Is that what this looks like to you? Everything keeps pointing in that direction but would really appreciate some other peoples opinions with experience as this is my first grow. I've read that its more common in Hydro with R.O water which is what i use. Think i should switch to tap?i dont know how people get calmag def so easy :( ive never had it and there was a time i didnt know what i was doing putting nutes in the lid at a random ratio lol
Lights are so “subjective “ lol I tried a lux meter no-go for me as I had my lights all over the place. Finally stepped up and bought a par meter now I know what the hell is going on it helped me be a better indoor grower.I have not, i do not have a PAR meter but im thinking i may need one now lol. sounds like i should def up the humidity also? I'm at average 50% right now. Roots are in the water well. Any reccomendation of if i should cut these damaged leaves off or not? I'm at the 5th node and would crop but i dont want to push the plant
I'll check out your grow forsure! That makes sense, i'll look into some PAR meters. Do you remember the one you purchased was called?Lights are so “subjective “ lol I tried a lux meter no-go for me as I had my lights all over the place. Finally stepped up and bought a par meter now I know what the hell is going on it helped me be a better indoor grower.
My last batch with organic was top-shelf (sour diesel autos) but to be able to tweak my lights to help the product was invaluable
The prices have dropped considerably over the years mine bout $165 Amazon
im lucky on the PH side of life, my tap water from my well is 6.5 to 6.85 and that’s the way I’m running with no issues, so far.
BTW, I’m doing Green Crack photos presently…
much appreciated!This is what I bought. Not to say the best or cheapest but it works nice and come in a cool protective zippered case.
‘I’ve been running my tent warm and wet, but changing next week to flower so just added a bigger blower/filter assembly to help reduce the humidity inside. Just tested it now 85F 60H and still have to drop down to 55H to prevent mold n bug issues
Whenever Plants are stressed "always back off on light pressure", yes cal/mag deficiencies can cause rust spots and leaf deformation. At her size I am normally 400-450 ppms (you are in early veg), she could just be over fertilized, next time you buy cal/mag buy Botanicaire C/M Plus Iron, it works better in DWC, can also be used as foliar spray. (get that cal/mag/iron right to the leaves/plant immediately) . Genetics are important whose the Breeder? if using herbies branded, $2.00 bulk/cheap seeds or F1's your on your own, always use good genetics. You should have a 1"inch air space between the basket and surface of the water. New growth although mutated is a good color. Maintain Temps 78-80 F over the next few days if new growth is starting to look burnt you'll need to water change.thanks for the reply! I'm stressing lol i've read a lot of about cal deficiency, do you think this fits that profile?
so the PH is 5.8, i usually just measure in ppm which is currently 600ppm. I just did a reading for the EC and the level is 1340 us/cm.
The blue dream plant next to it is having 0 problems so far, the gorilla glue took off and i just noticed the brown a few days ago and its been growing more each day. almost looks dry where the brown is.
The light i am using is Vivosun Aerolight SE 200W LED. Full spectrum, FR Enhanced. am following the manufacturers guide on what height gives which PPFD and am adjusting accordingly. I currently just lowered it a few days ago when it started the veg stage to get approx. 600 PPFD. Light is 3000k warm white, 5000k cool white, 660 nm Red and 730nm far-red.
Ok I’m at 600ppm right now still, should I leave it be or dilute it a little to drop it? I moved the light up back to 24” when I had no issues and backed the intensity off a hair to see what happens.Whenever Plants are stressed "always back off on light pressure", yes cal/mag deficiencies can cause rust spots and leaf deformation. At her size I am normally 400-450 ppms (you are in early veg), she could just be over fertilized, next time you buy cal/mag buy Botanicaire C/M Plus Iron, it works better in DWC. Genetics are important whose the Breeder? if using herbies branded, $2.00 bulk/cheap seeds or F1's your on your own, always use good genetics. You should have a 1"inch air space between the basket and surface of the water. New growth although mutated is a good color. Maintain Temps 78-80 F over the next few days if new growth is starting to look burnt you'll need to water change.
You can remove the lower (burnt) leaves - plants in dwc have a faster recovery rate than plants grown in any other media, if your "solution is correct". - what ever happened to the burnt leaves happened over a week ago...Dont do anything else till she is healthy, like I said maintain temps, wait 3-4 days, to see if new growth stays healthy...then you can reevaluate, if you need to top up water used plain pH'd water. As far as Topping(you said crop? I think you meant top) you could grow her to the 6th and top her back to the 4th, its unimportant right now. (that top leaf has no center branch tip, she's a mutant, you will have no choice but to top her, its why I wanted the breeder info) wait 3-4 days. lol - good luck M8Ok I’m at 600ppm right now still, should I leave it be or dilute it a little to drop it? I moved the light up back to 24” when I had no issues and backed the intensity off a hair to see what happens.
I will look into that mix forsure, I appreciate it. Also I bought my seeds from a reputable seed bank I believe it was $55 for 4 seeds which is standard? It was from seed supreme.
The new growth is coming in super green and strong/fast still. I read CALMAG problems can cause slow growth and weak stems but I’m not seeing that just yet.
Two questions if you don’t mind.
- should I cut the leaves with more than 50% brown? Some have gotten a little worse on the bottom but not top today I will attach pics.
