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Please help diagnose problem(Pics)

  • Thread starter Thread starter SodaLicious
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Please help diagnose problem(Pics)

SodaLicious 71 Replies 7,682 Views
Page 2 of 4 · Replies 21–40 of 72
#21
I was using passive intake before but the room would get too hot. Since switching to the powered intake, temps are perfect but rh is low now. I am thinking I should put it on a timer maybe, alternate between intake and humidifier. What are your thoughts? I just checked on them and they responded well to the foliar spray. Tonight all 4 600's will be switched on.
 
#23
are you using AC to cool? or are the fans your cooling power? If it were fans, I would say... air cool the lights next round in some nice blockbuster or magnum reflectors (or cool tubes)... then do a scrog instead of vert(or stay with vert but use cool tubes). You can get just as much with the same amount of plants. Seal up that room. get co2. get an ac and only use when needed, or even a chiller with some iceboxes and max fans as Ttystik woudl suggest. it will be easier to control your room environment this way.
 
#24
How much more electricity will a ac big enough to cool my room 4-600's and 1-1000 draw?
 
#25
O.k. so tonight I am going to spray them with some plain water ph'd 6.0, about 30 minutes before the lights come on. Then again right as the light go off. Anyone have experience spraying with the lights on to increase humidity?
 
#27
SodaLicious said:
O.k. so tonight I am going to spray them with some plain water ph'd 6.0, about 30 minutes before the lights come on. Then again right as the light go off. Anyone have experience spraying with the lights on to increase humidity?
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Yes it works very temporarily. VERY temporarily.

I believe the formula for lights and ac is 5ooo btu's for every 1k light to be on the safe side.

Here :

http://blog.bghydro.com/2011/06/09/ac-units-and-ventilation-for-indoor-gardens/
 
#30
DSCF1111
 
#31
SodaLicious said:
Things are looking better spraying as often as I can with the lights off, what are your thoughts seamaiden on spraying with the lights on?

View attachment 202913
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I can't view the attachment, don't have permission.

As for whether or not to spray/foliar lights on or not, it totally depends on the product you're using. Some are absolutely phototoxic, others aren't. I've had a couple of instances of non-phototoxic products causing burn when applied during lights on when used on plants in VERY bad condition (root aphids, OxiDate w/JMS Stylet oil), but have since used both products on healthy plants living outdoors with zero problems.

Foliar feeds have been, in my experience, perfectly fine as long as you take care not to get the bulb wet. If it's got a glass, that's better, but you still don't want cold or cool water droplets getting onto hot glass. Could cause some problems, and glass in the buds isn't fun at all, especially if you hand-roll.
 
#32
Seamaiden said:
I can't view the attachment, don't have permission.

As for whether or not to spray/foliar lights on or not, it totally depends on the product you're using. Some are absolutely phototoxic, others aren't. I've had a couple of instances of non-phototoxic products causing burn when applied during lights on when used on plants in VERY bad condition (root aphids, OxiDate w/JMS Stylet oil), but have since used both products on healthy plants living outdoors with zero problems.

Foliar feeds have been, in my experience, perfectly fine as long as you take care not to get the bulb wet. If it's got a glass, that's better, but you still don't want cold or cool water droplets getting onto hot glass. Could cause some problems, and glass in the buds isn't fun at all, especially if you hand-roll.
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Thanks for the info, I am just using r/o water with a very mild nutrient solution in it, or should I just be using the r/o water? My tap is at 400 give or take for ppm, high sulfur dioxide content, smells like eggs and tastes metallic. We just bath and do dishes with it. I am aware of the hot glass/cold water issue, I would just raise the lights above canopy and turn fans off while I spray, then a few minutes later lower and turn on.


I don't know what happened with the upload of that picture, so i just posted the picture by itself afterward.
 
#33
I like how clean you keep your space.
 
#34
Seamaiden said:
I like how clean you keep your space.
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Thanks, it has been a battle for the last 2 grows, I over vegged, neglected and just didn't seem to be in it. This round, I disinfected the whole room, replaced the floor, changed the bucket setup with individual drain lines, and 1/2 inch feeds at the top. I also raised the drains on the buckets, they are now 3 inches from the bottom, I had some problems with the 1 inch drains clogging with roots on my first grow. The plants always seem to grow a 3-4 inch puck of roots in the bottom of the bucket.
 
#35
If they were mine, I'd see how a plant or three responds to those roots being trimmed back, maybe regularly.
 
#36
Seamaiden said:
Unfortunately, yes, it might hurt. Or make problems worse. Just be sure to note the reaction.

I agree with Capulator, that RH is too low. A cool mist humidifier shouldn't cost you more than $20-$30.
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Agreed.... Also be careful with your nutes as I might guess u have some lock out going on, and if your to high in one area your trying to help with solutions that are mixed could continue the lock out.
IE: to much of one thing will lead to a deficiency or inability to absorb that which you are lacking. There should be some threads about this somewhere on here as I have not had to look at this in a while, I'm not sure where but do a search. I am no expert on lock out as I follow a strict regimen and diet handed down to me. GL
Oh and PS: don't go from T5 to full bore lighting either you will shock them if your burning to hot all of a sudden, give the girls a chance to recover first.
 
#37
Pancho-N-Lefty said:
Agreed.... Also be careful with your nutes as I might guess u have some lock out going on, and if your to high in one area your trying to help with solutions that are mixed could continue the lock out.
IE: to much of one thing will lead to a deficiency or inability to absorb that which you are lacking. There should be some threads about this somewhere on here as I have not had to look at this in a while, I'm not sure where but do a search. I am no expert on lock out as I follow a strict regimen and diet handed down to me. GL
Oh and PS: don't go from T5 to full bore lighting either you will shock them if your burning to hot all of a sudden, give the girls a chance to recover first.
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I was thinking about switching to this lucas formula I've heard about. Tomorrow will be the start of week 2 flower. Do you think it is wise to use lucas at 8ml micro and 16ml bloom per gal? And should I keep using diamond nectar?
 
#38
SodaLicious said:
I was thinking about switching to this lucas formula I've heard about. Tomorrow will be the start of week 2 flower. Do you think it is wise to use lucas at 8ml micro and 16ml bloom per gal? And should I keep using diamond nectar?
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PM sent...Lucas formula is on the right track, but you can still do a better job at a better cost on your own . However thats a good place to get started. Use some searching and get basic info off labels and do cross referencing to figure out what is in the products so you can then get bulk dry nutes and mix yourself. I don't know my ratios off the top of my head Id have to look at my logs as I keep that all documented for reference and consistency. I can't comment on the products you listed off the top of my head not knowing what their ingredients are VS what I mix. I wouldn't switch gears on your girls , Id do some research and put a plan and recipes together for your next round. maybe play around with the new stuff a bit on some clones before you dive in full bore. That way you can tweak it as needed, and keep a diary if you can to help you stay on track.
 
#40
Seamaiden, I was wondering what your thoughts on Lucas are?
Do you prune your roots?
 
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