Post your Organic Soil Mix

[Seamaiden]

I would be adding the oyster shell instead of dolomite. I don't use lime in my mixes, just my preference.

Why do you feel it's important to add alfalfa in your soil mix? I always like to hear others' opinions. I consider it tolerable, but not preferable to put directly into the mix.

Not so much "important" as it is easy and easily available. It offers a good bit of N, breaks down easily and that leads to triacontanol I do believe.

What do you need from Dr.Earth that you can't do yourself? I find once I built a good soil, there isn't really much I can do. Plants are pretty much on auto pilot. If anything I make an SST once a week. Maybe once every couple weeks an act or a kelp tea. Aloe foliar spray/ipm not nearly as often as I should. Life is good. ;)

With respect,
P-

I can source each individual ingredient myself, but if I'm after quick and easy, Dr Earth has already done it for me, pretty much exactly as I would have done it. We don't have to DIY every little thing with regards to our soil. That's what Dr Earth can do for me that I cannot do for myself.

We do have to continually add back what's removed (in terms of minerals/nutrients), because we're removing quite a bit when we pull an entire plant, and almost all of what we've removed isn't going back into the soil. I mean, I don't know about most folks here, but for me I only compost the large fan leaves and the stalks. I'm smokin' the rest.

 

[Patanjali]

Not so much "important" as it is easy and easily available. It offers a good bit of N, breaks down easily and that leads to triacontanol I do believe.

I can source each individual ingredient myself, but if I'm after quick and easy, Dr Earth has already done it for me, pretty much exactly as I would have done it. We don't have to DIY every little thing with regards to our soil. That's what Dr Earth can do for me that I cannot do for myself.

We do have to continually add back what's removed (in terms of minerals/nutrients), because we're removing quite a bit when we pull an entire plant, and almost all of what we've removed isn't going back into the soil. I mean, I don't know about most folks here, but for me I only compost the large fan leaves and the stalks. I'm smokin' the rest.

I never understand how people don't have enough N in their mixes? As far as triacontanol, I use an alfalfa SST or a kelp/alfalfa tea the first couple weeks of flower to reduce internodal spacing. That's pretty much it.

I guess I'm not familiar with Dr. Earth other then seeing the name in the hydroshop. What products do you use of theirs? And how/what exactly would you have done? I guess I only have like four or five ingredients that I use for most applications; neem, crab, oyster shell, kelp, alfalfa, rock dust. I try to keep it simple and cheap.

Edit: forgot, as far as adding back into the soil, what about top dressing?

Respect,
P-

 

[Seamaiden]

Some folks prefer to use things like guanos to provide that shot of N, others want vegan. I want cheap. Alfalfa is cheap. Why go to the trouble of making a tea when I can just drop the alfalfa into the soil mix and let things happen in situ? That's my way of thinking.

Top dressing is one method of putting necessary nutrients back into the soil, I use it but don't just leave them sitting there as I've found they tend to crust up as much as anything else. It doesn't really matter how those removed nutrients are replaced, just that they are.

I use their veggie, citrus and acid-loving mixes around the property, sometimes I'll use it for my cannabis as well. It's pretty reasonably priced, especially in bulk. Some folks prefer to have things that eliminate a step or three for them, instead of adding steps. That's where products like Dr. Earth are very good, IMO.

 

[drewski85]

just use it
plants love it

I know that's right but so do a lot of crawly critters. I don't want to sabotage the 1st indoor run I've done in years

 

[TheSmoker]

@Seamaiden you recommend adding Alfalfa to the mix @Patanjali put down.. im going to get all my supplies this weekend and want to make sure I make a good base soil. First time I will be trying to run organic soil so im nervous about the idea that I cant really control the mix once its ready.

 

[Patanjali]

Some folks prefer to use things like guanos to provide that shot of N, others want vegan. I want cheap. Alfalfa is cheap. Why go to the trouble of making a tea when I can just drop the alfalfa into the soil mix and let things happen in situ? That's my way of thinking.

Top dressing is one method of putting necessary nutrients back into the soil, I use it but don't just leave them sitting there as I've found they tend to crust up as much as anything else. It doesn't really matter how those removed nutrients are replaced, just that they are.

I use their veggie, citrus and acid-loving mixes around the property, sometimes I'll use it for my cannabis as well. It's pretty reasonably priced, especially in bulk. Some folks prefer to have things that eliminate a step or three for them, instead of adding steps. That's where products like Dr. Earth are very good, IMO.

I find between the neem meal, crab meal, castings, dynamic accumulators, etc there is no need for a 'shot of N'. I guess I don't find throwing a handful of alfalfa in a bucket with a couple of airstones and letting it bubble for a day troublesome.

