Please assist me? Ugh

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

Mr. Krinkle said:
OK - ive been at it myself for about just as long...but whatever....so you're still a firm believer in adjusting the ph of your nute solution after all these years....right?

if any micro or macro is not being uptaken by the plant then that creates a bottle neck with other nutes, for instance if the plant needs say 100 ppm calcium & 115 ppm nitrogen if you only supply say 75 ppm calcium then your nitrogen is also limited down to 75% uptake of what it can uptake in a perfect situation, PH plays a good role in this availability, along with not over supplying any micro or macro which most people do with high (P) bloom ratios which is in no way great for plants, its actually bad because it creates a bottleneck as I described. correctly balanced nutes with correct PH = the very best results that can be achieved (taking lights out of the equation that is).

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

Mr. Krinkle said:
OK so which product by Jack's is a 3-1-4? im not seeing that

jacks 321 is a 3-1-4 NPK... the 321 is the mixing ratios in grams per gallon (their hydroponic base, cal nitrate & epsom salt)

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

Mr. Krinkle said:
OK so which product by Jack's is a 3-1-4? im not seeing that

here is the breakdown (I actually do the 3.6, 2.4, 1.2 ratio) thru 100% of the grow unless they look like they could use a break then I run the literal 321 for a feed or 2

bunkerking · Feb 16, 2020

maximusluminous said:
a couple different strains 6 weeks after flip with a nute/water PH of 5.85 to 6.15 religiously, 3-1-4 NPK, no (P) boosters or cal mag, in both rockwool & coco & perlite.. never test runoff either.. but ok. My plants health is 2nd to none!

So you do adjust and check your ph... meh. I'm audi. I got better shit to do today.

GNick55 · Feb 16, 2020

Aphex.dave said:
Sure this was mentioned above but from what little I know it better to shoot for a window of ph, each time go close to your target but allow it to wander a little under a little over as you make it up, that way the small variation gives you better chance of getting the required range of nuits it's also easier than giving exact same ph each time.

believe in yourself, your smart enough to figure it out, it’s good to get advice here, but in the end make your own decisions, as long as a plant is in the vegetative stage you can fix the mistakes, just give it time to recover,
be patient!
less is more!
your learning, accept mistakes if they happen and learn from it.
believe in yourself to become a master growing!

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

bunkerking said:
So you do adjust and check your ph... meh. I'm audi. I got better shit to do today.

I have better weed to grow today...lol. Guess its all about priorities, after all everyone can't be a cup winner ;)

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

Mr. Krinkle said:
OK so which product by Jack's is a 3-1-4? im not seeing that

I do have to adjust the calcium nitrate slightly depending on the strain, if most like the 3.6, 2.4, 1.2 ratio, some will need .2 grams more cal nitrate so 2.6 rather than 2.4 & some will need less than the 2.4 grams per gallon, more like 2.2 grams per gallon, that is about the only adjustment that I have needed. I also use humic acid that has some fulvic acid in it, silica, some microbes & a zyme that keeps the roots clean. I can get 11 harvests in on $250 total worth of nutes & the additives I use (at 12 gallons of nutes/additives per day use for me)

ThatCrazyStonerChick · Feb 16, 2020

maximusluminous said:
a couple different strains 6 weeks after flip with a nute/water PH of 5.85 to 6.15 religiously, 3-1-4 NPK, no (P) boosters or cal mag, in both rockwool & coco & perlite.. never test runoff either.. but ok. My plants health is 2nd to none!

Those are

GNick55 said:
believe in yourself, your smart enough to figure it out, it’s good to get advice here, but in the end make your own decisions, as long as a plant is in the vegetative stage you can fix the mistakes, just give it time to recover,
be patient!
less is more!
your learning, accept mistakes if they happen and learn from it.
believe in yourself to become a master growing!

Thank you for the confidence boost. This is nerve wracking.

ThatCrazyStonerChick · Feb 16, 2020

Has anybody used these? In soil.

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
Has anybody used these? In soil.

Lots of times in my 20 years, tho would never use it again unless I got it for free or like if it were 1/12th the price it costs

MIMedGrower · Feb 16, 2020

maximusluminous said:
well you correct your medium PH with the PH of the water & nutes you feed the soil, no?

No. You shouldnt have to but is entirely dependent on source water alkalinity.

source water with a reasonable ppm immedietely takes on the ph of the buffer (calcium) in the soil.

