Right on Jetcat!

I got PM in my greenhouse. I caught in early and used a bicarb mix with good results. I hit them 3-4 times to keep it at bay until I harvested. I had to rinse them each time before reapplying. I also ran my daytime temps to 100-110 degrees for one hour as extreme temps (hot or cold) kills PM.

The interesting thing was that the PM effected my flowering 3 clones and never touched my other plants which were flowering as well. Those not effected were grown from seed. It is just an observation but it could be that seeded plants have a better immune system than cloned plants. I dunno. The 3 clones that contracted PM were not located next to each other either. In fact some of my seeded plant leaves were actually touching the clones that had the PM and never got it.

Well it's Thursday morning and just finished reading this entire thread (straight this time) and there sure are many different opinions on the types of treatments and consequences of using harsh chemicals. First off let me say that I have only about 25 to 30 harvests under my belt which makes me no where near a master grower. But I am a student of the game and everything I know I have stole from someone else. I am retired and have spent the last 2 years seeking out knowledgeable growers and the experience they have. Now with that said I had power mildew so bad it was in every plant and would even show up on my new clones. I have tried most every product mentioned in this thread and the one that works best for me is Quantum. Green Cure, milk, 9.0 water, Eagle 20 all work to some extent but it's an on going never ending battle. I hate foliar sprays in flower especially once the buds form. I have a hard time getting every inch of the plants once they fill out and therefore the shit is still there. Seamaiden, I just reread the label and Quantum is 100% natural and says nothing about being a systemic therefore I believe it is safe to use. I believe experience the best teacher and after loosing 2 harvests to this shit I have had no sign of or had no problems with PM. As stated earlier in this thread the spores get into everything, fans, lights everything. I did a couple of sulphur burns to kill them and then use nothing but Quantum. The thing is it's easy just 2 tsp/gal every two weeks in veg and flower and thats it. Oh, I stop about 3 weeks before harvest. If you are fighting this stuff and it's driving you crazy give Quantum a try and If it doesn't work the way I said, I will buy it from you. ha ha! It's 9:00 and the lights just came on so it's time to go to work. Later.

putembk said:

... I just reread the label and Quantum is 100% natural ...

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Part of the argument here could be that there are two different fungicide products labeled "Quantum". One of them requires a pesticide applicators license to purchase and apply, and the other (I assume what putembk has) is simply bacterial spores.

A hallmark of organic growers is a lack of (in tiny amounts) copper and zinc in their environment -- mainly because the nutrient sources they use don't contain them. If their environment is also conducive to mildew then they are in constant pitched battles with the organisms.

Mildew resides not only on plants but in all kinds of porous surfaces. Cleaning all your tools, pots, table surfaces, etc. each harvest cycle is good preventative practice. Professional wholesale plant growers do this routinely.

Finally, I will again recommend Monterey Gardens Liqui-Cop to those who are willing to give it a try. It is the over-the-counter choice for horticulturists.

Hermitian said:

Part of the argument here could be that there are two different fungicide products labeled "Quantum". One of them requires a pesticide applicators license to purchase and apply, and the other (I assume what putembk has) is simply bacterial spores.

A hallmark of organic growers is a lack of (in tiny amounts) copper and zinc in their environment -- mainly because the nutrient sources they use don't contain them. If their environment is also conducive to mildew then they are in constant pitched battles with the organisms.

Mildew resides not only on plants but in all kinds of porous surfaces. Cleaning all your tools, pots, table surfaces, etc. each harvest cycle is good preventative practice. Professional wholesale plant growers do this routinely.

Finally, I will again recommend Monterey Gardens Liqui-Cop to those who are willing to give it a try. It is the over-the-counter choice for horticulturists.

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I have heard that Quantum is not available in all areas, maybe thats why so little has been said about it. I get this over the counter at any grow store in Denver. Is sure seems as if there are several ways to control pm, I guess the moral to the story is "work smarter not harder". I don't even what pm looks like and the only time I think about I now is on threads like this.

putembk said:

I have heard that Quantum is not available in all areas, maybe thats why so little has been said about it. I get this over the counter at any grow store in Denver. Is sure seems as if there are several ways to control pm, I guess the moral to the story is "work smarter not harder". I don't even what pm looks like and the only time I think about I now is on threads like this.

