GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
Looks like covercrop comin in nicely
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
Covercrop contains
Flax - Carter
Clover - Yellow Sweet
Clover - White Dutch
Clover - Medium Red
Clover - Crimson
Lentils - Indainhead
Millet - White Proso
Vetch - Hairy
Vetch - Common
Cowpeas - Iron and Clay
Buckwheat - Mancan
Pea - Forage
Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations
Flax - Carter
Clover - Yellow Sweet
Clover - White Dutch
Clover - Medium Red
Clover - Crimson
Lentils - Indainhead
Millet - White Proso
Vetch - Hairy
Vetch - Common
Cowpeas - Iron and Clay
Buckwheat - Mancan
Pea - Forage
Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
Added 2 ladies to outdoors! Gg4,agent diesel! Put worms & cropcover in today gg4 will be going into 100 gal pot
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
Fed today ro water & bioag/fulpower
No ph no ppm
No ph no ppm
Bulldog11
- 2,709
- 263
lovin those cover crops in your keg cups. I usually just cover crop my main containers/beds. Maybe I will take a note out of your playbook.
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
I have worms in the cups , so when i mulch covercrop i put clippings back in there to feed the worms , each cup has bout 5 worms plants are doing very well no ph no ppm
Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations
Designed To Encourage Mycorrhizal Fungi Populations
Bulldog11
- 2,709
- 263
How are worms helping with Mycorrhizal? I was under the impression that crops like c4 cover crops when harvested or cut way back produce Mycorrhizal...... Very interested.
Edit: ummm, I think I missed the point. Sorry. You were talking about the cover crop weren't you?
Edit: ummm, I think I missed the point. Sorry. You were talking about the cover crop weren't you?
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
TrubldBreeze
- 720
- 243
On my wish list :)
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
I like cuz im going no-til, they carry everything malted barley, coconut powder, aloevera powder, rockdust ,soil, worms, neem etc...
Reeferkief
- 36
- 33
Nice score on the PAG gear! Just a heads up brother it might be late but I could help you source malted grains in bulk most likely a lot cheaper I love BAS and Jeremy but pinch dollars were we can you know! The cover crop mix is full of beneficial properties, fixing of multiple different elements and of course due to the root exudates and myco relationship they will increase your soil life along with superb water retention, then feed it right back with chop and drop I still question any reasoning behind having no mulch to any gardener(even indoor containers) something I bring up to Eco often. I can also help you create a cover crop mix for your geographical location and cheaper for bulk through another company. Powdered Malted grains with a fulvic/humic acid used as a catalyst(topdressed/watered in) is insane just wait tell you see! If you want to save money possibly look into malted corn for cytokine and enzymes instead of coconut but I hear the combination of both brings different beneficial properties other then cytokines. Any plans set for IPM routine? Please share pest prevention is priority behind soil life in my opinion. I'll share some files and such!
Last edited:
Reeferkief
- 36
- 33
Good explanation on rock dust from my friend Antonio Baccus of Modern Microbes, if you
"Rock Dust & Remineralization
If you’re coming into organic growing and perhaps done a bit of light reading, you’ve likely noticed the term remineralization in many of your sources. If you haven’t, remineralization is the utilization of rock dust in your soil to provide a slow release of minerals and trace elements. Using rock dust in your garden mimics the earths natural cycle of fertility, as soil and rock wear down and are leached into the water it accumulates in glaciers; during ice age these minerals are returned to earth. Over time volcanic activity pulls minerals and metals from their slumber deep in the earth, and volcanic ash helps spread them to the wind. But not all rock dust are equal, or optimal for any grow condition. Let’s take a look at their differences, and find which will work best for your garden. The major types of rock dust, or remineralization products, marketed to growers today are: Azomite, Glacial Rock Dust, Basalt, Gypsum, and Sea-90. That’s quite a selection, and some have uses that others do not, so rightfully some people may be confused about which to use, or which ones are okay to be used together.
