Opinion on homemade or commercial bloom boosters, or if even to use.

[radrichie61]

Good evening, hey I have a question. As a beginner I think I am around week four of flower. Does anyone have any opinion on whether the use of bloom boosters is worth it, and if so, recommended for novices? I like to think I am an advanced beginner maybe.

If you are pro boosters, do you make your own or buy. I’m thinking about combining very low numbers of cottonseed meal with a nitrogen content about two, and utilizing bonemeal at a phosphorus level of about 30 or 40, and potassium about 20 during this part of flower stage. Any thoughts on that? Oh, using potash for K but I thought I remember reading it wasn’t a great source of K. Any suggestions on a quality source for mixing into solution. I am mixing several product from a company called high-yield such as cottonseed meal, bonemeal, super phosphate, and potash.

Additionally I added roots organic microbe charge and a little bit of cal mag to my solution and brewEd for 24 hours. Trying to keep my soil levels at a pH of 6.5 or so. Has not been easy or successful
Finally, do I check the pH, and I think it’s gonna be a yes, of my liquid fertilizer mix I’m applying. Why wouldn’t I?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Peat_Phreak]

Using NPK bloom boosters depends on what your current NPK is and how much light the plant gets.

Try some kelp extract if you are already feeding a decent amount of NPK. It's a growth stimulator.

 

[Peat_Phreak]

But if you still want to use more NPK, consider that adding more K does not increase yield according to science.

 

[AirHammer]

I use some high P-K ratio bat guano and worm castings. Buds chunk up and taste great =)

Funny how the right poop does wonders for growth and flavor :P

 

[PotsieSativa]

But if you still want to use more NPK, consider that adding more K does not increase yield according to science.

There is a mountain of unsold weed in everything state that produces it. Yield shouldn't be a goal. Potassium is traditionally known as the quality mineral.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

If your plants are already on a feed schedule and growing well, as they do appear to be ... I wouldn't change a whole lot. You could add beneficial microbes though. Something like Roots Organic Microbe Charge or "Real Growers Recharge" with your current flower nutrients is usually sufficient. There's a lot of "boosts" products out there being sold that aren't really necessary. If you're already using a good feeding program, you probably already have enough P and K going in. The microbes will help your plants better utilize it. I brew mine as a tea. My plants really seem to love it!

 

[radrichie61]

If your plants are already on a feed schedule and growing well, as they do appear to be ... I wouldn't change a whole lot. You could add beneficial microbes though. Something like Roots Organic Microbe Charge or "Real Growers Recharge" with your current flower nutrients is usually sufficient. There's a lot of "boosts" products out there being sold that aren't really necessary. If you're already using a good feeding program, you probably already have enough P and K going in. The microbes will help your plants better utilize it. I brew mine as a tea. My plants really seem to love it!

I have roots organic. Really just a small amount work?. will of course follow instructions. Also is it ok to mix my liquid nutes with the terp tea?

 

[AirHammer]

the bag of bat guano I got its very strong shit if I use much more than a tbl spoon per 10 - 12 foot plant it will start to burn leaf tips first. less is defo better when using it.

I also got some other bloom nutes to start tomorrow.

Let the games begin.

 

[AirHammer]

But if you still want to use more NPK, consider that adding more K does not increase yield according to science.

care to elaborate and explain what you mean by this comment? To me its meaningless. Because in flower these are what you want. buds dont fatten up out of thin air.

 

[Peat_Phreak]

care to elaborate and explain what you mean by this comment? To me its meaningless. Because in flower these are what you want. buds dont fatten up out of thin air.

A recent scientific study with cannabis concluded the amount of K does not have a significant influence on yield.

For example. Let say your normal K dose is 250ppm. Making it 350ppm to 'bloom boost' doesn't increase yield. And reducing it to 150ppm gets a similar result. Adding too much K to 'bloom boost' can cause a nutrient deficiency via antagonism.

Plus we don't don't know what OP's original NPK is or anything about their grow. So suggesting more NPK is blind advice. That is why I suggested kelp extract. Doesn't matter what the current NPK is. Kelp extract won't interfere with NPK. It will create growth as a biostimulant.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

care to elaborate and explain what you mean by this comment? To me its meaningless. Because in flower these are what you want. buds dont fatten up out of thin air.