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I agree. I think in Denver you have less mildew in the regional environment than we do here in San Diego, so the bacterial approach is a good choice. Professional "organic" wholesale growers here use those same spores in the winter time as a pre-conditioner prior to application of potassium bicarbonate.

Hermitian, I just tried to purchase JMS stylet oil via a retailer in California (PVFS) and on their site they say I can't without the pesticide license. Why do I need that for stylet oil?

What's the difference between their conventional and organic formulation? (I found I can buy it directly, thank goodness.)

Seamaiden said:

Hermitian, I just tried to purchase JMS stylet oil via a retailer in California (PVFS) and on their site they say I can't without the pesticide license. Why do I need that for stylet oil? What's the difference between their conventional and organic formulation? (I found I can buy it directly, thank goodness.)

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The "trouble" you had is one of the following, maybe both: (a) the product is not licensed for retail sale in California, (b) the size container you tried to purchase is too large for the state of California to trust consumers with. Of course, another possibility is that PVFS is in error, but unlikely.

I read both the product labels and MSDS sheets available from the manufacturer (http://www.stylet-oil.com/index.php?n=1&id=1). Both the conventional and the organic have the same concentrations and the same EPA numbers so in that sense they are equivalent. This infers that the difference is in "inert ingredients". Understand that "certified organic" is mainly focused on "effect to the local environment" and not origin of substances so perhaps they made some adjustment there. Of course, manufacturers have also been known to have both a conventional and "organic" label for the identical product just so they can jack up the price for gullible buyers. In this case, its hard to say without a chemical analysis of both.

I have pm and I believe that unless I set up a "clean" room I will get to enjoy all of the challenges of keeping it at bay. I used Clevis which is Eagle 20 and dithane. I used this super toxic product once and I will never consider using it again. Aside from the obvious handling dangers, the shit did not work. I think the reason may be the pm in my neighborhood actually likes Eagle 20. There are 9 golf courses within 15 miles of my house and they are on the cutting edge of ag chem stupidity. Resistant? Way past that. Using this stuff on some clones and having pm on them within 4 weeks was unsettling. I have been successful with compost tea. I have a worm composting bin. Every thc farmer should have one. Take some castings and pour some room temp non chlorine water and pour it through the dirt like you were making coffee. Spray that all over your grow room when you foliar spray. Let it drip on the floor. This bacterial soup will make a very unfriendly environment for pm outbreaks to occur. Important to keep in mind that just because a plant doesn't show the spots, It still may have pm. I think with the further use of e-20 it won't be long before the "resistant" strains become infected.

DJXXPLATINUM said:

absolutely...eagle 20..on ebay....dj

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is this available at hydro stores? it has only happened to me once on a few buds and i threw them buds out (PAINFULL -i have a hard time discarding any plants) but i would like to add some to the collection. peace

Taken from text of a lecture at a rose society meeting:


"Pseudomonas fluorescens is a soil-borne bacterium that a rose gardener can use as a systemic biocontrol agent and a biofertilizer. The bacterium secretes several compounds that have antibacterial and antifungal properties. When sprayed on the foliage, it secretes antibiotics that inhibit spore germination, pathogen growth and proliferation. The bacterium secretes an enzyme capable of dissolving cell walls of several fungal pathogens. Soil application of P. fluorescens controls pathogens that cause root rot as the bacteria form a shield over root surfaces to prevent pathogen penetration. Dusting the roots of roses with P. fluorescens will control root diseases of roses. P. fluorescens enters the vascular system of the plant to offer systemic control."


I included P. flourescens in my customized bio control benny formula. I have used E20 as a last resort last year. This, however looks so promising. It is one of the only systemic bio control agents. It has the ability to work throught he plants vascular system and not only boosts the plants immune system, but attacks harmful fungi and bacteria.