As far as top dressing I always put it under a layer of mulch. I'm assuming you grow with some kind of mulch or top dressing on your soil? Or do you not keep the top of your soil moist?

If you want cheap and sustainable I would suggest more DIY and less Dr.Earth. If you want costly and easy I'd go with the Dr.Earth.

Just my 2¢,
P-

 

[Seamaiden]

:) Everyone's experience and preference is different, please remember that.

If I want to use dynamic accumulators, first they must be growing (this year they're not due to our severe drought, at least not what I usually use). Second, they must be physically accessible. I live on a HELL of a slope, and have taken a couple of scary falls, including one just this Monday that's got my knee seriously messed up. Do I risk another fall trying to make it up and down the hill to collect several buckets full of the locally growing plants I like to use (that aren't growing right now)? Or do I do what's safest for *me* and hit the local garden center, where a 12lb bag of Dr Earth is less than $30, and be able to walk on level, safe ground?

My choice? I'm going for safe because this knee shit fucking HURTS like hell.

This, of course, doesn't even begin to address the total time that can end up being spent sourcing and concocting, which is great if you're someone who's looking for more, and not less, to do.

I am using cover crops for the most part. Chop & drop 'em. I'll top dress over that if I think it's needed, but my own preference is to get what I think is going to be needed during the season into the soil from the start.

@Seamaiden you recommend adding Alfalfa to the mix @Patanjali put down.. im going to get all my supplies this weekend and want to make sure I make a good base soil. First time I will be trying to run organic soil so im nervous about the idea that I cant really control the mix once its ready.

There's still plenty that can be done once you have things planted, a la teas and the like.

I simply like the ease of using alfalfa, and what I've done is every time I'm in need and we're at the local feed shop, I hit up one of the young men and ask for the sweepings, which they give me for free. I don't even have to bring a bag.

 

[Patanjali]

:) Everyone's experience and preference is different, please remember that.

If I want to use dynamic accumulators, first they must be growing (this year they're not due to our severe drought, at least not what I usually use). Second, they must be physically accessible. I live on a HELL of a slope, and have taken a couple of scary falls, including one just this Monday that's got my knee seriously messed up. Do I risk another fall trying to make it up and down the hill to collect several buckets full of the locally growing plants I like to use (that aren't growing right now)? Or do I do what's safest for *me* and hit the local garden center, where a 12lb bag of Dr Earth is less than $30, and be able to walk on level, safe ground?

My choice? I'm going for safe because this knee shit fucking HURTS like hell.

This, of course, doesn't even begin to address the total time that can end up being spent sourcing and concocting, which is great if you're someone who's looking for more, and not less, to do.

I am using cover crops for the most part. Chop & drop 'em. I'll top dress over that if I think it's needed, but my own preference is to get what I think is going to be needed during the season into the soil from the start.

There's still plenty that can be done once you have things planted, a la teas and the like.

I simply like the ease of using alfalfa, and what I've done is every time I'm in need and we're at the local feed shop, I hit up one of the young men and ask for the sweepings, which they give me for free. I don't even have to bring a bag.

If you want to waste your money on crappy products go ahead. I don't want to hear about knees, I have a torn meniscus and a hairline fracture in my fibula that I have been dealing with for 6 months. I can go to natural grocers and for less then $2 I can buy a small bag of dried comfrey - no strain on the knee at all. Kelp, neem, crab, all just as easy to source as your Dr.Earth. Speaking of which Acid lovers mix:

Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Bone Meal, Valley Grown Alfalfa Meal, High Country Feather Meal, Cold Water Kelp Meal, Mined Potassium Sulfate, MicroActive™ Micronutrient-rich Seaweed Extract (synergistically boosted with micronized humic acids for maximum bioavailability.)

Fish Bone meal, already in the mix, Alfalfa meal, already going in the mix, feather meal - no thanks, kelp, in the mix, potassium sulfate - potash, ok w/e, seaweed extract - worthless, but it's boosted with micronized humic acids! Aka, they put in cheap leonardite humics. Oh but it's myko certified to have mycorrhizae in it! LOL!

I understand if you live in an apartment and maybe you don't have space to mix up a little tote of soil (it's a stretch, but hey it could happen). Otherwise, I say do your research and buy the good ingredients, not the cheap crap some company is putting in their products to make their CEO rich. Does Dr.Earth have a USDA organic certification, or are we just taking their word for it?

P-

 

[Seamaiden]

Is there a good reason for you to become so shitty in your responses on this subject?

