Pure Crop 1 (anyone tried this stuff)?

[Frankster]

LOL, just reading up on some stuff, really want to get a total kill on the mites, and willing to go to any extent to do so, short of shutting down, LOL.

Anyhow, I hit the outbreaks with some Isopropyl on the underleaves in the trouble spots, and I'll give everyone a wonderful shower in the morning again, probably do the bleach thingy in the room. I dusted the veggies with ground cinnamon and cloves with a fan. Cloves don't bother the taste IMO, enhances if anything.

So I spent my wad over at ebay ($150) and got myself a bunch of stuff, and among them was another 8,000 predators I picked up more A.cucumeris, N. californicus, P. persimilis. and A. swirskii. I've still got plenty of ladybugs.

Also, I picked up this pure crop 1 crap, it makes some bold claims, but we'll see.

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Colloidal solutions, this kind of crap is right up my alley, I love biochem and fooling around with molar masses and molecular polar properties, and screwing with surfactants. This is called "nano-supramolecular surfactants", as that makes perfect sense in relation to "capturing" debris and contaminates. I suspect I might even be able to create "my own" version. (I've probably already got all the ingredients needed) (a "suspended" oil connected to a polar molecule) after looking at it very closely, maybe I'll be doing some stuff with the microscope camera once this stuff arrives.


The key will be getting the ratio's right. I suspect viscosity has something to do with all this as well.

 

[Frankster]

The general rule is that "like dissolves like", which means polar molecules will dissolve into other polar liquids and nonpolar molecules will dissolve into nonpolar liquids. This is why oil and water don't mix: oil is nonpolar while water is polar.

It's helpful to know which compounds are intermediate between polar and nonpolar because you can use them as an intermediate to dissolve a chemical into one it wouldn't mix with otherwise. For example, if you want to mix an ionic compound or polar compound in an organic solvent, you may be able to dissolve it in ethanol (polar, but not by a lot). Then, you can dissolve the ethanol solution into an organic solvent, such as xylene.

Surfactants decrease surface tension between two fluids.


The cause for surface tension is the difference in the energetic state between a molecule at the surface compared to a molecule inside the liquid phase: the molecule inside has lower energetic state as it has more inermolecular interactions (or, to get to the surface, a molecule needs to break intermolecular bonds, which needs energy). This is more pronounced with higher polarity or when ions (charges) are around as the interactions are then stronger.

You can increase the polarity of a (polar) solvent to get higher surface tension, by dissolving salts.

 

[kaka]

Pure Crop 1 is NOT crap. It is the most legit spray I've used in over 20 years.

 

[Frankster]

Pure Crop 1 is NOT crap. It is the most legit spray I've used in over 20 years.

Good to hear kaka, that's the kind of response I was hoping for. Looks like this kind of stuff actually removes more contaminates than it adds. It subtracts to the sum of the whole, which is exactly what it's designed to do, by the sounds of it. I'm excited to get this stuff in and see how well it works.

aka, it will remove some of the "crap" and bugs/dust, and whatever else is in there, because it act's like a micro "sticky trap" that attracts and and saturates contaminates, while leaving the buds, leaves, stems squeaky clean, and probably leaving behind nothing but a thin coat of vanillin/lignin. ie. wood pulp waste (lignin) (phenols) and aromatic hydrocarbons. (-OH)

I'm real excited to try this product. It should be very good for the outer coating of any plant.
The more I look at it, the more it makes sense.

 

[kaka]

I love the stuff. It dries on the plant in 5 minutes. You can spray with lights on and not damage the plant. It has no real odor, which is especially nice in a home environment. It works as advertised. I put a lot of plants in peoples hands and I have to use something I can trust. PC1 is it.

 

[prowler9]

Do a whole plant dunk with that stuff and two days later spray/drench the plants, I killed all the mites and didn't get them back. But I also has meticides on newly put in flowering plants on the left side of the ones that got mites, purecrop1 is the shit

 

[SavageBuds420]

Check out Water Curing on YouTube

 

[Frankster]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, I feel like I'm really finally on track for this really big issue.

