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Please assist me? Ugh

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Please assist me? Ugh

ThatCrazyStonerChick 767 Replies 82,659 Views
Page 11 of 39 · Replies 201–220 of 768
#201
Sure this was mentioned above but from what little I know it better to shoot for a window of ph, each time go close to your target but allow it to wander a little under a little over as you make it up, that way the small variation gives you better chance of getting the required range of nuits it's also easier than giving exact same ph each time.
 
#202
Bchbudman said:
I am growing outdoors inside my laundry room that has my 6'x10' grow area isolated from the rest of the room. Aluminum shed is not insulated, but I have ventilation and heater, also good air circulation in the grow area that is isolated from the rest of the shed. I agree that any PH between 7.0PH and 6.0ph will work, mine stays around 6.6ph of my living soil, and water is close to the same. I use tap water that is in a 5gal. Drinking jug, with air stone for oxygenation, and that has been sitting over 24hrs. I always PH the water before I use it in a 1gal spray tank. The pics. Below are the fan leaves from 2 of my bag seeds, 15days old, which have been just topped for the second time. I will say my soil mix of 50% perilite has made a hugh difference in the growth of the plants. Much better oxygenation of the root system, they were just placed in their final pots.(12" plastic with many small drain holes.) My actual grow area is only a 2'x 3', with (1) 600w LED, which by the end of the month will have a 2nd one.View attachment 939194View attachment 939195
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Wait, why do you have to aerate the water if it's not hydro?
 
#203
Aphex.dave said:
Sure this was mentioned above but from what little I know it better to shoot for a window of ph, each time go close to your target but allow it to wander a little under a little over as you make it up, that way the small variation gives you better chance of getting the required range of nuits it's also easier than giving exact same ph each time.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I've been doing. I can't get it to the exact ph so I get it as close as I can and go with it. I've been shooting for 6.8. I do get pretty close, but it's never dead on.
 
#204
if your starting water is on the softer side, like under 200 ppm, and if you're using any type of reputable synthetic base nute, then it should be right around 6.0 ph just from that alone....some additives will leave it the same (synthetic) some will bring it up (silica) but most will bring it down (guano, molasses, fish) - all in all, the best thing i ever did, was throw out my ph pen (which usually isn't very accurate to begin with) and let the medium make it work correctly (which it does)
 
#205
ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
I started using tap water. The ro is $1 gallon. I let the tap sit until I need it, but I fill about 5 at a time. I am ph'ing to about 6.8 though. They're bigger now but I don't think they've made it to veg yet. The 5 blades are just coming up.
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These plants look to be in a very healthy state now and they are in veg. The two main cycles of plant growth you should be concerned with (there are actually 4) are vegetative and flowering.
 
#206
. My first runs seedlings just took forever too. Put em in compost and burned from babies. Seems like you've got it sorted to a good point now though, those plants in cups a few pages back looked great honestly.
I know you were talking about your setup and exhaust and humidifiers etc. too..I wouldn't even worry about them being in your setup yet, until you get em into their next pot size and hot lights on em. Use this time to dial in your space(turn lights on high, see where temps land, get a fan speed controller and see if you can get it low enough to keep moisture in, etc)
I think those little ladies can hang out with a little fan on them and be quite happy for a week or so. Now that you have promix and they're growing you'll be surprised how fast they go after the next transplant. Gotta have that space ready for them so you're not "doing it live"so to say.
 
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#207
ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
This is my first grow and I am messing it up pretty good. I've made almost every mistake you can think of so far. Read on man. It's bad.

My seeds germinated fine. I transplanted them into a soil that I mixed myself with organic potting soil from home depot, pearlite, and peat. First I didn't have the lights low enough and they stretched. Moved to a few inches away from the 900w LED. Made the classic rookie mistake of overwatering. Got fungus gnats. Got rid of them using food grade Diatomaceous earth. Repotted them deeper to encourage more root growth and let medium dry out a bit. Temp is 77 with the use of a heater and RH is 60%. Running a box fan on low and a programmable humidifier. They are in a grow room that I created, which has no exhaust/ ventilation until this weekend. I'm trying to PH my water to 5.5, but it ends up at about 5.7.

My questions are: The bottom leaves are yellowing and I have very slow growth. What caused it and can I fix it? Seeds are expensive and I can't afford this chit. If it's the soil (I don't have a soil PH tester), can I change it out or is it too late for that? I'm not going to stress them out more than I have and I need to save them. I'm truly medical and can't afford to buy at the dispensary any more.
The pic I'm attaching is from a plant germ'd on 1/15, planted on 1/17. Today is 1/29. This is the only plant that is yellowing, but they all have stunted growth. Please tell me they are salvageable.
Click to expand...

What soil are you using here? Seems to be huge chunks of bark in the mix, ideally you want to sift the soil to get rid of any such stuff. The soil looks bone dry which in itelf isn't a great thing, but could also indicate temperatures that are too hot and or light that is too close.

PH isn't really something you need to concern yourself with in soil, especially if no nutrients are yet added. If you just grabbed some random soil, it could be too hot for seedlings. I know you addressed some of these in your post, however I am not sure when the damage to the seedlings was done. Look up the light hanging reccomendations by the light manufacturer. Is the actual wattage 1000w? If so and it is non-dimmable, that is far too much light for seedlings.
 
