Ph runoff is too low.

[Danked]

Hard to say... hasn't been long enough ; ) and whats sea green?

edit: just googled 'sea green nutrient' and came across some Primordial Solutions Sea Green... is this what you mean?

 

[ftwendy]

Yep. That's the magic stuff right there.

Add it to your regimen @ 1ml/gal and don't look back. It's expensive initially, but a bottle lasts forever, especially if you only use it for root drenches. Here's a link to some information about it

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/primordial-solutions-sea-green.51504/

That's the secret right there bro. It's a game changer.

 

[Prime C]

How are things now? I hope the flushing effort paid off

Are you using sea green?

Yeah I been using the sea green. That room is doin great now stacking real nice @ 4 weeks in. ;)

 

[Seamaiden]

A lot of people cut their RO with tap, for a few reasons. One may be cost, another, much more common/significant reason is to have better pH stability. In relation to a 'flush' that could be a preferable method to using half, third or quarter nutrient strength, and in coir it's always preferable to just using straight RO. Also, not everyone's tap water is chlorinated, LOTS of people, myself included, are on well water. ;)

 

[Danked]

If you already have access to RO, then why would you consider using tap to cut with?
Especially if it's 250ppm…that'd just be defeating the purpose imvho.

Plus as mentioned above, you'd have to de-chlorinize the tap before adding it to the nute mix so what's the point?

Just mix 2 gallons of nutes in a five gallon bucket and then add 2 more gallons of RO to that… There! Now your ppms just dropped in half!

I agree... I didn't originally plan on mixing my RO water with any other water sources, but since I've got a rather 'cheap' RO machine (works great, just not efficient at all)... and it'd take a WHILE to get enough water to flush 6 plants with 5-6 gallons each... that's why I asked if I could 'cut' it. I ended up flushing with a little FloraKleen (5ml/gal), let it have some run-off...sit for about 30-40 minutes...then ran some 50% strength nutes thru it. So far so good on the 2/6 plants I did this to. I'm gonna watch 'em over the next few days and then repeat with the others.

 

[ftwendy]

The snow. It is relentless. I feel for ya six... been moving it for days too

Wake, work, sleep.... repeat.

 

[sixstring]

im actually sittin in my truck puffin a bowl and watchin my guys shovel this fuggin 500 ft long walk that's about 6 inches too narrow for my truck hehehe.they prolly think ima bigger dick then tyy,maybe lol.

 

[Seamaiden]

Haven't you guys heard of a snowblower?

 

[ftwendy]

little thread jack for some flake porn

stay warm :)

 

[Seamaiden]

I've got my Sorel's by the front door!

 

[sixstring]

little thread jack for some flake porn

View attachment 359677

stay warm :)

nice man,all wanna do is wrap this shit up and head north to slay bambie one more time before I cant get into my place.antrim county,prolly got 2 foot on the ground up yonder:(

 

[Danked]

nice man,all wanna do is wrap this shit up and head north to slay bambie one more time before I cant get into my place.antrim county,prolly got 2 foot on the ground up yonder:(

we got probably at least a foot on the ground here around k-zoo...

 

[Danked]

I get what your saying Sea…. and I guess it makes sense I if one needed a buffer because the nutes weren't PH stable to begin with.

But in my case, I use straight RO… and have Never, Ever, found a reason why I needed to cut it with tap.
Especially tap that has a high ppm reading to begin with.
just doesn't make sense to me.

My nutes Never sit longer then 24 hours tho.

My plants are all in absolute perfect health and haven't seen a deficiency in quite a while now.

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of nutes/set-up do you run? Curious ...cuz I'm going to switch from H&G after this run is over.

 

[Danked]

Just those 4? I'm guessing in coco too?

 

[Danked]

Hi Danked!
Been using the same base nutes for years.
Especially after venturing off and trying H&G, CES, Canna, etc etc…
Nothing else compares imvho.


Base Nutes;
___________
Protekt Silica
Magical
GH Micro & Bloom


I no longer use any additives, boosters, and have Never needed anything like Drip Clean to flush salts out with.

I grow in 100% RW …….My system is DTW (all plumbing leads outside) and is automated.

All plants in every stage get watered/fed once a day until lots of runoff.

My set up is completely dialed and I average 2lbs per light every harvest.

That's funny your reply/answer just happens to be GH micro/bloom. I was already thinking about going back to GH too. I did 2 runs with their micro/bloom and calimagic (and had some success). Then cuz I got some free samples/gifts of H&G nutes, I figured I'd see how I liked them since I had heard some good things. I'm not too impressed. Granted, this run isn't finished...I'm just getting started in flowering (and maybe that's where the magic happens with H&G), but I did veg some big plants...and my plants were way healthier when I was using GH over the same amount of time. And they also didn't get salt build-up as quickly. So I think I know what I'm going to do after this run....as long as I'm staying synthetic..