- I wanted to crop at the 5th node which she is almost at, should I wait and just do it at a later node when she’s healthy so I don’t stress her to much?
Thanks for the help I will follow your suggestions!
Good roots so far!Ok I’m at 600ppm right now still, should I leave it be or dilute it a little to drop it? I moved the light up back to 24” when I had no issues and backed the intensity off a hair to see what happens.
I will look into that mix forsure, I appreciate it. Also I bought my seeds from a reputable seed bank I believe it was $55 for 4 seeds which is standard? It was from seed supreme.
The new growth is coming in super green and strong/fast still. I read CALMAG problems can cause slow growth and weak stems but I’m not seeing that just yet.
Two questions if you don’t mind.
- should I cut the leaves with more than 50% brown? Some have gotten a little worse on the bottom but not top today I will attach pics.
- I wanted to crop at the 5th node which she is almost at, should I wait and just do it at a later node when she’s healthy so I don’t stress her to much?
Thanks for the help I will follow your suggestions!
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Thanks again mate! So the growth is still super strong but the new top leaves are starting to show the same signs. Small dots but that’s how the others started.You can remove the lower (burnt) leaves - plants in dwc have a faster recovery rate than plants grown in any other media, if your "solution is correct". - what ever happened to the burnt leaves happened over a week ago...Dont do anything else till she is healthy, like I said maintain temps, wait 3-4 days, to see if new growth stays healthy...then you can reevaluate, if you need to top up water used plain pH'd water. As far as Topping(you said crop? I think you meant top) you could grow her to the 6th and top her back to the 4th, its unimportant right now. (that top leaf has no center branch tip, she's a mutant, you will have no choice but to top her, its why I wanted the breeder info) wait 3-4 days. lol - good luck M8
Mix a new 4 gal batch, base A/B nutrients only, 10-15% weaker than your last mix, cal/mag whatever your bottle says, and cut your HydroGuard in half too(your running a chiller, so It wont hurt to cut it to 1/2 dose) Basically Your Base that you add each week for survival but slightly weaker on the A/B. Dont add any other Products. You'll again have to give her a few days. (send a pic if you can). Im still looking at that mutant top leaf in the photo, she has no branch tip, Its like her mainstem has ended? I would top her just below that leaf, so she starts growing again - I think you have a mutant!Thanks again mate! So the growth is still super strong but the new top leaves are starting to show the same signs. Small dots but that’s how the others started.
Should I flush with just ph balanced water for 24 hours before adding nutes or add nutes as I do a new water change this evening?
Is that a good thing or bad?! Lol I’ll post some pics below I just took.Mix a new 4 gal batch, base A/B nutrients only, 10-15% weaker than your last mix, cal/mag whatever your bottle says, and cut your HydroGuard in half too(your running a chiller, so It wont hurt to cut it to 1/2 dose) Basically Your Base that you add each week for survival but slightly weaker on the A/B. Dont add any other Products. You'll again have to give her a few days. (send a pic if you can). Im still looking at that mutant top leaf in the photo, she has no branch tip, Its like her mainstem has ended? I would top her just below that leaf, so she starts growing again - I think you have a mutant!
seeing the side view of that plant, she is definitely a mutant - If your other plants are fine on the same rez, I dont know if Id be changing things up for the 1 mutant...Id still top her to see if she'll branch into two and become symmetrical - No. Usually mutants are not good, I pluck them right away, but I have thousands of seeds / several varieties of deep freeze pollen. Start another seed, you know you can start them in coco, grow them to the 3rd node in a solo cup, pull them out of the cup, dip the root ball in a 1 gal (pH'd clean water) wash the roots clean of coco, then drop them right into your hydroton/basket, then water them thru the top/pebbles to get the roots to wash down to the splash - cull the mutant ! (the blue dream is how they're supposed to look - lol) good luck friend -Is that a good thing or bad?! Lol I’ll post some pics below I just took.
I added new distilled water, going to add the nutes back as you suggested and check the ph after they settle and hopefully things get back to running smooth!
Still have a few spots on some leaves but I’m hoping it’s just from what damage has been done already and she’ll recover. I have a Blue Dream plant, same age, same seed bank and she’s looking good no burns I’ll post those pics below also.
Thanks for all your help this far!
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BLUE DREAM PLANT SAME RES
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Thanks man! I topped it back and now we’ll wait and see if she grows back right lol do you think mutants experience more issues in your opinion? The blue dream is thriving, I did wind up changing the res since I didn’t see your last comment until after but everything level wise is perfect.seeing the side view of that plant, she is definitely a mutant - If your other plants are fine on the same rez, I dont know if Id be changing things up for the 1 mutant...Id still top her to see if she'll branch into two and become symmetrical - No. Usually mutants are not good, I pluck them right away, but I have thousands of seeds / several varieties of deep freeze pollen. Start another seed, you know you can start them in coco, grow them to the 3rd node in a solo cup, pull them out of the cup, dip the root ball in a 1 gal (pH'd clean water) wash the roots clean of coco, then drop them right into your hydroton/basket, then water them thru the top/pebbles to get the roots to wash down to the splash - cull the mutant ! (the blue dream is how they're supposed to look - lol) good luck friend -