 

[drtysowfgrns]

New to growing and this site.
? building super soil
1 bag roots 707
1 bag sunshine #4 organic
2 cups down to earth
-blood meal
-bone meal
-kelp meal
1.5 cups promote
-1 cup sleeves soil sweetener


Does this look ok.any thought or criticism will b appreciated.
Also wanted to add need meal but thought it would b too much calmg

 

[Dunge]

New to growing and this site.
? building super soil
1 bag roots 707
1 bag sunshine #4 organic
2 cups down to earth
-blood meal
-bone meal
-kelp meal
1.5 cups promote
-1 cup sleeves soil sweetener


Does this look ok.any thought or criticism will b appreciated.
Also wanted to add need meal but thought it would b too much calmg

Earth worm castings are a good addition.
Not sure about the soil sweetener. Some form of carbonate (lime)? May not be needed.
Have a look at the "Six super soils" thread in my signature.

 

[drtysowfgrns]

Promot

Earth worm castings are a good addition.
Not sure about the soil sweetener. Some form of carbonate (lime)? May not be needed.
Have a look at the "Six super soils" thread in my signature.

 

[drtysowfgrns]

Big worm ok by aurora.otherwise does this look ok.soil sweetener for ph buffer.recipe from another site just different manufacturer w different npk values.what about addition of need meal at what rate.plan to do 2 plants w this mix side by side w just 707 & roots liquid nutes.soil mix will just water w a tea here n there .thanks for any insight

 

[drtysowfgrns]

Big worm at what rate

 

[INbreed312]

This years soil experiment I posted previously seems to be rather on point. I haven't fed anything since august 21st. Just water and whatever the compost and ammendments are providing.

 

[Dopegeist]

My first batch was without areation (compost + peat = something akin to a tightly packed rapid rooter).
So started adding ~8 ft3 of high quality pine shavings (bedding material).
Upped my blood meal, and so far, no deficiencies from N. Everything looks great (minus a few bug problems in correction), the larger size of the shavings seems to really be helping to loosen and lighten my mix. I'll update the recipie when I get it all sorted out in the next few months. But so far, no composting of shaving causing N def, have a feeling they only use up so much nitrogen.

For beneficial bacteria, I only use one for my tea. http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-lb.html
Try the rest, then buy the best. Plus, these aren't just people getting rich off the 'movement', they are tree hugging hippies. Worked wonders on friends DWC after all other BBs failed.

Waaaaayyyyy, too much pine shavings, this time. Didn't add Age Old liquid (just a little to fill in any gaps)...And the composting of the pine shaving became apparent pretty soon...Was airy and light mix, though.
I underestimated the nitrogen eating power.

This time I only added about 4gal worth of pine shavings and some crab meal...Both seemed to help the texture, bone meal and blood meal got upped too.
I'll post the mix when the results get back in a bit. So far seems to be in the right direction.

 

[Dopegeist]

I am on this thread to get information more than give. If someone sees a slight in this recipe I am more than open to it. Especially if it saves on time and $$$. Please do not think I am offended. I just was answering the 'why' questions you posed as best I could.

Bang for your buck.
http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/product/mycogrow-soluble-1-lb.html

If anyone sees quality microbes for less than $80/pound, I'm all ears.

I know, I'll use even less when I get the worm farm running, but used right (making tea) that pound bottle should last a long, long time...

My buddy tried all the others, then finally listened to me to try it...Now, it's all he uses.

Plus, Paul Stamets does a lot of great work for Mother Earth.

 

[Dopegeist]

Forgot to ask....is there a cook time to this recipe or does that only apply when using things with blood or guano?

I believe the 'cook' time is either for urea based fertilizers (guano, chicken, urine soaked horse bedding, ect.), or for the microbes to colonize so that when transplanted the network is already started...
It ('cook') seems to get used interchangeably, but as long as you don't have a lot of water soluble N in the mix, you should be okay with an immediate transplant.
It will just take time for the bacterial and fungal colonies to establish themselves and make more available the water in-soluble elements.

So instead they could specify, mix needs to 'burn off N', or mix needs to 'colonize'.
All the more reason to cut out the old rootball, and replant...The earth doesn't re-mix itself between seasons...That would disrupt all the fungal hyphae.

 

[drewski85]

what is a good powdered microbe product (with microhorrizae fungi)? I've always relied on my vermicompost to supply the microbial activity&beneficial bacteria.heard great white is pretty good

 

[dilligaf]

love the sharing here
my mellow seedling mix I like

one part used soil
one part worm casting
one part compost
two parts perlite
green sand @1tbsp per gallon

nice and simple...i use soluable myco when sprouts are a week old

d