I use 8.0 ph well water but it only has 150 ppm mineral content and my plants always yellowed until i stopped adding acid (ph down) to it.

I have not adjusted ph in 5 years since and in multiple potting soil mixes.

If the source water is too high in minerals then it should be mixed with ro water down to 150 ppm ideally. Adding acid should be a last resort in potting soil. It will eventually eat up the buffer and leave the medium permanently acidic.

The 150 ppm for ideal water comes from greenhouse and nutrient guides from the ag industry. Jacks classic for example intructs what i just wrote.

ThatCrazyStonerChick · Feb 16, 2020

How can you tell by looking at this what the true wattage is?

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

MIMedGrower said:
No. You shouldnt have to but is entirely dependent on source water alkalinity.

source water with a reasonable ppm immedietely takes on the ph of the buffer (calcium) in the soil.

I use 8.0 ph well water but it only has 150 ppm mineral content and my plants always yellowed until i stopped adding acid (ph down) to it.

I have not adjusted ph in 5 years since and in multiple potting soil mixes.

If the source water is too high in minerals then it should be mixed with ro water down to 150 ppm ideally. Adding acid should be a last resort in potting soil. It will eventually eat up the buffer and leave the medium permanently acidic.

The 150 ppm for ideal water comes from greenhouse and nutrient guides from the ag industry. Jacks classic for example intructs what i just wrote.

I guess soil might be that way but I use coco & perlite & rockwool & ph is vital, running 8.0 PH in rockwool??? lol good luck getting anywhere near max growth!!

MIMedGrower · Feb 16, 2020

bunkerking said:
I stopped using cal mag due to cal toxicity with tap. Maybe post some pictures of your grows so we have an idea of your experience?

His info is correct. I tried to explain it back on page one about the original soil mix the op was using.

Now too many irons in the fire to help.

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
How can you tell by looking at this what the true wattage is?

that is not worth the parts it's built from, complete garbage

MIMedGrower · Feb 16, 2020

maximusluminous said:
I guess soil might be that way but I use coco & perlite & rockwool & ph is vital, running 8.0 PH in rockwool??? lol good luck getting anywhere near max growth!!

Yes buffered with lime or oyster shell. Peat lite mixes like promix too. Hydro is different. Nuetral medium. No buffer.

Aphex.dave · Feb 16, 2020

Curious about what the actual power drawn is but you get what you pay for, I'd defo say stear well clear too cheap and ive never even heard of that manufacturer, if it's too good to be true, it usually is, do not get that

MIMedGrower · Feb 16, 2020

ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
This stuff is going into my body one way or another. I don't want to put a put a bunch of unnecessary chemicals into my body if not necessary. I know it's just the growing process, but still...

The bacteria break down organic nutes into the same “chemicals” that salt based nutes are made of. No difference to the plant has been proven and no difference to us.

The food problem has to do with nutrient stripped farmland soil. The organic argument is to help reconstitute barren soil instead of keep adding fertilizer. Very different from a container garden.

MIMedGrower · Feb 16, 2020

maximusluminous said:
if any micro or macro is not being uptaken by the plant then that creates a bottle neck with other nutes, for instance if the plant needs say 100 ppm calcium & 115 ppm nitrogen if you only supply say 75 ppm calcium then your nitrogen is also limited down to 75% uptake of what it can uptake in a perfect situation, PH plays a good role in this availability, along with not over supplying any micro or macro which most people do with high (P) bloom ratios which is in no way great for plants, its actually bad because it creates a bottleneck as I described. correctly balanced nutes with correct PH = the very best results that can be achieved (taking lights out of the equation that is).

True about high phosphorous in any method but the rest of this info does not take into account the potting soil cation exchange (CEC). Or the calcium buffer.

maximusluminous · Feb 16, 2020

Aphex.dave said:
Curious about what the actual power drawn is but you get what you pay for, I'd defo say stear well clear too cheap and ive never even heard of that manufacturer, if it's too good to be true, it usually is, do not get that

the maker is some random low grade electronics company in china, you can contact manufactures & buy this exact light (or many many many many many many many other lights) & you can order 50 of em for super cheap, like $20 each or maybe $30 each & they will put any name you want on em & print whatever name & design/artwork you want on each box.. that is all these BS amazon lights mostly are, mass produced by a few different companies & sold under 10000 different "names" to vendors who ordered em & then list em on amazon to unsuspecting buyers. They even have quantum board clones & Fluence clones, half way decent stuff too

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