Nute Pack In Tea Is Fine.

[Capulator]

The nute pack has mycorrhizae in it, which will only come out of stasis in the presence of plant roots.

However it also has azospirrilum and a few other goodies that WILL multiply in a tea with a food source.

Therefore, if you would like to use the nute pack in tea (soil/coco users only), it is perfectly fine to do so. I know I said that this was not necessary before, but given the fact that the mycos will not die off in the tea, and the others will multiply, I do not see any harm and only a little more benefit to throwing the nute pack in to the brew as well.

So go ahead and throw the 1/4 tsp per gallon in to the nute pack, but remember if you are diluting the tea at that point (1 cup per 5 gallons) you will be diluting the mycos down to about 1/80th of the intended dose since they will not have multiplied at all.

Now, there are more mycos in our product than I think any other "hydro" brand (we are at 125 spores per gram now of each of 9 species), so I am not sure if it even matters if applied very early in the life cycle. Also, the mycos are best applied EARLY and will grow with the root zone over time.

You may want to think about dusting seeds prior to planting with the nute pack, or hitting them a couple times when they are still in dixie cups or baby cubes or whatever with full concentrate tea.

You be the judge. Do what works for you. I am always happy to answer the questions and find the info if I don't have it.

Hopefully you can make sense of this info.

Happy growing,

Cap

**OGBIOWAR PRODUCTS ARE INTENDED FOR USE ON EDIBLE CROPS ONLY.

 

[Seamaiden]

I think so, thanks for posting this.

 

[HydroRocks]

Great information Cap!! I would also agree with the posted information.

I especially like the idea of "dusting" the seeds and also giving very early treatments of the inoculate. Green House seeds for example uses a very similar "dusting" method of there seeds using a biologic compound (like the Nute Packs from Cap) that is included in the coloring process they use to identify the seeds. Not so fond of the added dyes they use to get the color but the basic concept is solid, which is to provide the germinating seeds with biology that will build a symbiotic relationship (the second that tap root appears from its protective shell) with the plant as it grows and matures. The sooner the better, as this relationship will ensure the seedling is protected and also that the nutrients needed are present in a form they can use, when they exhaust there supply from the seed.

But anyhow IMHO you can not go wrong by dusting your seeds or applying very early treatments right out of the gate with seedlings and fresh cut clones as well.

The only warning or detail I would suggest is that you continue to provide the same type biology friendly environment, whatever that may be, when transplanting your young plants to a different system or method of growing. i.e. - going from veg stages to flowering stages, or similar circumstances.

I think that a lot of people that experience or report a problem when they move plants from one system to another or change the method used by moving plants from a veg system and/or room, to a flowering system and/or room or even just moving plants into a larger container to provide more space is from the change in biology of the environment.

Basically any "condition" that would no longer support the existing symbiotic relationships that have been set up since the start of germination or initial rooting of clones. I think this is the cause for most of these problems and it will help to make sure these "conditions" remain the same so the biology can continue to work and thrive.

This is probably most noticed in hydroponics and especially water culture systems in general. An example would be when the plants start out in a more biology friendly environment for veg stages, and then the plants are moved into a not so friendly water culture system. All the existing relationships are broken, and the plant goes into a "shock" like condition, where it does not grow at all or very little or shows signs of nutrient deficiencies and then seem to bounce back over time.

Usually modding the system with a "Bio-Filter" can help to eliminate at some of these stress factors by providing a "home" for the biology.

Be Well!
HR

 

[Dank Sinatra]

I brew my tea in a 10 gal trash can with a recirc pump/ water fall and heft air stoned. When the stea is done brewing i let it sit for 10 minutes for particulates to settle out(EWC, Alaska forest humus, Oat flour,sometimes kelp meal) then i pour my tea off into my res via a spout installed 2" from the bottom. So their is 2 inches of "gunk" and tea left which i distribute in the veggie garden. How much of the nute packs glomis am i loosing from the spores settling and being distributed to the veggies? should i do this differently?

 

[Seamaiden]

Dank, I have to be honest, I'm wondering how many microbes you're killing if you're using a recirculating pump (impeller, yes?). Have you scoped the tea when it's done to see whether or not anything's alive after the brew?

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Dank, I have to be honest, I'm wondering how many microbes you're killing if you're using a recirculating pump (impeller, yes?). Have you scoped the tea when it's done to see whether or not anything's alive after the brew?

Is there any safe alternatives for watering? Would be nice to get everything out of my tea and not have to worry about my pump working against me..

 

[Seamaiden]

Microbeman says that, based on what he's scoped, a single pass through a pump (I'm assuming he means a magnetic impeller pump here, not diaphragm) will not kill microbes. However, most recirculating pumps I know of are mag driven impeller pumps, which means that microbes are gonna get bashed to hell.

I have a Northern Tool tank sprayer that I also use for watering. While the tank itself is too big for my indoor needs (26gal) I'm sure there are those who could use something this size. They come with the perfect type of pump for keeping microbes alive--a diaphragm pump (12v, so you need a battery or converter). I put mine in a cart I tow with our garden tractor.

So, what I take away from what Microbeman has written and scoped, my own knowledge of impeller pumps and how they will kill other microbial animals (in the reefkeeping world), is that a diaphragm pump is what you want to move the tea from Point A to Point B, and air is what you want to culture the tea, to aerate it. I got myself what turned out to be a GIGANTO EcoPlus 7, but the smaller models are what's recommended for folks making smaller amounts of teas. In fact, when I saw that Ecoplus, ya wanna know what my first thought was? FISHROOM! Our entire basement filled with fish tanks and fish! <droolz>

Instead here I am growing these practically inanimate weed & veggies. Fish are so much fun.

