Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

[UCHQ]

The reason I asked about this wasn't to poke holes in the design choices, but rather to gain some insight into what central design philosophy the CC team was following when they made their choices.

The difference between a 1" opening and 2" or larger IS significant- I can attest that I see a water level drop between the first bucket in a row and the last when using 1" bulkheads, which is why I don't recommend using 1" openings for more than 6 or 8 buckets in a line.

You're definitely right about larger size bulkheads being expensive! I chose 1" mainly because it was the largest affordable size. As you know, anyone can design 'the best' when cost is no object- good engineering happens when taking as much of those 'best' features as possible and designing a well rounded system everyone can afford.

I'm also quite aware of how expensive plastic injection molding machinery is, in a way that perhaps the average gardener may not be. There is no way CC could afford to mold their own plastic buckets, let alone in multiple sizes, and still offer an affordable product. Besides, what would be the point in re-inventing that particular wheel when companies that specialize in this work do it so well- at least most of the time?

I do notice, at least with 5 gallon round plastic pails, that they're available in somewhat different styles. Some are definitely thicker than others, which leads to some advantages:

1. thickness helps reduce the likelihood of cracking (although I bet the plasticizer mix recipe in the plastic itself makes a big difference too)

2. better light control

3. possibly less acknowleged is that the thicker plastic helps insulate the bucket better which helps the end customer keep the temperatures in their system more consistent, and reduces condensation issues in humid environments.

Since one of my personal design criteria was low cost, I ended up painting my buckets- which turned out to be an effective means of insulation and condensation reduction in its own right! I would not recommend this approach for commercial systems, however, since the paint doesn't adhere well enough to the plastic to meet durability and longevity standards.

If you can find a way to offer your buckets in an 'extra thick' variety- even at additional cost, I'd be very interested in taking a closer look at them for myself and my clients.

We've got some truly innovative products we'll be releasing throughout this coming year. Products like custom molded bulk heads, custom injection molded mods, etc. are in development as we speak. Not to mention the UC Earth and our Cultured Solutions nutrient line.

We take what we do very seriously here at CC and can assure you we are committed to making the best growing products available on the market for decades to come.

 

[ttystikk]

We've got some truly innovative products we'll be releasing throughout this coming year. Products like custom molded bulk heads, custom injection molded mods, etc. are in development as we speak. Not to mention the UC Earth and our Cultured Solutions nutrient line.

We take what we do very seriously here at CC and can assure you we are committed to making the best growing products available on the market for decades to come.

I look forward to it- I'm impressed with the level of consumer responsiveness shown by CC. No product survives a rollout to market without some bumps in the road, so how the company chooses to deal with them becomes the critical point. CC has passed that test with flying colors and I look forward to seeing what you have in store!

If you'd like to have someone knowlegable about these types of systems and the engineering behind them do some end user testing, I'd be happy to volunteer my services!

 

[smokey_waters]

So I've got these two black filters at the ends of my water pump tube that came with the UC system and I'd like to know how to use them. Could I get some instructions??

Thx,

 

[Phaivor]

the black filters works on there own, there is a tern off valve on each filter that valve needs to be turned on so the water can flow thou the pvc into the black filter that catches a lot of the falling off roots & extra junkthen the water flows thou the tubing then into the water pump all you need to do to clean them is to turn them off with the off valve them unscrew them from the top of the filter
& clean put together turn valves back on thats all that is to that :mmm

 

[fnord88]

Extra valve at bottome of buckets

Hi guys, first time poster long time reader and ebb and flower. First thanks for all the info in the UC forum, its is awesome.

I am shifting to UC, which i have no experience with, however after reading nearly every post here ( it takes a while ), believe I can avoid all the common mistakes. I am very lucky in that a trusted friend organised for me to purchase a home made system from somebody he knew. His friend is a perfectionist, so the system is as follows:

6 * 20 gallon eskies ( cold box ). Joined by 80mm PVC. PVC runs through 8" ducting, which is then filled with expanadable foam for insulation.

6 * 600w chrome dome lights in cool tubes ducted outside.
1 * 600w HPS
( the eskies are aranged in a circle, 1 chrome dome above every plant, HPS in the middle. Note all the ducting for lights and 2 exhaust fans are all insulated for noise and heat as well)

The problem: My friend is OS, and setting up the system i have encountered a few puzzles.
1) As well as the 80mm PVC, each eskie has a small 20mm hole in bottom with valve attached on out side ( see pic ). Have come up with several ways they could work; suck water from each hole to increase negative pressure? Or push cold water from chiller to each bucket individually?