 

[TheWalkingPlant]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, I feel like I'm really finally on track for this really big issue.

Old thread, sorry. Did you make a workable diy solution? Or is their recipe legit
I’ve been using it for a while and have recently started using mixed with coco powder and kelp, and occasionally power si. I came to the farm today looking for if there are other mixes anyone is using with success? Trying to kill two birds with one spray as often as possible. Any thoughts here? Aminos will be the next try, I’m just still gun shy from burning the last time I used a fish product foliar.

Also worth mentioning that I have three plants with a new (ly noticed) root aphid problem. I hit with combo of full strength PC1 and dr Zymes. They didn’t do Shit. I must have created a super bug cause last time I nuked a medium with PC1 it saved the plant (barely) from RA attack. Still looking for solutions now. I should have sacked up and used bennies instead of the nuke, cause now I think I don’t have that option having used such a heavy dose of a anti fungi n shit. Sorry for the off topic tangent

tldr: shits dope, looking for foliar recipes. Use bennies before nukes

 

[Frankster]

Old thread, sorry. Did you make a workable diy solution? Or is their recipe legit
I’ve been using it for a while and have recently started using mixed with coco powder and kelp, and occasionally power si. I came to the farm today looking for if there are other mixes anyone is using with success? Trying to kill two birds with one spray as often as possible. Any thoughts here? Aminos will be the next try, I’m just still gun shy from burning the last time I used a fish product foliar.

Also worth mentioning that I have three plants with a new (ly noticed) root aphid problem. I hit with combo of full strength PC1 and dr Zymes. They didn’t do Shit. I must have created a super bug cause last time I nuked a medium with PC1 it saved the plant (barely) from RA attack. Still looking for solutions now. I should have sacked up and used bennies instead of the nuke, cause now I think I don’t have that option having used such a heavy dose of a anti fungi n shit. Sorry for the off topic tangent

tldr: shits dope, looking for foliar recipes. Use bennies before nukes

No doubt there recipe is legit. That said, I think my formulation is somewhat cleaner and overall more versatile. ie. I can specifically formulate it to tackle PM, or bugs, or general cleaning, or delivery of nutrients, hormones, ect. PC1 is certainly clean, but when I do a bare bones formulation it's far cleaner, w/zero scent or smell. Simple, pure cleaning action that fully penetrates into the buds right up to the trichome levels, without actually touching them, even cleans in between them, actually.

I actually did a treatment today with a little sugar, as I'm reaching wk 3 of flower; trace fractions of Trehalose, Dextrose, gamma-Aminobutyric acid, Vit B5 aka (3-[(2R)-2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanamido]propanoic acid) During todays run.

Last week I was pushing salicylic acids, fluvic acids w/glycerin and a tad of coco glucoside (foaming agent). Once in full bloom, keeping them on the anionic side of things is important. Plants love those negative ions in the fauna during flowering. Good things are bound to happen.

I guess what puts me off about the PC1 is specifically the citric acid. It can burn the plant in excess. Maybe good for killing bugs, especially on the walls, or floor, but I think salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, gamma aminobutyric acid, or fluvic acids are far more useful, beneficial way of doing the same thing. Will kill the bugs, but are mutually beneficial to the plant, and the biome. Just needs to be dialed in correctly first, pH balanced.

PC1 uses canola oil, corn oil w/glycerin. I use glycerin alone sometimes, but if I oil, I use coconut oil. I'm just big on coconuts on all sorts of levels. Coconut choir, coconut glucoside, coconut oil (I use the more expensive liquid kind) expeller pressed, then centrifuged to pull out all the long chains.. ie. the one on the right is best for this type of application. MCT oils generally contain 50–80% caprylic acid (Octanoic acid) and 20–50% caproic acid (hexanoic acid)

The primary use of caproic acid is in the manufacture of its esters for use as artificial flavors, and in the manufacture of hexyl derivatives, such as hexylphenols. caprylic acid is used as an algicide, bactericide, fungicide, and herbicide in nurseries, greenhouses, garden centers, and interiors. Caprylic acid is used commercially in the production of esters used in perfumery and also in the manufacture of dyes and as an antimicrobial pesticide used as a food contact surface sanitizer in commercial food handling.

