Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

hogan400 · Jan 10, 2012

What other conditions exist in driving your ph down, other than the obvious root rot? My roots look healthy. As soon as I up my ppms, my ph falls. Plants are 3 weeks in, and my ppms are 350. They are huge and look healthy, and this all started with a fucking newt swap. They were at 620.

smokey_waters · Jan 10, 2012

Leaky uniseals

See below

smokey_waters · Jan 10, 2012

Leaky uniseals

So 2 days ago I wrapped bubble wrap around the buckets to insulate. Now I'm getting puddles. Is this condensation underneath falling out or if it's a leaky uniseal (haven't figures out which one), what techniques do u use to stop the leak??

Thx,

UCHQ · Jan 10, 2012

Call CC.

Shane20 · Jan 11, 2012

Sounds like if you dont have the insulation that sticks to your buckets it is sweating in between and leaving puddles around them at the bottom. If it is a leak go to hone depot and get jb weld water weld. Works great on wet or dry.

smokey_waters · Jan 11, 2012

air pump stand

Where did you guys get that clear, z-shaped air pump stand that was at the long beach convention. I have been trying to find a decent stand for my air pumps that's solid and higher than the modules, so far just using tupperware w/ a shitload of shock-absorbant mats.

Thx,

crossouttheiis · Jan 11, 2012

smokey_waters said:
Where did you guys get that clear, z-shaped air pump stand that was at the long beach convention. I have been trying to find a decent stand for my air pumps that's solid and higher than the modules, so far just using tupperware w/ a shitload of shock-absorbant mats.

Thx,

get a cynder block :) I wish there was these sorts of conventions up my way

woodsmaneh · Jan 11, 2012

smokey_waters said:
Where did you guys get that clear, z-shaped air pump stand that was at the long beach convention. I have been trying to find a decent stand for my air pumps that's solid and higher than the modules, so far just using tupperware w/ a shitload of shock-absorbant mats.

Thx,

Milk crates

HydroRocks · Jan 12, 2012

Anyone ever run Sugaree by CES in the UC system? We have started testing this product and was curious if anyone has any experience with it in the UC.

Cheers!

UCHQ · Jan 12, 2012

smokey_waters said:
Where did you guys get that clear, z-shaped air pump stand that was at the long beach convention. I have been trying to find a decent stand for my air pumps that's solid and higher than the modules, so far just using tupperware w/ a shitload of shock-absorbant mats.

Thx,

Our plastics manufacturer made those for us...pretty but pricey though. I'd go with milk crates as suggested.

UCHQ · Jan 12, 2012

HydroRocks said:
Anyone ever run Sugaree by CES in the UC system? We have started testing this product and was curious if anyone has any experience with it in the UC.

Cheers!

Gotten good feed back on CES synthetic nutes though I'd be weary of using any organic based nute as a primary in water culture as this has proven problematic for the vast majority who've tried to date.

HydroRocks · Jan 12, 2012

Thanks for the response. Are you talking about the base nutrients by CES being organic or the additive Sugaree itself? We are just using the additive Sugaree from there line and nothing else.

We tested the full line of nutrients by CES a few years ago and they did not fare very well in the UC system. Sugaree was not available at that time so we never tested it before until now.the Uncle John's Blend additive worked ok in the UC and did not cause any issues so I thought maybe Sugaree would be a good candidate to try.

Cheers!

Bubba kush · Jan 13, 2012

HYDRO MASTER said:
hey guys i have some customers that have a UC system and its a 8gal 8 site system

there having leaking issues whats the best leak stoppin shit they can put on there to seal this thing. i feel sorry for them they have been going thru this for 2 weeks and i am tryin to help as much as i can for them

let me kno thatnks

JB water weld

UCHQ · Jan 13, 2012

HYDRO MASTER said:
hey guys i have some customers that have a UC system and its a 8gal 8 site system

there having leaking issues whats the best leak stoppin shit they can put on there to seal this thing. i feel sorry for them they have been going thru this for 2 weeks and i am tryin to help as much as i can for them

let me kno thatnks

Contact CC directly to get it taken care of.

hogan400 · Jan 13, 2012

UCHQ,

Some follow up on our phone conv. I did a few mix tests on individual gallons.

Test 1. Added cal mag, then A, then B. ph was 5.8.
Test 2. Added A, then B, then cal mag. Ph 5.2,
Cal mag drives my ph down after a+b, Is this normal? (dutch master gold flower)

Tap water ppm 134, ph 6.8.
R.O water ppm 9, ph 6.2. seems kinda low?

Other thing I forget to mention, after my leaf plucking trim up session, before I did my nute swap, my system temp was 65.4*
What I add back is 77* because my rez is not chilled. is this a problem? After my swap it cools to 65 within about 3 hrs.