Azomite®: The name itself stands for “A to Z of Minerals Including Trace Elements”. Azomite® is a combination of volcanic dust that filled a nearby seabed, creating hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate with the presence of other trace minerals. Azomite® contains a rather high amount of metal ions. In particular aluminum, some of which has already bound with silica to form aluminosilicate which will not be broken down by bacteria found in most soil; further any extra aluminum binds with silica you water-in, forming more non-soluble aluminosilicate. Containing the highest amount of lead and arsenic of any of the rock dust, which is a serious consideration for the average gardener not only in handling and safety, but when growing crops that could accumulate those compounds. It does however, contain the greatest amounts of rare elements and minerals, which is particularly useful when growing food crops. All in all, Azomite® is a suitable tool for mineralization if it’s what’s on hand locally, or if growing food, but perhaps not if growing cannabis.
Glacial Rock Dust: GRD (Glacial Rock Dust) as the name implies, is rock dust that is the result of weathering of rocks that has accrued in glacial formation; then as the glaciers recede they leave behind a glacial moraine. These glacial moraines are then mined, and the product is sold as GRD. GRD does not have quite as many rare elements as Azomite®, but it contains much lower aluminum, lead, and arsenic levels. It’s worth considering that Cannabis accumulates metals found in the soil, so if growing for smoke, GRD will contribute less impurities to the end product. The magnesium levels found in GRD is perfect for recycling soil, and contributing a slow but balanced level of magnesium.
Basalt: Basalt Rock Dust is made from igneous rock which means it hasn’t been processed or had any of nutrients leached, as consequence it has most of the rare elements found in Azomite®, while having incredibly low levels of the elements that are more toxic (lead, arsenic, etc.). Basalt has quite a high amount of silica, and weathers much quicker than any other rock dust, so it becomes available quicker. It’s also a good slow source of Phosphorus & Potassium, and will balance the pH of the soil. It provide some of the lowest sodium levels of any rock dust, and is found in great amounts, so generally speaking one of the cheapest of the rock dust. Glacial Rock Dust and Basalt together provide all the elements needed for mineralization of a medical garden, in my anecdotal experience.
Gypsum: Gypsum is Calcium Sulfate, so unlike the rest of the rock dust, it is not a composite of many different minerals and trace elements. However, it’s such a powerhouse it’s the one rock dust you absolutely shouldn’t omit. It helps with aeration in compacted soil, desalting the soil, provides an excellent source of calcium as well as sulfur, while balancing the soil pH. more. When trying to keep proper magnesium levels in your soil for recycling I’d recommend using gypsum for liming agent rather than dolomite, as not only will gypsum not add unneeded magnesium to the soil, it will provide more immediately available calcium than most other organic sources, such as oyster shell flour. Combining oyster shell flour and gypsum in your compost, top dressing, and soil will provide more than enough calcium to never use a product like cal-mag again. Topdressing gypsum as you begin bringing out the fade in your plant will provide a source of sulfur, increasing the terpene content before harvest.
Sea-90: Sea-90 is produced by solar dehydrating seawater trapped in retention ponds located in a secluded coastal area; in other words unrefined sea salt. Sea-90 is not a rock dust but since it’s used for remineralization I wanted to include it. Now, since Sea-90 is produced from seawater it contains a staggering amount of sodium and chloride, roughly 77% of each sea-90 crystal in fact. This massive amount of sodium and chlorine will definitely have an effect on microbiotic life, some of which can not handle the osmotic stress and toxicity. Sea-90 is water soluble though, and with the remaining 23% of each sea-90 crystal being minerals, metals, and elements it has the advantage of not having to wait for a rock dust to weather, but with the relatively toxic nature of chlorine and sodium, water solubility may not warrant it’s usage.
Now that you’re familiar with the differences between each product, you can start making your mineral mix confidently. For those of you curious about what I use personally, my mineral mix is:
2 part Oyster Shell Flour
2 part Gypsum
1 part Glacial Rock Dust
1 part Basalt
1 part Calcium Bentonite – I didn’t include more information about this, as it’s a clay and not used strictly for remineralization but instead for increasing the cation-ion exchange capacity of the soil.