#208
Growing_Garbage said:
. My first runs seedlings just took forever too. Put em in compost and burned from babies. Seems like you've got it sorted to a good point now though, those plants in cups a few pages back looked great honestly.
I know you were talking about your setup and exhaust and humidifiers etc. too..I wouldn't even worry about them being in your setup yet, until you get em into there next pot size and hot lights on em. Use this time to dial in your space(turn lights on high, see where temps land, get a fan speed controller and see if you can get it low enough to keep moisture in, etc)
I think those little ladies can hang out with a little fan on them and be quite happy for a week or so. Now that you have promix and they're growing you'll be surprised how fast they go after the next transplant. Gotta have that space ready for them so you're not "doing it live"so to say.
Click to expand...
I have a box fan on them on low. I don't have a pedestal and no pvc to attach clips to. I'm concerned about a speed controller. Can I get it lower than the lowest speed already? And if it's just an on/off thing, won't the humidity fluctuate every time it gets turned on?
 
#209
UsulLusu said:
What soil are you using here? Seems to be huge chunks of bark in the mix, ideally you want to sift the soil to get rid of any such stuff. The soil looks bone dry which in itelf isn't a great thing, but could also indicate temperatures that are too hot and or light that is too close.

PH isn't really something you need to concern yourself with in soil, especially if no nutrients are yet added. If you just grabbed some random soil, it could be too hot for seedlings. I know you addressed some of these in your post, however I am not sure when the damage to the seedlings was done. Look up the light hanging reccomendations by the light manufacturer. Is the actual wattage 1000w? If so and it is non-dimmable, that is far too much light for seedlings.
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I was using some organic stuff from Home Depot. It did* have tons of wood in it. That stuff was horrible. The top layer of the soil was dry because I had fungus gnats and put DE on top of the soil. It was just dry on tipp though. The seedling were f-d almost af soon as I planted them in that soil. Since I repotted them in Promix, they've taken off. They're already a month old but at least showing growth. They look a million times healthier too. I backed the light off too. I had it too close. I assumed that since it's LED, it could be much closer.
 
#210
Vagician said:
These plants look to be in a very healthy state now and they are in veg. The two main cycles of plant growth you should be concerned with (there are actually 4) are vegetative and flowering.
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4? I thought it was seedling, veg, and flower? If they're in veg, I'm supposed to start nutes every other watering, no? I thought they weren't in veg until the 5 blades were prominent?
 
#211
Mr. Krinkle said:
if your starting water is on the softer side, like under 200 ppm, and if you're using any type of reputable synthetic base nute, then it should be right around 6.0 ph just from that alone....some additives will leave it the same (synthetic) some will bring it up (silica) but most will bring it down (guano, molasses, fish) - all in all, the best thing i ever did, was throw out my ph pen (which usually isn't very accurate to begin with) and let the medium make it work correctly (which it does)
Click to expand...
You don't check ph?? I don't have a tds yet. I have that fox farms trio of nutes.
 
#213
Rootbound said:
Good advice. My city tap water is 650 ppm(1.3 ec). So I have no choice but to use RO water. And since the OP is not in soil, she is using Promix, which almost all promix comes inert with just peat, perlite, lime and maybe a myco added. I use promix and test my ph and ppm every watering, similar to hydro. I also add cal/mag to my water first to add back in the nutrients I stripped away with the RO machine. Looks like her plants have bounced back after switching from soil to promix.
Click to expand...
I thought promix was considered soil.
UsulLusu said:
There is no need to be checking PH for soil/organic grows. Are you using soil nutrients?
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I'm using promix, but I have nutes for soil. Attached a pic.
 

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#215
ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
You don't check ph?? I don't have a tds yet. I have that fox farms trio of nutes.
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Nah i dont waste my time with it anymore - you chase your tail with that whole thing trying to get it perfect - and it's worse to use ph up than it is to use ph down because itll just keep going up - and a high ph is worse than a low and blah blah....

let me ask you this, have you run them without adjusting ph at all? or are you just doing it because that's what most people are telling you to do?
 
#217
I'm also using the same range fox farms for my soil pots, from reading about them there mix of organic and chemical, I remember reading cautious tales about the tiger bloom with particular references to it being low ph very acidic, so far the big bloom and grow big have worked a treat but I'm wary of what I've been reading about the flowering one, be careful go canny at 1st
 
#219
Oh man, I can go into a bit about the humidity control but without really playing with the setup you'll have to experiment a bit for yourself.
But yes humidity would fluctuate if exhaust were an on/off thing, thats not necessarily bad if its just cycling pretty often all times. But like leaving it go up all night, then exhausting it back to dry can be an issue. but if you're exhausting it all to like 10% all the time its not really helpful at either. So at this point with small plants in there you might try just not exhausting and opening the tent once in a while, does it really get that high? I don't see those babies making it jump past 60%s very quick. And they really don't need that much air exchange, for like what 50 leaves total.
When they start getting more leaves to transpire you'll notice the humidity levels go up much more, and the low exhaust setting might just get it closer to your goal without overdrying. Then they'll get into flower and you'll want to bring that down more and you can turn er to high, and with all the plants in there it'll still stay up a little bit.(won't get bone dry so fast) Does that make sense?

I think my biggest hangup on some growspaces is actually all that excess power. Running dehumidifiers, humidifiers, ac and heat in the same space so they're always cycling back and forth with each other and all that conditioning is just getting blown out the window anyway. Lungrooms...
 
#220
ThatCrazyStonerChick said:
These are the current plants as of today.
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Great job recovering them, nicely done. They look a bit dark to me so I would lay off the Nitrogen a bit, but it could just be the lighting. I always use BioBizz which just involved me feeding the plants fish mix until flower, should be the same one nute until flower deal with most organic lines. Not sure what system foxfarm nutrients use, but just make sure you are not using flower nutes during veg, I knew someone who did this and wasted a whole bottle. Their leaves were always really dark and I could never understand why.
 
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