physan f'd my plants up.

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Capulator

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I think that using physan at the dosage of 2 ml/gal. in the res has f'd my plants up. It was the only thing I added to the regimine the past couple weeks. I wanted to implement a preventative maintenance program for root rot. Added the physan and left it in the tank for three days. Flushed after that. Added nutes 1/2 strength.

Plants went droopy. Seems it affected the root system. When I put them under cover and got the humidity up to 90%, the leaves go turgid again.

WTF? This was really punch one of the one two punch.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

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I have found that physan and bleach treatments that work very well in most hydro media have a seriously phytotoxic effect on plants in rdwc. They just cant handle the 24/7 root to product contact.

My advice is scale it way back or use it right before a change out.
 
M

MIway

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Physan is a sterilizer... and at 2ml per gal... will kill off living plant cells. If you root fed em... likely you poisened em.

I'd flush the heck out of all the rez's & lines & medium.


Never did a rez feed... only to sterilize my lines after/between runs. But I do know that if I foliar it at anything close to the label... it burns/kills leaf tissue, so...
 
Capulator

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Did any of you guys read dizzles one two punch.. Combining physan in the rea, followed by hydrofungicide?
 
M

mrdizzle

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1ml per 3gals bro, or 1tsp per 15gal of nutes is the dose
 
Capulator

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Dear Dizzle,

Did that. Exact specs. You do it while the plants are in the system right? I was afraid I misunderstood... BUT (the following message was jacked from another thread):

One-Two Punch Directions for a Nasty Reservoir

1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet.


The reason the Physan20 is great to use first ONLY IF your tank is nasty is that the Hydro-Fungicide manufacturers suggested use for a problem tank is an application rate of 20ml per GALLON the first day, decreasing each day by 2ml per gallon until you reach 8ml per gallon and continue that out until 10 days has gone by. This is a very large amount and we dont want to see anyone spend that much to clear up a problem when Physan20 can wack it much more efficiently. In the manufacturers defense, they do state that 'it may be best to clean the tank first'.


Fuck it. Ive seen heavier losses. Worse come to worst, I just hack up all my plants and stick them back in to my robocloner. Im still about 6 weeks out from firing up my first MPB, so maybe this is just Gods way of saying my timing was off.

Next time, I will only use the physan between harvests, to clean the system. Thats what has always worked for me in past. I was just trying to kill a little algae on the ebb and flow tables without removing plants. I did add some clearex at the same time and did it on a flush, so the plants were chowing down on physan and sugar water for a couple days. Probably not the best diet for a youngin'...

I just wanted to share my results. Figure we learn at least as much from failing as we do from success.
 
M

mrdizzle

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I think that using physan at the dosage of 2 ml/gal. in the res has f'd my plants up. .

Oh I saw that and thought that was the amount you gave them
because that would be 6x the recommended dose
 
Capulator

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my bad, 2ml per gal was the hydrofungicide. I followed the dosage rate. They were young plants though, so maybe they should have gotten even less.
 
Capulator

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Bleach works much better than what?

If you want to make a comment like that, tell me how you apply bleach to your reservoir. for example, do you use a 10% bleach solution, do you use 10 ml per gallon, do you just dump a bottle in the res and pray?

Show me a side by side where you used bleach as a preventative for brown algae and baddies, compared with hydrofungicide and physan. Only then can you post a comment like "bleach works much better".
 
TrichromeFan

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Bleach works much better than what?

If you want to make a comment like that, tell me how you apply bleach to your reservoir. for example, do you use a 10% bleach solution, do you use 10 ml per gallon, do you just dump a bottle in the res and pray?

Show me a side by side where you used bleach as a preventative for brown algae and baddies, compared with hydrofungicide and physan. Only then can you post a comment like "bleach works much better".

Well, I can't tell you which works better, although mr. dizzle himself experimented running bleach in his battle with the brown algae. I think that if you want his findings, look up his thread, or get the man's opinion himself. I know that he pointed out that the commercial agriculture industry uses a low level of bleach in the feed water for sterilization purposes.