This mineral mix is used at a rate of 3 cups per cuFt of soil"
"Rock Dust & Remineralization
If you’re coming into organic growing and perhaps done a bit of light reading, you’ve likely noticed the term remineralization in many of your sources. If you haven’t, remineralization is the utilization of rock dust in your soil to provide a slow release of minerals and trace elements. Using rock dust in your garden mimics the earths natural cycle of fertility, as soil and rock wear down and are leached into the water it accumulates in glaciers; during ice age these minerals are returned to earth. Over time volcanic activity pulls minerals and metals from their slumber deep in the earth, and volcanic ash helps spread them to the wind. But not all rock dust are equal, or optimal for any grow condition. Let’s take a look at their differences, and find which will work best for your garden. The major types of rock dust, or remineralization products, marketed to growers today are: Azomite, Glacial Rock Dust, Basalt, Gypsum, and Sea-90. That’s quite a selection, and some have uses that others do not, so rightfully some people may be confused about which to use, or which ones are okay to be used together.
Azomite®: The name itself stands for “A to Z of Minerals Including Trace Elements”. Azomite® is a combination of volcanic dust that filled a nearby seabed, creating hydrated sodium calcium aluminosilicate with the presence of other trace minerals. Azomite® contains a rather high amount of metal ions. In particular aluminum, some of which has already bound with silica to form aluminosilicate which will not be broken down by bacteria found in most soil; further any extra aluminum binds with silica you water-in, forming more non-soluble aluminosilicate. Containing the highest amount of lead and arsenic of any of the rock dust, which is a serious consideration for the average gardener not only in handling and safety, but when growing crops that could accumulate those compounds. It does however, contain the greatest amounts of rare elements and minerals, which is particularly useful when growing food crops. All in all, Azomite® is a suitable tool for mineralization if it’s what’s on hand locally, or if growing food, but perhaps not if growing cannabis.
Glacial Rock Dust: GRD (Glacial Rock Dust) as the name implies, is rock dust that is the result of weathering of rocks that has accrued in glacial formation; then as the glaciers recede they leave behind a glacial moraine. These glacial moraines are then mined, and the product is sold as GRD. GRD does not have quite as many rare elements as Azomite®, but it contains much lower aluminum, lead, and arsenic levels. It’s worth considering that Cannabis accumulates metals found in the soil, so if growing for smoke, GRD will contribute less impurities to the end product. The magnesium levels found in GRD is perfect for recycling soil, and contributing a slow but balanced level of magnesium.
Basalt: Basalt Rock Dust is made from igneous rock which means it hasn’t been processed or had any of nutrients leached, as consequence it has most of the rare elements found in Azomite®, while having incredibly low levels of the elements that are more toxic (lead, arsenic, etc.). Basalt has quite a high amount of silica, and weathers much quicker than any other rock dust, so it becomes available quicker. It’s also a good slow source of Phosphorus & Potassium, and will balance the pH of the soil. It provide some of the lowest sodium levels of any rock dust, and is found in great amounts, so generally speaking one of the cheapest of the rock dust. Glacial Rock Dust and Basalt together provide all the elements needed for mineralization of a medical garden, in my anecdotal experience.
Gypsum: Gypsum is Calcium Sulfate, so unlike the rest of the rock dust, it is not a composite of many different minerals and trace elements. However, it’s such a powerhouse it’s the one rock dust you absolutely shouldn’t omit. It helps with aeration in compacted soil, desalting the soil, provides an excellent source of calcium as well as sulfur, while balancing the soil pH. more. When trying to keep proper magnesium levels in your soil for recycling I’d recommend using gypsum for liming agent rather than dolomite, as not only will gypsum not add unneeded magnesium to the soil, it will provide more immediately available calcium than most other organic sources, such as oyster shell flour. Combining oyster shell flour and gypsum in your compost, top dressing, and soil will provide more than enough calcium to never use a product like cal-mag again. Topdressing gypsum as you begin bringing out the fade in your plant will provide a source of sulfur, increasing the terpene content before harvest.
