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Rapid rooter and watering auto...

So I've popped my auto on the 9th the hydro shop said not to put any water at all into the tray.... I soon found out that's BS..... I have a pic for my 2 week spot... even though I had the watering problem seems to be moving past that alright... here's the pic
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What light do you have and how close is it? Looks light its way to close.
Fineest 1000w it's at the ceiling... but I just checked for my mid day check up and I have roots everywhere.... I'm looking to transfer into 5gal dwc running emerald harvest 3 part series along with there calmag, I have general hydro armor si, great white, dyna-zyme enzyme cleaner and of course ph up and down..... I'm thinking its time to transfer and just keep my propagation dome over it.... I just sat down to figure out which order I would put these in my nutrients buck... any tips on all this?
 
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Friend, autos are time oriented you are at 14 days, your very far behind, been running autos for 9 years there fussy, bitchy, easy to burn plants that you do not run like photos, if i were you i would raise my light it looks like your getting a little light burn, you want your leaves pointing to the light not shying away from it, i run 600w led and for seedlings that small i keep my light 28inc from seedling, when it gets bigger i lower my light to 24inc that seems to be my sweet spot, pic is crystal candy auto by sweet seeds at day 22, leaves are dropping beacuse it is about to go to bed they droop so they can strech during darkness , plant at 22 days is female and just hitting her spurt, if you need info or help no prob just ask.
 
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Fineest 1000w it's at the ceiling... but I just checked for my mid day check up and I have roots everywhere.... I'm looking to transfer into 5gal dwc running emerald harvest 3 part series along with there calmag, I have general hydro armor si, great white, dyna-zyme enzyme cleaner and of course ph up and down..... I'm thinking its time to transfer and just keep my propagation dome over it.... I just sat down to figure out which order I would put these in my nutrients buck... any tips on all this?
Silica first mix well then add nutrients then ph down. Then you can add the rest.

Wait until you see roots before transplant. You want about 70-80% RH for the next week. After you can drop it to 60-65% depending on temps.

Don't use a dome with seeds if you don't have to.

Then put 1-2" of hydroton on the bottom of the net pot and place the jiffy on top then fill the rest.air stone right below the net pot in the center and water level 1" below the net pot so that the bubbles breaking the surface just splash the bottom of the net pot.

Top feed from the res about 1cup every day or 2 until the roots hit the water.

Your ppm should be 200-300 after they go in which usually about 10-14 days from when first cloned or planted.

I could go on and on but I'll stop there if you have any questions just ask.
 
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Friend, autos are time oriented you are at 14 days, your very far behind, been running autos for 9 years there fussy, bitchy, easy to burn plants that you do not run like photos, if i were you i would raise my light it looks like your getting a little light burn, you want your leaves pointing to the light not shying away from it, i run 600w led and for seedlings that small i keep my light 28inc from seedling, when it gets bigger i lower my light to 24inc that seems to be my sweet spot, pic is crystal candy auto by sweet seeds at day 22, leaves are dropping beacuse it is about to go to bed they droop so they can strech during darkness , plant at 22 days is female and just hitting her spurt, if you need info or help no prob just ask.
Looks like light burn to me too.
 
Friend, autos are time oriented you are at 14 days, your very far behind, been running autos for 9 years there fussy, bitchy, easy to burn plants that you do not run like photos, if i were you i would raise my light it looks like your getting a little light burn, you want your leaves pointing to the light not shying away from it, i run 600w led and for seedlings that small i keep my light 28inc from seedling, when it gets bigger i lower my light to 24inc that seems to be my sweet spot, pic is crystal candy auto by sweet seeds at day 22, leaves are dropping beacuse it is about to go to bed they droop so they can strech during darkness , plant at 22 days is female and just hitting her spurt, if you need info or help no prob just ask.
That's a beautiful start there I wanted to launch this one and test my whole tent and lights and all... I'm going to order seeds soon.... but im going to keep working with what I got for now
 
Silica first mix well then add nutrients then ph down. Then you can add the rest.

Wait until you see roots before transplant. You want about 70-80% RH for the next week. After you can drop it to 60-65% depending on temps.

Don't use a dome with seeds if you don't have to.

Then put 1-2" of hydroton on the bottom of the net pot and place the jiffy on top then fill the rest.air stone right below the net pot in the center and water level 1" below the net pot so that the bubbles breaking the surface just splash the bottom of the net pot.

Top feed from the res about 1cup every day or 2 until the roots hit the water.

Your ppm should be 200-300 after they go in which usually about 10-14 days from when first cloned or planted.

I could go on and on but I'll stop there if you have any questions just ask.
I have roots popping out everywhere on it and about 2 inches under
 
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Frind, at 14 days you are way behind, been running just autoflowers for 9 years, if i were you i would raise your light, it looks like your seedling has a bit of light burn, i hope you are not feeding to small, remember you want your leaves pointing up to your light not shying from it, for seedlings that small with a 600w led i keep my light 28inc from plant as it gets bigger i lower my light to 24inc this seems to be my sweet spot, autos are fussy, bitchy, and easy to burn, pic is crystal candy by sweet at day 22, a girl, the leaves look droopy beacuse its about to go to bed they droop so they can strech out during there period of darkness, you do not run them like photos, if you need help or advice just ask thats what were here for.
 