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[Moshmen]

No doubt there recipe is legit. That said, I think my formulation is somewhat cleaner and overall more versatile. ie. I can specifically formulate it to tackle PM, or bugs, or general cleaning, or delivery of nutrients, hormones, ect. PC1 is certainly clean, but when I do a bare bones formulation it's far cleaner, w/zero scent or smell. Simple, pure cleaning action that fully penetrates into the buds right up to the trichome levels, without actually touching them, even cleans in between them, actually.

I actually did a treatment today with a little sugar, as I'm reaching wk 3 of flower; trace fractions of Trehalose, Dextrose, gamma-Aminobutyric acid, Vit B5 aka (3-[(2R)-2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanamido]propanoic acid) During todays run.

Last week I was pushing salicylic acids, fluvic acids w/glycerin and a tad of coco glucoside (foaming agent). Once in full bloom, keeping them on the anionic side of things is important. Plants love those negative ions in the fauna during flowering. Good things are bound to happen.

I guess what puts me off about the PC1 is specifically the citric acid. It can burn the plant in excess. Maybe good for killing bugs, especially on the walls, or floor, but I think salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, gamma aminobutyric acid, or fluvic acids are far more useful, beneficial way of doing the same thing. Will kill the bugs, but are mutually beneficial to the plant, and the biome. Just needs to be dialed in correctly first, pH balanced.

PC1 uses canola oil, corn oil w/glycerin. I use glycerin alone sometimes, but if I oil, I use coconut oil. I'm just big on coconuts on all sorts of levels. Coconut choir, coconut glucoside, coconut oil (I use the more expensive liquid kind) expeller pressed, then centrifuged to pull out all the long chains.. ie. the one on the right is best for this type of application. MCT oils generally contain 50–80% caprylic acid (Octanoic acid) and 20–50% caproic acid (hexanoic acid)

The primary use of caproic acid is in the manufacture of its esters for use as artificial flavors, and in the manufacture of hexyl derivatives, such as hexylphenols. caprylic acid is used as an algicide, bactericide, fungicide, and herbicide in nurseries, greenhouses, garden centers, and interiors. Caprylic acid is used commercially in the production of esters used in perfumery and also in the manufacture of dyes and as an antimicrobial pesticide used as a food contact surface sanitizer in commercial food handling.
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Whatever you call it frankster - (and I’m a pure crop 1 user) it’s fuckin deadly! No more mites! No more white flys! No more gnats!
Nice work!

 

[nashobaTHC]

I used PC1 on several large in-ground plants in mid flower to prevent PM and it definitely seems to be working without affecting trichomes or pistils. Was holding off using it on my potted strawberry glue to keep it as clean as possible but after finding two small caterpillars on it today and knowing it has another 3-4 weeks to finish, I’m gonna give her a good spray this evening. She just smells so damn good not to.

 

[TheWalkingPlant]

No doubt there recipe is legit. That said, I think my formulation is somewhat cleaner and overall more versatile. ie. I can specifically formulate it to tackle PM, or bugs, or general cleaning, or delivery of nutrients, hormones, ect. PC1 is certainly clean, but when I do a bare bones formulation it's far cleaner, w/zero scent or smell. Simple, pure cleaning action that fully penetrates into the buds right up to the trichome levels, without actually touching them, even cleans in between them, actually.

I actually did a treatment today with a little sugar, as I'm reaching wk 3 of flower; trace fractions of Trehalose, Dextrose, gamma-Aminobutyric acid, Vit B5 aka (3-[(2R)-2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanamido]propanoic acid) During todays run.

