Facinating discussion. Thank you for the reminder to be very careful and use protective gear - not one of my natural inclination.

By way of introduction: I used to grow back in the 70s here on the coast of the Bay Area. Started again last year and of course pm and other molds were issues in early October with the alternating rain/heat. Have my first inside scrog going now and will put a few in the ground in another few weeks. Early finishing Indicas this time.

A pleasure meeting all of you.

Silica

Came across growbook.com their recommendation for fighting pd systemically; silica as in Rhino Skin by AN, or Silica Blast. Neem Oil for external treatment.
I just flipped my scrog; 2 Trainwreck, 2 Dream Queen on one screen, 2 White Widow,a SSHaze and a OG Kush on the other.I had a little pm on the SSHaze and Trainwreck when they were young. Treated with sulpher, removed all the infected leaves. I'm holding my breath on this one but will pick up Rhino Skin. Should I have trashed them rather than try to cure and use? Any advice would be appreciated.

just something to note. I know folks that are using one drop of eagle 20 per gal. they do it once on clones then once before flip. absolutely no reccurrance of pm. they don't even cover the whole plants just quickly over the tops. 2-3ml per gal is probably excessive. you could also do something equivalent with immunox. please if you take this route be conservative and keep it safe.

cancerleo said:

Milk, the Lactobacsilius eat it.

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Worked for me, at 15% dilution w/water. Plants looked really healthy afterwards too, but the PM came back about 4-5 days later, a little sooner than it does w/greencure. Plus, dried old milk stinks.

Not systemic, but related.

ncga said:

Sonata and Stylet are good for 14 days. I apply 1oz per gallon and re apply every 7 days. It almost impossible to get 100% coverage so by weekly application of Sonota and Stylet I get great results. The weekly spray is also a good time to apply ACT or your regular foliar fert.

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Do you combine your weekly spray w/your foliar fert, or do you do one after another? Wait for one to dry? Which first (foliar fert I'd assume)?

I combine them. I do test to make sure they are comparable in a jar before using a new product. Oxidate only plays well with Salts like growmore .

nc

Einstein Oil

I found a little patch of PM on my Trainwreck. Drenched that screen with Neem Oil so far so good 1 week + later. Today found a few pm infected leaves on the second screen (Super Silver Haze). This time used Serenade on both screens. 1 week after flipping so that's it for the Serenade.
Will be looking for something compatible with budding if pm shows again. Stylet and Greencure? Seamaiden what dilution combination do you use?
Ncga, since I'm in flower at what point should I stop using Sonata and Stylet?

What i used was mildew cure used it about 4 times and the Pm was gone!

Greencure I use 1-2 tablespoons/gallon. Stylet is 1-2oz/gallon (1oz = 2 tablespoons). With PM I always use 2oz/gal of the Stylet. The closer you get to finishing, the more likely I personally would be to use OxiDate (I'm complaining about the soapy flavor the GC left on my buds). You can dip the entire plant in OxiDate and it won't leave a flavor or residue, if you were of a mind to do so. Good foliar should do it. Remember, it's not a systemic, it's a contact killer.

Wtf

Sprayed some of my outsiders ( Purple Kush and Bubba Kush) that had shown some signs of pm yesterday with Serenade. This morning there were a few new spots of pm. I suppose I might have missed the spots when I inspected before spraying. How long does it take Serenade to work?

jetcat said:

just something to note. I know folks that are using one drop of eagle 20 per gal. they do it once on clones then once before flip. absolutely no reccurrance of pm. they don't even cover the whole plants just quickly over the tops. 2-3ml per gal is probably excessive. you could also do something equivalent with immunox. please if you take this route be conservative and keep it safe.

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forget this idea.... the more research i do tells me to just stay away from this crap altogether!!!!!! Even George Cervantes says, "never use systemics". The fact is indoor plants don't breakdown chemicals nearly as fast. So it stays in the tissue even in clones that have grown out...

I am with Jetcat on this issue. I am very glad I can grow my own and not have to worry about what others folks THINK are safe.

E-20? no thanks. If I can't treat/cure my plants safely (according to my standards) I will just chop em' and burn em'.

It would be nice if growers told thier buyers what chemicals they doused on their grows but that will never happen now will it?

Just grow pm proof strains.Heres some that I grew,that are pm proof.bigbuddah cheese,afghani#1,greenhouse's superlemonhaze,lemonskunk,church,AMS,Nirvana seeds NL,Durban,sensiseeds mexican sativa,vanillakush.There probably alot more outhere.