What he means is frequently less is more with cannabis. If you're already using a 2 or 3 part nutrient program, you don't need to boost either P or K with another product. Yes, these elements are needed ... but in balance. If the ratios get too out of balance, you'll have other issues because the over-abundance of one element is prohibiting the uptake of another. Over-fertilization is about as common as over-watering with an inexperienced grower.

Beneficial microbe tea is like giving your plants a shot of steroids. It's the real sauce that brings my grows together.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I have roots organic. Really just a small amount work?. will of course follow instructions. Also is it ok to mix my liquid nutes with the terp tea?

@radrichie61 I just saw this. Sorry for the late response.

I use the "Roots Organic Terp Tea" line-up. Green, Red, and Pink bag. Yes, the pink is called "bloom booster" but it's not the same as a specialized P or K booster. It's part of roots organic terp tea 3 part organic nutrient line. The Microbe Charge (blue bag) is also part of the terp teas product line. It's the "special sauce." They were made to play well together.

I re-read your earlier posts. It sounds like you're already doing what I would do in your situation. No need to change what's working. Carry on and enjoy your grow. It looks good so far. Only thing I'd worry about is finishing your crop before bad weather sets in and makes conditions difficult. In my area, that's mid October ...

Edit: As for using your liquid nutes with "Microbe Charge," it won't harm anything. The best use of beneficial microbes is in organic gardening, and the best use of "Microbe charge" in my opinion is brewed as a tea with one of the other 3 parts of the "Terp Tea" line up based on the plant's stage of growth. I've used other products and this is the line up I like best.

 

[ritoMox]

Only thing I'd worry about is finishing your crop before bad weather sets in and makes conditions difficult.

He said that he's a beginner, so would you recommend that he get a move-on with Light Deprivation to finish up? Link: Light Dep vs Outdoor: Why Light Deprivation Greenhouses Are A Good Investment
Edit: On second thought, if he's already below 12 daylight, how would light dep help to speed things up? More darkness = faster mature time?

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

He said that he's a beginner, so would you recommend that he get a move-on with Light Deprivation to finish up? Link: Light Dep vs Outdoor: Why Light Deprivation Greenhouses Are A Good Investment

I'm not sure. It's not that light deprivation is a bad idea. It's late in the season so you wouldn't gain much time. Light deprivation systems are best used to start flowering earlier so they finish before fall. They can also be costly depending on what kind a person chooses. (manual vs automated) I have lights and a timer in my greenhouse to extend light hours when the days are short (spring) but I don't use light deprivation.

For a northern grower, the best thing to do is choose a strain that will finish easily within the grow season for your area.

 

[AirHammer]

Pbp bloom and bat poo are two garden staples I used for years. The Guano is like magic pixie dust to buds. A couple weeks after applicating has them drooping unable to hold up.

One small concern if that is sugar production is a tad lower than I'd like to be seeing with these. It should pick up.

Ill hit them with round one of super poo tomorrow morning, then expect 7-8 days of blue skies.

soil Ph in 6-1 - 6.6 range.
age 2.2 weeks.
The dog fur is extra :/

 

[radrichie61]

I'm not sure. It's not that light deprivation is a bad idea. It's late in the season so you wouldn't gain much time. Light deprivation systems are best used to start flowering earlier so they finish before fall. They can also be costly depending on what kind a person chooses. (manual vs automated) I have lights and a timer in my greenhouse to extend light hours when the days are short (spring) but I don't use light deprivation.

For a northern grower, the best thing to do is choose a strain that will finish easily within the grow season for your area.

Hey thanks Grampa, I appreciate you always chiming in. It makes me feel confident in your advice. So I have a question now, what’s new, should I defoliate these plants any? Here’s a couple pics of the whole bed and a couple close-ups. Thanks and happy Labor Day.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Hey thanks Grampa, I appreciate you always chiming in. It makes me feel confident in your advice. So I have a question now, what’s new, should I defoliate these plants any? Here’s a couple pics of the whole bed and a couple close-ups. Thanks and happy Labor Day.View attachment 1278260View attachment 1278261View attachment 1278262View attachment 1278263View attachment 1278264View attachment 1278265