From my personal experience, preventative is not really the way to go. I believe that stuff is best left for when problems arise instead. If you want a real success story, look to gettogro's brown root rdwc thread. He seems to have won the fight today. Good luck there buddy, and remember:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it

-TF
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

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Bleach works much better than what?

If you want to make a comment like that, tell me how you apply bleach to your reservoir. for example, do you use a 10% bleach solution, do you use 10 ml per gallon, do you just dump a bottle in the res and pray?

Show me a side by side where you used bleach as a preventative for brown algae and baddies, compared with hydrofungicide and physan. Only then can you post a comment like "bleach works much better".

funniest post in a long time...

i need to do a side by side, but you can blindly follow some dude who's work you simply cut and paste from eh? And i thought "Physan fucked up your plants?" Your repping it pretty hard after that. lol

anyway, if you want to look at bleach its used in the agriculture industry; however the rate depends heavily upon pH an temps, and i do not want to confuse anyone as bleach is dangerous.

If your interested i included pics from my water treatment textbook, and of my own hospital grade water treatment system with a chlorination detention tank.... hope you like...
 
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Capulator

Capulator

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Approx. 10% bleach solution works awesome and is safe for the plants.

Ive taken my share of horticulture classes, and have about 15 years now of hydro growing under my belt. I have been using bleach for a long time.

I wasnt repping. I was trying to share what happened when I used physan at "the recommended dosage" -10 ml /30gal-in the res with plants in the hopper (something I normally would not consider). Might save someone from making that same mistake.

Your statement "bleach works better", isn't helpful.. give me some specifics. Maybe how you have used it successfully, or point to someone else who has.. kind of like you just did

That was my point, and I apologize if it came across as dickish.

I do not blindly follow, but I do like to try new approaches if they look like they have merit.

Physan is also commercially used to control algae and many types of fungus in the plant world.

Glad you got a good laugh. There were no pictures for me to see.
 
Capulator

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I see the pics now.

That looks like a slightly fancier version of the stealth 200.

DO you incorporate bio filters?
 
Capulator

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Well, I can't tell you which works better, although mr. dizzle himself experimented running bleach in his battle with the brown algae. I think that if you want his findings, look up his thread, or get the man's opinion himself. I know that he pointed out that the commercial agriculture industry uses a low level of bleach in the feed water for sterilization purposes.

From my personal experience, preventative is not really the way to go. I believe that stuff is best left for when problems arise instead. If you want a real success story, look to gettogro's brown root rdwc thread. He seems to have won the fight today. Good luck there buddy, and remember:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it

-TF

No preventative TF!?

What about products like DM zone, or bennys, or CEA's,

I am sure there are lots of things you do that could be considered preventative maintenance. Even washing out your system between harvests.

Personally, I would rather try to make the environment good only for plant growth, and not any other garbage (insects, molds, fungus, etc.)
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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Keeping your rez temps under 66 degrees F should be the only prevention you need to discourage root rot; it has worked for me so far over the years. Never had a problem unless the temps get up to around 70 F or higher. I can't prove this with any clinical/scientific data, but it was advice given to me early on, and seems to work well.
 
Capulator

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"thats pretty much the right dose of physan, I spoke with the company a while back and they said 1ML per 15gal of water.

see how things look, if they get any worse at all, you can leave the physan in the system, which is what had worked best for me when I had some real bad algae( that I made 20times worse with hydrozyme ie realworld experience)

I left the physan in for 3days and it cleaned house,and it breaks down into N and is totally harmless at these doses"

This was taken from ghettogros thread.

1ml per 15 gallon is a far cry from 1 ml/ 3 gal. Ill bet the 10ml I put in the 30 gal res was just too much.


65 degree water is great, but when you have some rot, you have some rot.
 
Capulator

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fuck.

Not sure what happened. All i know is after I added the physan, plant leaves wilted. Roots just died. I had to put everything in a make shift humidor.

Maybe the plants were just too young. They were barely starting to show roots out of the bottom of a 6" net cup.
 
M

mrdizzle

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yea if your talking about babies them you may have jumped the gun, they maybe have been on their way out anyways.

I think I read u were doing ebb n flow? Should really have any rot issuse with ebb n flow to be honest
 
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