can keep it alive long enough to salvage something. Got gnats?Ok, I will wait for the pots to dry out. I will water till I get runoff and monitor the weight. I hope something changes.
Thanks to everyone else for your opinions.
+1 the farm has increased yield and potency in my garden just reading other more experience d farmers threads. Almost always your problem has been addressed in another thread.Sometimes automated mistakes happen. Have patience, and do plenty of silent lurking, its what I did. I do a fair amount of copying what more experienced growers do in their grow diaries.
Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.This looks to me like the nutrient filled soil was fed too early and the plants got burned from nutrient overload. The cal mag added made the problem worse. I would flush and check runoff ph and ppm and re fertilize with a light mixture if needed with no cal mag. I dont see common signs of overwatering like curled down thick leaves with “speed bumps”.
And calcium and magnesium are two different elements with very different signs of deficiency.
Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.
If you up the temp to 80 - 82 will notice then drink quicker, led dobt give off heat like hps does, so needs warmer air temperature to get the leaves warm enough like the would be under hps
+1If you up the temp to 80 - 82 will notice then drink quicker, led dobt give off heat like hps does, so needs warmer air temperature to get the leaves warm enough like the would be under hps
Goodle leaf surface tempreture and led, you will see then,, but you probably see like 80-85 for leaf tempretute , a leaf tempretute 75-77f is better, so if you run your room at 80-82 this should get the leaf tempretute around 75-77
Also at room temp 80-82 humidity for flower you want is 50-60% because of the higher temps , but I bet running 80-82f you will struggle t9 keep the humidity at 50-60% but just get them temps up to 80-82f I run hps and led now because I have a hps with the leds the leaf tempreure are good because the hps heated them up I run 75-77 room temp,
But
When I did a few runs with led I run 75-77 room temps and the grew shit so i upped my temps to 83-85 had great result humidiy was dam low tho at 39-45% leaves didn't lo9k happy but great bud and yield, now know 83-85f room temp was a bit to hot, it should be 80 . And 82 max 85max max if you want to try but over 82 getting little to hot.
Don't be scared to run 80-82max trust ;)
Bingo! That's my thoughts also, and probably a touch of either under or over potassium.... Can't tell which, because the symptoms are always the same. (note: the burn is all at the leaf apex and margins) But nutrient overload, and probably potassium is the "main" culprit here, either under (in the wrong ratio, or not enough cation exchange capacity), or simply too much w/excessive EC.... I would lean toward the latter, because it makes the most sense.This looks to me like the nutrient filled soil was fed too early and the plants got burned from nutrient overload. The cal mag added made the problem worse. I would flush and check runoff ph and ppm and re fertilize with a light mixture if needed with no cal mag. I dont see common signs of overwatering like curled down thick leaves with “speed bumps”.
And calcium and magnesium are two different elements with very different signs of deficiency.
I like when my plants are almost bone dry actually. I've evolved on this issue. Like the one in the pic above, was when I took the pic. Keeps the fungi fully engaged, IMO. That's another reason I've also gone to doing phos above during flower, to keep them fully engaged, and minimize anything that's going to disrupt that process.Agree with checking ph. Nutes are probably unavailable due to improper feeding and watering. I doubt the roots are white and thriving. I still say they need to dry out more between waterings. 2 quarts of water for 5gal pots never worked for me.
6.2 ph is good. 1650ppm organic is probably ok too. I've never used biobizz. But I read lots of sick plant posts from people using it. Feed half strength and wait longer between water.A thank you to everyone that provided their opinions. And an update:
Today I did a thorough flush with clean water and captured the runoff. The ppm shot up to 1650 and pH was around 6.2. And I was following the doses they recommend in their official nutrient schedule. I would really like to get rid of biobizz but that is all I have available locally (at least regarding organics).
For this grow I am still limited to biobizz. I have the biogrow, fishmix, biobloom and alg-a-mic available. Now after the flush ppm of runoff reads 250 for both flowers. Can anyone suggest the best course of action, at least to save what I can?
Just gonna call it now... within 5 days you are going to see more deficiencies.A thank you to everyone that provided their opinions. And an update:
Today I did a thorough flush with clean water and captured the runoff. The ppm shot up to 1650 and pH was around 6.2. And I was following the doses they recommend in their official nutrient schedule. I would really like to get rid of biobizz but that is all I have available locally (at least regarding organics).
For this grow I am still limited to biobizz. I have the biogrow, fishmix, biobloom and alg-a-mic available. Now after the flush ppm of runoff reads 250 for both flowers. Can anyone suggest the best course of action, at least to save what I can?
Needs something immediately available. I/2 tsp/g of dynabloom or similar + 1/4 cup pee. Hard to repair the roots this late in life.It's hungry overall... with organics you can't go by ppm but most plants see no issues even when well above 2000ppm. The thing is the 2000+ppm or any ppm in organics is not a good indication of nutrients.
So it's with in need of more nutrients or you have a watering issue and last but not least you have damaged the microbes in the soil and they are no longer making the organic nutrients available.
Have a read here to make sure you are watering right.. then I would suggest a light dose of synthetic nutrients to help correct the issues while you try to get your organic nutrients figured out. You could also use an organic tea instead of synthetic.
Marijuana Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it
Ok lots of posts on how to water plants. So I thought I would put together a thread on how different factors contribute to different results that ppl see. This will be a long read based on my personal knowledge, opinions, research and others work to consolidate information for our members. I'm...www.thcfarmer.com
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