MidwestToker
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pH lock-out ? Never seen that in my plants in 40 years of growing. Lockout from root damage from over watering is more than likely the case.Have you checked your pH runoff? The pH in your pots is the most important thing. So by adjusting water pH you can very quickly get rid of lock out by making the nutrients available. I suggest learning when hey need what nutrients and what pH they are used at. Many people choose number and that's the pH they run when you should really be changing it throughout the cycle
to get the best results.
I water every 3-4 daysIn how big of an area ? I run 600 watts of LED's in a 4x6 with 1.9 gpw yeilds. How often do you water or feed them ?
I'm sorry I didn't read you are in week 7 of flower. There would be no need to flush until you're ready for harvest. It's to late my friend. There isn't enough time to make the correction before harvest.
Hey guys little update.
So after just givibg them just plain water i think they are looking beter ?
It might be because of the light since i took em out the tent to the kitchen sink to make it easier for extra run off( i tried to aim for 20%).
I will send pictures tomorrow morning to see your opinions.
I think my mistake was that :
1 - giving nutrients every watering and maybe in to big doses. Or not giving more just more plain water feedings.
2- Not watering until there is a certain run-off. I realised that i hardly never watered with a little runoff... wich could be the reason why i had my problems?
I will be more considerate about my watering / ph and Ec (will buy) for the next run !
What is that ? Hard to read withbthe packet folded.consider having this handy , I don’t what is with this buf is miraculous. It will bring plants back from the dead . Check it out on You Tube .
View attachment 1118721
They look great to me ! Perky and aliveUpdate .
So i have the feeling my plants are doing better or at least that the dammaged has slowed down or stopped , maybe back on track not sure ?
Appart for the plant that only showed problems afterwards who seems to be doing worse (right plant on the first row).
What do you think ?
giving nutrients every watering is NOT a mistake, not being aware of your EC is. If you are unable to ph or determine what Exactly makes up whatever ppm you have(which you don't know either) is your mistake friend.I think my mistake was that :
1 - giving nutrients every watering and maybe in to big doses.
That is a safe default if you are unable to know your ph and ppm/ecOr not giving more just more plain water feedings.
exactly Backward. You should NOT water until there is runoff....ever. That is not the reason you had problems, my guess is your real issue was heat/ventilation/air movement, but your likely issue was guessing with the Nute bottle.2- Not watering until there is a certain run-off. I realised that i hardly never watered with a little runoff... wich could be the reason why i had my problems?
I will be more considerate about my watering / ph and Ec (will buy) for the next run !
giving nutrients every watering is NOT a mistake, not being aware of your EC is. If you are unable to ph or determine what Exactly makes up whatever ppm you have(which you don't know either) is your mistake friend.
That is a safe default if you are unable to know your ph and ppm/ec
exactly Backward. You should NOT water until there is runoff....ever. That is not the reason you had problems, my guess is your real issue was heat/ventilation/air movement, but your likely issue was guessing with the Nute bottle.
Here's a suggestion for someone who does not have access to meters, carefully follow the instructions on the bottle -25%. So if it calls for 1tp per gallon. default to a carefully measured 3/4 tp per gallon. And water every time with that strength, You might not hit your perfect EC, but you won't burn them going over.
As far as PH goes, you can even cheat that meter, Get a cheap $5 home ph test strip kit. Determine exactly what your ph is out of the tap. (Mine is 7.9) experiment with a bottle of ph down by adding three drops to a gallon of tap water. See if that brings it down to range. (ph is different for different mediums, I use 5.8-6.0 as a target point in my situation. My fully aerated room temperature 50 gallon reservoir requires one cap of acid to go from 7.9 to 5.9. When you determine exactly how much acid (ph down) you need per gallon, you will always be able to ph your tap water with knowledge.
Essential equipment. Without them, it's all guesswork.
Happy growing.
How do you check the ec and ph of the runoff out there isn’t any?
OK. excess calcium buildup? how would you think you have excess calcium buildup if you don't even know what calcium is being put in?Many reasons for good runoff. 15% is recommended in every greenhouse guide when fertigating. Helps clean out excess nutrients and waste matter. Also needed if using tap water with higher ppm’s. Helps dissolve the excess calcium buildup.
you don't. If you know what ec/ph your putting in, it's not a mystery what comes out.
OK. excess calcium buildup? how would you think you have excess calcium buildup if you don't even know what calcium is being put in?
If you don't know your calcium ppm out of the tap and you don't know how to determine ppm of supplemented calcium, how the hell can you determine there even exists a calcium buildup? In all fairness, you are actually probably 100% correct as the default is usually "just add 6ml of Cal mag" do that enough and you probably would have a excess calcium buildup.
Good conversation.
yes maybe....Just give them 5.8 ph water by itself for 7 days.
no....yes. Goddamit, I'm amazed on how some of you guys stumble backwards into truth...Give it a half gallon every day or every other day depends on how fast they drink.
This isn't about you, it's about HIM.of course I know what’s in my water.
right.That’s the first test that should be done before growing anything.
Because if you rely on testing runoff for factual EC, it is 100% likely that you will get a misreading for a variety of reasons I would be happy to lay out if your really interested. Standard operating procedure is to initiate a "fix" protocol that usually does fuck it up.how do you know what was used by the plants and what is excess if you don’t test runoff.
Because science my friend. Ph naturally drifts, we absolutely count on it. In fact I feed ec in accordance of knowing exactly my drift over a 72 hour period. as you know, different elements uptake at different ph, if you don't have drift you'll miss something.And how do you know if the ph is drifting?
My bad, I already get accused of writing books, And yesterday you said 50% of my information was wrong. hmmmWhat you put in is only half the information needed.
I would guess.You just guess I guess.
This isn't about you, it's about HIM.
right.
Because if you rely on testing runoff for factual EC, it is 100% likely that you will get a misreading for a variety of reasons I would be happy to lay out if your really interested. Standard operating procedure is to initiate a "fix" protocol that usually does fuck it up.
Because science my friend. Ph naturally drifts, we absolutely count on it. In fact I feed ec in accordance of knowing exactly my drift over a 72 hour period. as you know, different elements uptake at different ph, if you don't have drift you'll miss something.
For a loose example, Maganese, iron, boron copper and zinc tend to uptake between 4.5 and 6.0 ish. Whereas Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, Sulphur, calcium and magnesium uptake starting around 6.0 to 8.0.
That's why 6.0 is a pretty safe spot for most mediums. Some will vary higher or lower. If your tap water is going in at 7.9 like mine, and I used it (like this grower did) I would be unable to uptake any needed trace elements like Maganese, iron, boron copper and zinc .
My bad, I already get accused of writing books, And yesterday you said 50% of my information was wrong. hmmm
I would guess.
Very good Michigan. I'm really glad you have this all determined.Guessing like you do is not good advice. Sorry.
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