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Potency Theories!

  • Thread starter Thread starter caveman4.20
  • Start date Start date Nov 13, 2012
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Potency Theories!

caveman4.20 Nov 13, 2012 152 Replies 16,165 Views
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caveman4.20

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#101
What about potent plants with minimal oils or smell? Any thoughtz on that anyone im just thought pro oking.
 
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squiggly

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#102
midwestdensies said:
NO way buddy seen it many of times harvest after harvest dark period is the way. Test after test with blind taste tests with multiple homies for several years. Now its standard procedure. I cut off lights and start trimming a day later that way I can get it done in a couple days.
MW
Click to expand...

I can't for the life of me figure out how what you said here applies to the snippet you quoted from me...
 
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midwestdensies

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#103
squiggly said:
. Some people take this a step further and go for a 2-3day dark period before harvest. They claim it boosts trich production (and I call shenanigans)--but I think what its doing is arresting the process of natural degradation by the light and allowing the oil production to peak under non-degradative conditions.
Click to expand...
this I believe
 
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squiggly

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#104
midwestdensies said:
this I believe
Click to expand...

I don't deny it has an effect--what I said is I don't think it makes the plant sprout assloads of new trichomes, I think it fills up the existing trichomes a bit more with oils of different types. As terpenes are some of the more temperamental compounds here, I'd expect the flavor profiles to change after a dark period under this hypothesis.

So I'm not disagreeing with any of what you said by saying what I said there.
 
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caveman4.20

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#105
Becareful i hermed plants doing that also made some plants turn yellow something.like blight....
 
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caveman4.20

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#106
Ive never done side by side experiments with anything like lab work but what about trimming the plant the last week while its finishing in the ground....
 
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stickyfing3rs

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#107
First seeds i ever ordered were ghs white widow (bad luck with them btw). On their website they claimed that total darkness for the last 2 weeks of flowering made for top potency buds. Not my opinion just thought id chime in. Not that ghs is a credible source
 
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caveman4.20

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#108
Its amazing what might work for one situation and not another....
 
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ttystikk

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#109
caveman4.20 said:
Yo tystikk what up and thanks for your interest and input....what do you think of the potent chronic that isnt blingy do you think or know if there is an internal or subsrructure of the trichome that relates.to potency?
Has anyone else thought of this?
Click to expand...

Thank YOU for yours! Without everyone's input here, this would be a sad place. I'm just trying to contribute as much as I've gotten from this site, although I fear that's a losing battle, lol.

I've had and grown and seen plenty of very stony weed that didn't show off its frost. I'm not sure what's up with that. I don't claim to have any special insights, only the occasional 'aha!' moment when things click together. As far as I know, trichomes on all cannabis varieties work the same in terms of basic structure and biochmeistry. Where they begin to differ is in the details; short or tall trichs? Does the plant make FAT trichs, which show up as snow on the roof, or are they tiny, and thus lacking 'bling'? Of course we're all aware of the differences in the amounts and ratios of the boichemical products in the trichomes, at least in terms of how they affect us.

I guess my feeling on it is that the plant is gonna do what it wants- and it's my job to make it want to produce a shit-ton of resin. If the plant's characteristics aren't what I'm looking for, then I'll just try another strain. Meanwhile, all the work put into optimizing the growing environment pays dividends for every strain, and even fuckin' tomatoes if you want, right? :D
 
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ttystikk

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#110
caveman4.20 said:
Ive never done side by side experiments with anything like lab work but what about trimming the plant the last week while its finishing in the ground....
Click to expand...

DesertSquirrel is a very experienced contributor here, and he's been doing a careful cvourse of defoliation to enhance bud production for years now. It must work pretty well for him. I've read his discussions and I confess that until I've watched someone doing it, I don't think I could adequately describe his methods, nor could I replicate his results.

Personally, I do a bit of defoliation throughout the entire growing cycle; I top and train in veg, then defoliate lightly throughout bloom, taking special care to remove any leaves that have turned yellow or brown.
 
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caveman4.20

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#111
Whats the name of the thread?
 
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PurpleSticky

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#112
This thread got so much more interesting. Makes me rethink my entire grow room. I am definitely going to put some money into more environmental control. As of right now, my setup was purely an experiment that is proving to be more difficult to maintain than I ever though.