Another side note: my veg system was at 5.5, i topped it this morn with 5.9 fresh solution and the ph dropped to 5.2.... how weird is that? what do you think?

I spoke w Daniel btw.

UCHQ · Jan 13, 2012

Test 1. Added cal mag, then A, then B. ph was 5.8.
Test 2. Added A, then B, then cal mag. Ph 5.2,
Cal mag drives my ph down after a+b, Is this normal? (dutch master gold flower)

That's a prime example of the delicacies of water chemistry...that's a really good observation. Looks like you found a pattern and a good way to avoid future issues. Reacting to well made observations is the foundation to any good plant health strategy.

Tap water ppm 134, ph 6.8.
R.O water ppm 9, ph 6.2. seems kinda low?

RO typically reduces the pH of water when it removes the alkaline minerals.

Other thing I forget to mention, after my leaf plucking trim up session, before I did my nute swap, my system temp was 65.4*
What I add back is 77* because my rez is not chilled. is this a problem? After my swap it cools to 65 within about 3 hrs.

Shouldn't an issue....but the pH of solution will read differently at different temps. This is the reason for Auto Temp Compensation features in meters.

Another side note: my veg system was at 5.5, i topped it this morn with 5.9 fresh solution and the ph dropped to 5.2.... how weird is that? what do you think?

Don't sweat it unless it begins drifting downward...otherwise just chalk it up to the complexities of water chem.

smokey_waters · Jan 14, 2012

Rather than lug another cinder block up to the apt, I decided to just fill the Tupperware Im using w/ water on a hunch. It actually reduced the vibrations!

Ps. Fuck PM

johnnyrex · Jan 15, 2012

need help

Hello fellow farmers well this is my first UC grow i purchase a 4 xxl 13 my question is i have taken my 4 clones out of my ez cloner they all have very good root structure about 10-12" long following Desert squirrel proper way to root and veg in uc. ok now that i have transfer them i dont have a drip system so i hand feed but the roots are about 1" from the bottom of the basket my ppm are at 500 water temp between 66-70 and Ph 5.3-5.5 why are they droopy i have my light on for veg 16/8 in the morning at lights on they look up and great but during the day they look sad and droopy. its been today day 4 do you guys think its shock cause there are still no signs of roots nowhere,
thanks everyone for the help.
PS the water level is above the basket i say about 1.5" above the baskets.

hogan400 · Jan 15, 2012

uchq.
I rinsed thru the old solution like we discussed, added fresh nutes at 350PPM/5.8 and overnight 4.7 and by this afternoon 4.5.
Still eating some ppm but falling like a rock. Even used a new container of cal mag. Roots still look fine but plants are just locking out like crazy. No strange bacteria on my uniseals or residue in the bottom of my containers... no slime but a small amount of brown kinda heavy film at the top edge of my epicenter where the water level sits?
I wiped it away.

Any info on R.O de-I that maybe you can dig up? Something maybe Im just missing? Has dutch master had any recent bad nutes? Im only using gold flower a/b and zone..
My water had a touch of discolor to it, maybe a little green but so is the dmaster.

HydroRocks · Jan 15, 2012

The "brown slime like substance" you described does not sound good at all. You probably need to try and find the source of this brown stuff, that should not be there at all.

It could be bacteria in your source water that is causing the PH drop. Try going with straight water and NO nutrients after you flush really good and see if it drops again. At least then you can rule that the nutrients or the zone is bad or causing the problem.

If you still get the PH drop with just water then you most likely have an issue with bacteria which is not that un common.

You can try using H202 29% at 5ml per gallon which should kill anything alive, but then your zone should be killing everything anyhow.

I stopped using DM products due to getting bad bottles of zone and also inconsistent nutrient formula's. DM's tech support attitude was basically to just ignore the problems. They did not seem worried at all about the rock formations in the zone going through and killing one of 500 dollar pumps (this was before I was running inline filters).

Lots of folks use DM products with no issues and I did myself for almost a year before I started having issues with there nutrients. It all started one day when I reordered zone and some kind of weird blue stuff showed up that within a few days crystals started forming in the bottom that would not dissolve. Shit when downhill from there.

I am sure you will get it solved soon.

Make sure you are not leaving any build ups hiding some where in the pipes.

Also when you use RO water you will filter out all the buffers that make the water PH stable and this can cause the problem your are describing.

I also do not think that De-I water treatment is recommended if I remember correctly. Daniel explained why a while back and I can not remember the exact details as to why.

What is your regular tap water like? You can also try mixing half RO and half TAP to try and put back some PH stability in the water.

Another issue is a faulty TDS meter giving low numbers and your mix is still to strong which will cause the PH drop you describe.

Cheers!

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