Again, defoliation is a heavily debated topic. I can tell you what I do. It works for me very well both indoors and out. I'm not sure where your plants are at and the kind of climate you're in but here in Michigan Autumn has pulled into the driveway and is about to start knocking on the door. We can expect cooler night week after week leading up to our first frost which will likely fall sometime around the first week of October. Maybe a little before or a little after. Michigan has water on 3 sides so fall brings a lot of cloudy days and a lot more rain. So combined with cooler night time temps and a lot more humidity, it becomes a challenge to get your outdoor plants to finish. The plants must have leaves to finish maturing, but they also must be thinned out enough so they have good airflow and can breathe. If the weather is cold and wet, you'll need to remove more green in the middle of the plant. If you're in an area where days are still warm and anywhere between dry and arrid, you can leave more green on the plant.

Looking at your plants, it looks like you've already done some pruning. If so, cut off any leaves that are touching the ground if they are still present on the plant. Also cut off any fan leaves that are growing inwards towards the main stem. After that, how much more you cut will depend on how the plant is growing and whether or not there's adequate airflow through the interior of the plant. If you're in an area that is prone to mold, you may want to remove a few more fan leaves towards the tops of the plants. I used LST and super-cropping in my greenhouse to force the plants to grow the way I wanted them to. But to do that, I started when the plants were still in veg. I also started my plants mid May and didn't move them outside until June 20th with the whole intent of keeping them smaller and avoiding the extra density that makes it easier for mold and WPM to take hold.

Your plants look healthy, although small ... like you started them late to intentionally keep them small ... probably don't need a lot of extra leaves cut off. Just cut what will improve airflow and reduce humidity in the center of the plant like I described above.

 

[AirHammer]

I like botanicare pro bloom. Been using it and liquid k for years. I didn't see results that made the K seem worth the added cost. Im not cheap by any means so it has more to do with weather something works well or doesn't


It helps but not by a leap or any bound.

 

[Glomus]

Good evening, hey I have a question. As a beginner I think I am around week four of flower. Does anyone have any opinion on whether the use of bloom boosters is worth it, and if so, recommended for novices? I like to think I am an advanced beginner maybe.

If you are pro boosters, do you make your own or buy. I’m thinking about combining very low numbers of cottonseed meal with a nitrogen content about two, and utilizing bonemeal at a phosphorus level of about 30 or 40, and potassium about 20 during this part of flower stage. Any thoughts on that? Oh, using potash for K but I thought I remember reading it wasn’t a great source of K. Any suggestions on a quality source for mixing into solution. I am mixing several product from a company called high-yield such as cottonseed meal, bonemeal, super phosphate, and potash.

Additionally I added roots organic microbe charge and a little bit of cal mag to my solution and brewEd for 24 hours. Trying to keep my soil levels at a pH of 6.5 or so. Has not been easy or successful
Finally, do I check the pH, and I think it’s gonna be a yes, of my liquid fertilizer mix I’m applying. Why wouldn’t I?

Thanks in advance!
View attachment 1277687View attachment 1277688View attachment 1277689View attachment 1277690

Looks like these plants started to flower and went back into veg maybe, bud structure looks off, what strain is it? But yeah if you want to add Phosphorous and you haven't already amended the soil with a phosphorous source, don't waste your money on bloom boosters and stuff like Botanicare pro. Just use Miracle Grow. if you want a cheap effective solution to beef up the buds. Many times Ive used bloom boosters and other expensive additives and products that seem to have created more problems for me more times then not. I amend my soil with guano and crabmeal personally. (But when it comes inoculating don't cheap out on a solid inoculation product.) When in doubt leave out, best fertilizer is the foot steps of the farmer.

 

[Glomus]

I'm not sure. It's not that light deprivation is a bad idea. It's late in the season so you wouldn't gain much time. Light deprivation systems are best used to start flowering earlier so they finish before fall. They can also be costly depending on what kind a person chooses. (manual vs automated) I have lights and a timer in my greenhouse to extend light hours when the days are short (spring) but I don't use light deprivation.

For a northern grower, the best thing to do is choose a strain that will finish easily within the grow season for your area.

Light deps grow better weed. Mostly because you are controlling the light cycle I think. Where as full seasons have a tough transition into flower sometimes.