 

[Shamus]

good to see this.. been kinda wondering.. ive seen good results from doing it for the past month and this also seems most beneficial with inoculating things like rapid rooters in trays ect.. instead of individually dusting or whatever other folks do. some awesome shit ya got there cap. nothin but impressed

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Microbeman says that, based on what he's scoped, a single pass through a pump (I'm assuming he means a magnetic impeller pump here, not diaphragm) will not kill microbes. However, most recirculating pumps I know of are mag driven impeller pumps, which means that microbes are gonna get bashed to hell.

I have a Northern Tool tank sprayer that I also use for watering. While the tank itself is too big for my indoor needs (26gal) I'm sure there are those who could use something this size. They come with the perfect type of pump for keeping microbes alive--a diaphragm pump (12v, so you need a battery or converter). I put mine in a cart I tow with our garden tractor.

So, what I take away from what Microbeman has written and scoped, my own knowledge of impeller pumps and how they will kill other microbial animals (in the reefkeeping world), is that a diaphragm pump is what you want to move the tea from Point A to Point B, and air is what you want to culture the tea, to aerate it. I got myself what turned out to be a GIGANTO EcoPlus 7, but the smaller models are what's recommended for folks making smaller amounts of teas. In fact, when I saw that Ecoplus, ya wanna know what my first thought was? FISHROOM! Our entire basement filled with fish tanks and fish! <droolz>

Instead here I am growing these practically inanimate weed & veggies. Fish are so much fun.

Great info SM, Thanks! And yes the fish idea would be GREAT!

 

[Capulator]

I brew my tea in a 10 gal trash can with a recirc pump/ water fall and heft air stoned. When the stea is done brewing i let it sit for 10 minutes for particulates to settle out(EWC, Alaska forest humus, Oat flour,sometimes kelp meal) then i pour my tea off into my res via a spout installed 2" from the bottom. So their is 2 inches of "gunk" and tea left which i distribute in the veggie garden. How much of the nute packs glomis am i loosing from the spores settling and being distributed to the veggies? should i do this differently?

you will be ok. Sometimes I take the gunk and scrape it in to a panty hose, then I squeeze out the rest of the liquid.

 

[Seamaiden]

I forgot to add that I ALWAYS spread the leftover "whatever" from my teas (the solids) back to my compost, or feed another plant (usually one of my trees), do something like that with it. :)

 

[outwest]

I forgot to add that I ALWAYS spread the leftover "whatever" from my teas (the solids) back to my compost, or feed another plant (usually one of my trees), do something like that with it. :)

My lawn is well inocluated. :D

outwest

 

[Seamaiden]

I have no lawn. :p

 

[Dank Sinatra]

Perfect guys. Thanks for the good info, literally ran down stairs to unplug that pump... hahaha

I can imagine the poor guys getting chopped up in the turbine for sure. So a diaphram pump usually has less Pressure than a mag drive, since i use drip stakes i need a powerful pump to drive em. Thanks for the info that a single pass should be Kosher.

Since I have you here, what temp do you run your waters at? I am going to go search for a good explanation of the trade off between water temperature being high and increasing speed of reproduction and the water loosing its ability to hold oxygen at higher temps...

 

[Seamaiden]

It's not the pressure, it's how the water is driven. Let me see if I can find a graphic or something that will show you how each one affects microbes. I'll need a few minutes, k? I'll just edit this post.

I typically allow ambient temps during summer, sometimes I have to move things to my basement because it gets too warm, and warmer water holds less O2. When it's very cold, and because my indoor cultivation is far smaller than what I've done outside, I simply keep the brewer in the same room with the plants, so it gets near ambient temps, but stays around 68*F most of the time. I look at it like a tropical fish tank, in terms of the culturing, ya dig?

Still gotta find that pump graphic/info for ya.

Actually, I think reading this will be better:

The basic idea to remember with specific regard to microbes in a recirculating system is this--impellers, by their very nature of being a set of 'fins' that are in constant contact with the water column, much like a blender, are going to be a rough pass from the microbes' perspective. On the other hand, a diaphragm pump, being more... let's say 'organic' in its action, is a flexible membrane that moves back and forth, much more like, say... a sucking and spitting action.

Make sense?

 

[Dank Sinatra]

It's not the pressure, it's how the water is driven. Let me see if I can find a graphic or something that will show you how each one affects microbes. I'll need a few minutes, k? I'll just edit this post.

Yah. Totally get that it the way they move the water that kills them. I am just under the impression that a diaphram puts out a lower head pressure, so it wouldn't drive my drippers well. Wish i could use one, so i wouldn't cause any stress to my microbes :P thanks again for the post, you depict your information very clearly. I do not hehehe

 

[Dank Sinatra]

oh shit, mine was way to warm then, running like 80-82, Psiloscybes like 86, so i was going off that, but it wasn't crazy like my teas from last year. BTW this is the first tea i have brewed in a Year, got some OG BioWar from a friend, and were splitting a kilo of everything tonight :) Its crazy how many small details your forget over the course of a year :)

 

[Seamaiden]

Ahhh! Drippers... how about gravity? It works really well. A reservoir raised up overhead, with a gate valve or similar opened on a timer.

 

[Dank Sinatra]

Into it, I just haven't been able to get the flows even in my brain.... the pump i use over drives the drip stakes that dont have restriction... they have an outlet hole slightly smaller than a 1/4 line, but its free flowing. This drip system way built on a 3/4" main tube, i am going to try a 1/2" tonight and see if they equal out a little better....

But no I have digressed from the purpose of this thread. If you could briefly explain evening out the flows with a gravity fed system that would be coo :)

 

[Seamaiden]

If it were me, I'd have a valve on each dripper so I could adjust. Otherwise, I'd say it's manifold time.