UCHQ
THCFarmer Sponsor
- Posts
- 173
- Reactions
- 17
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2011
- Points
- 18
The reason I asked about this wasn't to poke holes in the design choices, but rather to gain some insight into what central design philosophy the CC team was following when they made their choices.
The difference between a 1" opening and 2" or larger IS significant- I can attest that I see a water level drop between the first bucket in a row and the last when using 1" bulkheads, which is why I don't recommend using 1" openings for more than 6 or 8 buckets in a line.
You're definitely right about larger size bulkheads being expensive! I chose 1" mainly because it was the largest affordable size. As you know, anyone can design 'the best' when cost is no object- good engineering happens when taking as much of those 'best' features as possible and designing a well rounded system everyone can afford.
I'm also quite aware of how expensive plastic injection molding machinery is, in a way that perhaps the average gardener may not be. There is no way CC could afford to mold their own plastic buckets, let alone in multiple sizes, and still offer an affordable product. Besides, what would be the point in re-inventing that particular wheel when companies that specialize in this work do it so well- at least most of the time?
I do notice, at least with 5 gallon round plastic pails, that they're available in somewhat different styles. Some are definitely thicker than others, which leads to some advantages:
1. thickness helps reduce the likelihood of cracking (although I bet the plasticizer mix recipe in the plastic itself makes a big difference too)
2. better light control
3. possibly less acknowleged is that the thicker plastic helps insulate the bucket better which helps the end customer keep the temperatures in their system more consistent, and reduces condensation issues in humid environments.
Since one of my personal design criteria was low cost, I ended up painting my buckets- which turned out to be an effective means of insulation and condensation reduction in its own right! I would not recommend this approach for commercial systems, however, since the paint doesn't adhere well enough to the plastic to meet durability and longevity standards.
If you can find a way to offer your buckets in an 'extra thick' variety- even at additional cost, I'd be very interested in taking a closer look at them for myself and my clients.
We've got some truly innovative products we'll be releasing throughout this coming year. Products like custom molded bulk heads, custom injection molded mods, etc. are in development as we speak. Not to mention the UC Earth and our Cultured Solutions nutrient line.
We take what we do very seriously here at CC and can assure you we are committed to making the best growing products available on the market for decades to come.
"I only drop the water level one inch below the net pot in bloom. The reason why I can't go any lower is cuz I'm using 8 gal buckets. The main reason to lower the water level is to trick the plants into thinking the water supply is decreasing and they will finish properly producing essential oils, lower water level half way through bloom. Around wk 6." By Shady...:bong2:why does the water level need to be 1-2" below the bottom of the netpot? more oxygen in the hydroton, less root problems?
Before or after u strike roots should be fine.....with some products such as Rhizotonic it's recommended you wait for roots to emerge, but with zone anytime during the rooting process is fine.
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