Interesting stuff. I did a little googling, and it seems like UV radiation varies during the day where the amount of UV is highest at solar noon. Looks like most places accept that 10 am to 4 pm is when the UV is at it's highest.

I think an okay starting point to determine amount of UV, to even get in the ballpark, would be to look into what people use for reptiles. Do remember, I have no education in any of this really., and I don't own any lizards...

Peak readings of 350 - 450uW/cm² are commonplace for two or three hours a day, around noon, in the summertime in these areas; however, even "sun-worshippers" avoid the midday sun.

I found this on a certain species of lizards that live from North Africa into the Middle East. I know a few strains originate from there, but I think this would be a higher limit for starting out.

Iguanas are kept at 75-150 uW/cm^2. Iguanas are from Mexico and Central America. This might be a better place to start, if not lower.

Since the lizards of the general region where marijuana has grown for a long time, I think the levels would be similar for marijuana. Or I could be wrong.
 
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caveman4.20

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#113
does standard black light have uva and b or just a ? do you know squiggly
 
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PurpleSticky

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#114
caveman4.20 said:
does standard black light have uva and b or just a ? do you know squiggly
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure blacklights don't have UVB. Black lights are mainly UVA.
 
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ttystikk

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#115
Lizards in desert climates need UV, which has to be replicated in their artificial environments. My strong suspicion is that marijuana that grows in the mountains- especially those near the equator, like 'kush' strains, and many landrace indicas, are going to have a stronger response to UVB than their lowland brethren, because of natural selection pressure.
UV of all types is stronger at higher altitudes. This is especially true of UVB, as it is absorbed by atmospheric moisture.
 
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Pancho-N-Lefty

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#116
Seems like more and more we r refining the ideas of lighting and having UVB at finish. within the next year i bet we have some more solid numbers I feel. LED CFL etc etc are seeming to make a great supplement to our normal MH and HPS routines. I cant wait to start adding in some of these to my regimen and find out for myself. I also have been reading about the fine lines of temperature/ environmental contro and Diff.
IE:" Negative Diff is defined by day temperature being cooler than night Temperature
Zero Diff (or minimum Diff) is defined as day temperatures being equal to night temperatures.Positive Diff is defined as day temperature being warmer than night temperature.

It is best to keep the 24 hour temperature (Zero Diff) in order to maximize the light energy produced and distributed. If, however, temperatures are excessively high, the plant wastes alot of energy transpiring and excessively moving water to keep itself cool, which produces a net loss energy for the yield.

With low temperatures and bright light, the plant is just not able to use all the light it is getting. so energy storage is low. This results is the loss of potential yield, because the plant is not bulking up for it's end of cycle. Raise the nightime temperature (neg Diff) which helps whatever energy has been captured to be sent to the roots for storage.


A plants yield is directly proportionate to it's dried root mass, not the size or weight of it's foliage.

The wise grower cares more about increasing root mass than about making a plant taller or bushier, because at the end of the cycle energy stored in roots can be transferred to the yield by manipulating temperature and diff." -Demosthenes

There is more to this topic but u get the idea.
I have a feelinng this in conjunction with the right mix and duration of types of light will be our key to fulfillment in the area of yield and potency. Not to say that fimming and defoliation and nutes/ bennies make a big difference as well. But I digress
Keep up the great work guys.

PnL
 
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caveman4.20

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#117
Nice post PNL whats supposed to happen with neg Diff thats when night temp is cooler right so my night temp is about 55 and day temp 75....
 
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caveman4.20

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#118
PurpleSticky said:
I'm pretty sure blacklights don't have UVB. Black lights are mainly UVA.
Click to expand...
Does the UVA help with oils?
 
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caveman4.20

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#119

MK-ULTRA

I have a feeling this beauty is going to be potent very potent based on the huge stresses she tolerates with ZERO signs of male experession....this plants roots were being baked every mid afternoon and Damn near freezing most nights, super windy , no greenhouse, high elevation very dry it's 40°rh right now buts it's the "rainy season" but mostly been about 20°rh .....I put her through droubt stress also and chased deficiency maybe even got hit a lil by grashopperz and who knows what else plus she was veggd in Gas Lantern Routine building up massive hormone.......I got a few more tricks up my sleeve but got about 5-6 weeks left maybe this is my first run
 
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caveman4.20

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#120
White Bubba

Northern Lights
 
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Replies 152
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Started Nov 13, 2012
Latest post Jan 18, 2017
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