Last week I was pushing salicylic acids, fluvic acids w/glycerin and a tad of coco glucoside (foaming agent). Once in full bloom, keeping them on the anionic side of things is important. Plants love those negative ions in the fauna during flowering. Good things are bound to happen.

I guess what puts me off about the PC1 is specifically the citric acid. It can burn the plant in excess. Maybe good for killing bugs, especially on the walls, or floor, but I think salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, gamma aminobutyric acid, or fluvic acids are far more useful, beneficial way of doing the same thing. Will kill the bugs, but are mutually beneficial to the plant, and the biome. Just needs to be dialed in correctly first, pH balanced.

PC1 uses canola oil, corn oil w/glycerin. I use glycerin alone sometimes, but if I oil, I use coconut oil. I'm just big on coconuts on all sorts of levels. Coconut choir, coconut glucoside, coconut oil (I use the more expensive liquid kind) expeller pressed, then centrifuged to pull out all the long chains.. ie. the one on the right is best for this type of application. MCT oils generally contain 50–80% caprylic acid (Octanoic acid) and 20–50% caproic acid (hexanoic acid)

The primary use of caproic acid is in the manufacture of its esters for use as artificial flavors, and in the manufacture of hexyl derivatives, such as hexylphenols. caprylic acid is used as an algicide, bactericide, fungicide, and herbicide in nurseries, greenhouses, garden centers, and interiors. Caprylic acid is used commercially in the production of esters used in perfumery and also in the manufacture of dyes and as an antimicrobial pesticide used as a food contact surface sanitizer in commercial food handling.
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oh dope. Ya i can agree with you there. I love mct for myself, and I try to feed my personal plants like I feed myself. Haven’t actually tried using mct on plants tho so I’m going to have to do a little more reading now that you mention it. ya When I first started using it i under diluted and def pissed off my plants. I’m now just using the preventative dose which seems to work on mites, but not super well on the hemp aphids. Do you sell your concoctions? Or just for personal use? Do you find the differences worth the savings (I’m assuming it’s cheaper than buying PC1)? They just dropped the price at my local hydro shop so $27 for a liter is worth it for me.

 

[TheWalkingPlant]

I used PC1 on several large in-ground plants in mid flower to prevent PM and it definitely seems to be working without affecting trichomes or pistils. Was holding off using it on my potted strawberry glue to keep it as clean as possible but after finding two small caterpillars on it today and knowing it has another 3-4 weeks to finish, I’m gonna give her a good spray this evening. She just smells so damn good not to.


Was this plant sprayed right before the picture was taken? Also, are you saying that it works on caterpillars? Or just that you are spraying for caterpillars as well?

 

[mike1980]

So how do I make PC1 I'm kind of poor and is pretty much unavailable where I live

 

[Oldchucky]

Probably have to buy it. Don’t know if you can duplicate it at home. There’s a lot of stuff on YouTube for the home scientist. I like PC one. Easy on the plants. But I rarely use it. And it has a five year shelflife! Lol.

 

[mike1980]

Probably have to buy it. Don’t know if you can duplicate it at home. There’s a lot of stuff on YouTube for the home scientist. I like PC one. Easy on the plants. But I rarely use it. And it has a five year shelflife! Lol.

I love it but it's so expensive and hard to get lol

 

[Oldchucky]

You over in the UK? It’s 40 bucks for 16 ounces of concentrate here in the states. Do they jack you up over there? I think Amazon has it.

 

[Oldchucky]

Maybe you can use this also. From a couple of years ago.

 

[mike1980]

You over in the UK? It’s 40 bucks for 16 ounces of concentrate here in the states. Do they jack you up over there? I think Amazon has it.

Canada and we get over charged for everything. About $80 candain with tax for 16 oz if you can find it. For small indoor grow would be cheap but big plants outside it does get pricey. Cheers