Sea-90: Sea-90 is produced by solar dehydrating seawater trapped in retention ponds located in a secluded coastal area; in other words unrefined sea salt. Sea-90 is not a rock dust but since it’s used for remineralization I wanted to include it. Now, since Sea-90 is produced from seawater it contains a staggering amount of sodium and chloride, roughly 77% of each sea-90 crystal in fact. This massive amount of sodium and chlorine will definitely have an effect on microbiotic life, some of which can not handle the osmotic stress and toxicity. Sea-90 is water soluble though, and with the remaining 23% of each sea-90 crystal being minerals, metals, and elements it has the advantage of not having to wait for a rock dust to weather, but with the relatively toxic nature of chlorine and sodium, water solubility may not warrant it’s usage.
Now that you’re familiar with the differences between each product, you can start making your mineral mix confidently. For those of you curious about what I use personally, my mineral mix is:
2 part Oyster Shell Flour
2 part Gypsum
1 part Glacial Rock Dust
1 part Basalt
1 part Calcium Bentonite – I didn’t include more information about this, as it’s a clay and not used strictly for remineralization but instead for increasing the cation-ion exchange capacity of the soil.
This mineral mix is used at a rate of 3 cups per cuFt of soil"
pimpin
strain hoarder
Supporter
- 1,045
- 113
Doing good ill be stickin around watchin if u dont mind
TrubldBreeze
- 720
- 243
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
Hell ya brother! Im lookin for a caterpillar foliar, i hear SAFER is good but i heard that BT is a poison dont really foliar that on plants yu know, be back in a bit getn my taxes done!!
Bulldog11
- 2,709
- 263
bt is a poison.....for humans? Would love a link to that. As I use the stuff every year. Og bio war also has it in it also.
GrowingGreen
- 2,441
- 263
CONTROLLING THOSE CRITTERS: HOW TO USE PESTICIDES SAFELY
Written by: Danny Klittich & Bob Starnes
A pesticide is a chemical or biological agent that deters, incapacitates, kills or otherwise discourages pests. Pesticides are widely used in the agricultural industry, but the number of different products on the shelves of your local hydro shop can make choosing difficult. Danny Klittich and Bob Starnes share some tips to help you wade through the plethora of products available and answer some common questions people have about pesticides to help you determine what you should be spraying.
Pesticides are broadly defined as any material used with the intention of controlling and managing a pest. Annual global pesticide sales are in the billions of dollars, and the number of different pesticides available at garden centers can be overwhelming. The assortment of brightly colored bottles and pictures of pests crawling off the labels are eye-catching, but how do you compare multiple products that claim to kill the same thing? How do you know how hazardous to human health each product is? What does it really kill? How long does it work? How long after application should you wait to harvest the plant? All of these questions can be answered somewhere on the label, but this article will discuss some simple aspects of pesticides that you can discern just from looking at the front of the bottle. We will also share some safety advice and resources that will help you learn more about what you are spraying or what you should be spraying.
Types
The word pesticide can be used to describe literally anything you intend to use to kill something. This includes materials such as rubbing alcohol, hand soap, bleach and even a high-pressure spray of water. Because of this broad definition, we often refer to pesticides by their target. For example, pesticides that target insects are insecticides, products that target weeds are herbicides and materials that target plant pathogens are fungicides, just to name a few.
Pesticides are further classified based on their mode of action, or the specific way in which a product kills the target pest. For example, horticultural oil suffocates the insect, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a stomach poison and neonicotinoids are neuro-active insecticides. Many products act on specific physiological pathways within the target organism and, like the neonicotinoids, have more complicated modes of action. The mode of action is extremely important to know if you are applying pesticides repeatedly to a crop. It is possible for the pest to develop resistance to a single mode of action. For this reason you should always rotate your pesticides between multiple modes of action.