You can rid plants of powdery mildew systematically, but not systemically.

The all-natural way is with old-fashioned baking powder, aka potassium bicarbonate. (Not sodium bicarbonate which is in modern baking powder)

Over the counter it is available from the "Monterey Gardens" brand, sold as "Bi-Carb Old Fashioned Fungicide". In larger quantities I highly recommend BioWorks Inc. - MilStop.

For those who are ok with a copper spray used by "certified organic" farmers, I recommend the Monterey Gardens brand "Liqui-Cop".

kolah said:

I am with Jetcat on this issue. I am very glad I can grow my own and not have to worry about what others folks THINK are safe.

E-20? no thanks. If I can't treat/cure my plants safely (according to my standards) I will just chop em' and burn em'.

It would be nice if growers told thier buyers what chemicals they doused on their grows but that will never happen now will it?

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exactly why i wont smoke anyone's herb but my own, all organic, no p.m., compost teas baby!

Organicyumyum said:

exactly why i wont smoke anyone's herb but my own, all organic, no p.m., compost teas baby!

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A big 10-4 and Roger That...Yeah some of the shit I see being used gives me the heebie-jeebies. Shit, might as well spray the flucken plants with mercury, like in the old days.

I have said this before and i will say it again, quantum = no pm!!
You can fuck around with all kinds of shit but 2 tsp/gal every two weeks and pm will be a distant memory. Sorry to be so direct but this comes up all to often and simply doesn't have to.

You can also use the potassium bicarbonate or copper ammonium product I mentioned a few posts ago as foliar 1 tsp / gallon ONE TIME.

putembk said:

I have said this before and i will say it again, quantum = no pm!!
You can fuck around with all kinds of shit but 2 tsp/gal every two weeks and pm will be a distant memory. Sorry to be so direct but this comes up all to often and simply doesn't have to.

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mateo said:

what is the best way to deal with powdery mildew in a systemic form?

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First you realize that if you are cloning that PM is a monster that can only be beat with proper treatments lasting months to save a particular rare strain.

Let's say you have a plant with PM, then you need to veg it while treating the soil with H2O2 3%, as it grows spray the entire plant with Zero Tolerance fungicide/pesticide diluted according to the label, treat soil as well.

This can be applied to all surfaces including cloning trays, etc.
Be sure to treat all fans, walls, floors, physical objects in the room with a light bleach water solution 1-2 cups per gallon, do not spray your plants with the bleach water solution and be sure to ventilate while doing so.

After some veg growth, take the topmost cuttings with the least amount of PM, clone those and then repeat the cloning process after veg growth has been established. Add 1-3 caps of H2O2 per gallon to all watering solutions.

You will notice that during the second stage that the PM inhabits the lowermost leaves and infects the new growth later. This progressive spread can be stopped through selective uppermost cloning repeats, which effectively removes the PM infection from the plant by out-growing it.

On the second or third cloning cycle the fresh growth will have some branches that are completely free of PM. Clone those shoots and repeat, after the third or forth cycle of this while applying zero tolerance to the entire plant and using H2O2 in the watering you will outpace the infection and effectively remove it during suppressive treatments.

Increase outside air pass-through in your grow room, allow for an exit vent down low in the room, this will help remove spores I call it a "particle vent", adjust your incoming air so that when it enters the room it causes the air in the room to spin around the room so that the larger spores are removed and get stuck to the walls or fall out the particle vent(s).

Use more MH than normal for a while, it has a strong UV signature and can help keep infections from re-occuring, install an Ozonator on the outlet vent allowing some UV to spill into the room for longer term prevention, just be sure to turn off the Ozonator before entering the room due to strong UV's which can damage your eyes and skin.

if you do these things you can save any strain, and keep your room free of mold and pests through preventative treatments. Spray your veggin plants once or twice a month with zero tolerance and on flowering plants cover the trunks with red cayanne pepper extract to prevent mites and molds.

If in flower: treat with zero tolerance, finish bloom cycle and then start with new seeds or cuttings and if infection occurs, follow above instructions.

Save the world with Cannabis
Peace.

kolah said:

A big 10-4 and Roger That...Yeah some of the shit I see being used gives me the heebie-jeebies. Shit, might as well spray the flucken plants with mercury, like in the old days.

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your a breath of fresh air brotha! its nice to find people who you can trade nugs with...