 

[JACKMAYOFFER]

I never flush coco with just RO it causes all kinds of problems the biggest is PH.. Always flush you're coco with base and cal mag.. Never just RO . Alot of times when people are flushing it's just the opposite coco and the plants need something you're not giving them... Flushing plants with RO in coco has never worked for me... But flushing with nutes and calmag has... I have done it from 250 ppm all the way to 1200 ppm... Jack..

 

[CaliShark]

Sea maiden I read you never check run off ppm...are you growing coco or soil? Only reason I ask is because I wasn't checking run off ppm either, was feeding 850ppm mix week 5 flower and started to notice clawing. Checked run off and it was pegged 2000+ppm. I've been trying to flush with a low ppm nute mix 400-500 ppm for about 3 going on my 4th watering and still can't seem to get my ppm under control. Run off ph is 5.8-5.9. Plants look better after I've been watering lower ppm mix. I'm using Jacks nutes. Only thing I can think I'm doing wrong is letting pots dry out to much, so I'm going to keep pots moist and see what happens.

If I'm understand how to read runoff correctly is if I'm feeding 850 ppm 5.8ph in, my runoff should be lower then 850ppm and ph remains stable at 5.8. Am I understanding correctly?

 

[Seamaiden]

Indoors I prefer coir (but am still aiming to give Pro-Mix and Sunshine #4 a try someday). And the reason why I don't [gauge media conditions] is because I tried to solve problems using that method and it just wasn't working. I also found myself chasing numbers when the plants appeared to be fine, and I've had way too much experience in fishkeeping with how well chasing numbers can go--you've got to go first by your own observations of the organism in question.

Now, with regard to your feeding regimen, it's been a while since I've done synthetics, so I want to be sure everyone is clear on that. Thus, I have never used Jack's. But to me synthetics are the same in a few regards, so I think I may be able to help you here but if there's someone with direct experience who says otherwise, go with them, k?

What I would do in this scenario is first make 100% sure that your meter is properly calibrated. I use the two-point calibration method for pH, and the appropriate solution for EC. I also don't use ppm or TDS, I go with EC. Mentally it's a big conversion, but if you keep switching (or simply keep your notations in both ppm and EC) then you'll get a feel for where you want things to be. Now that that's out of the way, I would drop the strength of the feed a lot more than where you're landing, I would go with around 250ppm @.5 conversion (that's what...? .2-.3EC?).

I would also perform a few slurry tests, taking media samples from various depths of each pot, including upending some plants and getting some of that from the middle of the root zone, assuming you're able to do that--if in something like a Smart Pot, then that would be a pain in the ass and traumatic for the plant, so I'd just dig down the side.

Slurry test is outlined in og dmc's thread Botanicare COCO Bales by a Botanicare rep (or something like that), and briefly:

Well mixed sample set from all pots to be tested in something like a cup, if possible get samples from top, middle and bottom (can be taken from the side of the pot).
Have about a pint to a quart of RO or distilled water handy, test the temp, pH and EC of that sample.
Note those parameters.
Add enough of that water to your media samples to create a very wet slurry, you should be able to see some water above the sample.
Let that sit for 7-10 minutes, then retest.

Now you're going to have a much better idea of what's actually happening in the root zone, not just what's being washed out.

 

[ttystikk]

250ppm/(ec x 500)=.5 ec

Sea may be humble about her experience with various approaches, but her instincts are right on. Developing a feel for this is key, because the instruments can only tell you so much.

Calibrating your testing equipment regularly is important, as is getting used to using ec as your scale. The problem with ppm scales is that there are several, they don't look any different- and if you convert wrong, you really screw yourself. So convert everything to ec, and save ppms for discussing carbon dioxide levels in your growroom.

@putembk has excellent luck with sunshine #4, he says he adds a bit of dolomite lime and his girls look great!

 

[putembk]

250ppm/(ec x 500)=.5 ec

Sea may be humble about her experience with various approaches, but her instincts are right on. Developing a feel for this is key, because the instruments can only tell you so much.

Calibrating your testing equipment regularly is important, as is getting used to using ec as your scale. The problem with ppm scales is that there are several, they don't look any different- and if you convert wrong, you really screw yourself. So convert everything to ec, and save ppms for discussing carbon dioxide levels in your growroom.

@putembk has excellent luck with sunshine #4, he says he adds a bit of dolomite lime and his girls look great!

Ty, since you tagged me...will share. Took me a long time to get it to where the soil stayed stable throughout the growing process. At first the ph would drop and then would raise to much. Now it's dialed in for me. That doesn't mean it will work with all grows. I keep it as simple as I can. First I put 1" of perlite in the bottom of the pot for good drainage, next 75/25 sunshine to pearlite a and also mix in 1tsp of dolomite lime in a five gal pot. And after transplanting I add another 1" of perlite to keep everything dry on top. Keep the fungus gnats under control. My soil stay stable through out the grow, maybe climbing just a bit. Thinking though that different nutes might change things just a bit. I keep my runoff between 5.8 and 6.2. All stays green and lush until I start dropping the N.