2) The control bucket has a 900l/hr pump permanently inside it. The hose attached matches the hose size (20mm), of the valves in bottom of eskie. I have assumed it is for the cooler? Included also is a 1000-2000 l/hr inline pump and a 2000 gallon/hr pump, which has to be submerged, can the return line pump sit inyour control eskie?. Not sure why I need all 3?

Sorry do not seem to be able to upload photos as of yet, will keep trying

 

[sm0ke_dawg]

Very Awesome thread indeed. I am reading up on RDWC/UC as much as i can. I have been growing for about a year now and im tired of checking 4-6 5gallon buckets and adjusting PH. Tired of checking 18 gallon totes with two monsters in them and its not an easy res change week 6 or 7 of flower. This UC system design reminds me of the PPK from ICMUG i have heard about on another forum. Read the first few pages but just need to make my mark and sub in for this awesome thread!

 

[smokey_waters]

so I have some knowledge to share. Don't unscrew the black filters on the UC system while it's running w/o shutting that blue valve off. My chiller stopped, freaked me the frick out and water came a-gushin out, but no perm. damage.

 

[lava]

why does the water level need to be 1-2" below the bottom of the netpot? more oxygen in the hydroton, less root problems?

 

[Phaivor]

why does the water level need to be 1-2" below the bottom of the netpot? more oxygen in the hydroton, less root problems?

"I only drop the water level one inch below the net pot in bloom. The reason why I can't go any lower is cuz I'm using 8 gal buckets. The main reason to lower the water level is to trick the plants into thinking the water supply is decreasing and they will finish properly producing essential oils, lower water level half way through bloom. Around wk 6." By Shady...:bong2:

 

[woodsmaneh]

Yup you only do that once, ROTFLOL. The filter helps protect your pump, as most of us use Hydroton, that stuff gets in everything and when it hits your pump it can be game over. Always check your return flow to the epicenter to make sure the filter is not plugged. When working on the filter turn the pump off than the chiller than turn the valve off. Your set to go, to remove the top of the filter, there my be a little water but not much.

 

[Phaivor]

I have a 120 site easy cloner that i veg in before I transplant to the UC, I was wondering if i should be using DM ZONE in the easy cloner after the clippings has produced roots???

 

[UCHQ]

Before or after u strike roots should be fine.....with some products such as Rhizotonic it's recommended you wait for roots to emerge, but with zone anytime during the rooting process is fine.

 

[Phaivor]

Before or after u strike roots should be fine.....with some products such as Rhizotonic it's recommended you wait for roots to emerge, but with zone anytime during the rooting process is fine.

thanks
:sun

 

[hogan400]

I just did a nute/water change out.
starting week 3
I matched nute strength and ph.
Now my ph is falling...

Is this normal when you do a water/nute change? They still seem to be eating food, my ppm is dropping. My last flush and refill when I switched to 12/12, I noticed the same thing. Still eating with a ph drop but I wasnt expecting it here when shit is in full growth? wtf

 

[UCHQ]

Sometimes water chemistry can take time to stabilize, what is the rate of pH decline and was your residual solution in the system more acid than what you added as new?

 

[hogan400]

uchq, thanks for the answer to the dehuey question email. I just emailed you about this so disregard it if you'd prefer to answer here?.. lol

The ph was 5.8/5.9 when drained and the same when added back in. I circulated it in my overflow-flush rez for about 24hrs before I actually swapped. It dropped to 5.5 by yesterday morn and then to 5.1 by this morn so "almost" 1. overall?! Also I have added-back a little ph up slowly to keep it around 5.1-5.2.

Im concerned for sure but after inspection last night the roots seem fine..

 

[UCHQ]

pH should begin to stabilize but you should consider dropping your nute strength by 10% or so given the pH dropping observation. Simply adding water will raise pH and drop concentration...this will typically help stabilize water chem.


Remember to use water to raise the pH in your instance and you should be fine.
- Show quoted text -

 

[hogan400]

Just now I filled my top off rez with r.o water that sits at 6.5 normally, also drained out 10 gallons of uc solution. The ppm is dropping as is the ph" to answer ur email". but only since this flush. I appreciate the quick responses very much! thank you. Is this normal?

Also when using dutch master w r.o water what do you recommend for cal mag or do you? The reason for my 3x de-I is because my reef tank is on the r.o as well. Figured I would simply add a larger membrane instead of a whole r.o unit.

 

[ZombieSlave]

Installing the Epicsenter Drain valve

The drain seal at the bottom at the epic center 13 gal, the manual says to install the drain valve, but it doesint seem like the valves threads clear the uniseal. how am i supposed to be installing this?

-Thanks

 

[ZombieSlave]

haah never mind I solved my problem.