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Im not telling you what to do, but transplanting an autoflower is a no no, they have very weak root systems and transplanting can shock an auto, you germanate your bean and put it directly into the pots you intend to do your whole grow in, as stated at the best of times autos are fussy, by transplanting your plants can get shocked and dwarf out, or they just might refuse to flower, i have seen it all, i just had a huge green poison plant that refused to flower for no good reason, plant was in great health, ph fine, i cut the light cycle to 12/12 for a week in hopes of jumpstaring the plant, nothing, then i put it in darkness for 3 days by this time the plant was 40 days old, to old to flower, thats what i ment when i said there fussy and bitchy, just paid $65 for 3 beans ive been growing 40 years first 2 beans would simply not germanate, the 3rd bean germanated in 24 hours and poped in 48 just like there supposed to, and this was methisto a really great breeder, toof decay was born today, 2 seeds bad 1 good and for no reason, autoflowers cost much more than photos and in my humble opinion autos are harder to grow than photos, beacuse there fussy little bitches.
 
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Im not telling you what to do, but transplanting an autoflower is a no no, they have very weak root systems and transplanting can shock an auto, you germanate your bean and put it directly into the pots you intend to do your whole grow in, as stated at the best of times autos are fussy, by transplanting your plants can get shocked and dwarf out, or they just might refuse to flower, i have seen it all, i just had a huge green poison plant that refused to flower for no good reason, plant was in great health, ph fine, i cut the light cycle to 12/12 for a week in hopes of jumpstaring the plant, nothing, then i put it in darkness for 3 days by this time the plant was 40 days old, to old to flower, thats what i ment when i said there fussy and bitchy, just paid $65 for 3 beans ive been growing 40 years first 2 beans would simply not germanate, the 3rd bean germanated in 24 hours and poped in 48 just like there supposed to, and this was methisto a really great breeder, toof decay was born today, 2 seeds bad 1 good and for no reason, autoflowers cost much more than photos and in my humble opinion autos are harder to grow than photos, beacuse there fussy little bitches.
He is in hydroponics. He has to transplant, you can't start bean in DWC.
 
Alright guys I had roots out the bottom of that rapid rooter about 3 inches got my res together with everything listed above starting ph 5.5 after all silica and nutes everything listed above mine is the bloom... end nutrient ph 5.75 ppm 232.... 85 degrees f inside tent I do have a RH problem its staying between 35% to 45%..... I have a full 6" ventilation system on it's way sometime this next week...... have two pics of it for you guys with much thanks for everything so far I have a composition for a journal and wrote everything down being that it's an auto I went with 25% nutrients for starters..... again RH and anything else here please let me know I don't take it for granted when I get help is why I am writing all these tips down.....
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Just a quick comment on rapid rooters. Used to use them religiously in a very high humidity enviro. Had almost 100% success. Moved to a place that is dry with low Humidity. Killed my first 2 domes of clones. Went to rockwool rooters after that. If you are dealing with a low humidity enviro might want to try a different rooter.
 
Just a quick comment on rapid rooters. Used to use them religiously in a very high humidity enviro. Had almost 100% success. Moved to a place that is dry with low Humidity. Killed my first 2 domes of clones. Went to rockwool rooters after that. If you are dealing with a low humidity enviro might want to try a different rooter.
Went with rapid rooter due to reading that rockwool causes high ph
 
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Went with rapid rooter due to reading that rockwool causes high ph
can't comment on that with DWC buckets. Rooters arent an issue in a setup like that. 4in+ cubes can be and rot the bases of the stems from wicking water. Rockwool is like coco and likes to naturally be around 6. Ive used rockwool rooters in everything from hydoton to soil.
 
can't comment on that with DWC buckets. Rooters arent an issue in a setup like that. 4in+ cubes can be and rot the bases of the stems from wicking water. Rockwool is like coco and likes to naturally be around 6. Ive used rockwool rooters in everything from hydoton to soil.
Run what I have for now and maybe next round i. Run o
can't comment on that with DWC buckets. Rooters arent an issue in a setup like that. 4in+ cubes can be and rot the bases of the stems from wicking water. Rockwool is like coco and likes to naturally be around 6. Ive used rockwool rooters in everything from hydoton to soil.
Maybe next round I'll run 2 of the same one in rr and one in rockwool
 
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Run what I have for now and maybe next round i. Run o

Maybe next round I'll run 2 of the same one in rr and one in rockwool
By no means am I advocating you to switch. If they work keep using them. I just had a bad experience using them forever in the Texas climate with awesome success then moving to the mountains in CO and having horrible experiences from change in my enviro and what I had grown accustomed to. Just wanted to give you a little tidbit on that if you are in a similar enviro.
 
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Oh sorry i keep seeing what i thought was dirt, never grew an auto that way, all i can say is whatever the direction says cut it to a 1/4 i mean ure ppm in your solution, or you auto may burn, the number 1 problem with autos is nute burn so you need to understand that these things do not like allot of nutrients if growing hydroponicley you are going to need a very mild solution, during veg i hardly feed at all they just dont like allot of nutrients, witch is one of the perks of running autoflowers, i mean i use so little nutrients they last forever, ill give a quick rundown on the pros and cons of autoflowers, pro, use hardly any nutrients,, if things go right you can realy go from seed to weed in around 70 days, autos tend to smell less or if you do get a stinker it wont smell nearly as long, autos are great for stealth grows, the weed is just as good as photos, now for the cons, they are notoriously easy to burn, sometimes they grow great then refuse to flower, the seed companies lie about the yield witch is allways much smaller than stated, autoflower seeds are much more expensive than photo seeds, sometimes they pop and just stop for no good reason, sometimes those $10 to $20 beans will not germanate, again for no good reason. they are tricky, touchy, bitchy plants that you simply do not run the same as autos. but for all that i have come to respect them for what they are, i mean when they run right its awsome to see a plant grow a new set of leaves a day when there in there spurt. Ill post a couple pics of my favorite strains, purple kush, grapefruit, cotton candy.
 

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