yea thank u all for yur responsees im going to get some greencure today. but the leaves arent the problem now its the sugar leaves next to the buds that are getting it bad now! its almost useless to try and get rid of it if i have to open the window for the next grow but i am going to do a thorough clean

Has anyone ever heard of a product called Boun Tea? It is supposed to work for killing PM.

how long does it take for this stuff to start working?? i let it dry and i still se it on the leaves i mix about 1 1/2 tbs.. this is holdind me up because i need to flush them right now!

you should just get some spray on stuff, works as soon as you sparay um.

well i got greencure how long dies this stuff take to work i already had some spray on stuff but i heard this is suppose to work too

Well i got noticed a few spots of PM! fuck never had to battle pm before. I put a few extra fans in there its not bad yet but theres a few spots here and there.. I have neem and some other stuff so that will help kill the pm?

Well I got an hour till my lights go out and I gotta spray something now that I spotted the PM! I don't think its bad yet just a little here and there.

Anyone used Azamax to fight PM?? I need to get more i ran out, kills mites really well, didn't have any problems till i ran out.

These are the sprays I have now? anyone use these or have any input if they will be effective i might go look for a sulfur based spray at lowes tomorrow, if not go to the grow shop. Seems a sulfur based spray is the way to go. My flower plants that are showing it are 3 weeks in so i need to spray now!!!

Neem Concentrate says fights pm
Organocide (This stuff stinks but killed mites well also says treats pm)

I'd toss them in the dumpster.PM makes me ill,thats why I pick healthy strains and cross them,to make super pm proof ganj.Next time do a simple test,I like toss'n them out at night,to see what there made of.I like doing these tests in the winter,socal winter temps of course.

Ya my SDK doesn't have any its a beast nothing fucks with it, its just on the Querkles, mainly 1 of them. I went ahead and cut off all the leafs i saw that had pm then went with a spay of neem. We will see how she does. Hope it doesn't get any worse. I'll be hooking up a 8in can fan when it gets here just ordered it I only have a 6in canfan right now witch is way undersized gets kinda hot in here probably a little high humidity.. Gonna go pick up another fan tomorrow for another intake. Probably pick up 2 more osculating fans while i have the cash.

This seems somewhat helpful thought others might what to read it. I almost ordered a sulfur based thing but after reading this those are for preventing it. It says the horticultual oil's work best for eradicating powdery mildew. I used neem and wish I read this first and just used my horticulual oil cause it doesn't smell at all and isn't harmfull to the plant, even when I've overdone it.


http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7493.html


Fungicide Applications
In some situations, especially when growing roses, you may need to use fungicides, which function as protectants, eradicants, or both. A protectant fungicide prevents new infections from occurring, whereas an eradicant can kill an existing infection. Apply protectant fungicides to highly susceptible plants before the disease appears. Use eradicants at the earliest signs of the disease. Once mildew growth is extensive, controlling the situation with any fungicide becomes more difficult.

Fungicides. Several least-toxic fungicides are available, including horticultural oils, neem oil, jojoba oil, sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, and the biological fungicide Serenade. With the exception of the oils, these materials are primarily preventive, although potassium bicarbonate has some eradicant activity. Oils work best as eradicants but also have some protectant activity.

Oils. To eradicate mild to heavy powdery mildew infections, use a horticultural oil such as JMS Stylet Oil, Saf-T-Side Spray Oil, Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil, or one of the plant-based oils such as neem oil (e.g., Powdery Mildew Killer) or jojoba oil (e.g., E-rase). Be careful, however, never to apply an oil spray within 2 weeks of a sulfur spray, or it may injure plants. Also, you never should apply oils when temperatures are above 90°F or to water-stressed plants. Some plants may be more sensitive than others, and the interval required between sulfur and oil sprays may need to be even longer. Always consult the fungicide label for any special precautions. Of the horticultural oils, JMS Stylet Oil is the most highly refined and therefore the least likely to damage plants, but it may be more difficult to obtain than the others.

Sulfur. Sulfur products have been used to manage powdery mildew for centuries but are effective only when applied before the disease appears. The best sulfur products to use for powdery mildew control in gardens are wettable sulfurs that are specially formulated with surfactants similar to those in dishwashing detergent (e.g., Safer Garden Fungicide). However, you shouldn’t use dishwashing detergent with sulfur. Additionally, sulfur can damage some ornamental cultivars. To avoid injuring any plant, do not apply sulfur when the temperature is near or higher than 90°F, and do not apply it within 2 weeks of an oil spray. Other sulfur products, such as liquid lime sulfur or sulfur dust, are much more difficult to use, irritate skin and eyes, and are limited in the types plants you safely can use them on.