If you would like to learn more about different modes of action or find out what mode of action a product is, the Insecticide Resistant Action Committee, an international organization devoted to reducing pesticide resistance, has all the details at irac-online.org. The site also lists all insecticides by active ingredient and where they fall by mode of action to enable you to rotate products appropriately. There are many examples of pesticide-resistant pests, from whiteflies to weeds, and this is an important issue in a production setting as well as at home.
Breaking Down the Label
The pesticide label is a federally regulated legal document that is required to be on every container of product sold. There are different registrations for agricultural versus home use and there can also be state-mandated labeling rules on top of that. California, Washington and New York have some of the strictest pesticide labeling laws and regulations, and many pesticides take longer to get registered in these states. Because pesticide labels are regulated by the federal government, there are several attributes of a product that must be listed on the label. Thanks to this, deciphering pesticide options becomes much easier.
One of the most helpful bits of information on a label, from a purchasing standpoint, is the active ingredient, or the substance that does the killing. This is usually found towards the bottom of the front colored label on the bottle. The active ingredient is listed as a percentage, which allows you to compare products based on the amount of product in the bottle. For example, a bottle of concentrate may have 80% of the active ingredient, but a bottle of ready-to-use product in a spray bottle may have only 2.5%. It is common for different companies to sell the same active ingredients under different names. This active ingredients section allows you to compare different brands. It’s also helpful to look at the other ingredients in the bottle, which may contribute to the efficacy of the product, but not actually kill the target. For example, some products include water conditioners and other compounds that increase coverage on plants.
The front of the bottle will also have helpful information like the trade name, or the name assigned by the company for marketing purposes. This is done so you do not have to remember you used glyphosate to kill your weeds last time—the name Round-Up may pop back into your mind a bit faster. You can also find the EPA registration number showing the EPA has approved the product for sale, and another important thing to look for is the signal word. This is a single word you can pick out that is prominently displayed, allowing you to determine how hazardous the product is. The signal words are Caution, Warning and Danger/Poison, in order of increasing hazard, so you know instantly if you are dealing with a product that could be hazardous to your health.
Safety Considerations
When using pesticides, always read the entire label before opening the container. Many people only look for the directions on how much to use, but the label also has important information that goes beyond this, such as what to do if you spill some on your skin, what safety gear you need to wear when you are spraying it, and what pests it kills. It cannot be emphasized enough how important following the label is when applying pesticides, not only for your safety, but also for the efficacy of the product.
More is not always better. Application rates are written based on tests the manufacturer performs to maximize efficacy. Some insecticide and fungicide products may harm the plant if concentrations are too high. For example, horticultural oil is a common product for controlling insects and plant pathogens, but if you spray too much, you can actually suffocate the leaves of the plant. This is a great example because horticultural oil is also used as a dormant spray on fruit trees and rose plants when there are no leaves. This allows it to be used at a higher rate. If you do not read the entire label and only pull the dormant spray rate, you can defoliate your plants.
Pesticides are a controversial topic in many circles and even organically registered products require proper handling and application. It is important to remember that the reason you are applying pesticides is to kill another organism and this is inherently hazardous. Even products marketed as safe, such as pepper or garlic oil, can be eye and lung irritants. If you are interested in learning more, the National Pesticide Information Center’s website, npic.orst.edu, is a great resource.
Reeferkief
- 36
- 33
I use my custom Essential Oil Mix, Neem Oil, OHN, Insect Frass, Aloe Vera, Silica, and LAB that's really it. Most of my amendments and such have pest prevention properties too. I like to plant some fragrant herbs, biodynamic accumulators and beneficial insect attracting plants around my plots too for extra ummph. Going to try out some nano breathe from Eco this year too see what the buzz is about and I'm also trying to develop a Solid State Fermentation(SSF) inoculant with a lot of different beneficial fungi, bacteria, and properties for triggering defensive responses. It's work in progress but having fun doing it!
TrubldBreeze
- 720
- 243
I was watching some subcool vids yesterday. Any experience with using lemon juice or potassium sorbate sprayed as preventative.
Anyone use this?
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
Anyone use this?
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
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