Bicarbonates. Also available to licensed applicators only is a fungicide containing potassium bicarbonate (e.g., Kaligreen). Sprays of potassium bicarbonate can injure the plant, so use these products with caution.

Biological Fungicides. Biological fungicides (e.g., Serenade) are commercially available beneficial microorganisms formulated into a product that, when sprayed on the plant, destroys fungal pathogens. The active ingredient in Serenade is a bacterium, Bacillus subtilis, that helps prevent the powdery mildew from infecting the plant. These products have some effect in killing the powdery mildew organism but are not as effective as the oils or sulfur in controlling it.

Synthetic Fungicides. Myclobutanil (Immunox) also is available to the home gardener and functions as an eradicant and protectant against both powdery mildew and rust.

How to Use. Apply protectant fungicides to susceptible plants before or in the earliest stages of disease development. Once mildew growth is mild to moderate, it generally is too late for effective control with protectant fungicides. These are effective only on contact, so applications must thoroughly cover all susceptible plant parts. As plants grow and produce new tissue, additional applications may be necessary at 7- to 10-day intervals as long as conditions favor disease growth.

If mild to moderate powdery mildew is present, you can use horticultural and plant-based oils such as neem or jojoba oil

Azamax/Azatrol are not for control of microbes like PM, so I don't see it working. Changing pH of the leaves (Greencure, etc) is one method. Sonata is a biofungicide, OxiDate oxidizes, oils... I'm not sure what oils do, but I've seen them knock it back and in once instance of PM at very low RH knocked it out.

Haven't done sulfur burning, but will likely invest in Eagle 20.

Well I must say after checking on the plants today I could only find 1 leaf I could see pm on, I made my spray a little to powerfull it made one plants leafs curl a little but other then that seems to have done alright. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thought I'd give everyone a little update. Today is day 2 I sprayed neem 2 nights ago at a little under 1oz. per gal. to treat this PM. I didn't have it horrible mostly on the fans here and there.. I sprayed the first night before lights off (sprayed extremely heavily, drenching the newly formed bud and leafs and undersides of leafs.) and cut off all the really infected parts of the plant. The next morning the plants looked wonderfull w/ one of the 3 querkles taking the spray a little to powerfull it made the leafs curl a little. I could only find one leaf yesterday with signs of PM. I'm gonna do 1 more spray and it looks like I caught it early. Also sprayed my veg plants and will make sure to give my plants a finial spray before going into flower w/ my horticultural oil. (doesn't smell like neem its 90% canola oil.)



Eagle 20 sounds like it would be everyones best bet. Eradicates and Protects. Active ingredient is Mycolbutanil.

Synthetic Fungicides. Myclobutanil (Immunox) also is available to the home gardener and functions as an eradicant and protectant against both powdery mildew and rust.

azamax is garbage i been using it this whole grow damn near and didnt kill them at all. sns 217 is the best thing for mites

good job getting it down. just make sure to continue to treat the veg with neem as a preventative.

theslums said:

azamax is garbage i been using it this whole grow damn near and didnt kill them at all. sns 217 is the best thing for mites

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This thread is about powdery mildew. LMAO! I want what you're smokin'!

Got home from FOUR count 'em four days away from home (during winter, with possibility of power outages, with a *large* batch of coco girls in flower? I swore I'd never do it). Got a wee bit of PM showing up again on the Mother of Thor. Orange Kush, Bubba Kush and Rhymes with Orange show no signs of PM. This shit straight up thrives in some girls, and doesn't stand a chance on others.

My Teddy cut of Chocolate Diesel hasn't batted an eyelash at the PM that's hit everyone else, not even once. It still puts on the lotion or it gets the hose.

It still puts on the lotion or it gets the hose.

:rofl

ive been a victim of PM for the last 2 grows, i think ive found something that works

http://www.ehow.com/way_5484361_milk-remedy-powdery-mildew.html

i used this and within 1 day the PM was gone, it says to do it every couple days and i havent seen any problems with any other fan leaves. the room does smell kinda funny but im only in week 2 of flower so im sure the ladies will mask the smell.

if you have powdery mildew sometimes its better to just scrap it and start fresh. just matters how much you want to battle with the devil.